• Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump System 3
Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Ref Price:
$500.00 - 5,000.00 / set get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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1. Description

Single stage in-line centrifugal pump with standard motor and mechanicak seal.

Designed to be pulled out from the top when disassemble, it can be repaired without affecting the pipelines.

Less accessible to the impurity in the liquid.


2. Application

The liquid shall be clean, thin, non-corrosive, non-flammable, and non-explosive, without any solid grain and fiber that maigh be damage the pump mechanically or chemically.


3. Technical Data

Capacity: 4~1200m3/h

Head: 20~107m

Liquid Temperature: -15~110℃

Max. Working Pressure: normal type PN12 bar, special type PN16 bar


4. Pump Structure & Material

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

5. FAQ

1       Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2       Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3       Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

4       Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.



Q: QDX is a submersible pump. What does "X" mean?
QDX is a submersible pump model, its specific meaning is:1.Q: submersible pump.2.D: single-phase power supply, three-phase electricity is not marked.3.X: pump, pump type is not marked.Complete submersible pump model will generally add rated flow, rated lift and motor power rating. For example: QDX40-8-1.5, meaning with single-phase 1.5KW motor, rated flow of 40 cubic meters / time, the rated lift of 8 meters under the pump submersible pump.According to the different relative position of pump and motor, submersible pump is divided into pump type and pump type. The pump submersible pump motor in the above, below, this structure greatly reduces the radial size of the pump, so much for submersible pump and small submersible pump operation. Submersible pump submersible pump on top of the pump in the following, it is divided into two types of internal and external type. The submersible pump carries the liquid through the annular flow passage around the motor, then cools the motor and then flows out of the pump outlet. Even though the pump is near the drain sump, there is no need to worry about the temperature rise of the motor, so the application is becoming wider and wider. External pump submersible pump directly from the pressurized water chamber after the impeller or diffuser outlet of discharged liquid, motor is cooled by liquid pumping. As the lower pump structure can work in a relatively shallow liquid, it is often used in submersible pumps for operating surfaces, especially the main structure of large caliber submersible pumps.
Q: We just replaced the motor on our water pump that burnt out but we are still getting no water pressure. My father in law did a lot of test stuff on it he thinks it's the foot valve. Well I've been trying to call every where get quotes but NOT 1 of the places I called is answering their phone for some reason. So how much dose it usually run to have someone come fix your foot valve so I have an idea to tell my husband?
A very good foot valve will cost about $20 then it will be the cost of a service call, here we charge about $70 but depending on where you live, how deep the valve is and where its located the price maybe different, and the cost maybe more on a weekend too. Giving quotes for this is not really profitable for service companies, so if you are not prepared to do it yourself then you will have to pay the service call rate. A good reputable company will arrive at your home and give you an approximation on what it will cost, but remember once you call them there you will probably have to pay the service call rate, if you are running tight on money call around and ask the rates but remember that this is a weekend and most companies will be running a small crew and might take time to answer your call. The other option is since you have changed the pump yourself why not just change the foot valve your self? Have you primed the pump after replacement? To replace the valve the pipe that runs to the bottom of your well must be pulled up and the valve is on the bottom of it, its a simple matter of removing the old one and replacing with new the big job is usally the pulling up of the pipe.
Q: Looking for a pro's advice here. My Corolla has developed a strange noise over the past few cold weeks (Highs of 10 degrees max, well below zero at night). The sound would best be described as a cricket-type rythmic chirp noticable during acceleration. I don't believe it's a belt because it comes and goes though it has steadily gotten louder. I vaguely remember this sound being related to a bad water pump I had a few years ago. Do you think this could be the same thing? Three years for a water pump? And do water pumps tend to go out more frequently in the cold weather? Thanks!!!
First, you need to remove alternator belt and see if the noise disappear. then remove the AC (compressor belt) and notice if the noise disappear last , remove the power steering belt and see if the noise disappear IF NONE OF THESE STEPS HELP TO DETERMINE THE NOISE THEN YOU MAY HAVE TENSIONER TIMING BELT OR IDLER TIMING BELT OR WATER PUMP IS MAKING NOISE.
Q: Ok, so I have a 1997 3.8 liter ford mustang. I was driving home from work the other day, when temp gauge started to go up. I brought it to mechanic, and he said it was a bad water pump, due to bad antifreeze. So I am getting a new pump, and an antifreeze flush. My question is that since it overheated, will there be any damage to the engine? The temperature gauge never hit the red, and smoke never came out. I had to drive it for approx 15-20 miles when it started to overheat, and the temp gauge was bouncing from hot to normal.
All kidding aside, the 3.8 Ford engine was discontinued for a mountain of reasons. When the temperature indicator went into the red zone, you should have shut the motor off and parked the car just like it tells you to do in the glove compartment manual. Lets have a little primer on tour temperature gauge and why the needle was bouncing around: The electrical temperature sensor in one of the cylinder heads is a contact sensor. This means unless it has to touch the coolant all the time it will not send the heat information to the gauge reader on the dash accurately. When the electrical sensor in the cylinder head HAS NO COOLANT TO TOUCH, the dash gauge reads ZERO. In other words the hottest part of the engine was not being cooled all the time. Never drive anything anywhere unless the radiator is filled to the top when the engine is stone cold and the plastic coolant recovery reservoir is at least 3/4 filled when the motor is stone cold.. If the cooling system is leaking as fast as you fill it, TOW the car do not DRIVE IT. Cross your fingers and hope that the valve seats didn't fall out of the cylinder heads.
Q: does water pump sealers work?
If your talking about the water pump for a car it doesn't have any pumps those would be the radiator pumps that are connected to the water pump and transmission which keeps the radiator and transmission at a temperature that keeps the vehicle from over heating. If you have a overheating car and a mechanic told you your water pump has a leak then sorry you would have to replace the water pump but just don't go to a popular mechanic for that because it can get really expensive do your research and find you someone with a garage it cheaper because the part itself is not that expensive it putting it in that cost lol. Hope this helps.
Q: Is the pump lift horizontal or vertical?
The vertical height from the center line of the pump impeller to the surface of the water source
Q: where t is in minutes since the pump is started. If the holding tank contains 1000 liters of water when the pump is started, how much water does it hold one hour later?
Water is pumped out of a holding tank at a rate of 4-4e^(-.14t) liters/minute. Lets call that function w(t). So if we integrate w(t) over a time period that will give us the total water removed over that time period. So lets integrate it from t=0 (time when pump started) to t=60 (one hour later): ∫ w(t) from t=0 to t=60 ∫ w(t)=∫ 4-4e^(-.14t)=4t+(4/.14)e^(-.14t) evaluated from 0 to 60 ∫ w(t)=4(60)+(4/.14)e^(-.14*60)-4(0)-(4/.1... ∫ w(t)=211.435 liters removed If the holding tank began at 1000 liters and 211.435 were removed... Remaining water=1000-211.435 ***Remaining water=788.565 liters***
Q: I'm going to be purchasing a laboratory distillation kit here pretty soon, the kit includes everything I need for the setup but the condenser requires a water pump to circulate cold water around the coils. What kind of pump would you recommend for this purpose?
A small centrifugal pump that has the flowrate designated by the condenser manufacturer. I assume it has a heat exchanger of some type to reject the heat to the air and that would need a designate flow. Anyway, look in any lab supply catalog or web site and they will have many small pumps. You do not need to carefully control the flowrate, so stay away from metering or peristaltic pumps. The pumps may even be made of plastic, that is fine for this application. In my lab, we would just run the water from the tap through the glass condenser and let it drain out to waste. It is wasteful of water, but it sure was much cheaper than buying a pump and heat exchanger.
Q: Water pump 50HZ impeller and 60HZ what is different, why not the same?
Water pump 50HZ impeller and 60HZ impeller, its outer diameter is not the same, 60HZ impeller slightly smaller. Because the speed of the impeller of 60HZ is faster, the impeller is a little smaller.Flow rate and speed, impeller diameter into a relationship: Q1/Q2 = n1/n2=D1/D2;Head and speed into two relations: H1/H2 = (n1/n2) 2Motor shaft power and speed into three relations: P1/P2 = (n1/n2) 3From the above deduction, we can know that the motor speed formula is n=60f/p, in which n is motor synchronous speed, and F is supply frequency. P is the pole number of the motor. It is known that the power supply frequency of the motor is proportional to the speed of the f. Therefore, to obtain the same head or flow, high speed, to use a smaller impeller.
Q: I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?
The possibility that the thermostat is up side down comes to mind. Chevy water pumps have been known to loose an impeller, but the collapsing upper hose suggests a vacuum is being pulled, so I don't think it is the water pump.

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