• Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump System 3
Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Ref Price:
$500.00 - 5,000.00 / set get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
10000 set/month

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1. Description

Single stage in-line centrifugal pump with standard motor and mechanicak seal.

Designed to be pulled out from the top when disassemble, it can be repaired without affecting the pipelines.

Less accessible to the impurity in the liquid.


2. Application

The liquid shall be clean, thin, non-corrosive, non-flammable, and non-explosive, without any solid grain and fiber that maigh be damage the pump mechanically or chemically.


3. Technical Data

Capacity: 4~1200m3/h

Head: 20~107m

Liquid Temperature: -15~110℃

Max. Working Pressure: normal type PN12 bar, special type PN16 bar


4. Pump Structure & Material

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Single Stage in-line Centrifugal Pump

5. FAQ

1       Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2       Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3       Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

4       Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.



Q:i have the power max xp652 water pump, 2 inch inlet and outlet, 6.5 horsepower, and says it can reach 100 psi. now i bought the pump so i can use it for my mobile detailing business, the problem is im barely getting 40 psi out the end and its not very much water to wash a car with. Im using a two inch suction hose to get it in, then right after the outlet i reduced it down to 3/4 inch into a 50 ft. garden hose. this only got me 40 psi and the nozzle was basically just spitting it out, so i tried using 50 ft. of 1/4 inch pressure washer hose and it didnt change anything still 40 psi. so please if there is any way i can up the psi, please tell me any ideas are good. i dont know if its just because i reduced it down too quick or if my suction hose is too big. someone who is into hydraulics please help.
I don't know anything about the xp652 , but if this pump goes in a well you also need a pressure tank and then a preassure switch , the pump starts it you the get a tank , if your tank has a bladder it will probably be preset at 30 psi but thats not where you get your pressure the switch has two little screws one will set how hard she blasts ( thats where your pump comes in) the other one sets how low your pressure gets before the pump turns on again , But if the xp652 is an outside system , ( outside of your regular weter pumping system then , Never mind .
Q:I was vacuuming up water from my basement I assumed was from the rain, suddenly water started spraying out of a blue pump at the base of my furnace, don't know what the pump does or why its spraying but its making an awful mess.
Blue pump, usually found on the floor near the furnace (sometimes mounted where plenum meets the furnace frame) is a condensate pump. One of the products of combustion is water. This water is drained from the ventor motor (a motor which runs and sets a artificial draft inside the combustion chamber) to a drain nearby or a electric pump which then pumps the water over a longer distance to a remote drain. If the pump's discharge outlet gets plugged from dirt the result is usually the mess you see. Remove the cover plate of the pump housing, clean it out and run a wire with a small rag attached as a snake through the tube to drain. There is usually some type of float switch inside the pump housing so make sure it is free to move. Check for operation by pouring some tap water in it and move the float switch to on (up) One final note and this is very important. If the pump or tube to drain is filled up with a crud that resembles paste, call your local trusted HVAC tech for furnace service. This condition can be an early sign of heat exchanger failure and is a major safety concern for your family
Q:I need a 12v water pump capable of at least 40psi. The only website that i found is one where you have to order a minimum of 100.
Dude, you're out of practice. What do you mean by small? 12 volt what source? What is your purpose? Blowing imaginary evil fairies away would be so cool!
Q:How can I do a pressure test on my 350's water pump. Some one suggested I do it to make sure it needs replacing.
You cant do a pressure test just on the water pump. But if you go to an auto parts store you can rent a pressure tester that you put on where the radiator cap goes.It will test the whole system for leaks.But sometimes the water pump wont leak. It will freeze up and stop spinning.What makes you think its the water pump?
Q:Yesterday morning I was looking under my hood and I noticed that I was leaking water. It looked like the leak was coming from the water pump.I had to get to work, which is close by so I topped off the radiator and went to work. When I got to work I looked under the car and saw no leaking. I figured the radiator had ran dry although the car hadn't overheated, After work I started to fill the radiator to get home. I saw that I had leaked a little fluid but not much. I topped it off and picked up my son then went home. No overheating. No leaking. Today I've ran several errands and I've had no problems. What do you think was going on with my water pump yesterday?
If you're seeing the drip from just behind the pulley, the pump seal is probably leaking...while it may not be much now, it will only get worse, so take it to a shop for verification of the leak and replacing the water pump...
Q:1995 Ford Contour GL, 2.0L 4Cyl- three water pump failures. I bought the car in 2000 [49,000 miles] and in 2003 [116,000 miles] a leak from the weep hole area was repaired by replacing the pump. In October, 2005 [164,000] another leak from the same place was again repaired by replacing the pump. Just over two years later now, 196,000 miles, and today it's leaking from the same area. Any idea why this would happen? Each time I've replaced the pump, I've not been able to see any damage to it. People talk about impellers breaking, but they've always seemed intact. Maybe it isn't a pump failure so much as a leak for some other reason? Since purchase, the car has run what appears to be hot, in that the temperature gauge, when at operating temps, is only a tick or two from overheating, but since it's in the normal range, I've always assumed it's just a faulty thermostat. It's never overheated except for when the leak has sprung up.Any thoughts? :)
196,000 miles three water pumps is not that bad. Depends where you purchased them. If you opted for cheapies like auto zone then you get what you pay for. Since you are having this problem over and over again, I would agree with the ford technician, purchase one from Ford and see how that does.
Q:hooking up a water pump to my tank and need a power supply
can you be a bit more descriptive have you a pump but no way of powering it if so what type of pump what voltage where is pump
Q:1996 Eagle Vision tsi,has a small coolant leak,was told it iso.k. due to a water pump pressure release valve?has anyone heard of this on an auto?I thought they were only in hot water tanks at home.
No there is not a pressure release valve on a vehicle water pump. There is however a weap hole, which is where it leaks from when your water pump goes bad. The pressure release on the cooling system is through the radiator cap.
Q:Yesterday my car was making squeaky noises in the front and then the fan came on FULL FORCE it sounded lik an airplane. It then started to over heat. I looked to see if there was any antifreeze/coolant in it and it was BONE DRY. I found out the water pump is bad. My boyfriend wants to change it himself but he doesn't know if where it is located is so complex he should take it to a mechanic. He has changed water pumps before. If you know anything about this.. your advice is very much appreciated!!
get a book on you car from autozone and he can fix it. and would give him step by step directions on what to do.
Q:When did the pump start?
The promotion of water is very important to human life and production. There are various ancient water appliances, such as Egypt's chain pump (seventeenth Century BC), China shadoof (seventeenth Century BC), Burton (Eleventh Century BC) and water (first Century ad). The famous spiral rods invented by Archimedes in the third Century BC can lift water to a few meters in a steady and continuous way, and the principle is still used by modern screw pumps.In 200 BC, the ancient Greek fire pump craftsmen invented by Kurt Siby Lucius is a kind of piston pump has the most original, the main components of a typical piston pump piston pump, but only after the steam engine was developed rapidly.1840~1850 years, the United States invented Worthington pump cylinder and steam cylinder opposite, the direct impact of the piston pump, marking the formation of modern piston pumps. Nineteenth Century was the climax of the development of piston pumps, which were already used in a variety of machines, such as water presses. However, with the rapid increase in water demand, from 1920s, the piston pumps with low speed and large flow were gradually replaced by high-speed centrifugal pumps and rotary pumps. But in the field of high pressure and small flow, reciprocating pump still occupies the main position, especially diaphragm pump and plunger pump have their own advantages and are used more and more.

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