• Single Stage Single Suction Vertical/Horizontal Centrifugal Pump System 1
Single Stage Single Suction Vertical/Horizontal Centrifugal Pump

Single Stage Single Suction Vertical/Horizontal Centrifugal Pump

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Q: What I am trying to explain is that I took my vehicle to be serviced for a water pump. They installed it, but when I got my vehicle back, it started making this clicking noise. I took it back to be diagnosed and they came back to me saying that I need a new engine? (Before I took in my vehicle there was no clicking sound or problems, just the water pump.)Could this be the dealer trying to pull something for their mistake or what?
What kind of vehicle?' Depending on the car they may of had to remove the timing belt to access water pump and possibly not set timing correct or left a tensioner loose or soemthing. Did they tell you why you need a new engine?
Q: on my 92' toyota celica, i got the heater core by pass fixed and also a new radiator because both were leaking, and now my mechanic tells me i also need a new water pump , which can be really expensive! apparently it is leaking water too, so i was thinkng just filling up my car with water before driving until i can afford to get it fixed.. can this shortcut be done to prevent my water pump causing me further problems?
You can do that, but you can't fill it with pure water because in time you'll have only water in the system which can cause problems. Antifreeze also increases boiling point of the water/antifreeze mixture thus protecting the engine... You should always add 50/50 mixture. Anyway, bad pump is generally bad for cooling. It is better to have leaking radiators than bad pump.
Q: I am trying to increase the pressure of my shower and I am looking to install a water pump. Does anyone know what kind of pump would work well for this? I don't want a big pressure pump, just a small one that will be cheap.
its called a demand pump when you turn the shower on it kicks on
Q: There is a pump, the rated power is 1200W, but only more than 600 W measured!What's the matter, please?I was not measuring no-load, pumping water in the pool, this work environment should be sufficient to pump full load?Also, is the rated power should not change?Thank you
We must first clear the meaning of rated power; rated power is called the reference numerical electrical power consumption in the voltage conditions specified, and the actual power consumption of electrical appliances is different in different situations, the pure resistance (such as lighting, electric) as long as the voltage conditions, the actual consumption of electric power close to or equal to the rated power, and for appliances like motor, electric power consumption, not only related with the voltage, but also with the relevant load. For example, someone with 200 pounds of energy, then the person in the condition of small meal, maximum load of 200 pounds, but if you take as long as he is 100 pounds, of course he relaxed, he would not say must bear 200 pounds!You measure the pump power is less than 1200W, first you did not mention your use of voltage is not rated voltage, then you don't want him full load, the suction is far less than 8 meters, there is no mention of whether you send water to 50 meters (Yang Cheng), there may be insufficient voltage, and you have don't need it so much power consumption. Of course, one advantage is that it doesn't burn easily. It is easy to burn if it is used at full load.
Q: antifreeze leaking from the water pump. antifreeze wont stay in car, car overheating. 96 chevy cavalier. 2.4
When the bearings go out it damages the seal, which allows coolant to leak from the weep hole. Change the pump ASAP. You don't want the fan going thru the radiator.
Q: Recently my car overheated on my way to work, and so I decided to give it some much needed TLC.I have replaced all in the last week:Spark PlugsDistributor Cap + RotorTiming BeltRelated to the cooling system:Water PumpThermostatAnd the heater still blows hot air so I believe the heater core is fine. Unfortunately even after a couple of radiator flushes the car continues to overheat. I'm considering replacing the radiator because I think it might have too much debris inside to flow properly.I used ZEREX Radiator Super Cleaner but was only able to acheive an hour and a half of driving before my car would not be able to drive anymore. (Supposed to be 3 hours, car temperature began to escalate far beyond what I'm confortable with) I also used ZEREX Radiator Super Flush to no avail.Any suggestions?Car info:Toyota Camry DX 19913S-FE Engine 2.0L I4 1998cc244,500 miles
is your cooling fan working? my guess is it isnt and thats why you overheat. theres a thermal switch for the fan... that may be bad or your cooling fan motor could be bad
Q: It is a 110 shallow well pump for my water source to the house.
If you mean your pump turns on and off rapidly (really short cycles) you have a waterlogged pressure tank. The pressure tank for your system has an air space inside that is separated from the water by a neoprene bladder or diaphragm. The air provides a cushion for the pump and system since air is compressible and water isn't. Sometimes the diaphragm will develop a small hole and water will enter the air space. You may be able bleed the water out and recharge the air or in some cases the diaphragm will have to replaced.
Q: I just had my water pump/timing belt replaced and oil change. When the pump failed, white smoke was coming out, which I figured out to be coolant from the smell. Now there is smoke coming out from under the engine, which I believe to smell like oil. Also, the temperature gauge goes up to the halfway point when I am at a stoplight or idling. The highest I have ever seen it is at 1/3.I had my car serviced by the dealership and I asked them. The man said its burning oil residue from the oil change and that it will burn away in a few days. Is this true? I have had my car worked on and oil changed for the past year at this dealership and have never had any smoke or other problems. What else could be going on? Worse case scenarios. Thanks everyone.
Looks like you should have went ahead and bought the Volkswagen now don't it?
Q: 1998 Toyota Camry 4-cyl.Engine starts and runs, but makes a horrible, random clunking sound that seems to come from the water pump area. Coolant was seeping from front cover, appeared to be from water pump area again. engine idles, but wont rev up at all.My guess is that a bearing let loose or a vane broke off the water pump and is bouncing around inside, triggering the knock sensor which pulls out all of the timing, not letting it rev. Sound right?If that is the problem, what all is involved in replacing the water pump? Its my roommate's car, but I told him I would fix it if possible to save some money. I'm a fairly competent mechanic, but I don't have the best setup here while I'm away at school, so any info on how involved this will be, how many hours of labor is listed for that, or anything to watch for from someone who has had a similar problem before would be greatly appreciated.
If you are going to do this, have him buy a book at the auto parts store.
Q: The water pump is bat on the car I have. I have the part but I need to know if I should have someone install it for me or could I do it myslef. I heard it the timing may be messed up after the pump is in
if you have never did it before ,yes its a pretty hard job to do,and there's more involved than just replacing the pump on it,one thing that might help you is to get a repair manual on the car ,they are very helpful and give tips on how to do it right and not have to do it over again,for someone who has never done this before though and doesn't have the right tools its a pretty hard job,good luck.

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