Vertical Condensate Water Pump . System 1

Vertical Condensate Water Pump .

Ref Price:: $6,000.00 - 60,000.00 / set

Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Product Description:

1. Description

Vertical barrel pumps are multistage, radically split with an outer casing. Fist stage impeller is generally suction impeller, the axially forces are balanced by a thrust ball bearing. Balancing the drum structure can be accomplished when the differential pressure is large. The outer casing only bears the suction pressure, the length of the outer casing and the pump installation depth depends on NPSHr performance requests. If the pump is installed on a tank or pipeline, the outer casing is not necessary.

Light oil lubricated, it has an independent internal recycle automatic lubrication system. Hydraulic dynamic bearing is in the suction end of the pump. Suction and discharge is above the installation flange.

2. Application

Suitable for various liquids include clean or dirty, low temperature or high temperature, neutral or corrosive

Low temperature engineering, power plant

Pipeline pressure increasing

Petrochemical offshore oilfields

LPG engineering

Refinery

3. Technical Data

Size: DN 40~200mm

Capacities to 800m3/h (3522GPM)

Heads to 800m (2625ft)

Pressure to 10MPa

4. Pump Performance

5. FAQ

1 Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2 Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3 Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

4 Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: What's the difference between a cold water pump and a hot water pump?: Cold water pump refers to the pump can be transported below 80 degrees C temperature liquid, known as cold water pump, between 80 degrees C to 120 degrees C, the temperature of the pump is called hot water pump.1, the characteristics of hot water pumpHot water pumps IRG hot water pump which is based on ISG and ISW centrifugal pump series on optimization designed, especially IRG type hot water circulating pump consumption, because the pump adopts a vertical motor is installed in the upper part, and a short frame between the pump and motor, not because of a mechanical seal Water Leakage phenomenon the motor inside the water inlet of the motor burn, but also in the IRG based on the design of the hot water pump mechanical seal in high temperature hot water pump maximum temperature by external tap water cooling device can reach 240 DEG C.2, the characteristics of cold water pumpSeal packing seal or mechanical seal rubber material Ding Qing cold water pump commonly used, the most common packing pump is IS single stage single suction centrifugal pump of the pump is also one of the earliest water pump products, because the filler itself requires liquid cooling and lubricating the pump temperature as the only 80 degrees, and packing seal cold water pump and dripping phenomenon has pollution to the pump body pump base and the surrounding environment, this kind of product has been ISG and ISW centrifugal pump series products replaced, ISG and ISW series of cold water with mechanical seal it has no water leakage phenomenon, and is directly connected with the impeller structure used in the the shaft of the motor, the noise and vibration above is obviously better than that of the old type of IS series cold water pump this kind of pump products commonly used in air conditioning water cycle with so called air conditioning chilled water circulating pump.

Q: I just posted another question a few minutes ago, but not really much help with the one answer I got. I'm now sure that what part I'm feeling on the back of the engine block is the water pump on my 97 Grand Am 2.4L twin cam POS car. I somehow got my hand back there enough to take pictures to see what I'm feeling. Noticed in one of them that there is a bolt missing! This area was very wet with coolant. Would this bolt missing cause the pump/cover to leak? Makes sense to me. If all the bolts aren't there, then there wouldn't be proper seal, right? Had this engine put in a few months ago. The guy who did it seemed to miss a lot of things.: /i thini it might... I would just get a bolt from a local carquest, autozone, aidauto where ever cant be anymore than 5 bucks... best best better than overheating your engine and getting stuck for a couple of bucks

Q: my car ran hot a few times, its a 2006 chevy impala LS with about 50k miles.I do alot of driving but never had a problem until now. I took it to get an oil change and they said that I need a new water pump. I really dont know what that means but im afraid to drive my car until i get a new pump. i called around a few auto places and no one has the part. I called the chevy dealer and they said part and labor is $600. any suggestions of other places i can check for the part? can i still drive my car in the mean time? is it safe?are water pumps usually that expensive?: 2006 Impala Water Pump

Q: Pump house should be equipped with those equipment and valves: The room should be full of equipment!

Q: I just put a new water pump in my jeep and after I put it in I ran it and it seemed to have a small leak while it was running it seems like it was coming from the crank which is under the water pump so it might be a leak coming from the bottom of the pump. When I turn the car off it is no longer a leak its more like pouring water out. What do you think it can be? I put a gasket and the blue silicone gasket sealant all around it and on it before I put it in so I have no idea. Thank you for the help.: Sound like the new water pump is junk. The water is leaking out of the weep hole. That is a hole designed to leak when the pump bearing is going bad. It is a safety precaution so you don't fry the bearing and lock up your pulley system.

Q: How do you measure and analyse the pump characteristics and efficiency?: An automotive water pump consists of a steel shaft with an impeller (like a steamboat paddle wheel) on one end and a pulley flange on the other. The shaft spins on bearings located in a cast iron or aluminum housing. The housing has internal passages to allow the water to enter the impeller cavity and exit, often to a tube like structure (part of the housing casting) to which one of the rubber radiator hoses attaches. How it works is simple. Water present in the impeller cavity is confined and pushed to the outlet by the rotating vanes of the impeller. The rotation of the pump is usually driven by a belt powered by a pulley on the engine which turns a second pulley mounted to the pumps pulley flange. The characteristics might include things like, is the pump self priming or is it self lubricating? In an automotive system the answer to both questions is yes. To evaluate a pumps efficiency you would want to set up a test rig where you attach the pumps outlet to a long hose and use it to fill a calibrated container (one gallon, five gallons etc). Then with a stopwatch you can either time how long it takes to fill a gallon container or you can measure the volume of water pumped in a minute. Either way you will get useful information you can use to evaluate the pumps efficiency. You should repeat the above test at different engine RPM's to discover if the pump has peak efficiency (or lack of efficiency) at a particular RPM or range of RPM's. Finally, if you do this experiment for real be sure you add water as fast as you pump it out so you don't over heat the engine and damage it. Have fun.

Q: I want to run 1 HP, 220 v, single phase water pump on solar panels without using any batteries. what do I need to do so amp; how do I wire it?: Hey R, if you have an existing pump you are trying to run that is designed for 220 AC, I would suggest going with the battery and inverter, but either way it will take about 1200 watts of solar. With no battery, the panels need to provide for the surge power to start up the pump, so now you're looking at at least 2000 watts of panel. Then as Caoedhen pointed out, one cloud goes by, it shuts down then starts again, this is not good for pump longevity, so you'll be spending more on replacement parts too. If you don't have the pump yet, and you want to go solar, I would use a slow DC pump, they make them strictly for solar panel operation, no batteries or special controllers. Windy Dankoff probably is the expert, do a google search for DC slow pumps, or look for Windy's website. Then you can get by with a lot less panel, and a better pump for them, plus no batteries. Take care, Rudydoo

Q: How to design its control circuit, to prevent it idling, what peripheral equipment do you need?: It burns and seals when idling. The individual thinks that it can be indirectly reacted according to the pressure change in the pipeline, and the electric contact pressure gauge can be installed on the suction pipe

Q: What does water flow mean?: The amount of water delivered by the pump during the unit time, that is, the flow of the pump. Generally, there are three kinds of time units, namely, seconds, minutes and hours. In our country, the unit of flow adopts the international metric units, liters, milliliters, cubic, thousand cubic meters, etc., and different units are used according to different usage environments.

Q: i have a 1991 Jeep Cherokee, started overheating last week, i flushed out the radiator with water, i replaced the thermostat, overheated again, i felt the top radiator hose it was cold. so i replaced the water pump. still overheated. every time i drain the system when i refill it i had red to fill the radiator and reservoir, leave the radiator cap off, then start the engine and turn the heat on max, the radiator burps the air bubble out, then the coolant level in the radiator starts going up and down, my thermostat is rated at 195, when the guage hits 210 hot coolant sprays out of the radiator, but the top radiator hose is cold, what am i doing wrong? is there air still trapped in that top radiator hose?: id say its the radiator after all what ya replaced. have it checked out at a shop. before ya do though ya might do a complete flush of the motor and the cooling system. might be a blockage in a water jacket in the motor. ya can buy the flush kit at any parts store, its simply a T that ya splice into on of the heater core hoses,hook up a water hose,turn heater on, and wait with the engine running. if theres any blockage it will spit and sputter till its pushed out with the water pressure. let it idle till clear water comes out then drain and add coolant. try this first with water only and if it doesnt solve your problem id say ya need a radiator.

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