• Vertical Can-type/Barrel Pump           . System 1
  • Vertical Can-type/Barrel Pump           . System 2
  • Vertical Can-type/Barrel Pump           . System 3
Vertical Can-type/Barrel Pump           .

Vertical Can-type/Barrel Pump .

Ref Price:
$6,000.00 - 60,000.00 / set get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Product Description:

1. Description

Vertical barrel pumps are multistage, radically split with an outer casing. Fist stage impeller is generally suction impeller, the axially forces are balanced by a thrust ball bearing. Balancing the drum structure can be accomplished when the differential pressure is large. The outer casing only bears the suction pressure, the length of the outer casing and the pump installation depth depends on NPSHr performance requests. If the pump is installed on a tank or pipeline, the outer casing is not necessary.

Light oil lubricated, it has an independent internal recycle automatic lubrication system. Hydraulic dynamic bearing is in the suction end of the pump. Suction and discharge is above the installation flange.

 2. Application

Suitable for various liquids include clean or dirty, low temperature or high temperature, neutral or corrosive

Low temperature engineering, power plant

Pipeline pressure increasing

Petrochemical offshore oilfields

LPG engineering

Refinery

 

3. Technical Data

Size: DN 40~200mm

Capacities to 800m3/h (3522GPM)

Heads to 800m (2625ft)

Pressure to 10MPa

 

4. Pump Performance

Vertical Can-type/Barrel Pump(API610 VS6)

 

5. FAQ

1       Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2       Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3       Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

4       Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Which professional friends ask, I encountered a problem in the design of fire pump head 90 meters, flow rate is 20/S, power is 37KW, but the construction side to buy the pump head and flow are achieved, but the power is only 30KW, this relationship? If you can, let me know by the way, thank you
Lift and flow to meet the requirements of power, in fact little difference, different manufacturers and brands in the same common effect of different power phenomenon, design principle is on the one hand, the hysteresis loss mechanical loss processing technology is one of the reasons of the differences. Power, after all, does not increase, and does not have a major impact on other lines.
Q: Ac was working fine before the mechanic replaced the water pump. Now the AC only blows hot air. Is this related?
i used some product i've got been given at checker vehicle areas to fix a head gasket that grew to become into blown into the coolant device. that they had some distinctive types, some properly suited with coolant, some not. i've got been given the stuff that grew to become into properly suited with coolant. i'm very sceptical on stuff like this, in spite of if it has labored so a procedures. i paid like $30 for it. i grew to become into surprised
Q: When we turn our water on in the house it will run for a while and then shut off.. It has been coming back on after 5 0r 6 mins.it used to do this about once a week but now it does it every day we don't mess with any breakers because they don't get triped . We are on well and this well is about 7 yrs old anyone have an idea what could be the problem .. If any more info is needed I can reply..
Your bladder tank is water logged, you will need to drain the holding tank and refill then check pressure, you will probably have to add air to the tank. There will be a shrader valve (the same kind of valve on your vehicle tire, use a tire gauge) near the top of your tank. Check the pressure first, if the pressure is low(there is a tag telling you what the pressure should be) you will probably have water at the Shrader valve. Very common where soil is sandy.
Q: i need to know how the water pumps, how it transports, where it goes, and how the structure is used to control the direction of the flow. Please help? I'd really like to know., thank you in advance!
you're saying that your pump used to function precise in the previous, so if the pump is in sturdy situation, the elevate should not be too great so we are able to rule that out. it sounds as though to me that the gurgling sound may well be made by potential of sucking air, and for this to ensue, it would be a concern on the inlet area of the pump. If the guy who repaired the pump is familiar with what he's doing, it won't be the pump, so we are able to rule that out. That leaves the pipe and any fittings between the pump and the foot valve that could desire to be on the top of the pipe. attempt working the pump, and pouring water over all joints and fittings, one after the different, if the pump is working precise, a slurping sound would be heard on the leak. The pump could have a priming factor, a screw in plug, someplace on proper of it. With the pump stopped, get rid of the plug, and pour water into the hollow. you will possibly desire to have the skill to fill the pump appropriate up, and the water stay at that time, without draining away. If it wont hold the water, the valve on the backside of the pipe is the two wiped out or has something like a stone or gravel struggling with it from working precise. As you have disconnected this pump for upkeep, it would have needed priming besides, that's the filling up with water. it is too plenty to ask a dry pump to enhance water any peak, so in step with danger you do not have a concern in any respect. sturdy success
Q: i hear water swirl in my dash board when i take off and when i reverse, i heard its the water pump pushing water through the heater core, but how can i fix it.?
The issue is not just that the water pump is pumping air through the system, it is that there is an issue with air being in there in the first place. It gets there one of two ways. First, your cooling system is losing water somewhere and air is getting drawn in through the coolant overflow bottle or through a leak in the hoses, the radiator, or the radiator cap. Second it is getting in through a compression leak. Compression leaks are caused by blown head gaskets or cracked or corroded cylinder heads or engine blocks. You need to determine which it is, because you need to address the issues differently. Fill the cooling system with coolant, purge the air out of it, and connect a pressure gauge to the radiator where the cap normally goes. Start the engine. If the gauge fluctuates up and down, you have a compression leak caused by a blown head gasket or crack in the block or head. If the gauge doesn't fluctuate, you have a leak in the cooling system that could be in any one of many places, such as hoses, caps, freeze plugs, the radiator itself, the heater core, or one of many gaskets. If it turns out to be a compression leak, you need to pull off the heads and replace the gaskets, and if there is any corrosion or cracks, you need to either replace or repair the heads. Broken head bolts can also allow compression leaks, so if you do remove the heads, you need to replace the bolts and torque them to the correct specs. If your engine oil looks frothy, like latte, this is another sign that you have a blown head gasket. It means coolant is getting into the engine oil. If it is a leak in the cooling system that is not related to the head gasket, you need to find it and seal it. There is no other way to find out exactly what is allowing air into your cooling system other than these two methods. The sound you hear when water is flowing through your heater core is actually the air gurgling through. No air, no sound.
Q: My water pump is sitting very close if not rubbing against the case. There were shavings and a groove. Would this cause it to knock? Also would this blow up the lower end? One more, Should it be in the center or offset twards the top?
it won't spin whilst you evaluate that's quickly geared to the crankshaft. turn the crankshaft - it is going to then spin. you may no longer eliminate the water pump without eliminating the grab conceal. eliminate the water pump shaft's protecting clip, to eliminate the water pump.
Q: My friend wants to buy a 90's somethin dodge avenger.( not sure what year) and the guy says the water pump is bad. Does the car have to be re timed when u replace the water pump?
There is no connection between the water pump and the timing. Timing is a function of the engine ignition system, water pumps are part of the cooling system. There is no relationship. The water pump is driven by the belt that drives all the other engine accessories. Changing a water pump does not in any way effect timing.
Q: About how to calculate the pump installation height?
Best to find water pump manufacturers, their own bad count. Sometimes is not necessarily correct, which is related to some parameters of the pump itself, with bad cavitation
Q: How important is a torque wrench,if so what is the proper fp torque for pump/pulley ?
It shouldn't be that critical for water pump bolts. It is extremely important for something like engine head bolts because of the extreme pressures inside the cylinders. Just refrain from over-tightening. I've replaced a number of water pumps and have never used a torque wrench.
Q: I brought my car to a shop because I get no heat. The mechanic diagnosed my car as having a blown gasket head because there were hydrocarbons in my coolant. The repair cost was too high, so a I figured I'd just run the car until it broke on me. A month later I see it overheating on the way to work and a month after that it completely powers down (electrically) while I'm driving and I see a lot of white smoke (coolant was all over the engine). After it's had time to cool down I can start it up just fine. I pour coolant in and it comes right back out the bottom of the water pump.Could a bad water pump have been the reason for the hydrocarbons and no heat in the first place? Could it have caused the appearance of hydrocarbons in my coolant? If the head gasket is blown and this is just a symptom, is it cost effective to replace the water pump or will it just break on me again in a short time?
leaky water pump would cause overheating. *overheating* would cause a chamber gasket sealing issue. so it's not the pump that caused the coolant to fail the contamination test. it's collateral damage to chamber sealing caused by the overheat condition as a result of a bad water pump. the real Q here is the type of engine. we've no idea what that is or the yr/make/model of the platform. some engines have oil and coolant passages on the intake manifold. even if those passages are blind. so in the end, it could be an intake or head gasket that took a hit after the overheat condition. -------- cost effective to fix? couldn't tell ya. that would be determinded by the condition/value of the platform, and what all took collateral damage and cost of what needs to be done. since there's no vehicle or engine info, that can only be determined by you and a diagnostic tech of your choosing.

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