TPG Type Vertical Inline Centrifugal Pump

TPG Type Vertical Inline Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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TPG series single stage vertical inline centrifugal pump is the second generation of high efficiency energy-saving product designed by our company based on many years of production experience as per the performance parameters stated in the internatonal standard ISO2858 and the national standard JB/T6878.2-93.This pump can also be used in oil and gasoil environment, for this condition, we make our pumps based on the new standard API 610 tenth edition It is an ideal substitute for normal pumps like SG and D multi-stage centifugal pumps. The series has a flow range of 1.5-1600m3/h and a lift head range of 5-125m, which includes many specifications like basic, diversion and cutting types. According to the difference in working medium and temperature as well as meterial and structural changes of the flow-through part, it can designed and manufactured into TPRG hot water pump,IHG pipeline chemical pump and YG pipeline oil pump with the same performance parameters. Accordingly, this series can be widely applied to replaced the normal centrifugal pump completely to be used in all cases.

Working Conditions:

1.Suction pressure ≤1.0MPa, or the maximum working pressure of pump system ≤1.6MPa, namely pump suction pressure +pump delivery head≤1.6MPa, pump static tes pressure at 2.5MPa. Please specify the working pressure of the system when placing an oeder. To acquired working pressure of pump system greater than 1.6MPa should be specified separately when placing an order for our conenience to use

2.Ambient temperature<40°C,relative humidity<95%.

3.Volume content of solid particles in medium to be delivered shouldn't exceed 0.1% of unit volume, granularity<0.2mm.

Note: to handle medium carring small particals, please specify when placing an order for our convenience to use wear resistant mechanical seal.

Rang of Application:

Daily and fire water supply for constructions,air conditioning system,cyclic pressurization for other cold and hot clean medium.

Type Designation:

TPG TPR TPHG TPYG TPGD 100-160 (I) A(B)

TPG – Vertical Inline Centrifugal Pump

100 – Diameter of pump inlet and outlet (mm)

160 – Nominsl diameter of impeller (mm)

I –Flow classification

A – Primary cutting of impeller

B – Secondary cutting of impeller

Technology Parameters:

Flow:1.5-1200m3/h;

Head:5-150m;

Power:0.18-250kw;

Rotary speed:980-2900r/min;

Cabilre:15-500mm;

Temperature range:-20°C-+120°C.

Q: my basement flooded and the water came in contact with the wiring on my water pump.Now the pump tries to turn on but shuts off without pumping any water.How do i get my pump pumping water again?: What kind of pump (ie sump,submersible,shallow well).If it just hums and the shaft doesn't turn its probably the capacitor($25 at johnson controls) or it could be one leg of your 240v breaker tripped(check voltage at breaker and wiring)

Q: I live in a house that uses a pump to push water from a tank to the bathroom and kitchen. It has a sensor that detects if water is flowing and pushes it much harder. Recently, it has been pushing the water for a second or less then it completely stops for a while. It's like a pulse of water then nothing. Can anyone give me feedback on what is wrong here? Thank you.: from okorder :Self-priming pump working principle is: the pump before you start in the pump shell filled with water (or) from the water in the pump housing.Start after high-speed rotating impeller flow to the vortex in the impeller, shell, then the entry form the vacuum, the inlet non-return door open, within the air into the pump suction tube and the impeller, to arrive at the outer edge.Self-priming pump is a self-priming centrifugal pump, it has compact structure, convenient operation, stable operation, easy maintenance, high efficiency, long service life, and have strong self-priming capacity, etc.Line does not need to install the bottom valve, only to ensure storage in pump body before work are quantitative liquid.Pump after the normal starting, impeller liquid of suction chamber and inlet line of air suction, and can completely mixed within the impeller, the function of centrifugal force, and liquid with gas to the vortex flow volume outside edge, the impeller has a certain thickness is formed on the outer edge of the white foam belt and high-speed rotating liquid ring.Gas-liquid mixture into the gas-liquid separation chamber through diffusion tube.At this time, due to the flow rate suddenly drops, lighter gas is separated from the mixture of liquid and gas through the pump body spit continues to rise.After degassing of liquid to liquid storage chamber, and the reflux hole again into the impeller, and impeller with inhalation of gases from the inlet line again mix, flow under the action of the high-speed rotating impeller and the impeller outer edge....As the process cycle, decreasing the air in the suction line, until all gas absorption, complete the self-priming process, pump put into normal operation. What you said phenomenon should be pipeline leak, which leads to the self-priming pump process is repeated.

Q: i was coming home from from work and my jeep thew the serpenteen belt and my water pump is the only pulley not moving good like the rest and is leaking coolent. and people with just dump **** to say dont comment on this: 1st off juan needs to get a life. now to help you .buy a haynes manual so you can go and do the removal and replacement of your water pump. step 1) remove the fan shroud 2) drain the coolant. make sure you do this so your critters won't drink it 3) remove the radiator. 4) remove the fan but do not remove the belt. this helps keep the fan from moving while you remove the bolts. if you have an electric fan remove this at the same time you remove the radiator 5) referring to the haynes manual remove any accessories that might be attached to the water pump 6) remove the pump. please refer to the haynes manual to insure you do the removal and re-instal correctly. oh yea, don't get fustrated . if you do just take a break. good luck and happy jeepin

Q: how to replace water pump in a 96 F150?: 1. drain coolant 2. remove engine fan and clutch assembly 3. remove radiator hose connection at water pump 4. remove water pump 5. clean water pump to engine mating surfaces 6. install water pump with water pump gasket 7. rest of installationin reverse order of removal

Q: I have a slight idea but I would like to see what steps other people have taken. I have a 1992 ford escort that needs a new water pump, what steps have you taken to replace it?: if you're going to do it yourself first I recommend getting the book for the car sometimes the library will have them..you also want to be careful when changing the water pump because your timing belt is hooked up to the water pump. If you misalign the camshaft or the crankshaft pulleys or turn them independently when the belt is off you can cause damage to the head of the engine (very important: your timing will be off..you don't want that). To start with though, you will have to take off your accessory belt and the accessory crank pulley, then take off the timing belt cover and use the crank shaft pulley to line up the marks that are on the pulley and the engine (on both the crankshaft pulley and the cam shaft pulley) carefully take the timing belt off (replace the timing belt and the timing belt tensioner..trust me it'll be worth it). You're going to have to drain the antifreeze before you take the water pump off. (I would also replace the thermostat because its cheap and you already have the fluid out) The install is pretty much the opposite. (again make sure the marks line up on the cam and crank pulleys and don't turn them independently when you're putting the belt back on) (short answer: get the book and/or have someone that's done it before help) when your done you can say you did it :)

Q: I installed a circulating pump in the far bathroom, since the length to the water heater made for a long wait. It takes 25 seconds for the hot water to arrive, which means 25 seconds of hot water wasted, once the water is shut off.Is it cheaper to, selectively(2 settings on timer) run the pump, or just wait on the hot water? And without the consideration, that time equals money. I imagine the more people that use it, the more efficient it gets.: If you mean your hot water heater is not heating as fast as it should be, is there anything wrong with the heater itself? Is the temperature setting proper? It sounds like you may mean it is just taking a long time for the hot water to get to the faucet. A lot of things can factor into that: --long pipe runs --colder winter temperature --less insulation of pipes The only things I can think of to reduce waste are: --making sure that all hot water tasks are done at about the same time, e.g., baths one after another, so the water cannot cool off in the pipes between bathers; --water heater timer or install a tankless water heater or two; --not running the water the whole time in the shower, e.g., wet down, turn off water, soap up, rrinse. --keeping buckets to fill with the cooler water, then using that water for plant watering, the first cycle in a clothes washer, or toilet flushing.

Q: 1998 Toyota Camry 4-cyl.Engine starts and runs, but makes a horrible, random clunking sound that seems to come from the water pump area. Coolant was seeping from front cover, appeared to be from water pump area again. engine idles, but wont rev up at all.My guess is that a bearing let loose or a vane broke off the water pump and is bouncing around inside, triggering the knock sensor which pulls out all of the timing, not letting it rev. Sound right?If that is the problem, what all is involved in replacing the water pump? Its my roommate's car, but I told him I would fix it if possible to save some money. I'm a fairly competent mechanic, but I don't have the best setup here while I'm away at school, so any info on how involved this will be, how many hours of labor is listed for that, or anything to watch for from someone who has had a similar problem before would be greatly appreciated.: water pump is driven by timing belt. need to replace together. water pump may have threw belt off, explaining no acceleration. weekend job, use new pump, vs. reman. get set with belt and new tensioner.

Q: Ok, so I was driving the other day when I heard this quot;clunksound...my AC went out (stopped blowing cold), and power steering went out. I pulled over and one of the wheels where the serpentine belt goes on was off and obviously the belt was off too. I got it towed to a shop where they showed me I needed a new belt - it was ripped, and told me I need a new water pump...all together a 400 dollar job after labor and parts. I was hoping I would just need a new belt and they could bolt back on the wheel...From a chic standpoint, this seemed logical. I know nothing about cars and I'm always very skeptical when I take my car anywhere to get it worked on bc I could be told anything and wouldn't know the difference...Has anyone had a similar experience or does this sound like the problem? I have a 07 honda civic...around 80,000 miles.: to make it simple what it sound like that they are saying is that the water pump is broken and when this happens in some case one can not turn the pulley of the water pump so the belt would slip on it so long until it overheats and melts leading it to rip. if u don't trust your mechanic have another mechanic look at it and if they tell you the exact same thing chances are they are both right.

Q: What is the influence of the speed of the pump motor on the pump?: Low speed, the pump has a certain wear and tear

Q: Im looking at putting a cabin on my property. I have a 200 gallon underground fresh water tank and i'm needing a pump to get the water into the cabin. i want to run a toilet, sink and possibly a shower. does anyone know the style of pump i would need that would only operate when i need it to that way it does not burn up.: I had a jet pump to run my whole house on my farm. It was placed in the basement, but it could be in a back room, too and they are pretty quiet these days. Does it freeze inside the cabin? I assume not. having it inside means if you have trouble even in freezing weather you can work on it in comfort. The end of the pie into your water tank will need a foot valve to keep the pipe filled so you don't have to prime the pump ( not a handy thing to have to do all the time). Other than that, the system is operated with electricity and a pressure switch which is settable. It will not run all the time this way. Not sure anymore but, for example the switch might be set to come on at 50PSI and shut off at 125PSI. You can tell by the switch or get a recommendation from the store where you buy it. (see pictures in link) Menard's sells these and department workers are trained to answer all your questions about installation, parts, and what you need,etc.

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