Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Pump
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
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Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Pump
Description of Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Pump
HS(V)type series pump is new generation single stage double suction split casing centrifugal pump that is designed and produced by foreign advanced manufacturing technology of 1990's 20th century.
Application Area of Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Pump
HS(V) type series pump is mainly used in water supply plants, power stations, industry water supply system, air conditioning circulation water, building water supply, irrigation, pump stations, and shipping industry.
Performance Range of Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Pump
Inlet diameter: 125~1600 mm
Outlet diameter: 80~1400 mm
Capacity: ≤ 30000 m3/h
Head: ≤ 200 m
Working temperature: < 105 º C
Solid particles: ≤ 80mg/L
Permitted working pressure: ≤ 2.5 MPa
Permitted testing pressure: ≤ 3.75 Mpa
Structural Characteristics of Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Pump
1, Compact structure
Nice appearance, good stability and easy installation.
2, Operate steadily
The double suction impeller which is optimum and designed by computer, and has a large inlet flowing area. The clapboard is set at packing box of inlet flow passage, it makes no vortex at inlet of pump. It adopts resin sand moulding and high quality cast technology to make the inner surface of pump casing and the surface of impeller smoother than before. Through above measures, we make pump operate with no vortex, operate smoother and have remarkable erosion-resistant ability and high efficiency.
3, Bearing
Excellent bearing is used to assure the steady operation, low noise, long service life. Grease lubrication and closed structure is used. If thin oil lubrication structure is needed, a constant level oil cup shall be equipped.
4, Shaft seal
Mechanical seal or packing seal shall be used. These two kinds of seal are all installed in the removable packing box, which is convenient to assembly and maintenance. The packing gland of pump is removable and open, which assures enough room for maintenance and repair.
5, Impeller
The latest technology is adopted as well as the best hydraulic model, which makes the double suction impeller can balance the axial force automatically.
6, Shaft
Shaft is completely sealed without contacting the medium or corrosion. The length of the shaft is shortened compared with that of S, SH type pumps, and it is hard with no vibration. A replaceable shaft sleeve is installed on the shaft. There is no thread on the shaft, and o-ring structure is adopted to assure shaft and bearing do not contact the medium to improve the service life. It is easy to assemble without adjustment. Pump rotor part shall be installed with elastic prestressing force, which makes the installation and disassembly much easier and more convenient.
7, Casing
For the pump of high head, double split casing passage is adopted, which counteracts most of the radial force and prolongs the life of bearing on two sides.
According to the different mediums and using requirements, main parts of the pump can adopt various materials
FAQ
Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors
A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.
Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?
A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.
Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?
A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?
A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.
- Q: My water pump is losing pressure slowly even though no water is being used. Your help is appreciated. Thank you.
- I vote for the check valve in the well drop pipe. The valve and seat are both brass - no rubber seal - so it's bound to always leak somewhat. If the leak has increased recently, it's due to wear beginning to show or a bit of sand caught in it. A little extra on the electric bill is a lot less than the cost of pulling the well to replace the $20.00 valve. Another possibility:Your pressure tank air cushion may have lost air and become partially waterlogged. This will increase the pump operation. It won't run as long but it will run more often. The system pressure will drop faster than normal. Perhaps this is what you perceive as a leak. Ask your well man how to check the air pressure in your particular tank.
- Q: Submersible pump reverse impact on the pump
- Small amount of water, large current, long running time, easy overheating, or even burning pump.
- Q: I will be replacing my water pump tomorrow and my question is can I use copper spay gasket to spray on the water pump gasket?it this stuff good?99 ford explorer 4.0 ohv with 144k,mileshere is a pictures of the product.
- Sure, why not? Usually, the metal area when most water pumps are bolted too are cleaned with a scraper of some kind and old gasket matter is removed. That surface should be cleaned, flat, and free of irregularity. Most mechanics, if they use any kind of stickum - like contact cement from a tube, or the costlier, but not-needed specialty sealers, is applied to the pump surface so the gasket stays put and not move when installing the bolts. The glue does not do any actual sealing, just the fiber gasket will. None needs to be applied to the engine side that you scraped clean. Make sense to you? It's probably a good idea to service the cooling system with a non-caustic flush cleaner before hand -since all the coolant will come out during the change. Then add a additive that neutralizes acids with the new anti-freeze.
- Q: The water pump doesn't seem to be leaking but I do have a leak under the engine in a place I can't get to. The water doesn't seem to be getting to the upper hoses of the engine. I do hear a odd sound like lose rocker arms but its hard to tell where its coming from.This engine is to big for this boat there is no room to work on it except to pull the engine. What was Four Winns thinking??? A simple fix is a major repair. Thanks
- drive your boat as fast and far as you can. at that point you will find if anything is broken. i say if it ain't broke don't fixit!!! if it brakes then you know what to fix. since it hard to get to your water pump just take your motor out and rebuild the whole thing. welcome to boating.
- Q: For the past couple days my car has been over heating quickly and there ha been some leaking underneath my car. well I went to start my car today to run to the store and the heating gauge was going up and down from overheating to perfectly fine within seconds...I popped the hood and there was antifreeze spraying on the engine. So my friend that I called said that meant there was a leak in my water pump. The autoshop in town is busy with over cars all day, I already called, and there isn't another shop within 15 miles. I work in 3 hours, and the drive is 30 minutes away. I have no other way to get to work, is it safe to drive my car or should I call in and let my manager know I can't make it? I have been working there almost 2 months and have never been late or called in.
- Usually the water pump doesn't spray all over the engine. You might just need to re-hook up one of the hoses and fill it up with coolant mix. You have to look and see where the leak is. I would try to find out what it is but I wouldn't drive 30 minutes away.
- Q: 1997 Caravelle 1900BR3.0L HO Volvo PentaSX Cobra OutdriveI have a small leak coming from my raw water pump, it is not a continuous stream just a drop every now and then. The best I can tell it is coming from between the shaft and water pump housing. Is there just a small o-ring there? How can this be fixed?We're going to the lake for Memorial Day Weekend. Will I be alright with the small drip for over the weekend? Then I'll fix it when I can get the parts.
- Could be any one of a few things. If you're brave enough to taste it (just get some on your finger and touch the tip of your tongue), then you'll be able to tell if it's rainwater or engine coolant, which tastes sweet. If it's coolant, then your heater has a leak. More likely today is rainwater getting in round the windscreen seal or the sunroof, if it has one. Leaks are very difficult to trace and you might have to wait for a dry day, then remove all the carpets and sit in the car while someone aims a powerful jetwash around suspect areas.
- Q: How many pumps does a 50 meter water head use?
- Considering the pipe resistance and the water head, it is recommended to use the pump at 65 meters or so!
- Q: I have a four cylinder ranger with manual transmission. The top pulley was making a squeaking sound the other day and stopping and going. The car stalled out so I had to give it gas for about a minute, and this has happened several more times in the past week. And the car is making a somewhat loud rumbling/clanking noise, which I'm guessing is the bearings on the water pump. So my question is how much will a new water pump cost, I've seen prices quoted on here from $150-$700. Also, it was in the mechanic the other week and I asked him to check the ac compressor and he said it was fine.Thanks
- A water pump for your truck costs $63 at Autozone. I can't imagine where you got those prices at. Take the belt off and turn all the pulleys by hand. You should be able to tell which one is bad. Water pumps don't have bearings. The shaft just rides in a bronze race.
- Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
- The first thing I was taught on Volvo water pumps was to use NO sealer. Get yourself a new gasket.Make sure the block is clean. Install the gasket on the two studs. Grease the heater pipe o-ring after installing on the pipe. Grease the hole it fits into. Install the top seal on the water pump and coat the surface with grease. Install the pump on the block and make sure the pipe has entered the pump. Tighten the two nuts until the pump is almost contacting the block but still moves easily. Insert a smaller Phillips head screwdriver into the bottom bolt hole of the pump and into the block. Lift the pump ,using the screwdriver ,until you can start the top bolt.Then use the screwdriver to wiggle the pump to start the left side bolt. Once you have started those two bolts,the bottom one will go right in. Tighten it all up and install the heater pipe bolt and you are done.
- Q: my 98 expedition keeps over heating, i replaced the water pump, thermostat,coolant. it will be fine one minute then it overheats. weather im on the road or sitting at a light. i also replaced the fan clutch. thanks!
- If you have the 5.4L motor it will have a plastic intake manifold. Look at the front. There is an aluminum crossover pipe attached to the front on the top. Those are famous for leaking aroung where the intake meets the head and where the aluminum and plastic meet. You may need a flashlight and a small inspection mirror to check all the way around. Also if the valley or apace between the heads has coolant sitting in it that's a good bet you have a leaking crossover or a head temp sensor leaking. The head temp sensors are located at the back of the heads. The other common spot for coolant to leak is the heater hoses be sure to check at all the fittings and make sure they haven't come apart up by the firewall. One last thing to check is the belt around the water pump pulley. It is easy to put it on so the water pump spins the wrong way. Common mistake. Lastly if the manifold IS leaking do NOT attempt to do this if you do not have a top notch torque wrench!!! You can very easily strip the bolts or holes that are in the heads. If you are not sure take it to a good technician. Dorman makes a good replacement manifold for about 200-300 bucks. The gaskets are made onto it. I have had no issues with that one leaking. Also do not try to relpace just the crossover... I know that it has bolts and they sell gaskets but it will leak. If the manifold needs to come off it is also a great time to change the plugs. They will be super easy at that point, be sure to use new Injector o-rings too. Hope that helps. Jim
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Single Stage Double Suction Split Casing Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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