Sea Water Cooling Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: -

Supply Capability:: 5000 unit/month

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:Henan, China (Mainland)
Model Number:200QJ80-140/7
Theory:Centrifugal Pump
Structure:Multistage Pump
Usage:Water
Power:Electric
Standard or Nonstandard:Standard
Fuel:Electric
Pressure:High Pressure
Application:Submersible
Material:Cast Iron / Stainless Steel
Color:Blue
Flow:80m3/h
Head Range:140m
Power:55kW
Outlet:4 inch
OEM,Design Service:Accept

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	wooden box packing
Delivery Detail:	5-7days after payment confirmation or as customers' requirements

Specifications

sea water cooling pump
1.Flow range:10~500 m3/h
2.Lift range:10~600m
3.no leakage
4.high head

sea water cooling pump

1. Operation parameters

Flow range	10~500 m3/h
Lift range	10~600m
Applicable well Borehole diameter	φ175~φ400mm
Diameter scope	φ32~φ203mm
Temperature range	-15~80 centidegree

2.Product overview

QJ submersible pumps are widely used in

agriculture irrigation, sprinkler irrigation well water lifting
water supply, drain system of industrial and civil building
the hill, mountain areas' water diversion
drainage of low-lying areas
water supply, drainage of industrial and mining enterprises in urban and rural area
all the other water facilities

agriculture irrigation, sprinkler irrigation well water lifting

water supply, drain system of industrial and civil building

the hill, mountain areas' water diversion

drainage of low-lying areas

water supply, drainage of industrial and mining enterprises in urban and rural area

all the other water facilities

3. Technical parameters

Several type parameters, other type, please contact with manufacturer.

Model	Flow range	Head range	Rotation speed	Pump efficiency	Rated power of motor	Maximum outer diameter of unit	Weight
Model	(m3/h)	(m)	(r/min)	(%)	(kw)	(mm)	(kg)
175QJ10-40/3	9-11	42- 38	2850	53	2.2		48
175QJ15-65/5	13-17	68- 62	2850	58	5.5	168	73
200QJ15-26/2	13-17	28- 24	2850	62	2.2	184	48
200QJ20-30/2	18-22	31- 29	2850	66	3	184	59
250QJ140-105/7	130-150	91-120	2875	76	63	233	430
300QJ300-160	279-321	167-153	2900	76	220		620

4. QJ using condition

(1). 380V voltage deviation is no more than ±5%, frequency is 50HZ, three -phase power deviation is no more than ±1%.

(2). Motor cavity must be filled with water.

(3). The first stage impeller of the pump should be more than 2mm below the moving water surface, pump unit should be less than 70m below the static water level.

(4). The distance from the motor bottom to well bottom must be more than 3m.

(5). Water temperature should be no more than 20 centidegree.

(6). Sand content of the water ( by mass) should be no more than 0.01%.

(7). PH value of water 6.5~8.5.

(8). Hydrogen sulfide content of the water should be no more than 1.5mg/L.

(9). Chloride ion content of the water should be no more than 400mg/L.

(10). Water yield of water source should ensure the requirements of pump continuous working.

5. Characteristics

(1). Motors and pumps assembled into one.

(2). Simple structure.

(3). Easy installation and removal, small area.

(4). Simple using and maintenance.

(5). Safe and reliable operation, no pollution to water, etc.

Q: I'm planning to install a water pump using electric generator from a very long distance going up from a cliff: Well yes it wiould , powerful pumps need more electric power so check that the generator can supply the power needed by the pump

Q: I'm building a 79 SBC (old style) 350 and have a new stock water pump...what hose and where does it go from the top of the water pump to wherever? Heater hose? Or can I just leave it plugged. No A/C I just need a heater/defroster, etc...: heater hose should originate from the passenger side of the firewall and go to the water pump. if you plug it then no hot water will go to your heater core and you wont have heat/defrost just air that is the same temp as outside air

Q: I posted this earlier but nobody really answered my question . if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? The bolts holding the pump in are around it near the timing chain cover but they don't look like they are inside it. the pump is clearly driven by the serpentine so should I be fine not removing my timing belt to fix the pump? its leaking. Also I know you should replace the timing chain+tensioner but I inspected the chain 400 miles ago its properly tensioned the belt is in good condition its a chain it will last the life of the car its not the cheap belts.: Are you forgetting to mention something? Ah! Year, Make and Model. Engine size is a plus ... only a fool who knows nothing will answer your question without knowing the at least needed to know information ... What do you mean: if my water pump is clearly on the serpentine belt I t need to replace the timing chain to get to it correct? You've said: Timing chain and yet, the first answer by You may be right said: If you can change the pump without removing the timing belt then go for it, you are lucky. See what has happened when the needed to know information were not specified? .. and how do you expect any of us to know the question you have mentioned before and could not read your history in YA? I've rest my case ...

Q: I have a 1.5 horse Power Hit and Miss engine? Is it possible to buy a water pump I could run off of the hit and miss engine that would pump water from a river over a big hill and little ways and into a water tank or is this just a waste of time. How much water could I pump at a time? A trickle or a gush of water? When I say hill I don't mean like a little hill in your yard I mean a hill you have to hike up? If you don't know are there any resources I could access? Where could I buy such a pump if there is one?: A horse and a half won't do much. You would be better off with a hydraulic ram type pump if you can get about a 10 or 15 foot fall before the ram. It will pump about 4 or 5 times the height of the fall, but in small quantities. It will run 24/7 without gasoline, so it will fill a tank over a long period of time. The railroads used them during the steam era when they had huge water towers out on the plains.

Q: I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat and the water pump seems to be leaking. The lower radiator hose has been replaced but it still leaks a fairly substantial amount. From what I can tell the pump is still doing its job but I'm losing coolant. Is there a way I can determine if i just need a new gasket or a new pump altogether without ripping the front end off? Any feedback is appreciated.: Replace the pump. While your at it, since the front end (actually the bumper cover) is off, get the timing belt done, with rollers, tensioner, thermostat, and G12 coolant.

Q: Can I use Ultra Blue gasket maker on a water pump? The packaging is not labeled high heat.: i could replace the gasket now particularly of attempting to recollect on end leak. reckoning on the place you reside, it somewhat is gonna get chilly authentic quickly. Wrenching in chilly climate sucks. And if the unique water pump has by no skill been replaced, you're able to think of approximately doing that while you have it aside, no count if it is not too costly for a clean/rebuilt pump. i be responsive to it could be in simple terms my success to take all of it aside, replace the gaskets, then have the water pump crap out 2 months later. DOH!

Q: Could it make coolant quot;Boilquot;? Ive heard myc ar's behavior is Normal, and most likely just heavy condenstaion as it DOES go away, also the behavior of the coolant and the tank.. but i DO know the Water Pump is quot;Weeping,or quot;Seeping,so i wonder what interaction that would have ont he Cooling side of the motor; what effects can it produce? What would i notice?My 1991 Calais 2.5L quot;Iron Duke,: Water pumps have a small weep hole that leaks coolant when the pump seal is bad. If the mechanic saw water leaking from that hole, that's how he knew the pump was bad. It's not a hard thing to replace, and it's cheap. They can do it in an hour for $50 - $70.

Q: i have a 99 Mitsubishi Eclipse and my Car started to leak water and as soon as i start to put water it starts to leak and it wont take in the water that has on the side as well. what should i do or what do you recommend?: you must stop driving the car.

Q: The pump works and water goes to the house from the reserve tanks but there can be long delays before it cuts in after mains pressure is lost. After it stops the pressure gauge falls back slowly to zero. Pressure vessel is a sphere has a valve on top. Any suggestions ?: The guage is probably broken, but that is mostly for reference for setting your start/stop switch. Now, first off I'd check your bladder tank. A bad bladder tank will still give you some pressure but causes the pump to run almost constantly. To test that, there is a bicycle looking air valve sticking out of the bladder tank. Push a key or something in it as if you were to let air out of a tire. If any water comes out, your bladder is bad and has to be replaced. If you have an older style deep well, like a well house where the pump is accessible, check the switch, (little black box attached to the pump). There are two screws that can be turned. One sets the pressure the pump will turn off at and the other adjusts the minimum pressure you want for the water to turn back on and fill your tank. A lot of people go 20/40, I run mine at 30/50. Much more than that and you can run into problems, especially if you have cpvc pipes. They will weaken at the elbows and 60 psi of water can eventually make pin hole leaks. This is from personal experience. You will need a working gauge to set this. If the bladder is not your problem, email me and I'll give you more details on how to set your pump if you need it. Or, you can buy preset switches at your local hardware for $20 and just swap it out. In that case, do not mess with the adjustment screws.

Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?: The first thing I was taught on Volvo water pumps was to use NO sealer. Get yourself a new gasket.Make sure the block is clean. Install the gasket on the two studs. Grease the heater pipe o-ring after installing on the pipe. Grease the hole it fits into. Install the top seal on the water pump and coat the surface with grease. Install the pump on the block and make sure the pipe has entered the pump. Tighten the two nuts until the pump is almost contacting the block but still moves easily. Insert a smaller Phillips head screwdriver into the bottom bolt hole of the pump and into the block. Lift the pump ,using the screwdriver ,until you can start the top bolt.Then use the screwdriver to wiggle the pump to start the left side bolt. Once you have started those two bolts,the bottom one will go right in. Tighten it all up and install the heater pipe bolt and you are done.

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