• Rotary Progressive Cavity Monoblock Single Screw Pumps System 1
  • Rotary Progressive Cavity Monoblock Single Screw Pumps System 2
  • Rotary Progressive Cavity Monoblock Single Screw Pumps System 3
Rotary Progressive Cavity Monoblock Single Screw Pumps

Rotary Progressive Cavity Monoblock Single Screw Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
100 unit/month

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Product Series of Rotary Progressive Cavity Monoblock Single Screw Pumps

  ◆ XG 1/2 standard series  Used for various structures
  ◆ XL 1/2long lead series  Used for low pressure and large flow rate conveying
  ◆ XT 2/3standard lead series  Suitable for high-efficiency conveying of medium and large pump
  ◆ XC 2/3long lead series  Suitable for low pressure, large flow rate and high-efficiency conveying of medium and large pump
  ◆ XP Spraying pump series  Used for slurry spraying in front of the coal water slurry boiler

 

 

 

 

 

 

Features of Positive Cavity Screw Pumps for Sewage Sludge and Polymer

  •  Wide application, it can be used for conveying of flowing materials, even non-flowing materials

  • Continuous conveying, small pulsating quantity

  • The media is not stirred in the pump and is free from squeezing and cutting

  • The flow is in direct proportion to the rotating speed, variable output, measurement feeding

  • Elastic stator, certain abrasion resistance

 

Conveying Medium of Positive Cavity Screw Pumps for Sewage Sludge and Polymer

  • Various viscous media (the highest viscosity reaches 106 mm2/s)

  • Fluids with various concentrations and dewatered and dried materials

  • The media containing solid particles, fibers and suspended solids

 

Horizontal Direct Linking of Positive Cavity Screw Pumps for Sewage Sludge and Polymer

  • Features: It is directly driven by gear motor, compact structure, short length of the pump

  • Parameters: 600m³/h; maximum pressure: 2.4MPa or higher

 

 

FAQ

  • Are your pumps protected against dry running?

    No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

  • How can I get trained on CNBM products?

    Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

  • Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

    CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

 

 Rotary Progressive Cavity Monoblock Single Screw Pumps

Q: I have a 2005 Impala and it has been acting funny. Some morning the heat takes about 20 minutes to start working. The air conditoner has not came on once. The gage also takes awhile to start working and when it does it goes pass the halfway mark.I even notice when im sitting at a red light, i can feel the engine shaking a little. I have a appt to get it check and put on the machine tomorrow. I just want to go there with an idea of what the problem could be. Could this be a thermostat or water pump problem???? Help?
thermostat
Q: Water pumps are always pumping water, what's the matter?
Cause analysis of water pump without waterThere is air in the inlet pipe and pump body(1) before the water pump is started, the water is not filled enough. Sometimes it seems that the water has been discharged from the vent hole, but the pump shaft is not rotated. The air is completely discharged, resulting in a small amount of air remaining in the inlet pipe or pump body.(2) in contact with the water pump inlet of the horizontal application of reverse flow direction, fell more than 0.5% slope, connect one end of the highest import pumps, do not completely level. If the upward tilt, the intake pipe will retain air, reducing the water pipes and pumps in the vacuum, water absorption.(3) pump packing has been used for long-term wear or packing pressed too loose, discharge gap caused by the large amounts of water from filling with the shaft sleeve, the external air gap into the pump from the inside, affected the water.(4) because of the long latent water and the corrosion of the pipe wall, the water inlet of the water inlet is constantly dropping. When the holes appear above the water, the air enters the water inlet pipe from the hole.(5) there is a crack at the bend of the inlet pipe, and there is a small gap between the inlet pipe and the water pump, which may cause the air to enter the inlet pipe.
Q: We have just replced our hot water heater in our camper. When we turn on the water pump we hear it kick on and run. When we turn on a faucet water comes out then slowly goes away untill nothing comes out at all. It has been a year since we used the water tank, so its been full of air. The camper is pretty old, i dont know the specific date though. Could it be low water pressur? any help would be greatly appreciated.
Can't you hook the garden hose directly to the camper? That way you could see if there is air in the line or if the pump is tired and needs to be replaced.
Q: can't get the pulleys to line up I know I have a mid 70's 400 and the water pump is later than 1969 but I can't find a pulley that works every one is about a half inch off I bought a aftermarket set of underdrive pulley's from march performance and still the same problem the water pump is a half inch off there was no long or short water pump right they are all the same lenght right??? The only difference I know of is that pre 1968 the pumps have a 8 bolt design and after they have a 11 bolt design is that right???
Actually there was two main pumps for the older ones,, one was called a short shaft,,and one was called a long shaft,,the long shaft was the most popular,and it all depends on whether your car had power steering,,and air conditioning on it,,all the ones that used the long shaft usually had air,,and power steering on them also,,also some of them had a smog pump on them,,this was the main reason they used the long shaft,,most of the smog pumps got taken off and discarded down through the years,,but you still had to use the pump that had the long shaft,,this is the problem your having,,i own a repair shop in Tennessee,,and have been redoing some old cars in the past few years i to have run across the same problem you are having,,you can have a long shaft ordered for you ,,and it will work fine,,i had to use the long shaft on the one i was redoing hope this helps some.
Q: I have a big garden ,I have plant all kinds of flowers,including roses,Chrysanthemum,but everyday i have to water them one after one pot,a little waste time and waste my energy.who can help me ?tks
You can get automatic sprayers from the large home and garden stores which will spray over a given area on a set time...somewhat like a sprinkler.
Q: How hard is it change a 1993 subaru imprezza water pump
www.okorder /... Difficulty is dependent on how comfortable you are with doing the above.
Q: I had a re-manufactured water pump installed and after 14 months I started smelling my radiator occasionally. Never suspected the pump since my original pump lasted 60,000 miles and was still fine when they replaced it feigning quot;it is customary to replace water pump with timing beltwhen in actuality my Hyundai Elantra just needs the pump checked every 60,000 miles. The re-manufactured water pump was diagnosed leaking for sure after 20 months. Anyway I believe the leaking pump which didn't get discovered for at least 4 to 6 months caused the early demise of my radiator. Does that make sense?Thanks,Mitzi
No, but if the leaking water pump was leaking for that long, and you didn't check the coolant level, you probably ran out of coolant, overheated the engine and damaged more than just your radiator. The mechanics weren't feigning anything, they were trying to save you money in the long run, but you don't know enough about engines to realize this, so you blame the mechanic. In your case, if being a mechanic is so easy, you should do the work yourself.
Q: I am having water shortage problems and wonder if there is more I can do to maintain the health of my pump motor , pressure switch , and diaphram tank , if I run one outlet in or out of house , it only takes another spigot being used or a toilet flush to cause the system to run dry .I then have to reprime pump to have water or pump will run dry until it overheats ,
The okorder /
Q: I am trying to replace a water pump on my ranger and i have all the bolts out. It seems to be stuck i think it is because of the oring around the outside of the pump andy ideas of how to free it?
The heater middle is placed on the passenger area on the firewall. From the water pump there will be 2 small traces going into the black container on the firewall. The heater middle is interior the container. you will have a foul radiator hose. that's the greater value-effective restoration.If it became the water pump, your automobile could over warmth in minutes. the warmth interior the automobile would desire to be from a vent door caught open interior the heater container.
Q: what could cause a impeller on a water pump to be completly shredded up i just had to change mine in my toyota camry and was wondering if i could do anything to prevent this from happening again?
I have seen this once before, the impeller was so old and corroded that it partially separated from the bearing or shaft on which it spins, and came into contact with the pump housing. No fault of yours, just replace the water pump with a new one.

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