Rotary Progressive Cavity Monoblock Single Screw Pumps
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
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Product Series of Rotary Progressive Cavity Monoblock Single Screw Pumps
◆ XG 1/2 standard series Used for various structures
◆ XL 1/2long lead series Used for low pressure and large flow rate conveying
◆ XT 2/3standard lead series Suitable for high-efficiency conveying of medium and large pump
◆ XC 2/3long lead series Suitable for low pressure, large flow rate and high-efficiency conveying of medium and large pump
◆ XP Spraying pump series Used for slurry spraying in front of the coal water slurry boiler 
Features of Positive Cavity Screw Pumps for Sewage Sludge and Polymer
Wide application, it can be used for conveying of flowing materials, even non-flowing materials
Continuous conveying, small pulsating quantity
The media is not stirred in the pump and is free from squeezing and cutting
The flow is in direct proportion to the rotating speed, variable output, measurement feeding
Elastic stator, certain abrasion resistance
Conveying Medium of Positive Cavity Screw Pumps for Sewage Sludge and Polymer
Various viscous media (the highest viscosity reaches 106 mm2/s)
Fluids with various concentrations and dewatered and dried materials
The media containing solid particles, fibers and suspended solids
Horizontal Direct Linking of Positive Cavity Screw Pumps for Sewage Sludge and Polymer
Features: It is directly driven by gear motor, compact structure, short length of the pump
Parameters: 600m³/h; maximum pressure: 2.4MPa or higher
FAQ
Are your pumps protected against dry running?
No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.
How can I get trained on CNBM products?
Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.
Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?
CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.
- Q: A Honda timing belt is suppose to be replaced every 90,000 miles but is it necessary to replace the water pump at the same time? How long will a water pump last? I never had a water pump fail on any Honda I have owned. Of course that is probably because I always had it replaced with the timing belt?
- Its not necessary but still you should replace both at regular intervals as prevention is better than cure, To know more, you can call at (204) 275-9256 or visit the link:
- Q: Today I was installing a new water pump on my 1999 grand Prix. When tightening the bolts one of them snapped off. Now the pump leaks from that broken bolt. I was wondering if I would be able to stop the leak using some sort of sealant or would I have to take the car in to get the bolt removed?
- Putting sealant on it might stop it from leaking for a while, but that's not a good fix. If you seal it up and it doesn't work, it could end up being a huge repair. In addition, what if a temp fix leaks profusely at the worse time. The best thing is to take it apart and fix it right.
- Q: How do I tell the difference between a long and a short water pump? I have a Chevy 350 V8, a crate motor the same size is going in very soon. How do I tell which one I have so that I can get the correct brackets, accessories, etc.?
- Dude's lengths are incorrect.. The short pump is 5-5/8'' long and the long neck pump is 7'' long . That's with a V belt short block chevy....
- Q: I keep having to add water to. Doesn't do anything when it's sitting up. But after you drive it straight for about 25 minutes. Time to add some more water. I figure it's the water pump. It's not leaking anywhere so it has to be a failing water pump. Oil still looks good, no smoking. AC and heater blows fine. Just runs hot after a while. I need another opinion. Its the 4 cylinder also. And yes it does be steaming. Tired of having to add water everyday.
- Forget the check this and try that stuff. You need a RADIATOR SHOP the radiator is plugged and you can do nothing to clean it. Don't waste time on flushing as it is a waste. Water pumps have mechanical seals and require no lubrication and anti freeze contains no lubrication material. Plain water will not affect the pump. Never replace any part 'till you KNOW the problem
- Q: Any ideas on where and what type of water pump I should use for my 29 Gallon BioCube tank? It seems that the water pump is very loud and is not working the way it should. There are bubbles shooting the aquarium and I have tried everything to fix it. I am thinking of replacing the water pump all together. Any ideas on brands that would be compatible? Anyone else tried this? Please help...
- ok before replacing have you cleaned the inside, and if there are air bubbles comming out it is because it is running dry. Basically all biocubes do this, the filter pad is slowing down the water too much, so either rince it well or replace it. Also i would wash out the blue sponge right before the pump as that can hold alot of dirt as well. Then if not add more water. But if you want to replace the pump, try via aqua water pumps. they tend to be the best. owner of the BC 29 and BC 14
- Q: I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!
- That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.
- Q: I have just replaced the timing belts on my 94 Civic Si and my 00 Elantra GLS. Both were done at different shops, but i got the same hounding to replace the water pump when doing the belt. My Elantra has 66k and my Civic 85k and i know how important the timing belt is-especially with a negative clearance engine like the VTEC. previously, i've never been told to replace the waterpump with the timing belt til now. is this just a ruse to extort more money out of me, or is there some validity in what the guy behind the counter is saying??
- In these vehicles, the water pumps are located behind the timing belt. Remember that the MOST EXPENSIVE item on the timing belt replacement is the labor to do so. This being said, the shop is recommending the replace of the water pump you are already footing the bill for the LABOR to replace the belt and you want have that cost if/when the water pump goes out. Here's and example, let's say the timing belt replacement on your car came to a total of $250. The belt itself only cost $15 to $20, leaving the rest of the cost in associated gaskets and labor. If you don't replace the water pump and it fails, this time your cost will $300 with the difference in price being ONLY the difference in cost for the water pump and timing belt. It's not an absolute necessity to replace the WP when doing the TB, it is just a good idea! If your keeping the cars... change the WP... if not.. just the TB and sell it! Good luck and I hope this answers the question!
- Q: My car is overheating and i don't know why just trying to rule out as many options as possible.Things it is most likely not: blown gasket/cracked head, both replaced 2 years ago and no tell tale signs I will be doing a block test soon, thermostat replaced it and put the old one in hot water and it opened, hoses replaced with new one two years ago, no leaks pressure test a few days ago. Things yet to be ruled out The radiator being clogged or not allowing good airflow, water pump impeller failure.
- water pump is driven by the serpentine belt. if your belt is slipping then it wont run your water pump, so you could try getting another belt for like 20 bucks at an auto store. the heater is run electrically. well more importantly by a 'blower motor'. it could even be the blower motor resistor, they are connected to the blower motor, and usually have green tape on them. most likely it is going to be the water pump from what you have described
- Q: I have a leak and all the hoses are fine but I am not sure were the water pump is also has anyone had this repaired and what did it cost (part plus labor) in general is it hard to get to? Thanks in advance
- 1995 Chrysler Concorde Parts
- Q: i need to change my water pump on my vw 1990 gti. the more details and/or pictures the better or links i can go to to show me
- The 1990 4 cylinder was before they ran the pump off the timing belt, so it is still V-belt driven, and it is not necessary to touch the timing belt. Since it is belt driven, you should expect it to be near the passenger side of the engine, but it actually bolts to the front of the engine, near the bottom. In the linked image, they have included the housing, which you see bolts to the side of the block with an O ring seal. It is recommended you remove this housing, so that you can more easily get at all the small bolts holding the water pump to the housing. But there is no reason not to reuse the old housing. This also has the thermostat in it, so replace that at the same time. You may be able to leave the hoses attached if you are working on a lift, from below. The power steering pump may be in the way and need to be lowered. Take the passenger side wheel off. If you have to get at it from the top, it may be much harder, because the AC mounting plate would need to be removed and the head gets in the way, but also possible. Set aside a whole day, just to make sure you have enough time to finish if this is your first one. But you could probably do it a second time in about 3 hours.
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Rotary Progressive Cavity Monoblock Single Screw Pumps
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 100 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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