• Non-Suction Pressure Water Supply Equipment System 1
  • Non-Suction Pressure Water Supply Equipment System 2
  • Non-Suction Pressure Water Supply Equipment System 3
Non-Suction Pressure Water Supply Equipment

Non-Suction Pressure Water Supply Equipment

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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Non-suction pressure water supply equipment

Features of Non-Suction Pressure Water Supply Equipment 

1) No need of water pool,saving both fund and energy

2) Simple installation and less land used

3) Extensive purpose and strong suitable

4) Full functions and high degree in intelligence

5) Advance product and reliable quality

6) Personalized design,showing a distinctive style


Applications of Non-Suction Pressure Water Supply Equipment 

1) Water supply for city life

2) Fire-fighting system

3) Agricultural irrigation

4) Sprinkling & musical foundation


Technical Date of Non-Suction Pressure Water Supply Equipment 

1) Ambient temperature 5~40oC

2) Relative humidity no higher than 85oC(20+/-5)oC

3) Liquid temperature 5-70oC

4) Service voltage 380V (+5%,-10%)


FAQ

Q: Are your pumps acid-proofed?

A: To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

Q: How can I get trained on CNBM products?

A: Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

Q: Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

A: CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

Q: Do you have self-priming pumps?

A: Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.


Non-Suction Pressure Water Supply Equipment

Q: Water pumps are always pumping water, what's the matter?
Is the self-priming pump, not the self-priming pump, the actual suction is too large?How much is the water pump voltage?Inlet pipe leak
Q: I'm doing a DCP project which is at its concept design stage.In order to estimate the chilled water pump size and ratings roughly, could anybody give me some tips on the average/normal chilled water pump heads for a typical 10000 TR DCP. The length of the longest loop could be around 600 m single run.
to boot to the availability and go back line, if there are different factors in the equipment at the same time with administration valves and warmth exchangers, their rigidity drop also desires to be protected.
Q: The leak is in the same area as my water pump, but when I jacked my car up yesterday, I wasn't able see my water pump. It's a 99 Saturn SL1.With the leak, it leaks very slowly, and it only leaks about a few ounces of fluid at a time. It mostly only leaks when I start the engine while its cooled down, and it's leaking down the passenger side of my engine.If it was a bad water pump, would the antifreeze leak without stopping until all of the antifreeze is gone?
So what are you saying, if it is not the water pump your not going to fix it? Find the leak weather you can't see the water pump or not and fix it or just let it leak and ruin the engine, it doesn't matter to me.
Q: I replaced the water pump on my 1997 acura cl 3.0 v6 vtec. I set the timing how alldata said to. (Lined up marks on timing drive pulley and both cam pulleys) and put it all back together. Now when I start it the motor runs rough for about 45 seconds then it smooths out but won't rev past 3000 rpm. What are some possibilites it could be?
looks like the force belt broke, or is slipping. The force belt connects the engine to numerous aspects, like your alternator which rates your battery, the water pump, which pushes the coolant around the engine and radiator to relax the engine, and your skill guidance pump, which pressurizes the hydraulic fluid to your skill guidance. do no longer force the motor vehicle back till you fix it. you're able to desire to heavily blow out the motor by using over heating it.
Q: i took off the lower unit to fix the gears. im not sure ill be able to put it back on with out knowing how things work in there.so how exactly does the water get pumped. and what does it have to do with the gears, because even though the prop wasn't turning, the water was still pumping.thanks.
The driveshaft is always turning. A pinion gear at the bottom of the driveshaft spins the forward and reverse gears, which are freewheeling (in opposite directions) on the prop shaft. The clutch dog is splined and/or pinned to the propshaft, and moved forward (to mesh with the forward gear) or aft (to mesh with the reverse gear) by the clutch dog cradle, which is moved by the up or down motion of the shift rod. The backside of the forward reverse gears are machined with square corners that mesh with the clutch dog. So, the engine turns the driveshaft, the driveshaft turns the gears, the gears turn the clutchdog, and the dog turns the propshaft. Meanwhile, as mentioned, the drive shaft, which is always spinning, is also the water pump shaft. The water pump has a neoprene impeller in a chromed housing; a very tight fit -- the vanes have to be bent over to fit. The center of the housing is offset from the shaft, so the compartments where water is drawn in get smaller as they rotate toward the discharge, which provides enough water pressure to force water through the engine even at idle speed. The impeller is fit so tightly into the housing, that it will generate enough heat to melt and break up without a source of water -- it only takes about 30 seconds of dry running to seriously damage the impeller. to fix the gears, you have to use a gear puller to pull the propshaft bearing carrier. The reverse gear will fall out. Reach in with a long box-end wrench to remove the pinion gear from the driveshaft, and pull the driveshaft bearing housing out with the driveshaft. When you remove the shift rod, the prop shaft, forward gear, clutch dog etc should be accessible. There's a lot of complicated steps to accomplish each of the above, and some critical measurements with near-zero tolerance. Don't do it without a factory service manual in hand.
Q: I'm going to be purchasing a laboratory distillation kit here pretty soon, the kit includes everything I need for the setup but the condenser requires a water pump to circulate cold water around the coils. What kind of pump would you recommend for this purpose?
A small centrifugal pump that has the flowrate designated by the condenser manufacturer. I assume it has a heat exchanger of some type to reject the heat to the air and that would need a designate flow. Anyway, look in any lab supply catalog or web site and they will have many small pumps. You do not need to carefully control the flowrate, so stay away from metering or peristaltic pumps. The pumps may even be made of plastic, that is fine for this application. In my lab, we would just run the water from the tap through the glass condenser and let it drain out to waste. It is wasteful of water, but it sure was much cheaper than buying a pump and heat exchanger.
Q: What is a 1 inch water pump?
The caliber of the water inlet and outlet pipe is 1 inches of water pump,
Q: I have a 1998 ford taurus. It started to over heat so i turned on the heater full blast and it didn't get hot. so i put antifreeze in it and i turned it on and it seemed ok but it started to over heat again and the tank for the antifreeze looked like the cap was going to pop off. I was just down the road from my house so i thought if i drove slow i could make it home and it turned on ok but when i put it in drive it stalled. Does this mean its the water pump??????
If your water pump goes bad it leaks. A Lot. You can watch the water pour out from under your car like an open faucet, car running or off. If you are having cooling issues and must get home or to the shop slowing down will only make it worse. Your radiator is designed to use moving airflow to cool the water system. Even if you have little water in your radiator the air will help cool everything under the hood... to an extent. Between 50 and 60 are the best speeds for cars low on water. Trust me. If you're not seeing any leaking water then it could be one of these reasons: Radiator clogged. Thermostat bad. Head gasket.
Q: I have a Honda Accord, and last week I replaced the Radiotor, due to a leak. This week the Water pump broke, it was making a ver loud noise and major leak, when I opened the rad, basically all the fluid was drained.Do you think the two are related? or do you think when the Rad was replaced it was not done properly which caused the water pump to break?Thanks.
The only way they are related is that they both have coolant circulating through them...frankly it is unlikely the replaced radiator had anything to do with it, but if you found the leaking radiator when the steam started curling up from under your hood, then it is possible that gave the water pump that extra reason to fail.. bable really.
Q: Hey for the past month my car has been leaking coolant, making a wierd noise when i drive it, and saying low coolant when its filled to the top.my husband took it out to get gas this morning and it stopped on him and had to be towed to the mechanicthe mechanic said its the water pump and somethin about anti freeze and this cost almost 300 bucks with parts and laborim just wanting to know if a water pump does indeed cause issues like this before we dish out this kinda money!!! btw its a 96 chevy luminathanks
Yes, when a water pump starts going bad it leaks antifreeze, and if you have low antifreeze engine will get hot and lock up. You'll be lucky if you didn't screw up the bearings(or any thing else). The low coolant light comes on when the water pump quites pumping too. If the car still doesn't turn over after it has cooled down, then the engine is toast.

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