Non Negative Pressure Water Supply Equipment
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
You Might Also Like
Non Negative Pressure Water Supply Equipment
Product Description
WFYGS no negative pressure booster steady flow water supply equipment can take the place of reservoir, which can make full use of tap water pipe network pressure water supply or water relay directly, to avoid the secondary pollution and energy waste, greatly saves the infrastructure investment and shorten the construction period. It is composed of frequency conversion control cabinet, instrument, steady flow tank, pump, valve, base and connection pipe, etc, applies to a tap water pipe network, need to increase the water pressure, constant liu to the water supply system.
Product features:
1. Section, energy conservation significantly
2. Simple and practical
3. Easy installation, management
4. Functions, safety
5. Advanced and reliable in quality
6. Configuration, unique
Environmental conditions:
1.The environment temperat : 5-40°c
2.Air relative humidity :≤85%
3.Meduim temperature: 4-70°c
4.Supply voltage:380v
Technology Parameters:
Flow:6-3000m3/h;
Lift head:30-200m
Working pressure :0-2.7MPa;
Temperature range:≤80°C;
- Q: I do pump sales ~ only to enter the line soon ~ often asked how many levels of motor? I can't recognize myself! So ask for advice here
- With 3000 of the rated speed divided by motor, motor poles after rounding.The number of poles is two times the number of poles.
- Q: I need a 12v water pump capable of at least 40psi. The only website that i found is one where you have to order a minimum of 100.
- Look for sites that sell camping and RV supplies. It is common for a RV to have this kind of pump. You might look into sailboat supplies. An ocean going sailboat will have a pump much like a RV. Why do you need 40 PSI? 40 PSI will raise a column of water about 100 feet. Why do you need such high pressure? Most houses only have 15 to 20 PSI water pressure from a city main, half of what you say you need. A well pump can raise water several hundred feet to lift water to the surface and an additional 30 feet to provide 15 PSI in the water system of the house.
- Q: i replace all the seals on the water pump reinstalled it and the same thing happened... it leaks out the bottom some where and run down the water pump and down the hot side radiator hose... any ideas?
- you reinstalled the old pump? most water pump area leaks are the water pump itself. it will have a small hole located near where the lower hose hooks up, that hole is called the weep hole. when a pump begins failing it begins weeping. a water pump for that vehicle is only about $30. so cheap you should never even think of reusing the old pump if you remove it for any reason. you'll need to replace teh gasket, again, and you'll want to use blue rtv high temp silicone lightly on the gasket.
- Q: I want to buy a tree spraying rig for my property but would like to know its theoretical capabilities first. The rig has a gas powered diaphragm pump capable of delivering 20 GPM @ a maximum pressure of 300 psi. The hose coming from the pump is 150' long and is 0.75in diameter. It has a solid stream nozzle that measures 0.1875in diameter. What would the maximum theoretical elevation that this setup could deliver a steady stream of water? The nozzle would be aimed at between 45 and 60 degrees from horizontal.
- well water exerts about 1 atm pressure (15psi) for each 33 feet of depth so 300psi is about 10 atm meaning that your pump could support a column some 330ft high then figure what pressure you would need to make your spray effective and subtract 33ft per 15psi this is only a ballpark estimate losses in hoses will be significant
- Q: does anyone know the proper way to take the lower gearcase off and install a new water pump kit. it is a 1986.
- This is a simple repair but I'd recommend that you get a service manual, ether a factory manual or one of the generic Seloc manuals. The key things to do are mark the trim tab so you can put it back in the same position after repairs. Drain the oil. Removing the bolt that is in the hole at the back end of the upper housing, as well as all the obvious Nuts. both above and under the cavitation plate. Put the drive in forward gear, which takes the tension off the shift shaft. Once all the nuts and bolt are loose. Jiggle the drive and it will separate from the upper housing. You now have access to the water pump housing. Remove the housing and pull it up and off the d. Shaft. Inspect fully and account for missing impeller blades. When you re assemble Lube the impeller and put the drive key in place and put the impeller in place. Slide the housing down to the impeller. You can use ether th drive shaft or the propeller to turn the drive shaft in a clockwise direction as you apply pressure on the housing, It should slide down over the impeller. Reassemble in reverse order. Slide the drive shaft up into the upper housing turning the D. shaft using the prop to turn the shaft. Watch the water tube slip into the guide tube. Once it's in place put a couple nuts on then check the gear shift to make sure it goes F-N-R. Bolt up and fill with oil. Good Luck!
- Q: i started backing out of my garage and something sounded like it poped then lots of steam started coming out and water was on the ground on the right side of the car non on the left and the water pump needle in my car is all the way to the red can some one help me
- everytime you spill on your computing gadget you need to right this moment turn it off, unplug it, take out the battery and permit it dry for each week. reckoning on how your computing gadget is outfitted you are going to be waiting to get rid of the keyboard without entering your computing gadget. in case you're able to do it, i could recommend that. If no longer, in basic terms depart them be.
- Q: I keep having to add water to. Doesn't do anything when it's sitting up. But after you drive it straight for about 25 minutes. Time to add some more water. I figure it's the water pump. It's not leaking anywhere so it has to be a failing water pump. Oil still looks good, no smoking. AC and heater blows fine. Just runs hot after a while. I need another opinion. Its the 4 cylinder also. And yes it does be steaming. Tired of having to add water everyday.
- The water pump seal will go bad if it isn't already because you are adding plain water to the cooling system! Antifreeze has a rust inhibitor and a lubricant in it and if you don't have the correct strength mix the inside of the block rusts and then the heater core and the radiator get plugged up resulting in hundreds of dollars in repairs. The water pump if leaking will drip on the passenger side from under the timing belt cover if you let the motor idle for 5 to 10 minutes. Look for the drips on the inside of the RF tire. If the water pump is leaking the timing belt will jump and bend all the valves.
- Q: I have a 2000 A4 1.8 T with 91 k miles on it. I went to the dealer for my oil service. I told them that I hear a quot;clinkingnoise when I start the car and that it goes away after the car runs for 5 minutes. I told them to check this also. They diagnosed and said that the water pump has gone bad and needs to be replaced. Since it was close to 105 K miles, I might as well change the timing belt. Total charges for both is 1250. And they also see that Cam Seals starting to leak oil. Since I was doing the timing belt, I might as well change them too. Additional cost to do them is 950. So the total for all three comes down to 2200. I bought the car at 90 K and checked it at Firestone and they said it was cool. They noticed an oil leak but said it was not anything major that needs to be taken care of right away. Do you think the dealer is taking me for a ride here? I just drove 500 miles and would things go this bad all of a sudden? Or should I make the replacements? Please advise.
- I also own an 2000 Audi A1 1.8T. I am also currently researching the same problem. It turns out that 2000 Audi (up untill 05/2000) the water pump is on the OUTSIDE and not driven by timing belt. So they can and should be changed independantly. So you should check to see if the timing belt was changed already and how many miles on it (change the timing belt about once every 60K miles to be safe). The engine codes (that has water pump on the outside) are: AEB / ATW (150HP engine). The engine code AWM (05/00 and onward) has water pump driven by timing belt and should probably always be changed together. I think these are the more powerful 170 / 180 HP engine. My Audi dealer (Beiner Audi of L.I. NYC) did NOT tell me this. They wanted to squeeze in an unnecessary additional $400 unnecessary repair for the water pump along with the over priced timing belt replacement. The Audis maybe driven by upscale market, but the dealers are still no better than the old used car salesmen. Good luck, Jong P.S. Get yourself a factory Audi service manual (I own a Bently publishing manual and Chilton VW/Audi manual). Do your own research. It's saving me tons of money. P.P.S Also, always use full synthetic motor oil if you want to avoid the engine sludge problem. Turbo engines are prone to engine sludge. Funny how model year 2000 A4 was NOT recommended synthetic oil (till recently). Could it be that back then THEY had to pay for the oil change and now all 2000 A4 are no long under bumper-to-bumper warrantee (and the more expensive synthetic oil are no longer their cost)??
- Q: Could my problem be greater than a water pump or thermostat?
- Well first of all thermostates don't make leaks, -- unless they don't open, in which case boiling makes water run out! And of course it could be waterpump, it could also be radiator hoses, and radiator itself, as well as heater hoses, and heater core! In extreme case it could even be head gasket going bad! (But defiantely it will be under the hood!) You just have to check things out an see where it is coming from! Waterpump has a weep hole underneath main housing, -- if it is dripping from there,- the seal in WP is bad. But rest of things should be easy to see if you look carefully! If you have very much water leaking get it fixed quickly, and keep it full, and watch temperature carefully, if it starts overheating shut down engine quickly! If you drive overheated you WILL blow head gasket, and if going even further- too hot, it will expire engine! This is very expensive!
- Q: Here are specifications for two water pump sets. I would like to know which one will have more vertical suction.Pump 1:1.5 hp, 98cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Fuel, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 50m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 1.5x1.5 inches, Output Capacity 48000 Litres / Hour.Pump 2:3.3hp, 163 cc Engine, 4 - Strokes RPM 3600 (Engine RPM), Petrol Start amp; Kerosene Run, Fuel Consumption 700 ml/hour, Delivery (horizontal) 26m, Inlet / Outlet Port (Dia) 2x2 inches Output Capacity 36000 Litres / Hour.which one should I go for.
- there is no way to tell from those numbers which one has more suction lift capacity. You would need the pump curves and see what the NPSHR is for each pump.
Send your message to us
Non Negative Pressure Water Supply Equipment
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
Similar products
Hot products
Hot Searches
Related keywords
