Water Supply Equipment

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<1>Features

1)No need of water pool, saving both fund and energy

2)Simple installation and less used

3)Extensive purpose and strong suitable

4)Full functions and high degree in intelligence

5)Advance product and reliable quality

6)Personalized design, showing a distinctive style

<2>Applications

1)Water supply for city life

2)Fire-fighting system

3)Agricultural irrigation

4)Prinkling & musical foudation

<3>Technical Data

1)Ambient temperature 5~40º C

2)Relative humidity no higher than 85. C(20+/-5) º C

3)Liquid temperature 5~70º C

4)Service voltage 380V(+5%, -10%)

<4>Working Principle

When the equipment is put into movement, the water from the tap-water pipe-net flows into the flow stabilizing can. When the water supply capacity of the pipe-net can meet with the demand of use, the pressure of it is kept with the normal water supply range, the negative-pressure preventing module controlled electric valve is opened and the pump moves to carry out the pressure-overlapped water supply; While the said capacity can not meet with the demand, the pipe-net pressure is lower than that for normal water supply, the said module automatically adjusts the opening of the electric valve till its being closed, at this time water supply by the flow stabilizing can is automatically switched in. The vacuum eliminator on the said can is opened therewith, preventing a negative pressure from being produced inside of the can.

Q:can this happen that pump is pressurizing system and no flow in suction.: the answer is YES..but NOT from the PUMP..the type of pump most people have requires that flow through the impeller be available at all times or two things will happen !. it will cavitate (that's a gurgling sound at the pump) or 2. It will only beat the water that is in the pump and no flow will be apparent. Either one of these though could be a symptom of a plugged hot water line in the loop. Here is what happens to increase the pressure apparent.. The water on the loop is pressurized from the storage tank to the pump then out to the loop .If the loop is terminated and air gets into the end of the line next to the restriction the outside water pressure is acting like a piston compressing the air that air reacts the same as it would in any compressor and can reach higher than normal operating conditions. If you will find the plug and install an expansion bladder in the highest part of your line your flow ,pressure and noise problems will stop...Good luck with the search...From the E

Q:There is no water at all! What can we do to troubleshoot this before calling a Plumber? This is the first time this has happened and we never had a well before. Please help (serious answers only): You can rule out the thermostat. If you have no water at all the thermostat has no control over water pressure. The water heater also has no control over water flow, other than what comes from the water heater to the faucet. If you have no water at all that would indicate one of two things. The pump isn't pumping or the well has gone dry. Hopefully it's the pump. Your best option is to call a plumber as much as you don't want to. On the pump is an on off switch that could possibly have shut off due to a power surge. You should be able to flip this switch and get things back to normal if that is the problem. Also, once when I had no water and didn't know what to do about it I called a friend who did. The problem was no more than a loose wire on the pump. Reconnecting the wire made all the difference and saved a huge plumber's bill. You might go online and with the name and serial number of the pump find the on off switch and any other description of any parts. Hope this helps.

Q:House has bad mains pressure, so previous owner installed a quot;Holding Tankwhich stores water from the mains, before pumping it into the house for the internal tanks.However, after some recent plumbing work when the mains was turned off, it's running a little weird. The pump seems to be constantly running, although at a very low level, and some times when the taps/fawcets are opened, they seems to be nothing for up to 30 seconds (only air), and then the water rushes out. Same thing for toilet/WC cisterns..Any advice/pointers appreciated.CheersJM: If you are using a standard well pump, then there should be a check valve in the pipe between the holding tank and the pump. In a well it will be a foot valve, but may also have been a simple check valve. The work on your mains may have introduced dirt into the valve and prevents if from sealing and maintaining the pressure in the system when the pump stops. Someone also suggested that the pressure tank (not the holding tank) associated with the pump has become water logged. If that is the case then a small volume of water coming out of the pressure tank will cause a large enough pressure change to keep the pump working. Last possibility, there has to be a sensor that determines that the level of the water in the holding tank is low and will turn on the mains supply and when the level gets high enough that the mains supply is turned off. This can be a pressure switch or a mercury switch similar to one with a sump pump, etc. So my suggestions are: Check to make sure that the holding tank is clean and there is no sediment in it. Check to make sure that the holding tank fills when the water level drops, (it appears to stop when it is full). If you do this next procedure, make sure that you know how to prime your pump. I would also turn off the hot water tank. If it is a foot valve, remove the foot valve by removing the clamp and then back wash it to clean out the dirt. If it is an in-line check valve then remove the pipe. between the pump and the holding tank and invert it, and run water through it to clean out any sediment, then replace the pipe. Drain the pressure tank, and if you can pump some air into it. Then make sure that everything is connected, prime the pump and turn it on. Make sure that everything is working, then at each tap, especially the hot water taps, turn them on and leave running until the water flows smoothly. When all of the air is out of the system then turn on the hot water tank.

Q:3 months ago I had to replace the water pump on my Jeep (for $600!!!). Now I have leaking again and they are telling me that I need a new radiator. I'm wondering how did they know I needed a water pump last time (it was leaking just like now) and not a new radiator like they're saying this time? I know nothing about anything, and I feel like I'm not informed enough to know what they're really doing. Is this common?: Could be both. The water pump may have been leaking. Did the leak stop after the work was done? If so then it was leaking. The radiator may just have lived out it's life. Corrosion will eventually cause these types of things. I don't know where you're located but $600 for a water pump is a rip off. Maybe you went to the dealer? If it's not under a warranty and you're not buying a new one the jeep does not belong at the dealership. I recently did my water pump on my 94. $100 including new hoses and about 45 minutes. So even parts mark up and $60 labor should have been about $210 or so. For the radiator they are about $150 again depending on where you are. See if you can get a 3 core. More cooling capacity almost the same price. If you're around Maryland e-mail me and I can help you do it yourself.

Q:It is known that it takes an hour to pump water, and also to know the head. How does the pump power need to be calculated? What's the formula?: A 15kw pump, know how to calculate the head pumping water for an hour (if the head is 10 meters)Lift: MFlow rate: kg / sec (general water pump is cubic / hour, if 10 cubic hour / hour: 2.7 kg / sec)Efficiency: average 60%15000/102*0.6=88 kilograms per second88/10=8.8 kg / sec8.8*3600=31680 kg / h=31.6 cubic / hour

Q:toyota prius 2002 inverter water pump where is located and how to replace and buy: Go okorder /

Q:What is the current of the pump when it is started?: Just started when the pump current is 2-3 times the rated current is normal, so, the power is greater than the pump motor, many small factories in order to survive, the small motor will cut corners, produces motor burning phenomenon, and pump failure caused by load current is increased, and the pump flow rate exceeds the rated flow is a super current. General large water pump is the first to start the water pump, and then open the outlet valve, is to solve the pump just started when the ultra current problems.After excluding pump fault flowmeter check flow is beyond the rated flow, the excess can pumpslittle off flow control valve to reduce the current problems above are not dismantle the motor current of the motor itself over to see how to judge whether the motor has fault.

Q:What are the commonly used tools for repairing water pumps? Mainly for civilian 220V submersible pumps, self-priming pumps. How much is the spare parts ready for use?: Because had done a mechanic, and relates to a pump, not including motor repair, commonly used tools: pliers, pliers, adjustable wrench, wrench, screwdriver, bench drill, multimeter, electric iron, Lamar, hammer, ruler, chisel. Commonly used parts: bearings, impellers, screws, terminals, lubricants and so on.

Q:the car is a 1973 Pontiac Lemans, 350 V8. Water pump needs to be replaced. It's obviously a mechanical pump that's in there now. I was thinking of getting something with more capacity (to start off) as I feel the car could do with a better cooling system (and I have to get a water pump anyways). I was thinking of getting an electrical pump as that would also free up a bit of power from the engine. From what I gather, by doing this it seems I need to switch to an electrical fan also. Is that the case? Any advice/opinions on electrical systems and set ups? Any recommendations?Thanks in advance to anyone who answers. Much appreciated.: The okorder / Of course, when you are doing this work you want to replace the thermostat, and back flush the rest of the cooling system!

Q:Hey all--I just paid $900 at the Volkswagen dealership to get my timing belt, water pump, rollers, and air pump replaced. Is that a good deal? Also, how does the timing belt replacement relate to performance? I noticed my car was a little faster than before (maybe it's because I was driving another car for 2 days).: It is a VW, so 900 sounds about right. I would've done it myself though, but that's just me. The belt/pump replacement will not change your performance.

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