Water Supply Equipment

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<1>Features

1)No need of water pool, saving both fund and energy

2)Simple installation and less used

3)Extensive purpose and strong suitable

4)Full functions and high degree in intelligence

5)Advance product and reliable quality

6)Personalized design, showing a distinctive style

<2>Applications

1)Water supply for city life

2)Fire-fighting system

3)Agricultural irrigation

4)Prinkling & musical foudation

<3>Technical Data

1)Ambient temperature 5~40º C

2)Relative humidity no higher than 85. C(20+/-5) º C

3)Liquid temperature 5~70º C

4)Service voltage 380V(+5%, -10%)

<4>Working Principle

When the equipment is put into movement, the water from the tap-water pipe-net flows into the flow stabilizing can. When the water supply capacity of the pipe-net can meet with the demand of use, the pressure of it is kept with the normal water supply range, the negative-pressure preventing module controlled electric valve is opened and the pump moves to carry out the pressure-overlapped water supply; While the said capacity can not meet with the demand, the pipe-net pressure is lower than that for normal water supply, the said module automatically adjusts the opening of the electric valve till its being closed, at this time water supply by the flow stabilizing can is automatically switched in. The vacuum eliminator on the said can is opened therewith, preventing a negative pressure from being produced inside of the can.

Q: I think the water pump is going out in my truck can I still drive it short distance if I put water in it first?: Just make sure ur truck dont run hot. What I would/have done is put water in it then while u drive if the temp starts goin up pull over.

Q: yesterday the electric went out for a while we had some big storms and now the water doesnt work, the pump is running but there is no water coming out, i need help on how to fix it, please. hurry: You might need a new foot valve. That keeps the water from draining back into the well. Depending on what type of pump you have, could be at the bottom of the well. To bleed the well, you need to remove the plug on the motor...it looks like a nut...about 3/4. You remove that and fill with water...when its full, turn the pump on and keep filling it till it gushes out...put the plug in (with new teflon tape) and it should work. Be careful not to touch the electrical, could get shocked. Its easy if the foot valve is good.

Q: need to know the electrical connections for a Square D water pump pressure switch..Have a quot;blacka quot;Redand the quot;ground quot;of course: Appears okorder /.. Can't find a diagram so we'll work from memory and assume the terminals are marked L1, L2, T1,T2 (as in motor control): Line (supply) connects to L1 L2 Load (pump) connects to T1 T2 Both grounds connect to the switch's Ground screw L1 T1 are terminals on the same NC contact block likewise for L2 T2 L1 T1 are electrically isolated from L2 T2 GL...

Q: i learned from wikipedia that the water pumps back to reactor where it is heated again and the cycle begins again. but then i saw this diagram: I can see why you're a little confused. There are actually 3 separate loops in most reactor designs and you can see this in the diagram. The primary heat transport loop contains the water that touches and cools the fuel and this is the water that is pumped back to the reactor where it is heated again.... It is shown in the diagram in pink. The water from the primary heat transport loop passes into a steam generator which is full of water but the water in these two systems is kept separate to ensure all radioactivity stays in the primary heat transport loop and in the containment building. Basically the pipes from the primary heat transport system pass through a large tank of water and heat the water in the tank causing it to boil. The steam is then passed out of the generator, out of containment, and into the turbine. Next it goes into a heat exchanger which is similar to the steam generator except it is used to cool the water. The cooled water then passes back into containment and into the steam generator to be boiled again. Finally, the third heat transport loop moves cold water from either a lake, ocean, or cooling tower, into the turbine building where it cools the water in the secondary heat transport loop. This water is kept completely separate from the water in the secondary heat transport loop to ensure that if the secondary loop water somehow becomes contaminated, it doesn't pass into the third loop and get into the lake, ocean, or atmosphere. I hope that clears things up :)

Q: Does anyone know or can show me a picture of the location of the water pump in the '97 Totota avalon please? I'm trying to replace mine.Please and Thank you :): The water pump is commonly driven either by the pump drive belt or the timing chain/belt. It is easy to replace the belt-driven water pump, as it can be remove from outside of the engine. For the timing chain/belt driven water pump, you need to remove the front cover and belts before you can reach the pump. Drive your car to the nearest dealer workshop and ask the mechanic.

Q: Can I get a time estimate to replace a water pump on a 1983 Nissan Sentra? I'm trying to calculate the cost of the repair separate from the part. Thanks.Also, time to replace a battery and the end on one of the attachments to the post.: well there is a manual for auto body and repair shops which will list the alotted time to replace things such as your water pump, i dont know how to get ahold of one without goign to a repair shop and asking, this book keeps them from charging 8 hours on somethign that woudl only take 2 hours, however if they run into a problem such as a broken bolt, thats where they can charge you for more time and labor but they should and i think have to tell you before fixing it . . .plus keep in mind that almost all the time, it takes more time jsut to reach the part than to replace it because you have to remove other thigns to get to it . . .sorry for the winded answer, but i woudl call some shops and ask them average times or try to get ahold of the estimate book

Q: I have a deep tropical fish tank, my three in one pump is 15 watts, if I put it in the middle of the active oxygen bubbling tank can function, everything is normal, but not very good filtering, can not clean up the garbage at the bottom of the tank. So they put the pump a little deeper, but at this time the pump does not bubble, the oxygen supply in the pipe there is water, atmospheric pressure can not enter, but still can pump water filter, so that the pump itself harmful? Will the pump burn out? This question is very important to me. Please help my brothers and sisters downstairs. I will thank you for my dear tropical fish: First tell you the pump not bad, just can't carry oxygen rinse, now he is equivalent to a 2 in a filter of the submersible pump, without any damage to the pump itself, three in one pump is actually in the 2 water outlet and air pipe, pressure by fluid flow is the principle of position the smaller the air drag, now a large pressure, oxygen loss of function, but the pump itself, his work without any change, so do not burn, rest assured it

Q: Ok, I took my '93 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L in to get the serpentine belt replaced, as the old one had snapped. They told me that the water pump had locked up and that's what made the belt break. The thing is, I had to get the radiator and water pump replaced this past summer and I am wondering what might've made my water pump lock up since it is new. The Jeep has a lot of miles and I'm slowly having to fix a lot of things, so I'm trying to be sure that I don't fix the pump just to find another problem. Also, the repair place told me the water pump looks brand new, so I know that it was definitely replaced, but should I contact the place the fixed the pump and radiator and see if there's some sort of warranty on the pump?: Warranty on the first pump has run out, you won't get any help there. Parts, even new parts do fail, that's why manufacturers offer warranties. I would suspect however the pump that was installed was a rebuilt unit, and perhaps the re builder didn't properly grease the bearings. Another possibility for early failure is the belt being adjusted up too tightly which will wear bearings out quickly. When it is repaired this time, push on the top of the serpentine belt to see if it has some deflection. There should be about 1/2 deflection along the longest run of the belt.

Q: What is the part called on a water pump that does the actual water moving. I want only this part to make my own water pump using a different motor and pulley.This is for lifting water 18' high and circulating through 1/2 to 3/4 inch pipe. Hoping to get about 6 gl per min: It's a form of a magnetic balanced motor.

Q: Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Coolant leaks (not into the oil)*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)Ive had this problem for a while. Some times my van drives just fine and heats just fine, then some days it wants to over heat and blow cool quot;heatquot;. Adding coolant to my van used to do the trick, but now its not working. If it is my thermostat that is broke, the water/coolant would still run through the hoses right?I really think its my water pump out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump? If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!: Again, see last answer to your same question. You obviously dont know what the real problem is, could be water pump and might not be. Instead of wasting over 25.00 on a water pump and that not being the problem, why dont you take it to a reputable repair facility and have the cooling system analyzed and they can tell you EXACTLY what part(s) need replacing, then go from there. Nobody can diagnose your cooling system problem over the internet since we are not at your vehicle with a coolant pressure tester and block test tool.

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