Multistage Horizontal Split Centrifugal Pump DK Series

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General Description
DK series pump is double-stage horizontal split centrifugal pump. It is widely used for water supply and drainage of industry, municipal facilities and agriculture irrigation. It can delivery clear water or other liquid which is physically and chemically similar to clear water. The inlet pressure should less than 0.6MPa and the temperature of the liquid is -20～80℃.
Performance range

Capacity Q: 18～1368 m3/h
Head H: 100～360m

Instruction of pump type

For example 40DK130

40: outlet diameter40mm

DK: Multi -stage horizontal split centrifugal pump

130: Rate head 130m

Structure

The pump is horizontal split casing. The pump inlet and outlet are located under split surface and are horizontally located on two sides of the pump casing; their centerlines are perpendicular to the pump axis. It is unnecessary to disturb the motor and the pipeline for maintenance, so it is very convenient to operate. The pump can use rolling bearing or sliding bearing. All other pumps use rolling bearings which get lubricated with grease except type 100DK230 and 250DK240 pumps with dilute-oil. Type 250DK360 pump uses sliding bearings which get lubricated with enhanced circulation of dilute-oil attached with dilute-oil station.

The direction of rotation

The rotor rotation of type 250DK240 and 250DK360 is counter clockwise looking from the motor to the pump i.e. the inlet is on the left and the outlet is on the right. The rotor rotation of all others is clockwise。

Material of main parts

The main parts of type 250DK360 pump: Cast steel or cast stainless steel. The main parts of all others: Cast iron.

Parts Range

pump, motor, common Foundation plate , sluice valve and check valve.

Remaind:

Please indicate the material of main parts in your inquiry or purchase contract. Any special requirement, please don’t hesitate to contact us.

Q: I have 2004 Chevy Trailblazer V8 4x4 that the water pump went out on. Does anyone know how long it takes to change it and where it is located? The dealer wants $750.00 to fix it. I really don't want to get riped off.: Depends on the engine. For the 4.2L (6 cylinder), the water pump (part # 24576952) costs $107.22. Labor time is 3.1 hours. There is also about 2 gallons of Dexcool coolant, about $30. For the 5.3L (V8), the water pump (part # 89017439) costs $231.42. Labor time is 3.6 hours. Also, 2 gallons Dexcool, $30. For the 4.2L, $750 is definately too much. For the V8, unless the labor rate at that dealer is about $135 per hour, $750 is still too high. I worked for a Chevy dealer for 3 1/2 years, and now own an independant shop. I recommend you find a good honest independant, and stick with them. I would charge just over $300 for the 4.2, about $500 for the V8. Now that you know the price of the parts and the labor time, you can make some calls and get a good estimate. Your first question should be what their labor rate is. Then tell them what you need done. Good luck.

Q: What's the function of the engine pump?: In simple terms, the engine is cooled to prevent the engine from getting too high.Working principle：Drive the pump bearings and the impeller to rotate through the pulley, the coolant pump impeller is driven to rotate together, under the action of centrifugal force was thrown to the edge of the pump shell, and produce a certain pressure, and then from a channel or pipe outflow. At the center of the impeller, the pressure is lowered because the coolant is thrown out, and the coolant in the water tank is sucked into the impeller by the water pipe and the pressure difference between the inlet of the impeller and the center of the impeller to realize the reciprocating circulation of the cooling liquid.

Q: No water will come out of any faucet in the whole house and I do not know what to do, if I need a whole new pump/tank or what could be causing this please help: Sounds like you have a jet pump, the kind with the pump above ground? If so, the motor to pump seal may have gone bad, those are ceramic, and you can look at a new one compared to an old seal, and see no obvious difference. You may have a slight leak in one of the lines or hoses there at the pump, or close to it. You may have simply lost prime, which can happen if you have a small leak or if the water table drops. If you are able to prime the pump, it may take off and start pumping water again, but you may need a technician to come repair things, depending on what is wrong. Oh yeah, turn the [pump off, don't let it run and do nothing, because the seal will overheat! -Saw another poster answered you first, (I type slow) and he gave you more info than I, sounds like they used to work on them too. good luck.

Q: I'm doing a DCP project which is at its concept design stage.In order to estimate the chilled water pump size and ratings roughly, could anybody give me some tips on the average/normal chilled water pump heads for a typical 10000 TR DCP. The length of the longest loop could be around 600 m single run.: to boot to the availability and go back line, if there are different factors in the equipment at the same time with administration valves and warmth exchangers, their rigidity drop also desires to be protected.

Q: I suddenly have this rattle noise whenever the engine is running but it diminishes with speed. It almost sounds like spark knock but spark knock would get worse at speed. It could be the water pump. Would a water pump get louder with speed, or go away as this does? I feel a tiny bit of in-out motion in the shaft but not side to side. Car is a Geo Metro and does have hydraulic lifters.: sounds like a pulley or bearing noise

Q: I could get a 1994 Camaro, v6, no rust, automatic, excellent condition for $1200. THe ony thing is that it needs a water pump. Is it worth the buy? How much other damage could have been done with the water pump damaged? and how hard is it to replace the water pump?: Tell them you'll give him a thousand and buy it. Check the coolant bottle and look for sludge. Check oil for milkshake looking oil. These motors are known for bad intake and head gaskets and that is not as easy as a water pump.

Q: I have a '97 Chevy S-10 2.2 with 208K miles. Today on the way to work the heat cut out suddenly.I have had an issue with my engine where the temp will go up and down while on the highway but maxes out at like 215. Today after the heat cut out it was getting up near the redline before going back down to 150.I made sure the coolant was good before coming home but on the way home it was doing the same thing. I changed the thermostat but it's still doing the same thing.When I rev the engine I can see the upper radiator hose collapsing so it seems like there's a clog somewhere but I don't know how to find it. I guess it could be the water pump but then what is causing the suction on the upper radiator hose?Anyone have any ideas?: doesnt sound like water pump you may have lost a heater core thats what it sounds like to me its getting vacuum and temp is jumping but you dont have heat sounds like it to me check that next but as with the other selection check if your thermostat is in wrong

Q: How tight to a tighten down the bolts on a '86 volvo 240 water pump. The manual I bought doesn't say. The torque won't help me cause I don't have a torque wrench, so just general discription would help a lot. (I stripped the threads on a stud last time): the pump is held on with 6mm x 100 thread pitch nuts and bolts. the best tool to use will be a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and short extension with a 10 mm deep socket [6 point] these bolts are 12-15 ft bs. of torque if you snug bolts down evenly and use only moderate pressure as a final tighten you should be alright. after srarting all bolts let pump relax so the top seal is not crushed

Q: My 1998 Dodge Dakota V6 heater only gets warm, I have replaced the thermostat. I have back flushed the heater core. The heater hose coming from near the thermostat gets hot, but the hose coming from the heater core going to the water pump only gets warm. The large hose coming from the thermostat is hot near the engine, but is only warm near the radiator. Is the water pump bad? If I open the radiator cap there is no signs of circulation. How do I check the water pump?Thanks,Gene: check for leaks in the system, the water pump may show signs of leaks or perhap even make a noise, flush out the radiator, it may be stopped up preventing good circulation, make sure thermostat is installed properly, if there is no signs of leaking,or no noise such a a bad bearing, or water pump not loose when you try to shake it, most likely I would change out the heater core.. and also replace the radiator cap so the system is properly pressurized.

Q: I have a Stamas boat that I am in the middle of restoring. It has 2 chevy 350's, with borg warner (sp) tranny's, and v-drives. Anyway, it has standard water pumps to cool the engines, and it had 2 Sherwood pumps to circulate the water to cool the tranny's, and v-drives. First, I am using the boat in Lake Michigan only, the water is very cool year round since it is such a big body of fresh water. I was wondering if there was any recommendation on possibly using 2 electric pumps to circulate the water? If so, what would a good unit be? Second, the transmission coolers were brass, with a honey comb in the center for the ATS fluid to run through, and the water would run on the outside to cool the fluid. Is this a more effective way to cool the fluid than with those expensive brass fitting? Just checking before I spend a few hundred on them to see if a better way to cool my engine and tranny's, in all honestly though, I am more worried about effectiveness than cost.: Why okorder /

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