• D Series Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • D Series Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • D Series Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Pump System 3
D Series Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Pump

D Series Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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Product Overview of D Series Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Pump

This series of pumps use national energy-saving hydraulic model, developed and updated constantly by our factory, with the advantage of high efficiency, wide range of performance, safety and smooth operation, low noise, easy installation and maintenance, long life, and its technology level is in the domestic leading position, product performance is reliable.

Features of D Series Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Pump

This series pump is a horizontal, single suction, multi stage centrifugal pump section, the suction is in horizontal direction, and outlet is vertical upward. Water suction, middle, discharge section, bearing housing and pump body are bolted into one strain, and select stages according to the pump head.
2. Rotor includes shaft, impeller, shaft sleeve, balance disk, and other parts. Axis parts are connected through the flat keys and the shaft nuts. The rotor is supported by the rotor bearings or sliding bearings in both ends, the bearing does not bear axial force, axial force is balanced by the balance disc. Bearings lubricated with grease, sliding bearings lubricated with light oil, and oil ring lubrication, and cooled by circulating water.
3. Shaft seal in the form of two kinds, mechanical seals and packing seal. When use packing seal, the packing ring should be placed at the right location, the tightness of packing must be appropriate to the liquid oozing drop by drop. Various sealing elements is in a sealed chamber, the chamber must be filled with some water, as water seal, water cooled or water lubrication. At the seal there is replacable sleeve, to protect the shaft.
4. From the motor direction, the pump is clockwise rotation.

FAQ

Q: Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

A: Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

Q: Where do I have to send pumps for service?

A: You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

Q: Are your pumps acid-proofed?

A: To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.

Q: Can your pumps mount Eff.1 motors

A: Currently, only on request though this will shortly be a CNBM standard.

Q: Are your pumps protected against dry running?

A: No, unprotected centrifugal pumps are not generally designed for dry running. It is important to give us or your dealer as much information as possible about the system in which the pump is used. Inlet pressure, the type of liquid to be pumped, together with relative density, viscosity and temperature, for example, are required in order to allow CNBM to recommend the right pump with the right gaskets for a long operating lifetime.

 

D Series Horizontal Multistage Centrifugal Pump

Q: Which professional friends ask, I encountered a problem in the design of fire pump head 90 meters, flow rate is 20/S, power is 37KW, but the construction side to buy the pump head and flow are achieved, but the power is only 30KW, this relationship? If you can, let me know by the way, thank you
No problem, despite the good use of different water pump factory manufacturing process is different, the product of the rich value of different factors, power difference is inevitable, as long as the flow and head to meet your use requirements.The calculation formula tells you: your flow is 72 tons / hour, lift 90 meters, motor power P=2.73HQ/0.75*1.2=28.5KW
Q: I replaced the water pump on my 1997 acura cl 3.0 v6 vtec. I set the timing how alldata said to. (Lined up marks on timing drive pulley and both cam pulleys) and put it all back together. Now when I start it the motor runs rough for about 45 seconds then it smooths out but won't rev past 3000 rpm. What are some possibilites it could be?
Ive seen this before. u replaced the water pump, which means u drained the coolant, replaced the pump, and filled it back up again. When u filled it back up u created big air pockets in the coolant system. Small air pockets are always in the system, but wont cause a problem. Big air pockets cause the engine to idle rough, like its misfiring. Then when u go to press on the gas it stalls, or it wont rev past a certain point. Ive had this problem myself a few times, replacing water pumps and lower radiator hoses. About the best thing u can do is just let the car run and idle for an hour, maybe even 2! Then rev it when its still parked at a higher RPM, just to flush out those pesky air pockets. I know it wastes gas, but thats what i think the problem is. Air pockets are something that most ppl dont think about when they drain and refil the cooalnt components.
Q: I want to either get a kit to rebuild the water pump or just by the entire assembly, but im not sure which water pump/kit that i will need for a 1997 mercury 25 hp 2 stroke.Serial Number 0G474648,1997 year,model is 25el according to transom plate.Any help will be greatly appreciated.Thanks in advance.
Well to start of, and two, A 25 hp does not have a water pump, like a car, it has am impeller driven by the out board motors gear system
Q: Stop the engine immediately and stop the circulating pump and the condensate pump. What's the harm to the turbine?
Stop the condensate pump is not required to condensate users, such as reducing water, mechanical seal water, shaft seal cooling water, deaerator, whether you need water. Stop circulating pump requires three: 1, exhaust steam temperature below 50. 2, there is no circulating water users. 3. No drain to condenser. If stop immediately stop circulating water and condensate pump, the consequences can be imagined.
Q: I am planning to build a koi fish pond, and I know I need a water pump. All I know is that a water pump will circulates water. Does it do anything else? does it act like a filter? does it provide aeration or oxygen to the pond?
Get a pump which could drift, the two with an equipment which you are able to purchase or droop it with an inner tube or on some blocks or the pump will suck up debris from the backside or your lake. Use the biggest pump you have got sufficient funds and be constructive to have a GFI to plug it into. What you want to do isn't consumer-friendly, yet it quite is a possibility. Attaching a hose to the pump intake isn't consumer-friendly. purchase your pump at a plumbing furnish domicile and clarify what you want. they are able to have each and every thing you want and save you countless journeys back and forth to a large container save.
Q: i have recently taken of my whole water pump cover to drain the fluid, not knowing that there was a drain screw to do it.So when i took it off, i broke the seal, and now the coolant constantly drips 24/7 until i have none left, nearly blew my head gasket the other day.I was going to get a new part, but then a friend told me about locktite to seal it shut so that it does not leak????Is this the super glue stuff orrrrr? :(Please help me and links would be good so i know what to getThanks you very much!
DPO, You will need the water pump gasket, water pump gasket sealant and the manual. DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE. Remove the cover [after draining the coolant this time] and clean everything up nice and dry. Resist the urge to scrape and gouge the parts with a screw driver to remove the old gasket material. you can use a scotchbrite pad to clean it all up. [no, steel wool cannot be used] Use a THIN film of sealant on each side of the gasket [NO, more is not better] and bolt it back together gently or you risk cracking the pump cover. Don't forget to refill with coolant and recheck after it has warmed up and cooled again.Get the manual before you do any more damage. You didn't give the year or exact model 85 so the link below is just for example.
Q: Any ideas on where and what type of water pump I should use for my 29 Gallon BioCube tank? It seems that the water pump is very loud and is not working the way it should. There are bubbles shooting the aquarium and I have tried everything to fix it. I am thinking of replacing the water pump all together. Any ideas on brands that would be compatible? Anyone else tried this? Please help...
ok before replacing have you cleaned the inside, and if there are air bubbles comming out it is because it is running dry. Basically all biocubes do this, the filter pad is slowing down the water too much, so either rince it well or replace it. Also i would wash out the blue sponge right before the pump as that can hold alot of dirt as well. Then if not add more water. But if you want to replace the pump, try via aqua water pumps. they tend to be the best. owner of the BC 29 and BC 14
Q: It's been slowly leaking for awhile now, but today it dumped brown water out like a bucket, when I shut it off facing up hill.
water pumps last less than 100k miles, get a replacement pump ,it should come with a gasket set. you may need to removed the fan shroud. Remove the serpentine belt (remember how it went on!) unbolt the old pump,you'll loose a lot of fluid ,so don't let Fido drink it. Now reverse the process and don't loose any bolts or drink beer while your doing this!The brown stuff you saw, was water .be sure you refill with coolant or the seals on your new pump are gonna get thrashed. Good luck kid.
Q: I have a 1997 mazda 626 4cylinder. For a while now, my hot n cold gauge keeps wobbling back and forth. I was keeping water in it and it was fine. A week ago it went all the way to hot and started smoking. There is water gushing out right beside the pulleys. I'm not sure if it is the water pump or not. Now, my car won't crank. Someone told me that it was the rotor button, but i can't tell if it is bad. I don't really want to take it to a mechanic. Can someone help me?????
That's what happens to water pumps, they start leaking and you loose coolant. When the gauge started acting weird that should have been your first clue. Unless you or someone you know can replace the pump you will need to take it to a mechanic. When you said it would not crank, did you mean the engine is seized up or just would not start, there is a difference.
Q: Had a water pump start leaking, when I replaced it with a new one, it leaked even worse (around the gasket and O rings this time). The process I took...I unbolted everything and removed the water pumpI scrapped everything off with a wire brushI coated both sides of the gasket with red gasket siliconI mounted the new one and bolted it down tightening in a cross pattern(kinda difficult to get everything lined up)It leaked real bad the first time so I loosened the bolts and played with the top rubber seal to make it seat better.It leaked a little less the second time... but still WAY too much.I completely removed it the third time and (totally distroying the gasket) gooped it up with gasket sealer again, along with the O rings and tried again... leaked worse.Considering options... go with a white or black high heat siliconPossibly just using the sealer with NO gasketGooping the HECK out of it with JB-weld and pray!Suggestions?Know what I did wrong here?
The first thing I was taught on Volvo water pumps was to use NO sealer. Get yourself a new gasket.Make sure the block is clean. Install the gasket on the two studs. Grease the heater pipe o-ring after installing on the pipe. Grease the hole it fits into. Install the top seal on the water pump and coat the surface with grease. Install the pump on the block and make sure the pipe has entered the pump. Tighten the two nuts until the pump is almost contacting the block but still moves easily. Insert a smaller Phillips head screwdriver into the bottom bolt hole of the pump and into the block. Lift the pump ,using the screwdriver ,until you can start the top bolt.Then use the screwdriver to wiggle the pump to start the left side bolt. Once you have started those two bolts,the bottom one will go right in. Tighten it all up and install the heater pipe bolt and you are done.

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