DZ47LE Series Current Circuit Breakers

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Q: I have a 99 mitsubishi eclipse, and recently the radio stoped working, along with the reading lamp that I have. I looked under the hood in the fuse box, and there was a fuse blown, but everytime I put a new one in, it would blow almost right away. What exactly is this caused from, and how can I get it fixed?: must be water interior the lens yet greater suitable than possibly you have a quick and there's a stripped or chaffed twine making touch with the physique or yet another twine. seem on the wiring harness going to each and each tail lamp as properly as each and each front turn sign. putting a paper clip interior the fuse field would reason a hearth, the fuse is there for a reason.

Q: I am having a hell of a time trying to find a 1.6 micro mini fuse for a circuit board with wire leads on them. I need ones that are fast acting (so far, I have only been able to locate slow)Is it possible that I can replace the 1.6 fast acting with a 1.5 fast acting? I have a 1.6 slow fuse with leads on them. But I heard that you shouldn't use a slow fuse with sensitive electrical components where there had been a fast acting fuse prior. (I would only be running at most 50w)Thanks for any help you may offer, I am much obliged: I assume that you've already blown the 1.6 amp fuse. Have you found the cause? Although putting a smaller rated fast fuse in it's place is normally OK for the short time it takes to find the correct size, electronics are very precise in amperage. I wouldn't use the 1.5 fast or the 1.6 slow in place of the 1.6 fast. You're taking a risk that is not necessary if this is an expensive piece of equipment. Wait and find the correct one.

Q: I recently bought an old 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and it runs ok, except it won't start nearly every morning. My mechanic told me the battery's most likely going. The only reason I'm thinking it's something else is because every morning when I go to start the car, there's a loud, intermittent noise coming from the fuse box; it's like a loud grinding/electrical noise that only lasts about a second at a time, but continually comes back almost on perfect rhythm (think of your directional, same sort of rhythm). Sometimes the lights will flash on and off with the noise too. Could this be something other than a bad battery? Or is it possible that these symptoms suggest a more electrical problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!: From your description, I understand that indeed there is an electrical problem. I would start with what is called wiggle test. While engine is running, try gently to wiggle the fuse box back and forward. Should you find any abnormalities in engine running or engine stalls or anything that shouldn't be doing out of the ordinary, you can say that the fuse box is your problem. If all good, secondly I would remove the fuse box and do a pin test on all fuse box connectors from under the box (wiring harness that plugs into fuse box). This will tell you if any male connector is loose. Should you have any loose connectors, just close them up a tiny bid so that they wont move. Before you put the box back, apply some electrical stabilant to ensure proper conductivity on all electrical components. This procedure could be time consuming but is well worth it to try. Finally, before you do all these actions please, have someone doing an AVR test to ensure your battery is good and entire charging/starting system is normal. Hope this will help you.

Q: I was trying to replace my ceiling light bulb in my 97 honda accord and yes i was stupid and didn't disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. And yes i blew out one of the fuses. I replaced the fuse and then noticed that my passenger door the one right behind the driver that when i open it the ceiling light wont come on but all the rest of the doors when i open it the ceiling light would come on. I thought it was the door jam switch so i replaced it and it still won't come on. I also checked every single fuse and all of them are still good. So i'm guessing that its the wiring so now i am wondering if its my wreckless short circuit that may have caused the wiring damage. Or short circuit does not cause wire damage. By the way my car only has one interior light which is that ceiling light. Thanks in advance for any answers!: Look up how to use a VOM read it. Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic. They got you at DC Electricity in use for the last 200 years. LOL!

Q: As stated, I'm going to add an extra CL in my fuse box for an accessory. Would it hurt anything to just add it to the lower gold bolt that already has a ground attached? I'd consider the empty one but I can't get my hand behind it and don't want to not be able to tighten in back up. Thanks for any advice, sorry for the novice question, I'm fairly new to working in my car.: Be careful, a cigarette lighter is a very high amperage draw device. The single existing fuse is only designed for one lighter, so you should consider running a dedicated line from the battery, fuse protected, to your new lighter. However, if you only plan on using the lighter socket for small current draw purposes, like a cell phone charger, then you could be okay tapping into an existing line. As for ground, any existing ground should be okay, as well as adding a new ground to a metal frame or body component.

Q: i checked the fuses, i had similar problems when i tried to install a stereo deck myself. Also my srs lights are on and my window does not open.: time for another car friend. don't mess with this as it is old. face it jap cars don't last forever. u no n japan they don't rebuild anything? everything is replaced every 100,000 km which is 66000 miles. ur car isn't designed to last. that is why every jap car in a wreck is totalled. the jap car co's make more money selling u a new car. so but another jap car. I don't want to catch u riding n a real car, like a 57 chevy or 67 mustang. I will pop u n tha haid an take it from ya.

Q: I have a power supply that reads 12 volts on the output but when I connect two 12V fans the voltage drops to about 4.5V. What electronic component do I need to replace? Is it a bad capacitor or transistor? Let me know if you need more information.: A diagram of the circuit would give the most information and allow for the best solution. Baring that, a general discussion may help but only a little. 1) All power supplies and circuits have impedance or resistance that is internal. There are no perfect wires, transformers, etc. This means that when you check the open circuit voltage (the voltage when there is no load attached to the power supply) it will read the highest voltage available. Normally when you connect a load, the power supply delivers a current to that load. The current flowing in the circuit will cause a voltage drop along the wires, transformers, coils, capacitors, etc. that causes the voltage at the load to be less than the supply voltage. (I am ignoring the effects of capacitors on a three phase power line here). This may be a small amount of voltage drop or a large amount depending on the size of your power supply and the amount of load current that must be supplied to the load. 2) The power supply must have the necessary capacity to drive the load. For instance you would not be able to use a 10 watt power supply and connect 100 watts of load to it. Based on the above, is the power supply big enough to drive the fans? Did it supply them previously without a problem? If the answer is yes, then there is a problem with the supply that needs to be repaired. The type of supply will make suggesting a repair solution very hard without the diagram or schematic. Look for a partially open circuit or poor connection first. Then look for a failed component. This will depend on the component (fuse, capacitor, transistor, IC, etc.). Wish this could have been better but I just do not have enough information. Hope this helps, Newton1Law What make model refrigerator do you have?

Q: i already had a 600w rms mono amp for my bass and a 1.0 Farad Digital Car Audio Capacitor, and it was fine for a year , a few week ago i install a 200w rms American pro amp to run my door speaker and it happen every morning i had to jump my truck, i unplug that new amp for a week and everything went back to normal during that week i took truck to dealer for a 250 point inspection everything was fine ,i saw that my battery was a cheap factory battery so i got a optima battery i rewire everything 0 gauge front to back and 4 gauge on back to wire both amp and cap.after all my truck die agan , had to jump this morning: It may seem obvious to you already, but there's an issue with your American pro amp. It sounds like the amp is staying on all the time. Make sure the REM input only has +12volt power when the key is turned. The remote lead from the HU is supposed to switch the amplifier on, but if you've got a stock radio you might want to tap a fuse in your fuse box to get switched power. If it's turning off like it's supposed to, it has an internal fault making it a constant drain on your battery.

Q: Hi i need to remove my fuse from my Nissan Serena Van 92 model, and i have looked at the fuse box, but nothing is indicating which fuse it is i take out. Can a electrician on here tell me which one it is to remove, and once removed will that effect anything else like lights, horn etc Thank you for any answers given: buy a $20 manual at your parts storethis will show you what you want , it wil also come in handy later for other problems.