CDL7 Series Residual Current Circuit Breakers
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- Q: I had a heater core leak and changed it. After a good days work of tearing the dash out and all I had it back together and cranked up the Jeep to ensure no leaks, Turned the Heater on after a few and the blower was not working. Took another day of back tracking to make sure I didn't miss anything and still no blower. I have checked the fuses and even changed the Resistor still nothing. What else could it be, I know the fan is good as it was working before, the switch also never gave me a problem so I would assume it is good also.
- I've heard of a lot of issues with the blower switch in your vintage Wranglers, but you can spend a lot of $ throwing parts at it hoping to find the fix. Best bet is to get an electrical multimeter and a manual and start testing. A good manual (maybe Haynes or Chilton) or better yet the Factory Service Manual will outline testing procedures for each component.
- Q: I have a 2003 Chrysler Sebring. When I first bought it, six months ago I replaced the fuse that powers the radio, trunk button, unlock/lock button, and rear view mirror light. I replaced it every two months but lately Ive had to replace it every other day! I have no clue whats going on or what I should do. Please help!
- Auto zone won't diagnose that for you. You do have a direct short and you will need to trace the wires till you find it. First try and disconnect each component in that circuit meaning radio see if it blows if it does then go to the trunk unlock devise and unplug that if it blows then go on from there. When it stops blowing then replace that device. In most cases the wiring in you car is well protected from direct shorts unless someone has messed with them or add thing to the wiring that shouldn't be there. It's just a process of elimination. hope this helps
- Q: I have a 24vac about 5 amp transformer that will have leads coming out of it for testing electric circuits. I need to know if there is a component to help me out. If the leads were to touch together it would short out frying my transformer. I need a device that will upon the leads touching will not allow the current to back into the transformer causing a short. I know a fuse accomplishes this but I don't want to keep buying/replacing fuses since they will touch a lot! I'm going to use a resettable circuit breaker for know till I see if there is a better alternative. Thanks!
- Model railway transformers, before they got all electronic, used to use a resettable electro-mechanical circuit breaker to cut out if there was overcurrent. So apart from a complex electronic current limiting circuit, a breaker will do the job for you.
- Q: I have a component cable with an end for a ps3, xbox 360 and wii. If I plug a xbox 360 and ps3 into it and then plug it into my tv will something bad happen if I have both my xbox and ps3 on? Or will this even work at all.
- I wouldn't try it - you won't blow up the whole block or even your whole house (worst that would happen to the house is a blown fuse or circuit breaker), but you could ruin either the PS3 or the Xbox 360 or both. I doubt it would hurt the TV, but I wouldn't try it anyway - why risk it? There's no reason to leave them all plugged in and turned on anyway - it surely wouldn't work, as the TV would not know which set of signals to display - the mix would be impossible for the TV to display even if no damage were done. Certainly don't power both units on at once, and I'd even keep only one device plugged in at a time just to be safe in case I forgot and did power up both devices at once just to be safe.
- Q: I have a 1998 Honda civic stock altenator I want do a 1200 watt amp it says 120 amps fuses and I want do 2 highs amp 1 300 watt and 1 400 watt will I be ok to hook this up
- In the short term, probably. Long term - I'd be surprised if that alt lasts 6 mo. At anything over 1/2 volume that alt will basically be maxed out. Under that much stress the amount of heat produced will be extreme. Heat in alternators causes both the electrical components and the mechanical components to wear out quickly.
- Q: During the battle of Gettysburg, the gunfire was so intense that several bullets collided in mid-air and fused together. Assume a 5g union musket ball was moving right at a speed of 250m/s, 20 degrees above the horizontal. A 3g confederate ball was moving to the left at a speed of 280m/s, 15 degrees above the horizontal. Immediately after they fuse together.1.what is their velocity??2.what is their kinetic energy??3.was this elastic or inelastic, why?
- Answer part 1 using conservation of momentum Use the answer from part 1 to compute the kinetic energy of the fused bullets It was inelastic since the bullets stuck together 1) Since momentum is a vector quantity, we need to look at the horizontal and vertical components separately and then look at the resultant to find the outcome: Vertical: 1.25*sin(20)+.84*sin(15).008Vv 80.6m/s horizontal 1.25*cos(20)-.84*cos(15).008Vh 45.4m/s The resultant velocity is sqrt(80.6^2+45.4^2) 92.5m/s 2) The kinetic energy is 1/2*m*v^2 .5*.008*92.5*92.5 34.225 3) the kinetic energy before collision was .5*(.005*250*250+.003*280*280) 274 The loss in kinetic energy is typical in an inelastic collision j
- Q: I installed my brand new battery in backwards, it was late at night and i couldn't see what i connected. When the terminals connected, a green wire connected to the starter popped in smoke. I took my truck to a mechanic and they said i fried my computer and that i needed a new one.or a used one. IS this seriously what i didbecause this is a $500.00 F*** Up.
- that is somewhat not basic to assert precisely. Did it burn each and every of the rubber insulation off of the cord? or perhaps even burn the cord in 2? If no longer you're likely ok. I mean it would not damage replacing that floor cord basically so in a lengthy time period down the line you haven't got issues. Does the automobile nonetheless run? i have had batteries short out and do a similar element. Fried the black cord grounding the battery to the automobile. Burnt off each and every of the rubber insulation. My basically option on the time changed into black electric powered tape I had contained in the glove container. I placed a battery in it and drove it abode. i in my opinion forgot about that tape restore I had done till analyzing your question. i must have pushed that truck yet another 40,000 miles with out issues.
- Q: from a circuit board, is this a resistor or a fuse?
- That is a current protection fuse. The one shown is a 3.15a 250v ceramic. Most boards or devices have the correct specs labeled for safety fuses, as the picture does. Glass fuses have their specs stamped into the metal end caps.
- Q: 1988 Ford F-250 4x4 460, multi port fuel injection. dual gas tanks. Its started with intermittent problem, truck would just die, but start back up after a while, sometimes right away, others almost drain the battery to start it. in finally gave out for good, checked presser at rails nothing, ran alternate power to pump for a second and fuel presser jumped right up to 6lbs. but only ran it for a second. i don't do so well reading wiring diagramms
- There should be a relay for the fuel pump. I think your fuel pump is out though. You should have more fuel pressure than that.
- Q: Alright so my setup is a sony xm-zr1852 1000w amp and 2 12 Dual 1100w subs. One day i was driving along and started to smell a burning scent then looked back and my trunk was smoking, shortly after that the subs stopped bumping. I pull over open the trunk and there is smoke coming off the subs. I check the two 30amp fuses in my amp and they are both melted. I replaced the fuses and now the amp is in protect mode and still no bump.What's the problem?
- you probably blew your subs, or fried the amp
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CDL7 Series Residual Current Circuit Breakers
- Ref Price:
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