DZ47LE Earth Leakage Circuit Breaker

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Product Features:

DZ47LE earth leakage circuit breaker is used for the protection against electrical leakage in the circuit of 50Hz or 60Hz, rated voltage single-phase 240V, 3-phase 415V, rated current up to 60A When somebody gets an electirc shock or the residual current of the circuit exceeds the fixe value, the ELCB can cut off the power within the time of 0.1s automatically protecting the personal safety and preventing the equipment from the fault resulted from the residual current.
With this function, the ELCB can protect the circuit against overload and short circuit or can be used for the unfrequent switchover of the circuit under normal conditions. It conforms to IEC61009 standard.

Q: I have checked every single fuse under the hood and under the steering wheel. Still no radio, clock, or dome lights.: Double check the fuses tor the dome light and cigar lighter, its easy to miss a bad fuse If you have a test light or DVOM (multi meter) use it to check both sides of the fuse for power, obviously an open in the fuse is going to cause one side of it to have power and not the other. You will need these tool to verify the fuse is getting power, check the condition of the fuse, and trace the power to the individual components on that circuit. For backyard mechanics, Harbor Freight has these tool for the $5-10 range that work great for occasional use. Good luck man! If you need any further help with open / short diagnosis just let me know.

Q: after a ride i noticed my neutral light, tachometer, blinker lights and gauge, and brake light were not working anymore. im not good at electrical but i took off my gas tank and seat to follw the wires and i didnt see anything that looked like it wasnt getting contact, and i also checked my fuses. any thoughts?: Because it spent all that time in the ocean after the tsunami

Q: I like using recycled objects for art. I was wondering what kind of tools I'd need to first cut and then weld/fuse pieces of found metal for small to medium sculptures. I don't want to buy a whole workshop! Also something small that I can use to fuse or shape plastics. Safety tips for doing this kind of thing are appreciated. Thanks!: Not enough information and way too broad of a topic.

Q: Hey,Ww have a DC to AC converter so we can use our laptop and charge our cells on the road. The casing fell off the converter, and my mom and sister told me that it was stuck in the front power port (or point as the manual calls it) of the van.One day I decided to go out with a pair of hemostats and try and remove the plug. Little did I know that power was still running to the power point inspite of the engine off. Once the hemostats were inserted, there was this huge ark (tons of sparks) so I made sure everything ran properly and said that I would get the part out at a later date.Today I looked and it turns out no part is stuck in that power port, but it is dead. The fuses for the front and back port are okay along with the cigar lighter.I thought I could go pick up a new port from the dealership, but my mom thinks the wiring is fried, but if the voltage got that high, wouldn't the 20 amp (max of 240V) be fried?Anyone know what could be wrong? Is it the wiring or port?Ty!: Im sure it would be the wiring or a fuse. I would check for a fuse under the dash and also there should be a main fusebox in the engine bay next to the battery. If it was the wiring then it would have shorted at the weakest place (or smallest gauge wire). When something like that happens you need to be carefull. There is no telling what kind of damage might have been done to other electrical components in the vehicle. Hopefully that was the only thing affected and you wont see any more problems come up later on. I would suggest having a diagnostic done on the electrical system just for good measure. good luck.

Q: I accidentally left my husbands ps3 in the tv stand drawer with the door closed and running a movie. By the time i got a chance to realize i left the door shut about 3 to 5 minutes passed and the ps3 sounded like a blow dryer and a gust of heat came out. I immediately shut off the ps3. About 8 hours later my husband turned it on and put his game in, within 5 minutes the game froze shut off and the yellow light appeared than shut off.So we waited and kept trying a few hours later and i did the fan test once and the fans did not work at all and immediately shut off. Fast foward to 5 hours the ps3 now turns on but it's glitched out and is freezing so we shut it off so it doesn't over heat and damage the motherboard. What can we do to repair it? We know the fan is broken so we'll repair that but how do we know the connector for the fan to the motherboard isn't shot?: your husband might be wanting to kill you now haha

Q: I own a 1999 Chevy Malibu with a v6 engine. I had a problem before where the car had trouble maintaing stability and dropped way below .5 on the RPM. I fixed the problem but that presented another problem. The Air conditioning and windows won't start at most times. I checked the heat gage and found that whenever it reached past halfway on the heat meter, the problem presented itself again. this led me to believe that it is an electrical problem. the thing is, if the cooling fans aren't working at the same time the A/C and/or the windows, then what is the source of the problem? my question is what is a(n) component(s) that is linked to the windows, A/C, and the cooling fans besides the battery? Please help! THX!: fuse box and relays and power source not battery but wires to the battery, switch's and or sensors, but they are odd things not work at the same time

Q: I have a 2000 Chevy Tahoe 5.3L. The front AC works fine, it blows nice cold air. The rear AC does not work. When I turn either of the overhead ac control swicth on, I can hear a click in the rear passenger pannel but no air comes out at all. I checked the fuse box under the hood and the HVAC fuse was blown (30A). I replaced that and turned the rear ac back on. Again, I hear a click in the rear panel. I can hear that everytime I turn either switch on each controller on and off. Went to check the fuse and was blown again, but I can still hear the clicking sound in the rear even with the fuse blown. I believe there are 3 components in the rear ac system. 1) Hot/Cold Actuator 2) Floor/Ceiling Actuator and 3) Control Module. Now, is one of these bad? Where is my problem? I don't want to start replacing parts without knowing what is really bad on my vehicle.Please help. Thanks: Should be in the blower itself, not the actuators. What you can do is get a short finder so you dont have to keep replacing 30A fuses, but unplug the relay in the back for the blower motor see if the short is before the rear HVac or inside the rear HVAC. If it doesnt blow then insert the relay unplug the blower itself see if it is the problem. Maybe it or a short in the wiring somewhere

Q: i have a 150cc 4-stroke scooter , At first it was starting fine but over time the stator fryed and hade to be replaced and after replacing it did not give any spark. so i tried changing the cdi and ignition coil . AND STILL NO SPARK any advice?: You got an open circuit somewhere, do you have VOM, tester?Did you replace or test the fuse?

Q: a. short circuit b. series circuitc. switch d. parallel circuit e.fuse f. electric power: Answer b) A series circuit only has one possible path for the electrons to move.

Q: I had this LCD TV for about 2 years and suddenly it stop working, will not turn on and has no power. It made some static noise then it just stop working. The rest of my entertainment system (audio receiver, speakers, subwoofer, radio) still works, powers on in the same electrical outlet with a power surge protector.: I think you blew a fuse on the main power supply.these units are pretty much low voltage and high current systems, and they shouldn't have problems with shorted components.

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