• GCA Series General Silicon Rectifying Charger System 1
GCA Series General Silicon Rectifying Charger

GCA Series General Silicon Rectifying Charger

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Principle & Characteristics

Mini charger, transformer isolated stop-down, full-wave rectification、regulating current and voltage with various grade of switchgear.


Scope of Application

It is widely used to recharge the battery in car and motorcycle reparing、generator group、program controlled exchange board、communication equipment and computer.


Main Technical Parameter
Overall Size & Weight(For reference only)


Q: I have a 2003 Chrysler Sebring. When I first bought it, six months ago I replaced the fuse that powers the radio, trunk button, unlock/lock button, and rear view mirror light. I replaced it every two months but lately Ive had to replace it every other day! I have no clue whats going on or what I should do. Please help!
is this an OEM radio or an after market? do you have an Amp on the same circuit? Look at the power requirements for the raido if this is an after market, it may take more juice than what the fuse can deliver. *************************** DO NOT replace the fuse with a larger amp fuse. your car can catch fire because you just over loaded the circuit **************************
Q: Everything has been hooked up in my car for about a year (DLS Components, and Rainbow Sub!) and I decided to sell my subwoofer box. Now my amp was on the box so I took it off. In doing so I unhooked all my wires, power, ground, remote, etc etc. anyways. So I put my amp back into my car. NOTHING WAS HOOKED UP SO PLEASE DONT SAY MY OHM LOAD IS OFF I hooked my power, ground, and remote back up. I did not hook any of my channels on, so i jus decided to start my car. Everything i start it my fuses pop right away. I checked my ground, power, and remote everything is good! where in the world is my short!@!!!!!
replace the fuse, and next time wait until you have subs to hook up before you hook up the amp and start the car
Q: A friend of mine has left town for a week, so another friend and I decided to install air horns in his car as a Christmas present/practical joke. We wired the horns to his existing horn button and it seemed to have worked for a short time. Then it stopped. We assume the problem is a blown fuse and we're going back in to check/work on it more soon. My question is what should be done after replacing the fuse to assure no further failure? Obviously the horns are drawing too much power, but will any electrical components solve the issue? Possibly a higher gauge wire?
If there is an amperage rating on the horn or whatever runs the horn, Times that amperage by 125% OR (1.25) and that is the size of fuse to use. Hope this helps you some.
Q: How to turn the idle down?
Spark, gasoline, compression. verify for spark with an previous spark plug inserted into between the plug wires and the metallic area of the plug touching a metallic floor on the engine, see in case you may discover a spark while the engine is cranked. verify for gasoline, in case you haven't any longer have been given a gauge you may depress the schrader valve on the gasoline rail, it in lots of circumstances has a plastic cap over it and it feels like the valve stem on a tire. be careful as gasoline will spray out at 40PSI so conceal it with a rag. to ascertain for compression without a compression guage, crank the engine over it would sound even, as each and each cylinder comes up on its compression stroke the starter will decelerate somewhat. If a variety of of cylinders have low compression the sound would be choppy. If not one of the cylinders have compression, the sound would be secure without pulses. the eu is remarkable. once you turn the main to on does the verify engine mild come on? if no longer then the workstation won't be getting ability. different issues to ascertain are cam or crank sensors those administration ignition and injector timing.
Q: I have a 1987 ninja 750. i bought it and it turned on with an old battery but needed to be jumped to start. i bought a new battery . a duralast the one you add the acid in and charge. but now it wont turn on. a battery before that i added a new battery but i mixed up the terminals (pos on neg and neg on pos) did that mess up the electrical stuff or fuses or am i doing something wrong. hope to hear some help.
If you connected a battery backwards, you hopefully just blew some fuses. Check them all. Note that there may be a main fusible link somewhere apart from the actual fuse block. If the fuses are all good, you've blown some major electrical component(s). Time to either start troubleshooting, or haul it to a shop.
Q: I'd like to be able to generate significant voltages of DC for experimentation purposes, but so far am having difficulty in creating/sustaining such high voltages. My hope is that the answer may lie in building a voltage multiplier, but I know very little about such technology. It seems I could potentially build one if I knew what components to get and how to configure them. Any help would be appreciated.
yes, you can use ordinary diodes and caps for this. The difficulty is in adequate separation and insulation between stages. For example, if you start with 120 volts ac, from a simple isolation transformer, you can get 160 volts per stage. You need 400 volt diodes, although I'd get 800 volt ones for extra margin, such as 1N4008, as the price difference is small. For the caps, it depends on the current. I'd get perhaps 20?F caps. You need only 200 volts, but I'd try for 400 volts for extra margin, in case one stage dies. reference has more details. edit: I'd be sure to use lots of fuses, like 1 amp ones. And I'd get some high voltage resistors, so you could build a voltage divider to measure voltages. For example, a 100:1 divider could be a 99 M ohm and 1 M ohm. The 99 M could be 4 - 22 M and 1 - 11M. You may have to adjust the 1 M upwards to compensate for your voltmeter resistance. A thousand to 1 would be a 1 Gohm resistor and a 1 M resistor. You can get the Gohm from places like Victoreen, or build it up from smaller resistors. Note that 1/4 watt resistors usually have a max voltage rating of 450 volts. I have seen web pages that go into detail on how to do this, re epoxy and other techniques to maintain the high voltage. .
Q: I have an 85 Mustang 5.0 convertible. one day, the stereo stopped working. At the same time, the fuse for the gas door, courtesy lamp and key warning buzzer blew (one fuse). If i try to put a fuse in, it just blows. Does anyone have an idea of where the short could possibly be? or can a component on that circuit fail and cause a short?
If the an aftermarket radio was installed, the wiring may of been done using just electircal tape, as some fly-by-night people do. Over time the wires may become loose, and hit a ground. Take the radio out and look to see.
Q: Helo i have a 1992 ford escort and recently got a new battery because my car wasnt starting up.I had the alternator tested after i had it jumped and the alt tested fine. But when i got my new battery i parked my car for a few days later got in and it didn't turn on. wen i tied to turn it on the bell for the open door caution rang and i felt the click on my ignition switch but no reving.what could be is it a fuse?If so can it be possible to jump a car wit a bad switch?
Check your fuses and make sure positive and negative cables to the battery are properly connected.
Q: I have 5mm LEDs that Im using to make automotive tail lights with and I need to know what I use for surge protection.
Figure out the current draw, and use a slow-blo fuse in series. Why do you need surge protection in an automobile ?
Q: I have a rotel RB-850 that won't turn on after working fine forever. Power light does not come on. Someone suggested it might be a blown fuse.
I repair these - it is never just the fuse! I urge you to not attempt to just replace the fuse. Fuses do not go out due to age, they blow to protect other components from further damage and/or fire (no, I am not kidding). The amplifier requires service by a qualified technician. There are no user replaceable parts inside. Those Rotels were good units and worth the repair. Your best bet will be a stereo/home theater store that does repairs, although you may find a TV repair shop that has an tech that knows vintage audio. Now put that screw-driver away before you hurt yourself.

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