• GCA Series General Silicon Rectifying Charger System 1
GCA Series General Silicon Rectifying Charger

GCA Series General Silicon Rectifying Charger

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Principle & Characteristics

Mini charger, transformer isolated stop-down, full-wave rectification、regulating current and voltage with various grade of switchgear.


Scope of Application

It is widely used to recharge the battery in car and motorcycle reparing、generator group、program controlled exchange board、communication equipment and computer.


Main Technical Parameter
Overall Size & Weight(For reference only)


Q: I have a 24vac about 5 amp transformer that will have leads coming out of it for testing electric circuits. I need to know if there is a component to help me out. If the leads were to touch together it would short out frying my transformer. I need a device that will upon the leads touching will not allow the current to back into the transformer causing a short. I know a fuse accomplishes this but I don't want to keep buying/replacing fuses since they will touch a lot! I'm going to use a resettable circuit breaker for know till I see if there is a better alternative. Thanks!
Whatever reason you may think you have for doing such a thing, stop it. The output of a transformer cannot be safely shorted, even for a fraction of a second. If you do use a circuit breaker, it will do exactly the same thing as a fuse, except that the circuit breaker should not burn out. If you persist, you will eventually burn the transformer out.
Q: component in the product functioning or not. true or false?
You are attempting to characterize interdependence. Logically, something is independent if it has no dependency on any other component in the product functioning AND SEPARATELY no other component in the product can cause it to function or not. You describe the first component, but not the second. Example - An IPOD plugged into the cigarette lighter of the car (and pretend that it has no internal batteries). There is nothing that can be entered into the ipod that will change how the car works (car is the potentially independent component), however, if the car fuse blows, the IPOD turns off. This certainly violates the hypothesis that the car is independent.
Q: I am trying to repair a fill valve fuse in my maytag washer.
The one amp fuse is there to limit the current to 1 amp. Using a 5 amp fuse will allow 5 amps to flow in a circuit designed for 1 amp. This current over the designed max current can cause damage to the components in the circuit and could also cause the components to overheat and start a fire. DON'T DO IT.
Q: 2000 malibu power windows will not work at all. replaced the circuit breaker and still does not work
you may need a new regulator (the motor may be bad this comes with new regulator) have some one with knowledge of automotive electrical systems confirm
Q: I am trying to fix the a/c and i need to find the relay. I have to fuse box but cannot locate the relay and thats where i found the problem to be
SUV's in general don't have the best gas mileage but some do better then most others. I am taking a guess based on my old 97 Cherokee is any where from 15 to 20. give or take a few depending on what you have done to the engine, up grade? or rough ridding on the engine? mileage on the engine?. Hills or stop and go traffic kill the fuel too.
Q: I also here a thumping noise on the passenger side dash board when I turn the vehicle off what should I do
It sounds like the ac compressor clutch is bad. How to troubleshoot: Unplug the A/C compressor clutch wire and replace fuse and turn on A/C. If it does not blow, it is not anything in the wiring to the compressor. If it blows without the compressor plugged in you are going to have to check wiring and components from the compressor back.
Q: I need to get a ball park idea regarding fixing or replacing the cigarette lighter in my car--- 2005 Hyundai Accent specifically, but curious how much it would cost for any car. It is not a fuse problem--- when I was pulling my phone charger out, it ripped some component out with it (a metal ring and a smaller metal piece). If I try to plug something it, it sparks and caused my GPS unit to reset, etc.
About 5 bucks and 5 minutes
Q: I'd like to be able to generate significant voltages of DC for experimentation purposes, but so far am having difficulty in creating/sustaining such high voltages. My hope is that the answer may lie in building a voltage multiplier, but I know very little about such technology. It seems I could potentially build one if I knew what components to get and how to configure them. Any help would be appreciated.
The okorder
Q: I have no idea what this component is or where to get one. It's from a sleep comfort bed pump and I need a replacement part. Here's a picture of it and the pump label.
Do you see the black bridge marked DF 10S near the fuse, and the VDR marked MOV1 as well? I would suspect either of those to be a POSSIBLE cause of the fuse blowing, because the black bridge can't stand much overvoltage, and the MOV can also go short- circuit because it has done its job, protecting from excess voltages. I say possible, because there could also be a string of other damage. But checking those first would be a start. I think there could also be a PCB track that's been vapourised, leading from the mains to the fuse. The flash seems to be under the board, not under the fuse, and I can't SEE a track there.
Q: I have an 2006 Ford Fusion SE. The vehicle is experiencing a parasitic draw of about 110mA. I've found that the draw is coming from fuse 19 in the underhood fuse panel. This circuit is one of the 12V Always Hot circuits that powers components controlled by the BCM, or as Ford calls it, the Smart Junction Box. I have already determined that it is not the Smart Junction Box, as well as a few other components powered by that circuit. I've read on another post that it was a navigation system problem. The vehicle is not equipped with any such equipment. I've also verified that neither an underhood light nor the trunk light are staying on. There aren't any TSBs regarding such an issue. I've also checked 2005 2007 with no luck. Has anyone else experienced this problem? If so, what advice might you have for me as a technician?
First congratulations on doing an EXCELLENT job of troubleshooting most people would have bought two batteries, an alternator and a starter by now. The only thing you have left is to separate the components always on but I see you've done that. Try measuring the draw from those components right there next to the BCM. According to Kirkoff's law, the total has to equal the sum so give it another try. It looks like you're definitely on the right track. It could be bad insulation in the harness somewhere. I've seen stranger things happen.

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