• D86K insett-type three-phase ammeter System 1
D86K insett-type three-phase ammeter

D86K insett-type three-phase ammeter

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Application

D86K is the same to D86 series except for the mounting dimensions and wiring methods. the ammeters are used in distribution panel and box.


Type and meaning
Technical parameters

1、Meters conform to GB/T 15283 -1994 and GB/T 15282-1994 standards.
2、Meters can be made into types: direct wiring and CT/PT wiring;
3、Can be made into special meters according customer’s requirements (different frequency, voltage, current specifications etc.)
4、Power consumption:actiD86K is the same to D86 series except for the installation dimensions and wiring methods. the ammeters are used in distribution panel and box.ve power consumption of voltage circuit less than 2W(under reference conditions)
5、Dielectric properties:1.2/50µs wave,peak value:6kV, no damage permitted under 10 times test. meter can withstand 2kV(circuit to earth, under 45~65Hz,1 minute)。


Outline and installation dimensions
Type and specification


Q: Every time I buy a little figurine or annual ornament, I am amazed at how crystal clear the glue is that holds the crystal together.Anyone know what kind of glue that is or what kind you think it might be?
NO, but you could call the factory or head office ask what they would use to replace a piece if it broke off I would think it would be the same as what they used to create it in the first place.
Q: I had lab and I don't quite understand why I did what we did. We used an analog and digital VOM and used it to record the ohms and volts of various electrical components. I was wondering why when using the analog that different devices read completely different ohm readings. Take for example, our Buss fuse didn't even make the needle move, but the diode and the resistor made it go to infinite ohms. How do I figure out what they are supposed to read, and what to expect before going to lab. I couldn't find anything in my book or the lab manual. Also, I was wondering why a resistor would measure outside of its' tolerance range. Is this because it was faulty? Any help is appreciated.
Because the fuse is supposed to just create a short circuit when the current is larger than what it's supposed to be. the fuse must conduct therefore it won't have a large resistance whereas a resistor such as a light bulb or any other load is clearly to have high resistance, as the name resistor indicates.
Q: I was plugging my tom tom into my ciggarette lighter to charge and a penny fell into the lighter hole. Im driving so I grab a pen to get it out and the pen bursts leaking ink everywhere. I then notice my car radio just shuts off. I try to get the ink out as best as possible and I plugged up several chargers, but none come on and nor will my radio. Did I really screw something up I can't live without GPS or Tunes. Real help only pleaseI'm gonna go to Auto Zone tomorrow to test fuses, but any help still appreciated.
Yep, your problem is a fuse. On many vehicles, the cigarette lighter and the radio are powered through the same fuse. When you gave a connection with little or no resistance between the power and the ground in the socket, you created a very high amp flow. The high amps flowing cause increased heat and will burn up wires and can actually start a fire and destroy electrical equipment. Fuses are designed with thin bridges of metal in them designed to burn up after a certain amperage. Basically this means that if something happens (like what happened to you), instead of allowing the high amps to run through the system and damage components or start a fire, the small bridge of metal in the fuse will burn up from the increased heat of amperage flow. Pull the fuse and replace with a new one of the SAME amp rating, and you will be good to go. Everything is ok, you didn't mess up your vehicle. I've done similar things more then I care to remember.
Q: Hi my first visitI have been having problems with battery drains lately. Overnight the voltage of my car battery drops from 12.4 to 11.8 and if I leave it more than 3 days it will not start (11.5 to 11.2). On idle and load it is near 14.2. So I feel alternator is charging well.I am about to start pulling fuses to locate drain but was wondering if an alternator that is starting to die (but will still charge) can cause battery drain. Can the diodes in alternators draw current from the battery?Thanks
This Site Might Help You. RE: Can Alternator Cause Battery Drain? Hi my first visit I have been having problems with battery drains lately. Overnight the voltage of my car battery drops from 12.4 to 11.8 and if I leave it more than 3 days it will not start (11.5 to 11.2). On idle and load it is near 14.2. So I feel alternator is charging well. I am
Q: I was able to find out what the source of amperage draw was coming from, and it is the IOD. It is drawing 0.426 amps. The meter reads 0.923 and the Vehicle reads 0.497 without it installed. Generally, vehicles should have this amount to begin with correct? What could possibly be the issue with the IOD? Why is there an excess in amperage draw?
Because many of the modern electronics that run the engine, the radio, the car alarm, and a lot of accessories all need a small amount of current to keep settings stored in their chips. All your radio stations, engine errors record and some other settings you've made or the car has made would disappear without these current draws. I do suspect that your car alarm is the main culprit, probably drawing nearly a half an Amp when it's on for the sensing circuits and monitor circuit. I wouldn't worry about an amp to an amp and a half. Most modern lead acid batteries carry a cold cranking amp rating of hundreds of amps. If you are having trouble starting in cold weather or after the vehicle sets for a few days, better to investigate the condition of the battery, cables, terminals and alternator than worry about less than an amp draw. It's just a sign of the times, everything needs juice. I hope this helps you understand what's happening a bit better.
Q: I have a 14ft V-bottom Lund fishing boat. Use it for fishing and whatnot. It is a pretty basic boat, no previous wiring. Here is the setup I am thinking of doing.Batteries will be up front under one of my seats. I am going to parallel two 12Vs together, and then run 4 awg wire to the back of the boat. The positive side will have a 20amp fuse. I am going to run these into two ground bars, one for the positive side and one for the negative side. All my components i wanna run will then hook up to these ground bars as well. I have a trolling motor, navigation lights, and going to put a CD player in it as well. And maybe a cigarette lighter. Do i need to be worried about anything or will this work fine? Should have more fuses or run a fuse panel instead of the ground bars? Any help would be great. The wiring is expensive, and i dont want to ruin it somehow. Thanks.
It should work for most of what you want to do. I suggest that you run a separate set of wires for the trolling motor, put the fuse at the battery terminal, not at the buss bars. Then use separate fuses for each circuit except the trolling motor which should be fused at the battery. You will need twice as much wire to do this, but it can be much smaller such as 8 GA, stranded for the buss strips, the trolling motor wire needs to be sized for that motor, You might consider moving the batteries to the center seats, unless the balance is a major consideration.
Q: Can overheating cause the PSU fail for good? I have a gaming rig and been playing demanding games. My PSU just failed on me this morning. I can't turn on the power or anything, it just went dead all of a sudden. I took it out and it was pretty hot on the top.I'm just wondering if this is even possible? Or is there like a fuse that melts when it gets too hot?
No, there are usually no fuses. The power supply overheats and the circuitry fries. Get another that is rated above the minimum most of your computer components are rated to work. If you have a high end, add-on video card, look at the documentation that came with it, or manufacturers website to find those specs. Look at links for power supplies.
Q: Hi guys, I just Blew my guitar amplifer fuse.because it was a unit from the US and Accidentally got the wrong converter here in Shanghai. It so hard looking for a fuse that has the EXACT inscription 2A 250Vall I can find is 2AL 250 Vis this the same type? And do you think the power outage could do some damgae to the amplifier components even after blowing the fuse? I used some emergency fuse to test.so far its working and there are signs of life from this babyany suggestions?perhaps Im jsut being too paranoid and OC?
F2al250v Fuse
Q: 1997 Chrysler Sebring w/2.5L V6.Customer complaint: Blows 20A ASD fuse - sometimes twice in one day, other times runs fine for more than a week.I can duplicate the problem about every 4-5 minutes. I have installed an amp meter in the ASD fuse socket - when I jerk the throttle open the meter will pin to 40+ amps (very intermittant. It might take several times to duplicate.) It quickly returns to the normal 3-5 amp draw - often quickly enough that it doesn't even trip a 20A circuit breaker in series with the amp meter (but instantly blows the fuse if it is inserted)Unfortunately, more often than not, the circuit breaker will trip.I am at my wits end on this one. I have checked and rechecked the wiring and components associated with the ASD relay feeds. Obviously - I'm missing the problem!Any tips would be greatly appreciated - Thanks.
Leanne, are you a Chrysler tech? First I kind of find it odd that GTC thinks that the ASD receives inputs from the fuel pump, crank sensor, distb and others since the JTEC pcm receives inputs and outputs and controls the ASD. You are getting some kind of short or power ground. If you are a tech, you should call Chrysler's tech line and run it by them, if you aren't, and you have ALLDATA you will need to get a diagram and trace every wire in the harness that is connected to the ASD fuse and relay, and if all is ok I would look in to replacing the JTEC but only as a last resort Oh and any fault codes?
Q: I tried to add a new radio to it. The wires touched each other, a spark. I tried to fix the fuses. I take one out while the car is on. And I try to start the car without the fuse. I did replace the fuse. The Turn signals still dont work, and neither does the dashboard light up. Why is that?
you blew a fuse. anytime you work with electronics on the car disconnect the negative on your battery. first rule or else you end up in your situation.

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