D86K insett-type three-phase ammeter
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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Application |
D86K is the same to D86 series except for the mounting dimensions and wiring methods. the ammeters are used in distribution panel and box. |
Type and meaning |
Technical parameters |
1、Meters conform to GB/T 15283 -1994 and GB/T 15282-1994 standards. |
Outline and installation dimensions |
Type and specification |
- Q: Hi I have a 32v buss AGC 15A fuse that burned out can I put my buss AGC 20 instead or do I NEED to buy the 15Thank you,Rob
- Strongly suggesting that you don't do that. Something caused the fuse to blow and putting a higher amp fuse can cause a fire or worse.
- Q: I recently bought an old 2002 Hyundai Elantra, and it runs ok, except it won't start nearly every morning. My mechanic told me the battery's most likely going. The only reason I'm thinking it's something else is because every morning when I go to start the car, there's a loud, intermittent noise coming from the fuse box; it's like a loud grinding/electrical noise that only lasts about a second at a time, but continually comes back almost on perfect rhythm (think of your directional, same sort of rhythm). Sometimes the lights will flash on and off with the noise too. Could this be something other than a bad battery? Or is it possible that these symptoms suggest a more electrical problem? Any help is greatly appreciated!
- From your description, I understand that indeed there is an electrical problem. I would start with what is called wiggle test. While engine is running, try gently to wiggle the fuse box back and forward. Should you find any abnormalities in engine running or engine stalls or anything that shouldn't be doing out of the ordinary, you can say that the fuse box is your problem. If all good, secondly I would remove the fuse box and do a pin test on all fuse box connectors from under the box (wiring harness that plugs into fuse box). This will tell you if any male connector is loose. Should you have any loose connectors, just close them up a tiny bid so that they wont move. Before you put the box back, apply some electrical stabilant to ensure proper conductivity on all electrical components. This procedure could be time consuming but is well worth it to try. Finally, before you do all these actions please, have someone doing an AVR test to ensure your battery is good and entire charging/starting system is normal. Hope this will help you.
- Q: I have a 400w/1000w dc to ac power inverter. Every time I power it on, the 40A fuse blows even with no load. I tried a direct connection to the battery and it still blows. If anyone has an idea how to fix this please tell me.400w continuous 1000w peakinput: 12vdcoutput: 110vac@60hz
- have you looked at the owners manual ? how about the manufacturers website ?
- Q: I have a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L Automatic. Tried starting it and nothing works. What DOES WORK are the headlights, horn, door chime, brake lights, tail lights, hazards, and the interior lights. No idiot lights, radio, heater/fan, and doesn't turn over. Battery is charged. I also put a screw driver to the posts of the starter and it sparked, so juice is going to the starter. I know that it is something electrical. What puzzles me is that not even a idiot light comes on, even when I turn on the headlights, the dash lights turns on as well and that didn't come on. Does anyone know what I should look for or check? Has anyone heard of a Relay that goes bad where GM had a recall once? No answer is a stupid answer unless you tell me to check my antifreeze. Thanks!
- Check your underhood fuse panel. Great place to start. It appears you have lost a portion of the power supply to your ignition switch. All the components you have that presently work are not controlled by the ignition switch. The 50 amp ignition fuse would be the first one to check. Keep us informed. Whoever gave the thumbs down isn't being fair. It was a valid answer. No mention of checking the fuse panel was made before the answer was given. No wonder good techs don't bother here much. I don't care to be insulted either. Other techs here have given the answer of an ignition switch issue. It is a good possibility. First I would check to verify that power was getting to the switch before replacement. Glad to see you took the time to verify power to switch. You did it the proper way ! Good stuff.
- Q: Basicly I took my car to a mechanic to get a new clutch. I know that they took the battery out in order to do the job. Soon after I got my car back the subs stopped working. I took alook at all the audio components and wiring earlier today and notice that the fuse sized 40 was blown. I am talking about the fuse right next to the battery leading to the amp. I replaced it but it blew out shortly after again. The mechanic said its not his problem and now I am on here on yahoo looking for a solution. Can some one tell me were I should start looking. Thank you very much!
- turn the gain on the amp all the way down before you turn it on. then start the car and see if fuse still blows. if not, slowly turn the gain back up to a reasonable level.
- Q: 01.Transformer 02.Rectifier03.Voltageeregulatorr 04.Filter**BASICCOMPONENTSS ONLY (NOT MORE THAN 15)
- you opt for a voltage regulator, amperage concerns much less subsequently. I make uncomplicated circuits and for all people I upload a voltage regulator. considering which you're working at a extra physically powerful voltage, you're above my sort (i take advantage of 6v and below). in spite of the incontrovertible fact that, maximum high quality voltage regulators comprise geared up in cutting-edge and voltage secure practices. A voltage regulator additionally will modify the present to a particular output. verify the link below, 5 amps max (thats solid on your case). The voltage is likewise in the skill, dont be perplexed by way of the information sheet. that's unquestionably fairly user-friendly. You DO choose a multi-meter to purpose the outputs in basic terms incase. yet that would desire to do it for you guy. i'm unfamiliar with the kind of regulator I appropriate in spite of the incontrovertible fact that it is going to tolerate warmth effective judging by way of its layout and schematics, not a low priced little 1cm x1cm element. this might set you back approximately 5-12 greenbacks. based the place you purchase it, choose a soldering iron and additionally the multi meter. something with DC, i like to characteristic a diode for a circuit, stops cutting-edge/voltage from going the incorrect way. Your capacity supply might have it regular although. Edit: in spite of if that's RATED for 10 amps, it does not advise that it is going to likely be 10 amps, relies upon on the draw. Thats all it may produce. Odds are you have a low priced duel factor fuse in there. it is going to hold a solid 12 amps for 15-20 min. Volts will burn out circuits quicker than amps (yours is possibly rated for 600v), so verify that score first. As an electrician, we continuously verify volts first. OCPD (overcurrent secure practices gadget) will cease any injury. You DO choose a regulator although, to guard your amp. Edit back: Jumbilia kinda reaffirmed it. Love electric engineers!
- Q: I have a 14ft V-bottom Lund fishing boat. Use it for fishing and whatnot. It is a pretty basic boat, no previous wiring. Here is the setup I am thinking of doing.Batteries will be up front under one of my seats. I am going to parallel two 12Vs together, and then run 4 awg wire to the back of the boat. The positive side will have a 20amp fuse. I am going to run these into two ground bars, one for the positive side and one for the negative side. All my components i wanna run will then hook up to these ground bars as well. I have a trolling motor, navigation lights, and going to put a CD player in it as well. And maybe a cigarette lighter. Do i need to be worried about anything or will this work fine? Should have more fuses or run a fuse panel instead of the ground bars? Any help would be great. The wiring is expensive, and i dont want to ruin it somehow. Thanks.
- What is the total current draw if all the items are on at the same time? Example, trolling motor 6 amps, lights 10 amps, cd player 5 amps. that ads up to 21 amps peak, might be better with a 30 amp main fuse and each branch circuit has its own fuse of 10 to 15 amps capacity? Put a fuse in each branch item so one item does not take out everything. The way you have listed this, if one item goes bad and blows the fuse you lose everything. With individual fuses you only lose that item plus you know what broke down. Just a suggestion.
- Q: Describe the function and operation of these componentsTransformer.Twin and earth cable.Battery.BS 3036 Fuse.Thx for the help guys , websie links with diagrams would be much appreciated :)
- transformer:
- Q: I just purchased an corsair 750W power supply, and the input is mentioned as 90-264V 10A, Now on the plug that connects to wall socket to power it says 13A 250V (UK Pin) Now i am using it in asia, using an simple adapter but inorder to plug other things like speakers and screen i am buying an surge protector (spike guard).Now at what Amp shall i buy spike guard ? Rated 15A or 10A - As this is what available in my country. PS: The fuse power on the inbuilt fuse on the power plug is 13A. Also inform if i buy a 15A Spike guard and the usage say is only 10A is their a con like, smoking the pc components incase of sum overcurrent?
- If the inbuilt fuse is 13 amp then you certainly wouldn't use a power supply rated below it.a 10 amp would be too less a power to kick off the 13 amp if you had a surge.You need one slightly higher rated then the 13 amp.so yes.it has to be a 15 amp surge protector
- Q: I changed all the bad fuses, then I changed the switch, then I tested the motor by hooking up a 12V battery pack, and it worked just fine up and down. What else could be the problem and how do I test it?Also, the window and the door lock mechanisms don't work on the passenger front door, even from the master control on the drivers side door.
- Take a test light hit the switch up and check one of the pins to light up, hit it a couple of times, then go down you might have to switch to another pin. If it doesn't work your not getting power your fuses are good, you say the switches are good so in that case you have a broken wire somewhere usually where the door harness closes and opens also a faulty switch on the actual door can make it so the master switch doesn't work on that door either. but it sounds like you need to trace wires for a break somewhere.
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D86K insett-type three-phase ammeter
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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