High-voltage current limit fuse for transformer protection

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Scope of application

It can be used in indoor system of 50Hz and rated voltage of 12kV. Used together with other switch facilities such as loading switches, vacuum contactors, it can protect electric transformers and other electric facilities against overloading or short circuit, It is also a necessary accessory for high- voltage switch box, circular circuit cabinet, high/low voltage top - loading transformer substation.

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Outline and installation size

Q:Car blows fuse constantly that allows u to get it out of park.Changed fuse from 15amp to 20.lasted almost 2 weeks and now blowing the fuse againBrakes still work when this happens and they light up.Turn signals do not work when this happens: Some where in the circuit for the D range in you car is a short to ground weather it be right after the shifter all the way down to one of the solenoids in the transmission shift assembly? If you can find the short it'll fix right away? Have it scanned for trouble codes this might help find it? But major don't increase the fuse size this is extremely bad it will cause the wire the harness or the component it's attached to to receive vary high current this will cause the for mentioned things to burn and fail this could cause a 50-60$ repair to be at worst a 2-3000$ dollar reapir

Q:Hello. I have a Peugeot 306 1.4i (2000). My battery wasn't holding charge and having tested it it became apparent one of the cells was damaged. Having replaced the battery the car still won't start. Prior to replacement of the battery the car had needed jump starting a few times.So when I turn the key to on position the lights on my dash light up. If I try to actually start car power dies. If I try and turn main lights on from this position - power dies. Once the power has died I can turn the key and no lights will come on dash. To get juice round the car again I can wobble the battery and power seems to flow back through car. Possibly there is an issue with battery connectors?I ran a multimeter over the main fuses with the key in on position and all the main fuses in the front have 12v running across them - so fuses good I'd think. This means the starter motor could be gone and draining all power? Maybe?Any ideas / suggestions would be spot on! Cheers.: get new terminals fitted .and as suggested charge battery ,car will start ok with that done .rem to tighten battery terminals well .you said you wiggle them and lights come on . that suggests not tight enough ok .all the best .

Q:Basicly I took my car to a mechanic to get a new clutch. I know that they took the battery out in order to do the job. Soon after I got my car back the subs stopped working. I took alook at all the audio components and wiring earlier today and notice that the fuse sized 40 was blown. I am talking about the fuse right next to the battery leading to the amp. I replaced it but it blew out shortly after again. The mechanic said its not his problem and now I am on here on yahoo looking for a solution. Can some one tell me were I should start looking. Thank you very much!: turn the gain on the amp all the way down before you turn it on. then start the car and see if fuse still blows. if not, slowly turn the gain back up to a reasonable level.

Q:I have a lenovo model 0768 and I want to know what parts I should buy for it to make it a gaming laptop. I have 700 dollars to spend on it and it still has the original parts in it. Thanks for answering if you answer.: you cant make a non gaming laptop into a gaming laptop. you can do this with desktops only laptop's major components are fused to the motherboard and are not replaceable/upgradable so your only choice is to buy a new higher powered laptop

Q:I am replacing it in a UPS back up energy for my computer.please if you dont know dont answer, dont guess.: Theoretically speaking yes you can. Would it work yes it will. Will it be a healthy system I believe not. The reason is: A 5 AMP fuse can absorb more current spike before it blows up then a 4 AMP fuse. There fore it will blow up much later then the 4 AMP fuse which might cause the breakdown of your system. Another good reason why I would recommend against it is: Your circuit resistance and all electromagnetic properties are well calculated with in the original engineering of the system. If you change a component in this case increasing the AMP on a fuse will cause an increase in the resistance of the circuit. Now depends on what the circuit does and what it sets out to achieve, that change will definitely change the way the circuit transfer current and voltage.

Q:All distributor components have been replaced.As well as the starter,alternater and the cutting and crimping of new spark plug wires the battery is good and the spark plugs are clean and gaped to correct specification.: What year and make of vehicle? The distributor components are only a sub-system of the entire ignition system (associated wiring, fuses, coil(s), ignition switch, etc.etc

Q:i have determined there is no spark on my sons dirt bike and i have already eliminated the kill button but need to know how to check the coil,stater and CDI box to determine which one has failed.i dont want to go purchase all 3 if i can check these with a simple volt meter or test light.I know the basics of how the system works and know for sure the issue is not with the spark plug or a broken wire since i have traced down all wiring to maks sure it wasent that simple of a fix.: Assuming the chain and sprockets are in stable condition, approximately halfway between the front and rear sprocket the backside portion of the chain ought to circulate vertically between 25-40mm while status immediately without-one sitting on the bike, no rely if it is greater beneficial than that it may be adjusted till the slack is actual. If there is important lateral stream or the adjusters are on the minimize or any tooth are broken on the sprockets the two the sprockets and the chain must be replaced. The marks on the eccentric adjusters are publications in elementary terms and should no longer be depended on as completely precise. to make optimistic the two the wheels are in an analogous direction use 2 parallel planks the two area of the bike.

Q:I don't want any theories or speculations. I want a real documented electronic device. Oh and no ancient astronaut theories either.: Wow, very demanding for someone who needs a favor. The compass. Really. It uses electromagnetic waves to point north. The ability to recognize this and build a device that can use it was the first electronic device.

Q:1997 Chrysler Sebring w/2.5L V6.Customer complaint: Blows 20A ASD fuse - sometimes twice in one day, other times runs fine for more than a week.I can duplicate the problem about every 4-5 minutes. I have installed an amp meter in the ASD fuse socket - when I jerk the throttle open the meter will pin to 40+ amps (very intermittant. It might take several times to duplicate.) It quickly returns to the normal 3-5 amp draw - often quickly enough that it doesn't even trip a 20A circuit breaker in series with the amp meter (but instantly blows the fuse if it is inserted)Unfortunately, more often than not, the circuit breaker will trip.I am at my wits end on this one. I have checked and rechecked the wiring and components associated with the ASD relay feeds. Obviously - I'm missing the problem!Any tips would be greatly appreciated - Thanks.: Leanne, are you a Chrysler tech? First I kind of find it odd that GTC thinks that the ASD receives inputs from the fuel pump, crank sensor, distb and others since the JTEC pcm receives inputs and outputs and controls the ASD. You are getting some kind of short or power ground. If you are a tech, you should call Chrysler's tech line and run it by them, if you aren't, and you have ALLDATA you will need to get a diagram and trace every wire in the harness that is connected to the ASD fuse and relay, and if all is ok I would look in to replacing the JTEC but only as a last resort Oh and any fault codes?

Q:I have a 50cc scooter/ moped and for some reason none of the electrical components work: lights, signals, horn, fuel level dials on the dash, brake light, etc nothing electrical works.Yet for some reason the electric start still works? Why would this work and nothing else?: if you have fuses it might be that. if that isn't it, remember that all these accessories must all run from the same electrical point. trace one of those wires back toward the off/on switch until you find the problem.Have you checked the ground. some time the starter is a grounded alone. also turn one of these things on and check to see if you actually have power to it. its tough to answer this in a good way to get right to the exact problem partner.

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