RT18 Series cylinder cap fuse
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| Scope of application |
It is applicable distributing equipment in industrial electrical installation of AC 50Hz(or 60HZ), rated voltage AC400V, with rated current 63A and below, used for the function of the protection against overload or short circuit. |
| Type and meaning |
| Main technical parameter |
| Outline and installation size |
- Q: I was wondering if anybody could tell me how to find a short circuit in my car because it is draining my battery. The car has all electrical components brand new such as the alternator, starter, battery, voltage regulator and relay. The car is not blowing any fuses but drains the battery overnight. Can anybody tell me how to test for a short circuit? Thanks to everybody that helps.
- Use a test light to determine which circut is drawing power. Remove one of the battery terminals from the battery and connect the test light between the cable and tthe battery post. If there is a parasitic load the light should shine reasonably brightly. Remove fuses one at a time until the light goes out. Then you will have your short narrowed down signifigantly.
- Q: Does anyone have a picture layout of the fuse box on a beretta z26 and which components they power. I got the repair manual and it doesn't have it in there. The fuse box cover is gone so its not there. I look on the internet and still find nothing about what fuses go to what components. I believe a have a short in something that is causing charging problems. But i can not find any where the fuse layout or diagram for this f****** car anywhere! I had a problem with this a few months ago and tested the alternator and it's good. It was a fuse problem then. This time ive tested the alternator by the manual instructions and it tested good. Everything points to a short somewhere. But still no charging and no clue what to try next.
- Go to a wrecking yard and get a fuse box cover. You can also test your system yourself for a short or parasitic draw. First, shut off all the car's lights and accessories then close all the doors. With the battery in the car, first remove the negative battery terminal. Now, using a multimeter set to the DC volts scale put one probe on the negative terminal of the battery and the other probe to ground. Read the meter. If you read more than about a quarter of a volt, you have a draw somewhere. Troubleshoot the draw by having someone remove fuses one at a time until you see the meter voltage drop. When you see the voltage drop, you’ve found the circuit in which you have a power drain. Thoroughly examine that circuit, area by area, until you locate the reason for the voltage drop. Isolate and repair the problem. If this doesn't fix the problem, take extra care for a few days and see that all the lights are off before you walk away from the car for the evening. It could be something so simple as a door that hasn't closed fully, causing an interior light to remain on overnight or maybe a bad switch on an under hood or trunk light. Any of those are more than enough to do the job. I've done it myself, more than once. Usually, a full battery charge will take care of it. Even a jump start and running the car for an hour or so should build your battery up enough to get you going again as long as your alternator is doing its job.
- Q: I know you can clean a car engine by hosing it down, but I've heard you can't drive your car for a while after? Maybe because if the water evaporates too fast it will cause complications? I don't know. Also, if you can hose the engine down, what parts of the engine must stay dry. I know the intake has to, and the battery.
- Go to the auto parts store There you will find a whole shelf of degreasers and cleaning products. Carefully read the instructions on the product. Follow the instructions. If you have a Wand hand wash near you (the kind with the hand held sprayer) go there. Keep the engine running while you rinse off the engine. Stay away from the fuse box, electrical components, anything moving and the intake tract.
- Q: I accidentally left my husbands ps3 in the tv stand drawer with the door closed and running a movie. By the time i got a chance to realize i left the door shut about 3 to 5 minutes passed and the ps3 sounded like a blow dryer and a gust of heat came out. I immediately shut off the ps3. About 8 hours later my husband turned it on and put his game in, within 5 minutes the game froze shut off and the yellow light appeared than shut off.So we waited and kept trying a few hours later and i did the fan test once and the fans did not work at all and immediately shut off. Fast foward to 5 hours the ps3 now turns on but it's glitched out and is freezing so we shut it off so it doesn't over heat and damage the motherboard. What can we do to repair it? We know the fan is broken so we'll repair that but how do we know the connector for the fan to the motherboard isn't shot?
- your husband might be wanting to kill you now haha
- Q: For example:RresistorCCapacitorLinductorVtubeQtransistorIs there a complete list of normal component designations?
- May be this will help you: ?A: Assemblies ?B: Transducers / Sensors / Detectors ?C: Capacitors ?D: Storage devices ?E: Miscellaneous ?F: Fuses ?G: Generator, battery pack ?H: Indicators, signaling devices ?J: Connector / connector pin Joining another connector (P) ?K: Relays ?L: Inductors and filters ?M: Motors ?N: Analogue devices ?P: Measuring / test point / connector plug ?Q: Transistors ?R: Resistors ?S: Switches, push buttons, emergency stops and limit switches ?T: Transformers ?U: Integrated circuits, Power converters, DC power supplies ?V: Electron vacuum tubes tubes ?W: Wires, conductors, power, neutral and earthing busses ?X: Terminal strips, terminations, joins ?Y: Solenoids, electrical actuators ?Z: Filters
- Q: could it be something other than the whole component.A friend of mine who is an auto detailer thought it could be a loose wire or fuse or something.Please let me know. It will save me $ 80 more or less
- There's a small module that works the middle brake light behind the left side wall cover in the rear. It's not a fuse because the same fuse works the other brake lights. It takes 5 minutes to learn to use a $15 voltmeter. If you can't bother to do that, get use to paying $80 an hour.
- Q: I have a problem. I have an outlet that has a computer with a 500w psu, stereo, printer, two monitors, and a external hdd. The problem is that the outlet fuse keeps blowing and I cant figure out why. Im pretty sure im not exceeding the maximum power usage and I have already replaced the outlet. Im worried that one of my components may be shorting and leaking current but I dont know how to check. I do know however that it has nothing to do with the electrical infrastructure of my house because my father is using the exact same outlet now for his computer and hes not experieced the outlet blow yet.How can i find out which component is cause the problem?
- Each component that you plug into the outlet should have an ID plate stating the watts (power) or the VA (volt-amps) [same thing]. The total should not exceed 1500 Watts. I would guess that the outlet (receptacle) is a standard two slot outlet (handles two plugs only). If it has the 2 straight flat blade (vertical) one shorter than the other, it is rated for 1500 watts (15amps of current). If both of these flat blade slots have a horizontal slot (notch) in the middle of each blade, it is for 2000 watts or 20 Amps of currant. It sounds like you are using a power strip of some sort (most are switched with a red pilot light and maybe even a 15 amp breaker as protection). Of course the wiring to that outlet should be 12/2 AWG wire and the fuse or breaker should be 20 Amps. Again the maximum load should be no more than 2000 watts total. (About the same as a space heater). If you total up the ID plates of each electrical appliance you have connected you will find that over a long period of time if you are running pretty close to that limit and the fuse or breaker gets tired. Heat is the culprit. You total up the watts of the hdd, two monitors and maybe the stereo (PA). I don't think your printer or external hard drive draw that much. Also you should have room around your equipment for ventilation. Good Luck - I hope this helps.
- Q: All other components of the car, lights, ac, signals, all work. It is just the fuse that keeps blowing. I replace it, and when I try to start the car, it blows.
- you have a short to ground.
- Q: 2.8 manual trans blows ecm b fuse in the under dash fuse box. Changed relays(2), fuel pump and ecm. It might be the fuel pump primer but I don't know where it is located.When I bypass the relay the fuel pump runs but when I try to start the engine while it's bypassed the bypass wire from the positive battery post gets red hot. The engine used to start while wired in this fashion when the fuse would fail. Now the fuse fails all the time.
- You have a direct short in the ECM B circuit. When you bypass the fuse you destroy the harness, fuses are to protect the harness and the components they are connected to. They protect the ECM. The B circuit usually is the power circuit for the fuel pump, through the relay. Check the harness for continuity from the relay connector to ground from the fuel pump power supply wire I think it's tan/wht. If there is you have a short and you will need to pinpoint where. but you have probably already melted the harness together. Good luck. It might have been cheaper to hire a professional mechanic shop.
- Q: I have a Rover 420 GSI with an electrical problem. Battery drains over about 40 hours. Replaced it with a new battery. The alternator has also been tested. There is a 4A current being drawn all the time from the battery, when the car is turned off (overnight). I have tried removing all the fueses I can find but nothing makes it drop. I am no great electrical expert. owever, Ive tried removing the Alternator and fan out of line. As it wears down the battery the battery light starts indicating on the dashboard. I am guessing there is a relay or something held open. Is there some easy way of testing them? Thanks.
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RT18 Series cylinder cap fuse
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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