RT18 Series cylinder cap fuse

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Scope of application

It is applicable distributing equipment in industrial electrical installation of AC 50Hz(or 60HZ), rated voltage AC400V, with rated current 63A and below, used for the function of the protection against overload or short circuit.

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Outline and installation size

Q: I posted yesterday about my TV. Now mind you I'm not an educated electrician but I'm no amatuer either. I have repaired our microwave, dryer, dishwasher to name a few. So I took our not working TV apart yesterday and found a blown fuse. Is there only one fuse to replace by the way? We live in a small town with no stores, so I decided to take a fuse out of one of our other TV's. It said it was a 125/ 4A just like the other one. I got it put in, put the TV back together, plugged it in and POP. There was a big pop, small spark at outlet. What did I do wrong? Shouldn't the fuse have been the same? Any suggestions or idea's. My friend is taking the old fuse to the store to get a new one, should I try this again or will it make more problems? Thanks Everyone for reading.: I think this is one of the biggest mistakes that most people with some knowledge make. Televisions are very complicated and sensitive electronics. If you do not have any training you SHOULD NOT FOR ANY REASON TRY AND REPAIR ONE YOURSELF. Instead of having a dead fuse, you might have just ruined your tv. You might have had a static discharge which in turn might have fried your TV all together. Not to mention the amount of voltage that runs through your tv. It probably couldn't have killed you, but you could have gotten a very bad electric schock. PLEASE do yourself a favor and just take it to a shop next time, might spend more money, but at least you're not putting your health at risk!

Q: i tried hooking up the positive to the fuse buss but it shorted out a couple fuses i may have gotten the wires confused: The positive wire goes to an accessory wire (or a blank accessory terminal in your fuse block if so equiped). The other wire goes to ground. It has to be ground to the metal of the car. All of the electrical components in your car are grounded to the car. The electricity comes from the battery through the wires to the components, goes through the components then returns to the battery using the metal of the car (aka the chassis). Also, add a fuse to the wire if there isn't one already. A live wire in the car without a fuse is very dangerous.

Q: I have checked the voltage at the disconnect and the breaker. They are fine. I have checked the display connection and that is okay. Where do I go from there? Any help would be appreciated. Thanks: I have a beachcomber tub and it has System fuses if one of them are blown my panel will go deadhave you tried sundance service ?

Q: I needs to locate it in order to change the fuse to work the heated seats and i am having a hard time locating it. I have read the user manual by the way and its very unclear to where it actually is!: This was not the case on my 99 Couger. Fords Hidden central fusebox and this is applicable to many models and not just the Couger. After much googling I located the whereabouts of the Central fuse box,its not easy even when you know where its supposed to be? I posted this on another forum The central fuse box is located under the glove box,you need to take down the foot well trim.Its not easy to see use a torch there is a small button which you pull to lower the fusebox then you can pull the fusebox towards you to access the fuses.There seems to be lots of people with this problem and seems to be a stupid place to hide a fusebox and seems designed to drag you into a main dealer for a petty fault.My own fault was a central locking boot release problem a simple case of replacing the 20 amp fuse and freeing off the boot release key barrel with WD 40 at least ?200 @ your friendly dealer.

Q: HEELLLLLLLLLLLLLLLLPPPPP!!!!!!!!: Yesi had the same problem with my stereo. Kept burning them up. Your voltage regulator is bad. The voltage regulator is an internal component in the alternator by 1987. Easiest way to decipher this would be to get a volt meter, put the positive lead to the battery power on the back of the alternator, and ground the black lead. IStart the truck, and if your alternator is putting out more that 14.4 volts, you have an issue. you should check it at idle, as well as when you rev up the engine, as the faster it spins, the more energy it creates. If you are not comfortable doing this, you can also remove the alternator and have it tested at a local auto parts storethey can check it for you.

Q: Hey, just a bit of physics revision and I was wondering if anyone knew the function of these circuit components, what they do in the circuit, what they measure, why it's needed, etc. Here are the components in a circuit I need to know about:SwitchCellBatteryDiodeResistorVariable resistor LampFuseVoltmeterAmmeterThermistorI.D.R (What does that stand for?!)It would be great to go into detail of what they really do, although some may seem quite straight forward, and just common sense! Even if you don't know them all, or you just know a few, the explanations still help :) Thanks!: Switch- Turns the circuit on. Cell- Basically, a single battery Battery- A pair of cells. Diode- A semiconductor device with two terminals, typically allowing the flow of current in one direction only. Resistor-A resistor is an electrical component that limits or regulates the flow of electrical current in an electronic circuit. Variable Resistor- A variable resistor is a potentiometer with only two connecting wires instead of three. Lamp- A device for giving light, either one consisting of an electric bulb, together with its holder and shade or cover, or one burning gas or a liquid fuel. Fuse-an electrical device that can interrupt the flow of electrical current when it is overloaded. Voltmeter- A device that measures Volts. Ammeter- A device that measures Amps. Thermistor-A resistor whose resistance varies as a function of temperature. Thermistors are used in electrical devices such as thermometers and thermostats that measure, monitor, or regulate temperature. I.D.R- Interval data recorder.

Q: I have the pyle dryver chopper series 15''inch subs claiming 4000 each speaker (yea right) not a very good brand but it was what i could afford well my fuzes in my amp blew each being 35 and since its so hard to find a fuze thats 35 i did 40 and 30 to equal 70 total well now my fuzes keep blowin and my speakers dont work i changed my wire from 6g to 0 g and replaced the fuze near the battery from 60A to 250A and checked my wires my grounds ok. im thinking my amps fried or blown or something do i just need a better amp? if so any suggestions? im new to sound systems: 1 rule with fuses.you NEVER insert a fuse with a different fuse rating then what its supposed to handlethis can fry certain components in your car, like your amp. most likely frying your amp is the case, get a better amp that can actually handle the 4000w (or 2000w RMS) at the given impedence.

Q: I have a bad battery in my Tercel 99, so I jumped the battery with another car. But I did a mistake by letting the positive negative of the jumping cable touch each others. So I guess that my fuses are dead, the car won't start again, even with the jumped battery (I get no power at all).Which fuses should I check to replace them?: I assume u are saying they touched after connecting them to the Toy before connecting to other vehicle. Just for tomorrow - clip the loose - free clip which will go to the starting vehicle around the wires. Then after u have connected to the dead battery and after u connect the + clip to the starting battery, remove the - clip and attach that. when jumping batteries, one places the cables on the battery terminals. The only way to get a fuse to blow is to place the cable someplace else so the current will flow thru the fuse. If u did that, then I would start with the fusable link usually the first thing u come to off the + terminal of the battery going to the other fuses. It is possibly integrated into the + terminal. The starter cable does not have a fuse on it. It goes directly from the battery + to the starter. Now, is it possible to damage other components like a PCM. Not hardly. Since there is now way to draw current thru it by shorting leads out. Is it possible to damage an alternator? Maybe depending on where u clipped the cable. If u connected to the alternator, u may have a problem here. Lesson, NEVER connect + lead to anything but the battery terminal. NOW, when u try 2 jump it do u get any spark when attaching the - lead (after the + always). If not, maybe the cables are open. I assume the other vehicle still works.

Q: checked all wires under hood and car, couldn't find any shorts. car will start and run but after awhile it will shut off or when it's put into gear.: if it shuts off when you put it in gear you need to check the mounts real good in it,it may have a broken engine mount,and that may be allowing it to break ground ,this will cause it to stall out,and blow a fuse,because when you loose the ground wire,you loose power to some of the inside components,such as the computer,and this will make them blow fuses sometimes,its worth a try,good luck with it.

Q: I have 2 12inch subs in a ported box in my trunk facing back would the bass be any better if i turned them facing front or does it matter ? The bass in the car is massive but out side not to much except you can hear the trunk rattle i want more bass to the front not the back. i want to rattle the car in front of me not the behind me .On a different matter what makes the subs hum when the amp is on and the car is running the amp kit is new the amp is a dual 600 watt 4 channel amp and it is bridged 8 gauge power and 8 gauge ground in line fuse twisted component wires(RCA Cables) and nothing touching or any open wires: NO, turning the subs around will not produce a better sound(vibration) unless the subs front wall is completely cealed off from the trunk which means you would have to have a custom box. but in most cases like yours it will actually reduce the sound. the trunk is basically a expansion area.bass extension comes from space within the trunk. the trunks surface area resonates the subs movement and redirects it into the cabinet. that's why you lose sound pressure when you open the trunk. this fundamental is quite complex actually and requires tuning of the box and subwoofer. a good way to increase sound pressure and extend the subs motion into the cabinet is by making a port into the cabinet for example letting a seat down or if you have a armrest that has a trunk opening area, that can be used as a port to allow the sub woofer to resonate the area within the cabinet but this can also allow more subwoofer distortion to be heard aswell. it requires alot a padding and dampening material to reduce the amount of sounds leakage and rattle distortion. you have an improper amp for sub woofers is probably the reason why you might not feel proper lows. the humming sound can be from a variety of reasons. but the sound itself is distortion from either improper filtering, or a lack of energy to the amp, if you have the gains set high on the amp you are over the distortion limit and are probably under powering the amp to produce a proper wattage and normal levels. OR you are getting distortion from your head unit, which is not uncommon. what type of subwoofer and amplifier do you have by the way.

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