• RT18 Series cylinder cap fuse System 1
RT18 Series cylinder cap fuse

RT18 Series cylinder cap fuse

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Scope of application

It is applicable distributing equipment in industrial electrical installation of AC 50Hz(or 60HZ), rated voltage AC400V, with rated current 63A and below, used for the function of the protection against overload or short circuit.


Type and meaning
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Outline and installation size


Q: Hi I have a 32v buss AGC 15A fuse that burned out can I put my buss AGC 20 instead or do I NEED to buy the 15Thank you,Rob
As the other poster said it is usually safe short term. The real question is what caused the fuse to blow in the first place. If you know you did something that caused it to blow (like caused a temporary ground on the positive side with an errant screwdriver), then it is very safe to overfuse the circuit until you can buy a new fuse. If you don't know why the fuse blew, by putting in a 20 where a 15 belongs, you are going to allow 5 more amps of pressure on that circuit. This added amperage could allow the circuit to remain active when it shouldn't and result in damage further down the path. Even if it's just a clock fuse, you could be courting a hot wire that might melt and cause real damage to expensive components. In the future when you post, indicate the car year, make, model and in the case of a fuse, what it supports in the car. For instance if this were a BMW 3 series E46 they are known to have taillight issues due to poor grounding. So with more information, the answer you receive here might be more informative. Good luck
Q: I am looking for an electronic store that could resemble JK Electronics and Torrance Electronics that have a wide assortment of AC transformers, diodes, bridge rectifiers, Digital to analog converters, several types of capacitors, inductors, led's, resistors, fuses and stuff along these lines for small projects from school. I tried several Radio shacks and they just don't have the type of components I need for my projects.Its hard for me to get to these stores because I live far from them. If anyone knows of such store near Lakewood or Long Beach I would really appreciate it.Thanks
Sorry I don't know the stuff you are referring to, but maybe Net Electronics in Downey. It's on Firestone Blvd between Paramount and Downey Ave.
Q: I have an old 1998 dodge stratus and it keeps blowing the ignition fuel starter fuse(20A). I replace it 4 times and they failed. Can someone tell me what's going on and I can get over this?
The ignition fuel and starter are all on the same circuit?? Seems odd, but possible I guess. Your going to have to get an amperage draw test done on the individual components of the system and see which one is drawing enough amps to melt the fuse. Could be the components, the wiring (not likely) or the control module (rare). Also could be a short to ground or short to power. Sounds confusing but I bet it's faulty internal starter windings causing the problem. Have the starter removed and professionally tested by a reputable auto electric shop not a parts guy that thinks he's a mechanic. Also if it's a manual transmission car try parking it on hills and roll starting it to verify the problem if this is possible.
Q: I have a 2000 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L Automatic. Tried starting it and nothing works. What DOES WORK are the headlights, horn, door chime, brake lights, tail lights, hazards, and the interior lights. No idiot lights, radio, heater/fan, and doesn't turn over. Battery is charged. I also put a screw driver to the posts of the starter and it sparked, so juice is going to the starter. I know that it is something electrical. What puzzles me is that not even a idiot light comes on, even when I turn on the headlights, the dash lights turns on as well and that didn't come on. Does anyone know what I should look for or check? Has anyone heard of a Relay that goes bad where GM had a recall once? No answer is a stupid answer unless you tell me to check my antifreeze. Thanks!
Check your fuses. Those that are under the hood and inside your car. If they are good then you'll need to test the power in your power distributor box to make sure the proper amount of electric charge is being sent to various fuses.
Q: I got a new engine put in my saturn about 5 months ago, about 3 weeks after I got the engine put in the power locks and dome light stopped working. The alarm on my car would randomly go off if I set the alarm on it and then about 2 days later they just stopped working. I checked the fuse by my passenger seat, it is fine. I am not sure how to check if the relay is good though. If is not the relay what would be my next course of action?Thanks so much,Jordan
Sumner may be good even though it can also be a twin undertaking. verify the fuse first if that's not it then it would want to be the module that controls the locks, ooops thats not a fuse difficulty,(in basic terms examine the entire script) feels like a twine difficulty that occured even as the mechanic replaced into lower than the hood. might want to be so easy as a floor twine left unhooked. take it back and characteristic them staggering it.
Q: car will not start, could it be some thing to do with time for oil change. Have new starter andd battery. Still can not turn motor over. Turn key loud clicking from fuse box under seat!
It could be your time-n-change. A oil change will not stop your car from starting.
Q: Help me please. My son installed a battery into his 99 ford escort. However he attached neg to pos and pos to neg. Can this fry out the alternator. Or could it simply be something electrical. There was a wire left off, going to somewhere. And a black wire coming from the internal fuse box.
Every vehicle has a main fuse, or fusible link to avoid damage to electrical components. Check EVERY fuse under the hood, and inside the vehicle. Chances are the Main fuse (usually 80-120 AMP) is blown, and possibly a couple others here and there. If the vehicle has fusible links (a loop, or section of wire specifically made to burn away), then replace them with new ones. I don't know where the other wires are you are referring tobut if you don't know where they go, hit a junkyard, and use the same type of vehicle as a reference.
Q: I have 5mm LEDs that Im using to make automotive tail lights with and I need to know what I use for surge protection.
No surge protection is required, and as for fusing, use a normal-blow fuse rated about 20% higher than the current normally drawn by the lights.
Q: I accidentally switched-on my computer from US that is set to 115 Volts. Power at home is 220 Volts. What could be the components that were damaged inside the power supply?
If this is a desktop power supply as laptop supplies should be auto-detecting/switching, it would probably be cheaper and less hassle to just replace the supply being that you can pick one up for $20-$60 average depending on brand/wattage. Switching power supplies can be a pain to work on and then trying to find those hard-to-find transistors is no fun
Q: around ignition fuse. 98 dodge ram.
If you hear a click in the fuse panel, that's your starter relay closing. That's a good thing. That means you have power up to that point. Test your relay contacts in the base across 30 and 87 to see if power is going through the thing once the switch is closed. If so, it sounds like you have a mechanic who likes to replace component after component until the problem goes away. But the reality is, in wiring problems, the problems is usually in the wiring. Have a voltage drop test done from the battery to your starter. Ask for this specifically. Allot of mechanics think voltage drop is for the class room and once the last test is written, the math is over and done with, but keeping that stuff in mind can tell you allot of why things aren't working.

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