• CDB7LE Series Residual Current Circuit Breakers System 1
CDB7LE Series Residual Current Circuit Breakers

CDB7LE Series Residual Current Circuit Breakers

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
-

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
Applicable Range
Normal Usage and Mounting Conditions
Applicable Standards
Main Technology Data


Q: explain
They are used to protect the circuit from overloads, this prevents fires and protects components of the circuit.
Q: I just asked a question about my 2006 trailblazer with 48,000 miles. The service engine light does not come on when I turn the key over, neither does the seat belt light. What worries me is that I see a scuff in the dash where the screw is to remove the dash. The car hasn't given me trouble and I took it to chevrolet to have a work up done on it, and it was hooked up to a computer and no warnings came up, but WHY would that light not work? I am guessing somebody has probably tampered with it, and trying to screw me over, but its actually been a marvelous car so far. Chevrolet told me that the light is tamper proof, but I don't see how. Couldn't they just pull it out, or color it with a marker or something? I hate having the wool pulled over my eyes and it pisses me off to think someone would do that.
should come on with key in the on position/have it plugged into obd and check/also go out and while its running take off the electric conn to air flow meter/that should lite it immediately
Q: have issue with couple of thing on a ford galaxy 1999 2.3 ghia w/airconis there a relay box in it as checked all fuses for the issuse i have and i lost even with the propper manual, rear passenger door wont open or window wont work, air con not workin and the blower that you can switch on to let air at ya face for cold or hot not working. now i havew done loads to the car and so far ive done well but this is bugging - can anyone help. what things have i missed.
Jay the controls for the windows and door are likely a problem in the drivers side control switches as this works as the main switch for all doors. I have seem this often when someone installed door speakers and unhooked the wires from the way they were tied down. the window came down and pulled them damaging the the wires. The A/C system and heater are hard to call over the computer but I can tell you the fan portion is not connected directly to either. it is a rheostat. a dimmer of sorts. The actual fan motor is built with a power and ground connection and is like all other electric 2 wire motors, a positive and a negative. If the motor isn't frozen inside the motor will spin even if the two wires are switched around as this is only changing it's polarity. what will happen though is your fan will draw air out of the cabin instead of pushing air in. It uses a connection screwed into the air box to control the various speeds. the power enters this device and then used power reducing components internally to slow the motor down or speed it up. your switch on the dash for fan speed feeds this controller. If you are saying you are getting no air to your face but the fan is blowing, I think you will find its blowing on the dash board. maybe the feet as well. This is a factory installed default for a problem in the heater or A/C directing system. It was determined that the most critical thing a driver needs when driving is a clear windshield in the cold of winter. You must be able to see ahead and can bundle up with clothes to keep warm. If the system looses the vacuum needed to run the directional doors to send air to your face etc springs will close the doors and direct the air to the windshield over every other place.
Q: I had lab and I don't quite understand why I did what we did. We used an analog and digital VOM and used it to record the ohms and volts of various electrical components. I was wondering why when using the analog that different devices read completely different ohm readings. Take for example, our Buss fuse didn't even make the needle move, but the diode and the resistor made it go to infinite ohms. How do I figure out what they are supposed to read, and what to expect before going to lab. I couldn't find anything in my book or the lab manual. Also, I was wondering why a resistor would measure outside of its' tolerance range. Is this because it was faulty? Any help is appreciated.
Because the fuse is supposed to just create a short circuit when the current is larger than what it's supposed to be. the fuse must conduct therefore it won't have a large resistance whereas a resistor such as a light bulb or any other load is clearly to have high resistance, as the name resistor indicates.
Q: I'm doing some wiring and I do not quite understand the difference between AC12v and DC12v. I need an item to run on DC12v, Can I simply clip the wires on my object that needs DC12v and connect the appropriate ends to the appropriate battery terminals?Please do not answer (12v) ^^ Thanks!
AC 12 v probably does not exist. ac is household power source. DC 12v is car battery output, you can take power for a limited period from your car battery. depending on the amperage needed (drain on power) and condition of battery you can expect an hour for a colour t.v. to 12hrs for a radio or medium torch. at this point you will need to recharge, it is important not to completely flatten the battery, unlike ni-cads this is harmful to car batteries, you will get better results from a proper leisure battery, as used in caravans/motor homes
Q: i have a samsung ln26b360c5d the picture quit working doesnt come on at all but if you push the power button it still does the sound it makes when coming on and the sound it makes when shutting off, i took the back off and there was a fuse blown the board says fm802s 250v/ t2. oah i want to replace the fuse but i dont know wich one to buy seeing as how i cant find any fuse that says that.
Any 2 amp 250 volt fuse that fits will work but chances are that some other problem caused the fuse to blow and the replacement will blow also. Good Luck
Q: i have got an 8 valve EFI k reg convertabile and i have only side lights working. i have no normal driving lights,no full beam and no ,rev counter,no fuel gage and no ignition lights.As soon as i put the ignition on the fuse 27 blows and the battary light comes on,can anybody out there help?
I haven't a clue what a k reg is, but the answer above is correct, you have to have a short to ground somewhere or the fuse wouldn't blow. You could have an electrical component with an internal short which is more likely than a frayed or broken wire. .
Q: connectors on the backglass. no damage to the defroster grid. is there an inline fuse in the lift gate that i might have missed, or could the switch be bad and still light up?
You won't get power to grid because it goes to ground. You'll have to unplug it at the connector near the grid and read the grid with an ohm meter. If it's open, you may be able to see where its damaged. Sometimes when you clean or scrape frost from the inside glass, or maybe when you loaded something the grid got damaged. . The grid can be damaged pretty easy. Your favorite auto supply will have a repair kit for your defroster grid. You won't see wires go from the body of the car to the components of the tail gate.There is a pressure connector that makes this connection. On one side there will be a plate with dividers on it. On the other side you'll see the pins that are spring loaded. They line up and touch each other when the tail gate is closed. They stick out about 1/4 inch. You can clean this plate with a pencil eraser. Do the same with the pins. Use a little di electric grease on them. This is where the tailgate components are grounded. These components are activated by switching the ground. That's why you won't read power at the component.
Q: I have a 50cc scooter/ moped and for some reason none of the electrical components work: lights, signals, horn, fuel level dials on the dash, brake light, etc nothing electrical works.Yet for some reason the electric start still works? Why would this work and nothing else?
if you have fuses it might be that. if that isn't it, remember that all these accessories must all run from the same electrical point. trace one of those wires back toward the off/on switch until you find the problem.Have you checked the ground. some time the starter is a grounded alone. also turn one of these things on and check to see if you actually have power to it. its tough to answer this in a good way to get right to the exact problem partner.
Q: I tried to add a new radio to it. The wires touched each other, a spark. I tried to fix the fuses. I take one out while the car is on. And I try to start the car without the fuse. I did replace the fuse. The Turn signals still dont work, and neither does the dashboard light up. Why is that?
Most likely, you still need to replace the rear lights fuse. Most domestic and imports were built to show no light on the dash board in order to indicate that rear lights are not on working order. For the signal light, you must replace the dimmer. The dimmer is a cylinder shaped component (about 1.5 inches diameter) typically located on the same fuse block. Just pull it out and replace it with a new one. Good luck!

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords