DIN 24255 Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
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End Suction Centrifugal Pump
1.Structure of End Suction Centrifugal Pump Description
End Suction Centrifugal Pump complies fully to the European Standard BS EN733 / DIN24255 of performance and dimensions. They are used for pumping clean water or liquids similar to water, achieving wide application on plants, mines, city water supplies, air-conditioning coolers, firefighting system and irrigation. Pumps of the same model have different performance levels basing on different diameter after impeller trimming. Overall the whole series, there are only four sizes of shaft and five of bearing housing. As long as their bearing housings are of the same size, different pumps can interchange chief parts such as shaft, shaft sleeve, shaft seal, impeller nut, etc.
End Suction Centrifugal Pump is also very easy to be installed and maintained. Back pull-out design, driven through flexible coupling, so that pump casing and motor can remain in position while other spare parts are removed.
2.Main Features of the End Suction Water Pump
• very easy to be installed and maintained
•Back pull-out design
•Driven through flexible coupling
•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.
•Horizontally and vertically installation as different pipeline system
3.End Suction Water Pump Specification
Design | Performance and dimensions referring to BS EN733/DIN24255 |
Structure | Horizontal,Axial,End-Sution,Single-Stage,Single-Sution,Volute,Casing,Back,Pull-out, Centrifugal Pump |
Flange | DIN2501(ISO7005.2/GB/T17241.6 PN1.6)Standard, ANSI B16.5 Class150lb optional) |
Rotation | Clockwise viewing from the drive side |
Casing | Cast Iron Standard, Ductile Iron, Stainless Steel Optional |
Impeller | Bronze Standard ,Cast Iron, Stainless Steel Optional |
Shaft | ASTM420Standard,ASTM304,ASTM316,ASTM1045 Optional |
Shaft Seal | Mechnical Seal, Gland Pakcing Optional |
Flow rate | 2-1100m3/h |
Head | 2-152m |
Speed | 1450 or 2900(50hz),1750 or 3500(60hz) |
Working Pressure | 1.6PMa or 2.0PMa |
4.Picture of End Suction Pump
5.FAQ
① What is your product range?
Centrifugal pump, slurry pump, gravel pump, clean water pump, sewage pump, chemical pump, single stage
pump, double suction pump, industry pump, oil pump, paper pulp pump, mud pump, self-priming pump, pipe
water pump, boiler water pump, etc.
② Are you a manufacturer?
Yes, we have been in manufacturing and marketing industry centrifugal pump over 20 years.
③ What information should I let you know if I want to get a quotation?
Pump capacity, pump head, medium, medium temperature, pump material, quantity, if possible, please also provide the pump model you are using now, price will be calculated as per the pump model, if not, we will recommend relevant product for reference.
- Q: i have a 1994 honda accord lx. i was wondering what the water pump is for and if it goes bad can i still drive around without it thanks
- This Site Might Help You. RE: 1994 honda accord lx water pump what does it do? i have a 1994 honda accord lx. i was wondering what the water pump is for and if it goes bad can i still drive around without it thanks
- Q: I am putting in a new water pump this morning on my 2006 chevy trail blazer and i rented the clutch fan removal tools but im new at this and i cant afford anyone else to do it. any advice for a rookie it looks so simple am i wrong
- It is very easy and straightforward. The hardest part is the fan clutch unless you have the proper tools. You have that part covered. DO NOT USE ANY SILICONE SEALER!!!!! Be sure all traces of old gasket are removed and install the new gasket dry. Use an anaerobic sealer on the wet bolts. Those are the ones that are through drilled into the water passages. Clean off the threads then use a light coat of sealer. I use either Permatex (brown stuff in the tube) or pipe joint dope. Now is also a great time to flush the system, replace thermostat, and drive belt(s).
- Q: Have a Toyota RAV4. About 156, 000 miles on it.Yesterday as I started driving, there was a sound coming from underthe hood that sounded similar to a stick in bicycle spokes. Got to theend of the block and stopped and noticed there was smoke comingfrom below the belts.Got back to the house and the temp was up really high. No fluid.Added fluid and water and it was leaking, but not from the radiatoritself, but from towards the back of the engine?Might this be the water pump?
- Nope, could be a bad heater hose that burst. Could be an engine gasket but it will be more issues. I am more inclined if is like you described towards the back of the engine, is the water hose for the heater or the valve that controls the flow.
- Q: I recently took my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix in for an oil change, and was told that my water pump has burst. I knew something happened the previous night because all of a sudden my car was overheating and when I opened the hood there was water everywhere, Anyways I am currently a single mom, working temp jobs while I look for something permanent. I can not afford the 350.00 to get it fixed. If I continue to drive the car am I looking at serious damage, He showed me how to fill the water tank (or whatever) so that the car will not be empty, But he says I need to get it fixed soon
- I will try to put this simply. It is very serious. Water cools your engine and without the pump to circulate it, your engine will overheat and very quickly damage itself. Even if you add water constantly, it is not being circulated, your engine will overheat and the new water you will put in will probably instantly boil and rush up into your face. My advice. Don't drive it until you can get it fixed. Sorry, I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but I am concerned for your safety and I don't want you to wreck your engine and you will if you keep driving it. The damage you can do is like this. The engine overheats and seizes up. This means that the engine parts, pistons and rings have expanded beyond design limits. They break inside and wreak havoc. The crankshaft and big end bearings can seize also. If all this happens, you are looking at a reconditioned engine. Fix your pump. It's cheaper
- Q: I have been given a project to build a windmill driven water pump. So far, a lot of the books I've researched only give me info on how a water pump works. Can anyone help me with this? Thanks in advance
- How Do Windmills Pump Water
- Q: i was coming home from from work and my jeep thew the serpenteen belt and my water pump is the only pulley not moving good like the rest and is leaking coolent. and people with just dump **** to say dont comment on this
- With either engine your jeep cherokee would have a 2.5 or 4.0. Both have the same pump, and the 2.5 would be easier because you would have more space from the smaller engine. But there not hard to replace. A repair manual would be help full if you have never replaced a water pump before.
- Q: Multi storey residential buildings also need to set up pressurized water pump room, direct water supply can not be?
- The tap water supply pressure is enough, so there is no need to pressurize.
- Q: Is it normal for my sump pump hole to be empty. No water in there.. ??
- I wish my hubby were home to answer- but I think it HAS to remain in the water. It will burn the pump up if it is dry. A sump pump is meant to be submersed... all the time. You may need a new pump now anyway. You might be burning it up. hope that helps!
- Q: I am replacing the water pump and want to know exactly where the two o-rings go
- There are several rubber seals on a water pump. The biggest irregular shaped seal is obviously for the main portion of the pump (this can not be misinterpreted for something else). The next in size is the o-ring for the thermostat. And 2 additional O-rings (one smaller than the other) are for the return pipes. While removing/pulling out the pump, take care that the pipes do not get pulled outward by the pump. And when putting in the pump just gingerly align the pipes to the holes in the pump and you are good to go.
- Q: 94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks
- It's not the pump that's leaking. The water ports to the pump pass through the aluminum timing cover, over time the aluminum corrodes and leaks between the block and the timing cover. You need to remove the whole works and replace the timing cover, may as well do the timing chain since you're in there.
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DIN 24255 Horizontal Centrifugal End Suction Water Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 10000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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