Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 300 unit/month
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Performance of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
Flow Range:5-1500m3/h
Head Range:10-300m
Power Range:1.1-250kw
Temperature:-20ºC-120ºC
Material:Cast Iron,Stainless Steel
Work Pressure:≤1.6MPa
Products Overview of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
XBC type diesel engine fire pump is a new type of fire-fighting product that strictly according to the national standard GB6245 "fire pump performance requirements and testing methods" criteria, this series have wide head, flow range, can fully meet various occasions fire water supply in the warehouse, docks and airports, petroleum chemical industry, power plant, liquefied gas station, textile and other industrial and mining enterprises.
Product has the characteristics of easy starting, strong overload ability, compact structure, convenient maintenance, simple use, high automation degree, it is a kind of advanced, reliable fire-fighting equipment.
Working Conditions of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
1. Altitude: ≤2,500 meters
2. Environmental temperature: - 25 ~ 55 ºC
3. Relative humidity: 9 ~ 95%
4. Seismic intensity: 7 degrees
Main Features of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
1. Automatic starting: when receives fire/pipe pressure/power failure/or other start signal, it can automatic start and devote to full load operation in 15 seconds.
2. Automatically charges: battery charging automatically from electric power or charging motor in diesel engine so as to ensure its smooth start-up,
3. Automatic alarm: when diesel engine under low oil pressure, high temperature water and other problems, it would automatic alarm, and alarm and stop when over-speed.
4. Automatic preheating: make the diesel engine in the spare state, ensure emergency work.
5. Direct coupled type: below 360kw diesel pump unit adopt diesel engine and pump connected through elastic coupling directly technology, reduces the malfunction points, and shortens start-up time greatly, increase the reliability and emergency performance.
6. Users can also required another alarm output (non standard delivery);
7. With remote measure, remote communication, remote control (non standard delivery);
Standard Scope of Supply of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
1) automatic diesel pump unit: diesel engine, water pump, cooling fan, cooling water tank, steel structure base, (water heater), battery, connecting wires, exhaust muffler, expansion joints, automatic control panel (adopt imported British DEEP SEA 520 automatic controller).
2) according to customer request provide pattern examination or entrust inspection inspection reports issued by national fire-fighting equipment quality supervision inspection center.
3) according to customer request designed to pump group, the fuel tank, control panel, battery composite integration model.
4) according to customer request designed to pump group, the fuel tank, control panel, battery, rainproof cabinet combined outdoor type.
Optional Scope of Supply of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
1) 300L - 1000L daily-use oil tank or fuel tank
2) diesel pump unit and electric pump unit linkage control panel
3) electric pump unit, constant pressure pump group, pressure tank, etc
- Q: I recently bought a 01 firebird trans am. was doing some maintenance on it. basic stuff, tune up, serpentine belt, break flush, and a coolant flush. I didn't notice any leakage in the car, and neither did any mechanics before. Last week when i did all these basic maintenance i went back to check up on one more thing. The mechanic raised my car up and asked when I'm replacing my water pump.Seeing that it was leaking...but the liquid wasn't green, more or less brown and it didn't have any particular smell, but its not coming from the oil pan. What I'm thinking is that maybe the hoses were completely tightened? All help would be appreciated! thank you!
- Check your coolant levels. Take a drive and let the engine get warm enough for the thermostat to open. This is easily checked by grabbing the upper radiator hose that comes from the thermostat housing. Be careful because it will be really warm. (Most thermostats open at 165 to 185 degrees.) If that is warm, great. With the car running, while parked on a clean surface where you can see if there's a drip, look under the car. Any dripping? Water pumps will more often show that they are gone without making any real noise. They have a weep hole, a place where when the seals goes, it lets water drip out and this is obvious. Water coming from there will be obvious. If there's not a slow or steady stream of water coming out, then it's likely NOT to be the water pump. Turn the engine off and look for wet spots. Is there water around the radiator cap? Is there water around any of the hose connections. Are there any bulges in the hoses? If nothing is really obvious, go to the auto parts store and buy Bars Leak radiator sealant. When you get home, drain half a gallon or so of water from the radiator. Shake the Bar leaks really well and pour it into the radiator. Go for a drive. Drive for 5 minutes, get the engine heat up and drive home. Any minor leak, even at the hose bib, in the radiator, or in the water jacket will be fixed. This stuff has a guarantee so if it doesn't work, go get your money back. You're looking at spending under 10 bucks, by the way.
- Q: I need to replace a water pump
- Just take off the fan belt, unbolt the water pump and fit the new one. Make sure the gasket area is clean and use a new gasket. If it has the fan on it, take that off first.
- Q: Hello online mechanics! You guys have saved me a lot of money on my car, so now I have a new question! I have a 97 Ford Contour and lately since it's been cool in NJ, I've been hearing a tapping coming from the timing belt cover, but when the car warms up, there's no sound. I took the car to my mechanic and he says that I need to have the timing belt replaced, the pulleys adjusted, and the water pump changed. The price for doing the timing belt was $400 (including adjusting the pulleys) and $700 for the timing and the water pump. My question is ; do I need to do the water pump? He says that if you do the timing belt, that you should do the water pump too, but should I if there's nothing wrong with it ( as far as I know) and I'm not looking for the added expense? I thought if it ain't broke don't fix it still applies to things, or am I mistaken? Thanks guys gals! In these tough economic times, I'm not looking to spend any more than is necessary!
- How many miles on that beast, as far as aligning the pulleys.... That is a bogus line as the pulleys are already aligned and they should realign them as standard practice if they remove them... On the water pump totally your call, if it is running OK leave it alone but remember that if it goes it will cost you another 400 to replace it as it is inside the timing cover. I would have it done for peace of mind. I am really curious why the pulleys need adjusting....
- Q: Installation position of check valve for water pump
- Check valves must be installed at the pump's exit and position before the outlet control valve for servicing the check valve.Jiang Yuanyuan 1985's statement has a problem:1. On the flow of water, because the fluid is continuous and incompressible, the water in any part of the pipe will not flow as long as it is cut off in any position in the pipe.2, self suction exhaust is formed within the pump in outlet pipe, check valve installed in the inlet, because the pressure is low, is not conducive to automatically open the check valve, and its resistance, easy to form a vacuum pump and cavitation.
- Q: 1998 BMW 328i : to replace water pump, thermostat and gaskets, brake flush, fuel system cleaning with tune up,drive belt for 90k serivce; totally how much bucks?thx a lot !
- At okorder to prevent mechanics from trying to rip you on the parts.... and they might not be trying to... but their prices are higher than bav's. PS... the 90K mile service is A LOT... I have never paid anyone to do it. Look in the back of your owners manual, it tells you everything they check. I check it all myself. If you change your own oil scope things out while your under the car. It's easy to spot stuff that is wearing out. You can reset the service light yourself too. :P If you don't know anything about cars however.... don't try doing it yourself.... in other words... if you are scared of doing it, don't... if you feel confident... go for it. Also... the first time you do things it might take an hour... second time will take 30 mins... 3rd time you do something it will take 10-15 mins. Most of the projects I have done have been like that. From rebuilding the internal door mechanisms to working on the engine... that's how it's been for me. Key is to not let yourself get frustrated.
- Q: do you trust the bran?
- We dont install autozone anything at our shop. I would say no.
- Q: I was recently driving and noticed my heat gauge in the red. I have a 1992 Honda Accord 4 door LX. When I opened the hood what appears to be water was all over the place. Is this the water pump or something else? I want to fix it this weekend so I was hoping for a better understanding of what it might be. I am aware of the labor involved with the water pump and removing the timing belts to get to it. Thanks a bunch in advance!
- Almost certainly not the water pump. It will leak from the weep hole on the back of the block, near the timing belt housing if it fails, and that won't produce coolant all over the engine. My daughter's 1993 Accord water pump failed and I had a hard time seeing the leakage because most of it happened gradually when on the road. Even if the shaft leaked because the weep hole was plugged it would be inside timing belt cover, not spraying all over. My bets are on a hose, especially near the thermostat housing where the heat is the highest. The thermostat is in a housing on the back edge of the engine - follow the lower radiator hose (weird, huh?) back to the housing. Several hoses come together there. The thermostat isn't going to cause the leak but you need to know where the housing is. The radiator is also a major suspect. As long as you got the engine stopped pretty soon after the overheating began the head gasket is going to be okay, too - it is not a good suspect for the symptoms you have so far. The easiest way to see where the leak is when there is that much loss is to refill the radiator with purified water - never put tap water in the cooling system except in an emergency - and let the engine idle until you see it dripping on the ground (remove the splash guard under the nose) or spraying under the hood.
- Q: 2000 Jetta GLX VR6Problems:- AC is no longer working- The Reader said quot;STOP!quot;CHECK COOLANTI pulled over and checked the Coolant and it was full- The Car will overheat to about 260 whenever I am sitting with the Engine Running- When I start the car its on Zero Degrees and then Slowly makes it way to 190 degrees which is in the middle quot;Normalquot;- Oil Seems to be fine---- What does this sound like to you??--- Also, The VW Dealer said I needed to be without my Car for Two days so I will drop it off Friday Night and leave it until Wednesday. Do you think it will last until Friday driving 60miles a day??-- If it is the Water Pump... How much do you *think* I am looking at paying? I am taking it to the VW Dealer b/c I have a Recall they need to fix too.
- Your okorder /... Aside from the thermostat, it could be the coolant temperature sensor. I don't know how mechanically inclined you are, but a quick check to see if it is the thermostat... Let the car get to operating temperature, pop the hood and squeeze the upper and lower radiator hoses. if the top one is hot and the lower is not; its your thermostat. As far as your AC goes, did it suddenly start blowing hot air? Do you hear squealing when you turn it on?
- Q: Hi, my mechanic said that I need a new water pump. I have a 1994 Dodge Caravan SE. What is involved with the whole changing of a water pump? He said it would cost about $400 to $500 for the whole job. Is that correct? Were is a good place to go get one? I live in Staten Island New York. Is sears a good place for that job? What is installed when they do this job? Belts or what??? I thank you for your time and any help is greatly appreciated. I will be taking my car in this week and will leave a best answer based on the correct information. Thanks again :-)
- well first off you dont mention what size engine. if you have the 3.0 l v-6, then that price will be fair if they are replacing the timing belt and tensioners when they are replacing the water pump. as for a good place it depends on the mechanics and there certifications if they have any ase certified master tech. 20+ years exp.
- Q: There is a 5.5KW before the pump head is now 25 meters and flow of 20 cubic meters, but not up to the requirements, I think this is like with a motor pump, lift more than 20 meters, the flow is about 40 cubic meters of water pump, please inform the models and parameters, thank you
- With the motor pump are pump according to the actual need of work with you in the head, under the same water doubled, the motor is certainly not enough, you should this motor pump change together in order to meet the requirements of.
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Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 300 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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