• Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series System 1
  • Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series System 2
  • Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series System 3
Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series

Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
300 unit/month

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Performance of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series

Flow Range:5-1500m3/h

Head Range:10-300m

Power Range:1.1-250kw

Temperature:-20ºC-120ºC

Material:Cast Iron,Stainless Steel

Work Pressure:≤1.6MPa
 

Products Overview of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
XBC type diesel engine fire pump is a new type of fire-fighting product that strictly according to the national standard GB6245 "fire pump performance requirements and testing methods" criteria, this series have wide head, flow range, can fully meet various occasions fire water supply in the warehouse, docks and airports, petroleum chemical industry, power plant, liquefied gas station, textile and other industrial and mining enterprises. 
Product has the characteristics of easy starting, strong overload ability, compact structure, convenient maintenance, simple use, high automation degree, it is a kind of advanced, reliable fire-fighting equipment. 

Working Conditions of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
1. Altitude: ≤2,500 meters 
2. Environmental temperature: - 25 ~ 55 ºC 
3. Relative humidity: 9 ~ 95% 
4. Seismic intensity: 7 degrees 

Main Features of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
1. Automatic starting: when receives fire/pipe pressure/power failure/or other start signal, it can automatic start and devote to full load operation in 15 seconds. 
2. Automatically charges: battery charging automatically from electric power or charging motor in diesel engine so as to ensure its smooth start-up, 
3. Automatic alarm: when diesel engine under low oil pressure, high temperature water and other problems, it would automatic alarm, and alarm and stop when over-speed. 
4. Automatic preheating: make the diesel engine in the spare state, ensure emergency work. 
5. Direct coupled type: below 360kw diesel pump unit adopt diesel engine and pump connected through elastic coupling directly technology, reduces the malfunction points, and shortens start-up time greatly, increase the reliability and emergency performance. 
6. Users can also required another alarm output (non standard delivery); 
7. With remote measure, remote communication, remote control (non standard delivery); 

Standard Scope of Supply of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
1) automatic diesel pump unit: diesel engine, water pump, cooling fan, cooling water tank, steel structure base, (water heater), battery, connecting wires, exhaust muffler, expansion joints, automatic control panel (adopt imported British DEEP SEA 520 automatic controller). 
2) according to customer request provide pattern examination or entrust inspection inspection reports issued by national fire-fighting equipment quality supervision inspection center. 
3) according to customer request designed to pump group, the fuel tank, control panel, battery composite integration model. 
4) according to customer request designed to pump group, the fuel tank, control panel, battery, rainproof cabinet combined outdoor type. 

Optional Scope of Supply of Diesel Engine Fire Centrifugal Pump XBC Series
1) 300L - 1000L daily-use oil tank or fuel tank 
2) diesel pump unit and electric pump unit linkage control panel 
3) electric pump unit, constant pressure pump group, pressure tank, etc

Q:how do you check the water pump? We started the engine with water running through the bunny ears and no water is running out.
There should be with muffs even if the impeller is bad check the thermostat or drop the foot and check the impeller.
Q:How do I change the water pump in my 1998 ford mustang manual v6?
If you don't already know how to do it, then take it to a shop to have it done by the professionals. If you insist on trying it yourself, buy a Chilton's manual for your car, do some online research (with pictures), and buckle down. You will need to loosen the belts, remove the belts, remove the water pump, replace it, and reinstall everything. You will need to make sure that the belt is routed the correct way, or BOOM! You might also want to replace the timing belt while you're in there. It makes sense to replace it if you already are removing it, and the timing belt is something you can't afford to have go bad on you.
Q:should replace timing belt & water pump on a newly purchased used vehicle..if no records of last x changed?
It is wise to seek advise from professional mechanics as to what process you are considering to do with this vehicle. This vehicle is 2013-1994= 19/20 years old presumably in service since 1994. The miles you report as under 160,000 miles. You inquire as if you are inexperienced in automotive affairs. Well, here is my experience speaking. Any vehicle over 100,000 miles is to be suspect of wear and tear and even abuse by prior owners and they require inspection and evaluation. Engines are to be checked for compression and leaks, electrical system, corrosion, engine mounts, exhaust, transmission, coolant system, etc. etc. etc. Only a trained mechanic can do this. Unless you have receipts, records at a dealership, etc. as evidence of service and repairs, then all parts are original. You ask as to the timing chain. I expand to include everything proposing short of an engine rebuild. Cars do a lot of work and suffer deterioration each second the motor runs and each inch the car moves over the earth. IF there an inspection plate or port that provides for a viewing of the condition of the timing belt, a mechanic will know. My car, a 2001 Audi TT has that feature. Now, imagine the purchase price of this Toyota, add the expense of the inspection and possible repairs such as the timing belt, water pump, thermostat, radiator cap and coolant replacement, possible a new radiator, suspension parts, exhaust parts, etc. in need of replacement, etc. and it is up to you to decide IF this vehicle is worth the expense for no matter how money you spend, the retail market value shall remain the same. That means around $2,500 to $2,700. This vehicle, as new, was not and is not now, a fuel efficient vehicle with an average MPG of 14 MPG on a good day. I do not know as to your driving needs but at 60 MPH and 14 MPG that mean each 14 miles $3.50, average, goes out the tail pipe for a nice $14.00 per HOUR cost on fuel. Kind of expensive. You choice and decision. Good luck.
Q:i have little leak from water pump need to replace it in my mazda 6 2006 v6 3.0l. i have little over 120.000 miles on it. Any body know how much it may cost me?
I don't know why, but the water pump costs between $125 and $160. That seems a little high. It probably retails for $186. Under normal conditions, you just get things out of the way, unbolt the old pump, clean it up and put the new one in. The problem is the other stuff that gets in the way. I'm just estimating the job will take 5-8 hours. Just multiply times the labor rate in your area. Don't forget the anti-freeze when you're done.
Q:I installed a new water pump on a Cherokee straight-6 engine, the upper radiator hose is not heating up and the engine is starting to make a funny noise. The thermostat is new and was working fine before. The coolant reservoir is full and no more coolant will drain to radiator / engine. Anyone know why waterpump is not circulating coolant?
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Q:I drive a 99vw jetta and the coolant was leaking from it i took it to a repair shop they said the water pump was bad and that the seals on the water pump where bad that was defiantly where the coolant was leaking from. I replaced the water pump and drove my car this weekend no troubles, then this afternoon my coolant light came on and i put coolant in my car and it just started trickling out i called the repair shop they said it may just be a loose hose or clamp, is this true or am i looking at something worse than the water pump that has to be replaced?? or would that issue have already came up when they where looking for where the leak was coming from before it was repaired? please help
The pump may have indeed been bad. Did the shop put on the new pump or did you do it yourself? If it was done by the shop, take it back and make them fix it correctly. You have already paid them for the work. If you did it yourself, it should be fairly easy to spot where the leak is coming from. It is also rare but possible that the pump you put on was bad out of the box from the parts store. Not likely...but slim possibility. Hopefully it is just a loose clamp or hose.
Q:how do u know when u need to replace ur water pump or how do u know when its not working??? thanks
i like the way you said that.h2o pump.well if the water pump isnt working like it should,then it will overheat and the temp.light will come on and also if its leaking anti-freexe,its time to change it.also if the bearing is making a racket,it is time for a new 1.
Q:The at is a 2003 Toyota celica. And how much would it cost to get the water pump and timing belt replaced?
It’s useless to try and get an estimate for the cost of parts and labor for repairs via Yahoo Answers. In a lot of cases we have no idea of what country you’re in, let alone city, state, province or township. Even knowing where you live is of little use as prices for parts and labor can vary wildly within the same area. If you understand the problem and just need parts you can Google for the best prices for parts. Your best solution for getting an estimate of repair costs is by contacting an independent auto repair shop in your area. Don’t go with any of the franchise or chain type auto repair places as they frequently use poorly trained help and many have no mechanical training at all, and dealers have to charge more to cover their high overhead. It’s really best (when possible) to get a personal referral from someone you trust to a local independent shop.
Q:I have gotten oil in my coolant, and coolant in my oil..It might be the head gasket, no doubt, but many people said (online forums) that my bike, has issues with the seal that is separating oil pump from water pump. They go bad, and when they do, the oil mixes with coolant and vise versa. Now, I am seeking from professional help, on how to take out both of the pumps, without messing up timing, and also without messing up anything else. I have removed the entire exhaust system, dropped the oil pan, and i can see the oil/water pump pretty good. What i do not know is how to remove it properly. Any help is help, I have searched and searched on google and forums on how to perform this task, but couldnt find any specific help on how to remove the pump. Thank you!!!!!
Yamaha Oil Pump
Q:What do water pumps do on a car?
pumps water

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