XBC Diesel Engine Fire-fighting Pump

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Summary

XBC series diesel engine fire-fighting pump group is a new-style fire-fighting equipment ("equipment" thereaf-
ter) developed by this Co. in accordance with GB6245-98 Fire-fighting pumps and NEPA20 Installation of cen
trifugal fire-fighting pumps etc.standards and, upon the fitted fire-fighting pumps (single-stage single-suction type,
single-stage dual-suction type and sectional multistage type), canbe divided into XBC-IS, XBC-SLOW and XBC-D theree sub-series. The equipment has a wide range of pressure and temperature and can be used for almost every occasion necessary for fire-fighting.
The diesel engine fitted with the equipment is an excellent product domestic or imported, features good starting performance, strong overload capacity, compact structure, easy maintenance and use and high degree of automation. The equipment is really a fire-fighting one advanced and reliable in performance.

<1> Technology Parameters:
Environmental temperature: +5º C-º C+40
Air relative humidity: ≤ 90%
Flow: 5-120L/S
Rotary Speed: 1450r/min
Calibre: Φ50-Φ250
Temperature Range: ≤70º C
Working Pressure: ≤2. 5MPa

<2>Features:
a)Compact structure

b)Stable running, low noise

c)No leakage

d)Convenient operation

e)Viewing from the inlet of the pump, the outlet of it can
be mounted in one of the three ways, horizontally leftward,
vertically upward and horizontally rightward

<3>Application:

a)Water supply for the fixed-fighting system of both industrial and civil builtings.

b)Fire hydrant fire-extinguishing system

c)Automatic spraying fire-extinguishing system

d)Fog-spraying fire-extinguishing system etc

Q: Had my car in to the shop this morning, it's a 2000 Ford Escort ZX2. The water pump and radiator need to be replaced, and they said they can do it for $380. Is this a reasonable price? Also, if I don't get them fixed right away, am I risking a lot of permanent damage to the engine?: Good chance you have a leaking head gasket. Try this, with the engine cold, remove the radiator cap, start the engine and let the car idle until it heats up. Look into the radiator, can you see large bubbles (like blowing slowly through a straw into a glass of water) or a foamy looking coolant in the radiator opening? You also need to see if there is oil in the radiator. Is the cooling system loosing coolant with no apparent external leaks? Does the car loose coolant , but never leave a puddle on the ground? A leaking head gasket is common on engine with aluminum heads and iron blocks, especially if the engine has been previously overheated. Some shops have a chemical test for combustion gasses in the radiator. It is also possible to use a system pressure test, where the entire system is pumped up to 15-20 PSI and then allowed to sit and see if the pressure drops. A quick drop in pressure indicates a leak. A pressure test can allow you to see where a leak originates, since the car is sitting and a leak will be very apparent.

Q: i need to know how the water pumps, how it transports, where it goes, and how the structure is used to control the direction of the flow. Please help? I'd really like to know., thank you in advance!: you're saying that your pump used to function precise in the previous, so if the pump is in sturdy situation, the elevate should not be too great so we are able to rule that out. it sounds as though to me that the gurgling sound may well be made by potential of sucking air, and for this to ensue, it would be a concern on the inlet area of the pump. If the guy who repaired the pump is familiar with what he's doing, it won't be the pump, so we are able to rule that out. That leaves the pipe and any fittings between the pump and the foot valve that could desire to be on the top of the pipe. attempt working the pump, and pouring water over all joints and fittings, one after the different, if the pump is working precise, a slurping sound would be heard on the leak. The pump could have a priming factor, a screw in plug, someplace on proper of it. With the pump stopped, get rid of the plug, and pour water into the hollow. you will possibly desire to have the skill to fill the pump appropriate up, and the water stay at that time, without draining away. If it wont hold the water, the valve on the backside of the pipe is the two wiped out or has something like a stone or gravel struggling with it from working precise. As you have disconnected this pump for upkeep, it would have needed priming besides, that's the filling up with water. it is too plenty to ask a dry pump to enhance water any peak, so in step with danger you do not have a concern in any respect. sturdy success

Q: I live in a house that uses a pump to push water from a tank to the bathroom and kitchen. It has a sensor that detects if water is flowing and pushes it much harder. Recently, it has been pushing the water for a second or less then it completely stops for a while. It's like a pulse of water then nothing. Can anyone give me feedback on what is wrong here? Thank you.: from okorder :Self-priming pump working principle is: the pump before you start in the pump shell filled with water (or) from the water in the pump housing.Start after high-speed rotating impeller flow to the vortex in the impeller, shell, then the entry form the vacuum, the inlet non-return door open, within the air into the pump suction tube and the impeller, to arrive at the outer edge.Self-priming pump is a self-priming centrifugal pump, it has compact structure, convenient operation, stable operation, easy maintenance, high efficiency, long service life, and have strong self-priming capacity, etc.Line does not need to install the bottom valve, only to ensure storage in pump body before work are quantitative liquid.Pump after the normal starting, impeller liquid of suction chamber and inlet line of air suction, and can completely mixed within the impeller, the function of centrifugal force, and liquid with gas to the vortex flow volume outside edge, the impeller has a certain thickness is formed on the outer edge of the white foam belt and high-speed rotating liquid ring.Gas-liquid mixture into the gas-liquid separation chamber through diffusion tube.At this time, due to the flow rate suddenly drops, lighter gas is separated from the mixture of liquid and gas through the pump body spit continues to rise.After degassing of liquid to liquid storage chamber, and the reflux hole again into the impeller, and impeller with inhalation of gases from the inlet line again mix, flow under the action of the high-speed rotating impeller and the impeller outer edge....As the process cycle, decreasing the air in the suction line, until all gas absorption, complete the self-priming process, pump put into normal operation. What you said phenomenon should be pipeline leak, which leads to the self-priming pump process is repeated.

Q: i took off the water pump cover on my 1986 cr 250 and discovered that the impeller wont come off. ive tried turnig it the wrong way and the right way. can someone please tell me how to get it off.: Remove the water pump cover, Now you will see the impeller and it has a little 10 mm(I think) nut fitting on it. Put the bike in gear and apply the rear brake. Now unscrew the impeller with a socket wrench. Take it easy as they are quite soft. Once that is off, you should be able to pry the seal out, and pop a new one in. A good way to get old seals out is to use a screw, screw it in to the seal then grab it with the pliers. You might want to replace the oil seal while you are there since they are so cheap. To do this though you will have to remove the rh crank case cover cause this seal sits in the inside of this cover. This is also an easy job. When you remove the rh crank case cover ( with impeller already removed) the water pump shaft should just slide out from the inside and give you easy access to both seals.

Q: 1.where is it located and what would I have to remove 1st to get to it. And would I need a torque wrench if so what # would it have to be at when re-installing water pump: 4A-FE okorder /... it's an externally mounted pump. so as far as pumps go, it's relatively easy. easy for a novice. knowlegeable begginer should be able to tackle it. here's a clip for water pump replacement on a 94 rolla with the 4A-FE engine. engine bay will be slightly different. but the proccess will be exactly the same. since it is on a rolla, some of the equipment removed for ease of access maybe different on yours. may or may not need or wish to crank engine mounts. youtu.be/BiXCCA5dLM0 use that in conjunction with the manual if needed. to do it right, yes. need a torque wrench. but it can be done w/o one. though since you're asking (denotes lack of experience/no insult), i strongly suggest you rent one and use it. can be rented at most any auto parts store. prolly 20 buck for the day.

Q: I have a 1 HP water pump that will pump water through a 1 and 1/2hose. What is the approx. GPM (just to have a reference) of a pump like this?: The capacity will be limited by the pressure drop. Assume 15-40 GPM depending on the length of the 1 hose. This is provided that the 1 is then split into four 1/2 hoses. Otherwise the flow will be highly restricted by the smaller diameter. The efficiency of a small centrifugal pump is around 50%. The general water pump equation at 50% eff. is HP = GPM psi / 860. So for one horsepower the GPM = 860 / psi Therefore for 20 psi the flow is 43 GPM, at 40 psi it is 21 GPM , at 60 psi it is 15 GPM

Q: how to change water pump on 1998 hyundai sonata?: it really easy, first go to any car parts store near u, i recommand (napa) auto parts. u may ask for a book to look or ask for print out instruction. any way u need a wrench and some tools, look in the front, there r u radiator, follow the hose that came out and it will go to u engine and right there is u water pump, take the hose out and take water pump out and put the new one in, but some time it not the water pump, it could be the bell, or just the termostat locate on top of weter pump or to the side it the out water to go to engine , so how u know u water pump broke, but u want to save money get u phone book out and look for used auto parts and order u water pump around ($20) and just go to library and look for auto book and go from there, or go to auto zone ,they have print out for u, ...should na drive toyota

Q: What is the part called on a water pump that does the actual water moving. I want only this part to make my own water pump using a different motor and pulley.This is for lifting water 18' high and circulating through 1/2 to 3/4 inch pipe. Hoping to get about 6 gl per min: The impeller .

Q: I have a well that is 6inch and down 250 ft. It use to be used to water our grove. The submersible pump went bad and I had it pulled and capped. I was wondering since the water level in the pipe is around 6 feet down, can I install an above ground jet pump to feed my house? Could I just go down around 30 feet and pump with the above ground jet pump instead of using the submersible pump? tks for any help..: You should have a local engineer or qualified contractor take a look. Even if you can get it to work (you'll have to consider the NPSH Net Positive Suction Head rating of the pump, since you're still pulling the water.) it may not be acceptable per code. What's more, since the well was used for irrigation before, it's possible it was installed to comply code only to the extent of irrigation and not for potable use.

Q: overheating.it has a new thermostat,radiator is clean.temp stays normal during idle,rises when i start to drive.ac is off when this happens.its a 4.7 dodge durango.can water pump simplyquot;go badquot;without ever leaking?: The short answer to your question: It is unlikely that a water pump will go bad without leaking, but weirder things have happened. Your thinking is right overheating only when you drive is an indication of limited flow, either caused by a restriction (radiator, hose, thermostat), an air bubble, or a bad pump. Are you sure that the air is bled out of your system? If you have an air pocket in your engine or at the pump, you will get reduced flow. I think that the 4.7 Durango has a radiator cap, if so, with the engine cold, take the cap off, fill it, and start the engine. If you get bubbles every time you rev the engine, then you may have a bad head gasket, this would introduce bubbles in the system... Make sure that the lower radiator hose is not collapsing. Most of these hoses have a stiff spring inside to keep them from collapsing when the water pump is running. Otherwise, my guess would be that your pump is bad, or you have more restrictions in your system. Good luck.

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