Diesel Engine Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump
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- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
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Specification
Diesel Engine Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump
Description of Diesel Engine Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump
CDL/CDLF is a kind of vertical nonself priming multistage centrifugal pump, which is driven by a standard electric motor.
The motor output shaft directly connects with the pump shaft through a coupling.
The pressureresistant cylinder and flow passage components are fixed between pump head and inand outlet section with tiebar bolts. The inlet and outlet are located at the pump bottom at the same plane.
This kind of pump can be equipped with an intelligent protector to effectively prevent it from dry-running, out-of-phase and overload.
Product Parameters of Diesel Engine Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump
Capacity | up to 250 m3/h |
Head | up to305m |
Speed | up to 3600rpm |
Power | up to 200kw |
Voltage | 220V to 480V |
Temperature range | Within 120 Deg C |
Working pressure | Within 40bar |
Application of Diesel Engine Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump
It can be used to convey various medium from tap water to industrial liquid at different temperature and with different flow rate and pressure.
CDL type is applicable to conveying non-corrosive liquid, While CDLF is suitable for slightly corrosive liquid.
Water supply: Water filter and transport in Waterworks, boosting of main pipeline, boosting in high-rise buildings.
Industrial boosting: Process flow water system, cleaning system, high-pressure washing system, fire fighting system.
Industrial liquid conveying: Cooling and air-conditioning system, boiler water supply and condensing system, machine-associated purpose, acids and alkali .
Water treatment: Ultrafiltration system, reverse osmosis system, distillation system, swimming pool, separator.
Irrigation: Farmland irrigation, spray irrigation, dripping irrigation
Operation Condition
Thin, clean, non-flammable and non-explosive liquid containing no solid granules and fibers.
Liquid temperature:
Normal temperature type: -15~+70,
Hot water type: +70~+120
Ambient temperature: Up to +40
Altitude: Up to 1000m
Electric motor
Full-enclosed air-blast two-pole standed motor
Protection class: IP55
Insulation class: F
Standard voltage
50Hz:
1x220230/240V
3x200220/346380V
3x220240/380415V
3x380415V
60Hz:
3X200230/346400V
3x220255/380440V
3x220227/380480V
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Why choose us
High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material
FAQ
1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on
2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)?
3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
4) Contact us by under business card information
2.OEM: Ok
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts
Trading market
Transportation
- Q: I'm doing a DCP project which is at its concept design stage.In order to estimate the chilled water pump size and ratings roughly, could anybody give me some tips on the average/normal chilled water pump heads for a typical 10000 TR DCP. The length of the longest loop could be around 600 m single run.
- to boot to the availability and go back line, if there are different factors in the equipment at the same time with administration valves and warmth exchangers, their rigidity drop also desires to be protected.
- Q: ok some one put sugar in my gas tank i had to replace my fuel pump and now i have sludge that's eating th inside of my radiator hoses and my water pump went and of course that's timing driven and my timing belt is awful tight i cant put a finger in between it ....and my car is not car water so i cant drive it and i don't have money to blow to take it to a shop any help u can offer will help and i know i am going to replace my water pump and info for when i do that will help and answers to the sludge (its like a Vaseline) and how to find out if its in my motor or my brand new radiator ? me plz i am a 18 yr old girl with knowledge about cars and have friends to help me and my mom so any helpp will help and is better then none
- If okorder /.. Anyway I hope you have better luck, i'd kill someone if they put sugar in my gas tank. Then again i have a locking gas cap. If you have any questions feel free to im me via yahoo messenger.
- Q: cars leaking coolant from the right side just dont kno if its the water pump
- Water pump will be at the front center of the engine usually about 2 behind the fan belt Please be very careful never to allow the vehicle to run low on coolant or serious and expensive engine damage will occur. If in doubt don't drive it until its fixed Take a flashlight and take a good look over the whole engine compartment giving close attention to all the hoses connecting the engine to the radiator its best to find the exact location of the leak and get it fixed.Coolant leaks usually leave a discolored stain so this may help in finding it. Also take a look at the carpet on both front floorpans of the vehicle its possible that the cars heater may have failed and this will leak coolant all over either 1 or both floor pans which can then leak out on to the ground below via a drain hole.
- Q: I replaced the water pump on my 2001 dodge dakota and I still have a leak coming from somewhere. I don't know if i put the bolts in the wrong holes or what. Some bolts were long and some were short. Is there a diagram that shows where which bolts go where?
- Dodge man and dave are correct as far as finding the bolt locations and sealing the threads. I have same eng in my 2000 dakota. I did the same as you. I chased a leak for months, Like you I replaced the water pump. That did not fix it. I was told by several people that the intake gaskets have been known to leak. So I kept adding coolant until I had the time to tear it down. The water pump can be replaced with out removing the bracket that holds ac compresser, but the little bypass hose, that connects to the top of the water pump, you have to carefully remove that bracket. Once you do that. you can easily replace the bypass hose, make sure to clean hose nipples good. While that bracket is off, you can easily see evidence of any other possible leaks. Anyway, It only took a few hours to complete this job, in the back yard with a few hand tools. That's been about 9 months ago, and haven't had any problems since. and the little bypass hose was like around $7 at O' reily. Anyways good luck and hope this answer helps.
- Q: or how do i remove the water pump?please xplain
- You need to get the large nut lose. It holds the fan/fan clutch to the water pump shaft. After you get that off it's all down hill from there.A large adjustable wrench will work on the nut but you will need to keep pump from turning to loosen it. I think it may be left hand thread. It is not on real tight. The book will help on this one.
- Q: Ok i was wondering which is the from hose off of the motor the bottom or top since i thinl my heater core hose are reversed and i only get nuke warm air and not hot and yes ive got a brand new heater core, new anti freese, new thermostat and gaskets and all hoses are clear and not rust in the system
- I think the info you are looking for is which heater hose supplies the heater core and which hose returns the water to the system. The heater core has two connections, the bottom is usually water in, the top water out. Generally the hose from the top of the engine supplies the heater core and the hose going to the water pump is returning back to the system. Having cleared that up, it doesn't really matter, even if the hoses are reversed, coolant will flow through the heater core regardless, unless there is a control built into one of the heater hoses that actually cuts off the flow of coolant to the heater core. Some trucks have them some don't. If yours does, check that it is working properly or remove it altogether. Now let's examine the possible source of your problem. I would look at either the heater control in the cab or the heater box itself. In the early 70's GM started using pneumatics, and vacuum operated components for their environmental controls. Vacuum operated doors opened and closed to allow airflow to different parts of the system, A/C, defroster, vents, heat, etc. A vacuum leak, a kinked hose, a bad control will cause the doors to stay closed, giving the illusion that there is no heat. By the same token, the wrong door stuck open could allow excessive outside air to mix with the heated air effectively cooling it off, but that is not likely. Check the main control in the cab, and the vacuum actuators and hoses. If by some chance yours still has the steel cables, make sure they are well lubricated, connected, and functioning.
- Q: My water pump is sitting very close if not rubbing against the case. There were shavings and a groove. Would this cause it to knock? Also would this blow up the lower end? One more, Should it be in the center or offset twards the top?
- it won't spin whilst you evaluate that's quickly geared to the crankshaft. turn the crankshaft - it is going to then spin. you may no longer eliminate the water pump without eliminating the grab conceal. eliminate the water pump shaft's protecting clip, to eliminate the water pump.
- Q: Submersible pump coupling, what does this coupling mean?
- What is a fixed submersible pump, submersible pump installed this thing to get up you ask to buy special Songchuan pump pump they'll explain it to you.
- Q: I am trying to change my daughters 2004 Grande Am water pump because people tell me it is squealing. We purchased a replacement pump and blue gasket glue. I know to remove the Serpentine belt (not sure which pulley to reduce tension on) then I need to know which bolts to un-tighten, won't the pump turn as a use the wrench? Is there a good video available on changing out the water pump? I've done maybe 5 water pumps in my lifetime all on V-8s with rear wheel drive, so they had easy access. Does anyone know the steps of removal or can someone point to a video of removal replacement?
- better make sure it,s not the belt squealing and not the pump. usually when a water pump goes out they will leak. i would be checking the belt first.
- Q: I have just replaced the timing belts on my 94 Civic Si and my 00 Elantra GLS. Both were done at different shops, but i got the same hounding to replace the water pump when doing the belt. My Elantra has 66k and my Civic 85k and i know how important the timing belt is-especially with a negative clearance engine like the VTEC. previously, i've never been told to replace the waterpump with the timing belt til now. is this just a ruse to extort more money out of me, or is there some validity in what the guy behind the counter is saying??
- Rubbish, I've been a motor mechanic for about 10-11 years now, and have never nor heard of anyone advising this. The problem is if your water pump seizes up it will strip the teeth on the belt, if the garage is worth it's salt it will check the pump before the new belt is fitted simply by spinning it, to make sure the bearings are OK.
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Diesel Engine Vertical Multistage Centrifugal Pump
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 set
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 set/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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