• D86 series three-phase meters System 1
D86 series three-phase meters

D86 series three-phase meters

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Application

Three phase the meters are used to measure active or reactive energy of three-phase circuit with refrence frequency 50Hz or 60Hz. DT862、DT864、DS862、DS864 are three-phase active meters,DX862、DX864、DX865、DX863 are three-phase reactive meters.


Technical parameters

1、Meters conform to GB/T 15283-1994 and GB/T 15282-1994 standards (IEC521-1998).
2、Meters can be made into types: direct wiring and CT/PT wiring;
3、Can be made into special meters according customer’s requirements (different frequeny, voltage, current specifications etc.)
4、Power consumption:active power consumption of voltage circuit less than 2W(under reference conditions)
5、Dielectric properties:1.2/50µs wave,peak value:6kV, no damage permitted under 10 times test. meter can withstand 2kV(circuit to earth, under 45~65Hz,1 minute)。


Outline and installation dimensions
Type and specification
Order note

Before order you should fill out the type,specification and quantities. if you have special requirement please negotiate with manufacturer.


Q: 1993 Buick Roadmaster Estate Wagon
Did you check the fuse in the back of it? and have you checked all the good connections? Sometimes components just die especially cheap ones.
Q: I wrote to the company and they said they can't (or won't) identify the thermal fuse rating, nor will they tell me where to get one. They told me to just buy a new fryer for $50. I don't want to do that, being that I know the fuse costs $2 (I just replaced on my coffee machine). The numbers on the old one are illegible. If I knew the specific rating, I think I could just scoot down to the local Radio Shack and get a new one, like I did for the coffee maker. I can find no service manual anywhere. I assume the rating has to be at least 450 degrees F, but I want to get some more info before replacing what is essentially a fail-safe protection device. If I get on that is rated to high, I run the risk of severely overheating the unit, and I have teenagers who may use it; too low, and it will blow before the oil gets nearly hot enough to fry my chicken. I know I can make the thing operate without the fuse, but I would like to replace it. Any info?
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Q: I dont really know much about car electrical systems, im only 17 and im trying to learn. I only know a little about wiring (like pos and neg from physics class last year) I want to install 2 neon tubes, one underneath the driver and passenger dash. The fuse box is to the left of the passengers foot (2008 vue) I opened it up and all i see is a bunch of little plastic squares for each component (for example, power windows, On Star, radio etc) There are also 2 that say spare which i think i could hook up to, or even the power seats fuse because i dont have that so it wouldnt have anything right? What are the next steps? I dont understand where you actually hook in the wires??Thanks!!
Well, what I would do in your situation is take out a fuse that turns off with the car (ie: radio, window regulator). You can use a add-a-fuse attachment that splices into the wire to connect the positive end, or simply take the positive end (heavily stripped and primed of course), wrap it around one of the metal pieces of the fuse and shove it back in. Then simply ground it to nut or bolt nearby. You might have to repeat this on a couple of different fuses, because this probably won't fit with two wires coming out of one fuse. Then all you have to do is worry about concealing the power wire, but this will be no problem.
Q: Hi I have a LG motion from Metro PCS. A fuse popped when I had my phone plugged into the charger. It seems to be loading slower, but still turns on. Is their a sure fire way to tell if their has been any electrical damage? thanks.
Damage from a blown fuse would make the phone not work at all - phones are computers, and when a part in a computer gets burned out, it just kills the whole thing (or a whole major component, like the screen, or sound, etc.). The fact that it's slower is just coincidence, and may only be you imagining things because you're worried.
Q: I need help figuring out why my off road lights are not working. They were working about a week ago and now they don't work. I have the power wire connected to the battery to a toggle switch. The power wire has a fuse on it but if the fuse was blown the light wouldn't go on on the toggle switch right? Then I have the toggle switch grounded. Then I have the white wire going to the off road lights which are LED and have all of the lights grounded and have regrounded them twice since the first time they were not working that was the problem. I even tried a different toggle switch but that didn't fix the problem. The only thing I can think of is the fuse is blown on the power wire but like I said the light on the toggle switch wouldn't light up right? Please help me figure this out!!!
Off Road Light Wiring
Q: I have 1999 Honda Accord. Recently, the buttons on the Climate control panel stopped working. The round knobs controlling air flow into the car and the temperature are fine. It is just that I cannot control where air gets directed via those buttons. At the same time, the clock is not illuminated (the clock is fine). Would like to find out if there is a fuse or an electrical component controlling both (control panel and the clock light) has gone bad? if yes, where can I find it? thanksrajesh
Hey Rajesh, Well sorry that your climate control is not responding the way it should. I know most of us are beginning to realize the need for our heaters and stuff now that it is getting a little colder. I'm not too sure if the climate controls are tied in with the dash panel illumination Rajesh. They usually aren't, but for the sake of the symptoms, we wont rule it out ok? Most cars, including yours, have the heater doors and valves that direct the climate controlled airflow to go where the panel directs them is controlled by vacuum. It's designed that way because of expense. Vacuum servo devices are so much cheaper than electric servo motors and in some designs can be more reliable too. The round knobs you have are cable driven while the buttons redirect the vacuum which is created from the engine and stored in a reservoir. Lots of times what happens is in the engine compartment the hoses get brittle from all the heat. They will then crack and break. this will disable your heater control if the vacuun line to the reservoir is cracked. If that is not it then yo can check the fuses under the drivers dash by your left leg
Q: Car blows fuse constantly that allows u to get it out of park.Changed fuse from 15amp to 20.lasted almost 2 weeks and now blowing the fuse againBrakes still work when this happens and they light up.Turn signals do not work when this happens
Some where in the circuit for the D range in you car is a short to ground weather it be right after the shifter all the way down to one of the solenoids in the transmission shift assembly? If you can find the short it'll fix right away? Have it scanned for trouble codes this might help find it? But major don't increase the fuse size this is extremely bad it will cause the wire the harness or the component it's attached to to receive vary high current this will cause the for mentioned things to burn and fail this could cause a 50-60$ repair to be at worst a 2-3000$ dollar reapir
Q: any suggestion to fix them would be appreciated.
need more info do they work on there own or not at all try fuse i hope you have all ready if one works then once thats of the other works is proberly wire ing fort get checked out could be dangerous hope ive helped
Q: 3amp fuse keeps blowing
defective ignition module
Q: Fuses are good. The Cig lighter also lost power. Even the clock will not display unless the parking and headlights are on. It all seems to be concentrated in the center console (except for the int. wiper.) This all happened at the same time.
You blew a fuse. Check your fuses.

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