• DTS607、DSS607 series three-phase electronic ammeter System 1
DTS607、DSS607 series three-phase electronic ammeter

DTS607、DSS607 series three-phase electronic ammeter

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Application

DTS607、DSS607 series are used to measure active energy of 3-phase 3-wire and 3-phase 4-wire circuits. It adopts high-accuracy energy measuring chip and has resonable construction. Its excellent features: stable characteristics, high reliability, low power consumption. The meter supply pulse output to be checked by customers.


Type and meaning
Normal operation and installation conditions

1、Specified working temperature range: -25℃~60℃;
2、Limit operation temperature range:-40℃~70℃;
3、Relative humidity less than 85%(under 23℃);
4、 No corrosive medium in the air。


Specifications
Main technical parameters

1、Conform to GB/T 17215 -2002、IEC 61036:2000 standards;
2、Class index:1、2;
3、Power consumption:less than 2W(10VA);
4、Reference frequency:50Hz;
5、No need to calibrate under long time operation;
6、Three-phase power supply. meter can work when one or two phase interrupted.
7、Good temperature characterstics, keep good accuracy from -25℃ to 55℃;
8、The speciality of light loading is good; the ammeter will work with the favorable precision under the utmost low load.
9、The actual precision of measurement on line is high especially aiming at all kinds of the resonance ware.
10、Easy mounting(nothing to do with mounting place);
11、It withstands transport commendably. The error change can't be brought under the condition of all kinds of natural transport. Users don't need to adjust it when opening the packing.


Outline and installation dimensions
Order note

Before order you should fill out the type, specification and quantities. If you have special requirement please negotiate with manufacturer.


Q: Any help greatly appreciated. So I drive a 2005 Chrysler 300. 3.5l v6. I have strange headlight and tail light issues. Mind you there are what I believe aftermarket LED halo style headlights in the front. Tail lights are from 300c hemiFirst of all my #8 fuse [15 amp] is repeatedly blowing for no appearant reason. A Working fuse gives me the fancy blue halos, orange lamps, 3 small LED's and my normal beams. As well as proper running tail lights for the back and a responsive light switch to turn them off and on. . When the fuse blows I'm left with no lights other than my normal beams up front. No tail lights. Yet when the fuse IS blown I press the break and all my tail lights come on [all reds, and yellow blinker lights both constant. Yellow lights don't blink] and a glitchy light switch. NOW aside from all of that. My bottom left fog light does not work. The bulb looks un damaged. Any help greatly appreciated
The fuse protects an individual circuit. The lights which work when the fuse is blown is on another fuse circuit. They could not work if they were on the same circuit as the #8 fuse. It sounds like you may have too many lights on the #8 circuit. If the lighting load is greater than 15 amps it will blow the fuse when you turn on enough lights to exceed the 15 amps. Disconnect a few of the lights to bring the load below the 15 amp limit, and see if it resolves the fuse problem. You could increase the fuse size to 20 amps, but this is not usually advisable as the fuse is sized to protect the circuit components. If its not a result of having too much lighting on the circuit, then I would look for a bare wire which may be contacting the car chassis. The battery is grounded to the car frame, so any power source which touches the chassis will result in a dead ground, which will cause the fuse to blow. I would suggest getting a multimeter to check to see if you are getting power to the left fog light. If you are getting power, then the problem is with the bulb or light fixture. If you are not getting power, then I'd look for a blown fuse or faulty switch.
Q: Hi I have a 32v buss AGC 15A fuse that burned out can I put my buss AGC 20 instead or do I NEED to buy the 15Thank you,Rob
Strongly suggesting that you don't do that. Something caused the fuse to blow and putting a higher amp fuse can cause a fire or worse.
Q: I looked inside the tv and there in no burn marks or components. What would cause the fuse to blow out. Can anyone help me?
might be shorted horiz out D3402 or a partially shorted flyback transformer, or both
Q: I have an ICS M4A1 (Carbine: ICS-41 Retractable). Every time I put a 30 amp flat blade fuse in, once I connect the battery the fuse immediately blows. I think there might be a shortage in the wiring somewhere. Does anyone have a quick fix for me? Thank you SO much.
Yes, a blown fuse is always caused by a short (uhnot shortage, but short;-) A quick fix is to throw it away and get a new one, another is take it in to a repair shop, but there is no inexpensive 'quick fix' for a short, usually ever in anything. Electrical shorts or short circuits occur because there is a very low or no resistance connection between the terminals of the power source, i.e. the battery, adapter terminals, wires from the wall. This can be caused by: Two uninsulated conductors touching. A burned out component that failed by shorting. Foreign object that is conductive (pin, paperclip, bread sack tie, screw, etc.) contacting two conductors. Solder bridge on a PC (Printed Circuit) board. Internal short in a multi-cell battery or battery pack. Exposure of a PC board to non-distilled water or other liquids, even after the board is dried. Wire with metal terminal end coming loose and touching another wire or a PC board trace. And I'm sure that I've not listed all the potential causes for a short. (Oh, yeah, forgot PBJ(peanut butter jelly sandwich) in a VCR. Sorry, but there isn't a quick fix. Using a larger fuse may be tempting, but it would only worsen the problem should it NOT blow. Fuses blow to protect the equipment they are used in from permanent damage from shorts. Fuses that DON'T blow DONT protect equipment from shorts. They can, in some cases, do a great job of starting a camp fire;-) Best advice, take it to a repair shop and get it fixed.
Q: For example:RresistorCCapacitorLinductorVtubeQtransistorIs there a complete list of normal component designations?
Hi JH, try
Q: a. short circuit b. series circuitc. switch d. parallel circuit e.fuse f. electric power
Answer b) A series circuit only has one possible path for the electrons to move.
Q: 1997 Chrysler Sebring w/2.5L V6.Customer complaint: Blows 20A ASD fuse - sometimes twice in one day, other times runs fine for more than a week.I can duplicate the problem about every 4-5 minutes. I have installed an amp meter in the ASD fuse socket - when I jerk the throttle open the meter will pin to 40+ amps (very intermittant. It might take several times to duplicate.) It quickly returns to the normal 3-5 amp draw - often quickly enough that it doesn't even trip a 20A circuit breaker in series with the amp meter (but instantly blows the fuse if it is inserted)Unfortunately, more often than not, the circuit breaker will trip.I am at my wits end on this one. I have checked and rechecked the wiring and components associated with the ASD relay feeds. Obviously - I'm missing the problem!Any tips would be greatly appreciated - Thanks.
Why don't you do a amp test on the fuel pump circuit and keep in mind that if a fuse blows black inside that indicates a short. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way I'd try supplying the ASD circuit with a whole new ground and then see what occurs bec I still believe that its a wiring issue or bad ground or bad connection etc. Rick is right bec the PCM does monitor and control the ASD relay circuit but even the PCM could have a bad ground so check the grounds.
Q: I bought a 2003 1.4 Renault Megane for my first car and ended up doing 70 through a huge puddle and ruined my fuse box. I got a new fuse box from a 2004 1.6 Renault megane and put it in my car, but now the car feels like its not getting enough power to the engine, the electronic windows dont work as smoothly and also the window wipers wont go off. What is wrong with my car ?
would be a defective starter/ solinoid. If it became the alternator, the motor vehicle might initiate the warning lighting fixtures may well be on the sprint all the time and the 1st signes may well be as your utilizing alongside the radio wouold fade out, then the motor vehicle might decrease out and no capability in any respectthen you certainly wait and the battery might get better, and the motor vehicle might restart. yet might only run for a shorter distance. each nighttime you will possibly would desire to recharge the battery and interior the morning the motor vehicle might initiate first time every time. So i think of adjusting the alt became a waist of pennies. perhaps in case you may upload if the motor vehicle actuatly turns over once you place the substantial in and attempt to initiate it. or if each thing is ineffective?, whilst the engine wont initiate- does the radio paintings advantageous?. If it became a gasoline pump i might think of it would turn over and slutter to existence with what's interior the carb/injection gadget
Q: i replaced the old fuse after it blew and it keeps blowing when i plug it in. it calls for a 5A 125V 5mm X 20mm fuse could i replace it with a higher rated fuse? like a 6A or something, why do the new fuses keep blowing?
Do NOT keep replacing a fuse that keeps blowing! There is a serious internal fault that is causing excessive current draw that dramatically overheats internal components. You are likely to be causing more damage each time you do this. The unit needs professional servicing. Using a larger fuse increases the chances of the unit catching fire.
Q: I changed all the bad fuses, then I changed the switch, then I tested the motor by hooking up a 12V battery pack, and it worked just fine up and down. What else could be the problem and how do I test it?Also, the window and the door lock mechanisms don't work on the passenger front door, even from the master control on the drivers side door.
the window has a plastic belt on it behind the door panel that has broken or the teeth on it has stripped out.You can get the parts anywhere now.

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