DDSF607 series single-phase electronic type multirate ammeter

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Application

DDSF607 series single-phase electronic multirate ammeters are used to measure active energy with 220V,50Hz. It adopts latest MPU technics and wide-range digital measurement chip. High accuracy, wide measuring range, high stability, low power consumption and resonable construction are all its excellent features. the meter use special LCD and LED display. The meter has two types of measurment: positive and negative. It also has antifraud functions and supply pulse output for easy test.

Type and meaning

Specification

Main technical parameters

1、Conform to GB/T 15284-2002、DL/T 614-1997、DL/T 645-1997、IEC 61036:2000、GB/T 17215-2002;
2、Class index：1、2;
3、Power consumption：less than 2W(10VA);
4、Display：programmed setting display, no display when power off;
5、Multirate：wave peak、normal、wave bottom three-rate eight-section ;
6、Communication：supply infrared record, RS485 communication record(if applicable);
7、Clock accuracy：less than 0.5s/d(23℃);
8、Stable working（no citypower）current：＜10µA;
9、Battery：3.6V, 1.2Ah, reliable use time more than 75000 hours when power off;
10、Meter record date：at random，keep 12 months’ electric power.
11、Load representative date: at random.
12、Specified operation temperature：-25℃～55℃;
limit operation temperature：-25℃～60℃。

Outline and installation dimensions

Order note

Before order you should fill out the type, specification and quantities. If you have special requirement please negotiate with manufacturer.

Q: I wrote to the company and they said they can't (or won't) identify the thermal fuse rating, nor will they tell me where to get one. They told me to just buy a new fryer for $50. I don't want to do that, being that I know the fuse costs $2 (I just replaced on my coffee machine). The numbers on the old one are illegible. If I knew the specific rating, I think I could just scoot down to the local Radio Shack and get a new one, like I did for the coffee maker. I can find no service manual anywhere. I assume the rating has to be at least 450 degrees F, but I want to get some more info before replacing what is essentially a fail-safe protection device. If I get on that is rated to high, I run the risk of severely overheating the unit, and I have teenagers who may use it; too low, and it will blow before the oil gets nearly hot enough to fry my chicken. I know I can make the thing operate without the fuse, but I would like to replace it. Any info?: If the old fuse is open, it did what it was supposed to do. Until the cause is found and repaired it will continue to open when it is used. Take the unit in to a local service center and have it repaired or purchase a new unit. The reason the company will not give you the information you request is a product liability issue. If you install a fuse in a faulty unit and burn down your home they are concerned about an insurance claim. For $50 it is not worth risking your home with a fire and your insurance deductible is probably much higher than $50. All advice on this site is worth what you pay for it and that is the limit of the liability.

Q: i just don't know where to find this information!! I can't find it in my notes or in my teachers notes!!!: Components required: Polymerase Enzyme - This is the actual molecule that forms a secondary DNA strand by fusing complimentary nucleotides to a phosphate backbone Polymerase Enzyme Buffer - Keeps the mix stable Magnesium: Improves replication efficiencies dNTPs: The nucleotides A,T,C G - molecules required to form the secondary strand Primers - one complimentary to the upper DNA strand and another to the lower strand - these are short oligonucleotide molecules complimentary to the start end of the sequence you wish to replicate. It acts as an anchor from which replication starts. Water - to bulk up the reaction to the required volume.

Q: -Approximately 800 miles on the bike-58 cm. aluminum frame (Ideal for 6' to 6'3)-Alexrims--R500 rims-Maxxis Fuse tires-Shimano SORA flightdeck and components (derailer works well but needs configuring as there is a bit of: Scott is a good company. The speedster models are there lower end stuff. But if it works OK for $250 I'd buy it. 800 miles isn't much if cared for. If it's the one available on Craig's list buy if in good shape. You can't touch a road bike for $250 new.

Q: I need to know so I can replace it without screwing anything up. I read that in some of the newer cars the radios are connected to the headlights, heater etc. your help will be greatly appreciated.: Where on earth did you read that?

Q: I found a 2x12 Line Six Spider III amp for sale, the vendor claims that it can be fixed by installing fuses. Does this mean that the current fuses are blown, or that it never came with fuses? In the former case, how would I be able to tell if the fuses are blown, or if it only needs new fuses and there's not some other underlying issue?: Ripley, the Line 6 tube amplifiers can have both externally-accessible and internal fuses. A fuse can blow from a voltage spike, or from malfunctioning internal components; it is there to protect circuitry from further damage. Merely replacing a fuse without understanding the underlying causes for failure is just a temporary solution, which at best may only delay the need for further repairs or replacements. If you are really interested in the amplifier, see if the seller will let you take it to a dealer for evaluation. For a modest cost, you will get the complete answer, and maybe save yourself some heartache. Best regards, Dana

Q: If I were to connect an appliance to something other than an electrical wall outlet for power and that device produced more volts / watts than what my appliance needs to work, would it mess it upand if so how to I control this?: if V I R, you are effectively increasing V while keeping R constant; so I through the device must increase. Power dissipated by the device I^2 R : so by doubling the applied voltage, you'd quadruple the power dissipated by the device. If you're lucky and the components can handle the additional heat dissipation requirement, then nothing will happen except the device will become quite hot to the touch. If the components can't handle the additional heat being generated, the device will burn out. If you're lucky, there is a single fuse or component that will burn out and break the circult; stopping the flow of current. If you're not lucky, then the device could continue to heat up and eventually catch fire. you need to buy/acquire/build a voltage converter/power supply -- something that will take the input voltage and current and output the voltage'/current required by the device. Running 12V electronics from a car lighter socket, you encounter this all the time. The DC adapter basically takes the raw 12.6V and ensures that the voltage/current specification required by the device are met.

Q: i forgot to switch to 230v when plugging in my american desktop infrance, there was a pop, and now it wont start. did i completely breakit or is there a circuit breaker or something i can fix: Try a new power supply, and hope for the best. Unless it is an older computer,there may not be a fuse. Good power supplies have some ability to extinguish the arc that is generated when the fuse blows. Failure to select a proper voltage rating will mean a lot of transient energy is let through by arcing and may be a fire hazard. Short answer: Take it apart. Be careful, as there is a lot of stored electricity and can give you a jolt. I use rubber gloves and shower shoes on a rubber mat.

Q: For my 2005 chevrolet malibu maxx, the front left turn signal isn't working. I changed the bulb still the bulb comes on; but doesn't blink. Per the manual, there's 3 fuse boxes. However, none of the fuses are called turn signal. One is called left headlamp low beam.In summary, does anyone the location for the turn signal fuse for a 2005 chevrolet malibu maxx? Thanks: You want the fuse panel behind the left trim panel in the trunk. Why GM put it there I will never be able to figure out. Have you had to replace any steering components yet?

Q: and also please note some useful web site in this field !: I migth add ground fault detectors and lightingrods

Q: could it be something other than the whole component.A friend of mine who is an auto detailer thought it could be a loose wire or fuse or something.Please let me know. It will save me $ 80 more or less: Probably not the fuse (or none of the brake lights would work). Could be a loose wire, a bad bulb, or a bad ground.

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