DDSF607 series single-phase electronic type multirate ammeter
- Ref Price:
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- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
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| Application |
DDSF607 series single-phase electronic multirate ammeters are used to measure active energy with 220V,50Hz. It adopts latest MPU technics and wide-range digital measurement chip. High accuracy, wide measuring range, high stability, low power consumption and resonable construction are all its excellent features. the meter use special LCD and LED display. The meter has two types of measurment: positive and negative. It also has antifraud functions and supply pulse output for easy test. |
| Type and meaning |
| Specification |
| Main technical parameters |
1、Conform to GB/T 15284-2002、DL/T 614-1997、DL/T 645-1997、IEC 61036:2000、GB/T 17215-2002; |
| Outline and installation dimensions |
| Order note |
Before order you should fill out the type, specification and quantities. If you have special requirement please negotiate with manufacturer. |
- Q: I wrote to the company and they said they can't (or won't) identify the thermal fuse rating, nor will they tell me where to get one. They told me to just buy a new fryer for $50. I don't want to do that, being that I know the fuse costs $2 (I just replaced on my coffee machine). The numbers on the old one are illegible. If I knew the specific rating, I think I could just scoot down to the local Radio Shack and get a new one, like I did for the coffee maker. I can find no service manual anywhere. I assume the rating has to be at least 450 degrees F, but I want to get some more info before replacing what is essentially a fail-safe protection device. If I get on that is rated to high, I run the risk of severely overheating the unit, and I have teenagers who may use it; too low, and it will blow before the oil gets nearly hot enough to fry my chicken. I know I can make the thing operate without the fuse, but I would like to replace it. Any info?
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- Q: I have a 96 Camry and it died on me Friday sputtered out when I started it the rmp's shot up then went down then I put it in drive and then died I put new battery on, new starter, alternator is good and new ignition switch and when I turn the key all that comes on is the lights and radio and when I turn the key it doesnt sound like its trying to start just nothing no click click click
- Ensure that your starter is getting power if it is not check that you installed it correctly. most common ones come with three wires a ground, power and ignition. If it is not getting power when you turn the ignition then check the starter fuse. Another way is to check the starter directly, you can use a screwdriver or wire to connect the power and ignition wires to spin the starter be careful not to make contact with the ground. If it spins then you have another problem, however if it does not spin then you problem is the starter itself, an electrical connection, fuse, or electrical component related to the starter. Note that even something as simple as a gear selector for an automatic or the clutch pedal for a manual can cause this problem. for automatics they will only start in P or N. for manual the clutch must be fully pressed. My guess is you are having starter related issues because any other mechanical problem would at least let your starter spin even it the engine does not start. Do you have any more useful information?
- Q: a 1997 sebring JXI and the fog lights didnt work. Got new bulbs, replaced 'em and didnt work. Checked and all fuses are fine what is are some common 90's sebring electric problems
- There are really only three options left and I would check them in this order: The fog light relay (most likely underhood) The fog light switch The wiring between all components A volt/ohm meter can test all of the above.
- Q: I was trying to replace my ceiling light bulb in my 97 honda accord and yes i was stupid and didn't disconnect the negative terminal from the battery. And yes i blew out one of the fuses. I replaced the fuse and then noticed that my passenger door the one right behind the driver that when i open it the ceiling light wont come on but all the rest of the doors when i open it the ceiling light would come on. I thought it was the door jam switch so i replaced it and it still won't come on. I also checked every single fuse and all of them are still good. So i'm guessing that its the wiring so now i am wondering if its my wreckless short circuit that may have caused the wiring damage. Or short circuit does not cause wire damage. By the way my car only has one interior light which is that ceiling light. Thanks in advance for any answers!
- Look up how to use a VOM read it. Any sufficiently advanced technology is indistinguishable from magic. They got you at DC Electricity in use for the last 200 years. LOL!
- Q: i recently opend up my ps2 and took the power board off of the console and wired in an led light through the 4 prongs that go to the power board, i was super carefull with everything and i put it together, it worked and the led light was too weak for i and i took it off, put it back together and it worked fine again, so i left it sitting for all night and i noticed i kept hearing a loud ringing noise like an old tv noise, so i went over to my ps2 because i noticed the red standby light was off and i thought i left the switch off in the back, so i switched it back and fourth and nothing happend, so i was like aww crap so now im in this situation to where when i turn the back switch on it just rings loud and nothing happens, what could be the problem?
- You'd need to look at a schematic and say exactly where these prongs were, where they are on the power board. It could be a lot of different things. Adding that LED light to those prongs may have cause a power spike or fluctuation on part of the board and blown a fuse or damaged a component. It may have connected circuits that were never meant to be connected, delivering too much power to something. Sure the light worked, but electricity will flow through any closed circuit, that doesn't mean it's meant to be closed. Those power boards are designed to take 120V and chop it up into different-sized tiny little bits to be passed of to the primary board and its sensitive circuits. They are complicated, and you shouldn't mess with them unless you have a schematic and know what you're doing. Even dropping a paper clip or screw on it can accidentally cause an overflow and destroy some circuits. It's why solder is made with lead, it prevents flakes of tin from shedding off and ruining the circuits. Since it is ringing, it sounds like you have mostly wiped out your power board's relays. Not much you can do about that except replace them. And I wouldn't do that for a good long while if I were you, until the capacitor cools back down again. A TV technician would be able to open it up, find the high-voltage circuits and discharge them. I'm guessing you're not a TV technician.
- Q: I checked all fuses they are ok.
- Could be that your cam possition sensor is shorted or has a broken wire running to it.Check for voltage at the plug in.(8 volts)If not wiggle the wire to see if voltage will show.
- Q: I just purchased an corsair 750W power supply, and the input is mentioned as 90-264V 10A, Now on the plug that connects to wall socket to power it says 13A 250V (UK Pin) Now i am using it in asia, using an simple adapter but inorder to plug other things like speakers and screen i am buying an surge protector (spike guard).Now at what Amp shall i buy spike guard ? Rated 15A or 10A - As this is what available in my country. PS: The fuse power on the inbuilt fuse on the power plug is 13A. Also inform if i buy a 15A Spike guard and the usage say is only 10A is their a con like, smoking the pc components incase of sum overcurrent?
- It is always ok if you have more Amps then needed. If you go under of what the devices needs then it will simply burn.
- Q: i forgot to switch to 230v when plugging in my american desktop infrance, there was a pop, and now it wont start. did i completely breakit or is there a circuit breaker or something i can fix
- Try a new power supply, and hope for the best. Unless it is an older computer,there may not be a fuse. Good power supplies have some ability to extinguish the arc that is generated when the fuse blows. Failure to select a proper voltage rating will mean a lot of transient energy is let through by arcing and may be a fire hazard. Short answer: Take it apart. Be careful, as there is a lot of stored electricity and can give you a jolt. I use rubber gloves and shower shoes on a rubber mat.
- Q: I'm getting a MA audio hk898 ampit says 1200 RMS bridged at 2 ohms, but its got 2 40 amp fuses, what can those fuses actually hold when it comes to watts, just curious.
- If your battery voltage is 14.4 then it should handle 1152 Watts. So therefore either your amp has slow-blow fuses or your amp doesn't put out 1200 Watts RMS.
- Q: I have an 04 ford focus. My car died after stopping it for about 5 minutes. Tried jumping it twiceonce with old cords, and again with new ones. Oh andI reversed the polarity by accident the 2nd time.I never noticed any signs of my battery dying before this occurrence. I replaced my battery myself and now my radio will not turn on. No other problems, all other lights, brake lights, blinkers, wipers, and auto locks still work. What could have happened? I checked all the fuses, and could see that they were still intactdo I need a new radio/cd player?HELP!~music-less in tx :[
- MAybe a stereo with an anti theft. If the battery is removed, it requires a code to enable it again
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DDSF607 series single-phase electronic type multirate ammeter
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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