DDSF607 series single-phase electronic type multirate ammeter
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- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
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| Application |
DDSF607 series single-phase electronic multirate ammeters are used to measure active energy with 220V,50Hz. It adopts latest MPU technics and wide-range digital measurement chip. High accuracy, wide measuring range, high stability, low power consumption and resonable construction are all its excellent features. the meter use special LCD and LED display. The meter has two types of measurment: positive and negative. It also has antifraud functions and supply pulse output for easy test. |
| Type and meaning |
| Specification |
| Main technical parameters |
1、Conform to GB/T 15284-2002、DL/T 614-1997、DL/T 645-1997、IEC 61036:2000、GB/T 17215-2002; |
| Outline and installation dimensions |
| Order note |
Before order you should fill out the type, specification and quantities. If you have special requirement please negotiate with manufacturer. |
- Q: Hi there,I've been given this task to recognize the different types of power poles and their electrical equipments. The images are in the following link. I have encircled the equipments and components that are needed to be NAMED.
- Most of these are insulators. A, D, E G are pin or post insulators B, C F are suspension insulators. The items circled in magenta on F and in yellow on G are fused disconnect switches.
- Q: I was preparing to drive my car at night.as i turn on the lights smoke puff out just beneath the dashboard near the instrument panel.all the lights are ok except my panel which is pitch black.I cant see the speedometer,tachometer etc.Smell of burned plastic fills the cabin atmosphere.The car engines has no problem.
- one of the wires short circuited, that is on the parking light circuit. without anything using the power the wire overheated and burnt the plastic coating. Shouldn't be very much to fix since you know what caused it and where it had the smoke.
- Q: I have already checked the fuses and they are good. I have no power going to either headlight fuse and I also have no power going to the heater control switches. I did an engine swap and I installed a 4.3L chevy engine in it and I got rid of some of the electronic components in the cab and in the engine compartment. Tail lights, dash lights, and turn signals work off of switch.
- Hi ricky messing with a toyota is not a good idea due the complex nature of it's electronic systems so you really might need a specialist here who knows how it will cost you dearly.
- Q: i have 2 12 mtx tr75s and a 1000w alpine amp and a 4 gauge boss wiring kit i blew the 60a fuse that came with it within 2 days and blew the 80a today after just buying it should i go with the 100a or 125a agu fuse
- the fuse is there to protect the amp.if you keep raising the amperage of the fuse you could risk damaging the amp. If you are blowing fuses too easy one of the first things I would check is make sure that all connections are tight and secure, meaning not touching any metal or any other wires this goes for the amp wires and the speaker wires.also the amp is designed to operate at a certain ohm level, ex. (1 ohm, 2 ohm, 4 ohm or 8 ohm) 1 and 2 ohms are usually used for spl contest, 4 ohms is the average with cheaper amps and subs. Since you said you have 2 12's you may have it wired up in a 2 ohm configuration while the amp can only take 4 ohms. The way you wire the speakers vary based on how many voice coils each speaker has and the ohms of those voice coilsI'd say figure out what ohms the subs are and then figure out what ohm your amp is stable at and search multiple speaker configurations. example, lets say the subs are 4 ohms and and the amp is stable at 4 ohms, your search would be wiring configuration for 2 sub woofers on a 4 ohm amp once you get that figured out put the fuse that was rated fir the amp back in and try again, if problem persist i would start taking to the place you bought it.
- Q: i changed abad bulb indash all was good until i ran the car now no lights
- check the fuses one may have blown. if so change it and see if it blows again. if this happens, take the instrument cluster back out and check for a pinched or naked wire
- Q: For example:RresistorCCapacitorLinductorVtubeQtransistorIs there a complete list of normal component designations?
- Hi JH, try
- Q: I have a 1973 vw beetle. My indicators don't work, as well as my fuel gauge and alt and oil lights. The alt or the oil lights don't come even when you turn the ignition. The headlights work so it's not a fuse. Hazard lights still work and show up on the dash. Can you please tell me what it is
- Don't discount the fuse idea until you have checked them all, the headlights work off a different circuit. Since you have lost so many functions, check the earth wire between each of the components/lamps. The Beetle uses a brown wire as earth and it is connected to several components before terminating on the bodywork. Is the flasher relay working correctly? they are cheap to replace but new ones look completly different to the original so take a note of which wire goes to each (numbered) connector. This unit too is earthed by means of the clip which fixes it to the body. Please don't attempt to run the car without knowing that the oil pressure light is working The engine will destroy itself in seconds without oil pressure.
- Q: I have a problem. I have an outlet that has a computer with a 500w psu, stereo, printer, two monitors, and a external hdd. The problem is that the outlet fuse keeps blowing and I cant figure out why. Im pretty sure im not exceeding the maximum power usage and I have already replaced the outlet. Im worried that one of my components may be shorting and leaking current but I dont know how to check. I do know however that it has nothing to do with the electrical infrastructure of my house because my father is using the exact same outlet now for his computer and hes not experieced the outlet blow yet.How can i find out which component is cause the problem?
- unplug each component one at a time, switch the component to another outlet (use an ext. chord if needed). Run the remaining components as normal for a few days or until it normally blows. If it doesn't blow, try a different component and so on.
- Q: i just upgraded from a p200-2 to a t500.1 they are rockford amps. i had the p200 powering two alpine type r's. abc warehouse told me i was severely underpowering them and continuing to do so would ruin them. they hooked up 4 gauge wiring but kept my fuse and fuse holder. i plan on buying the bigger fuse holder and the 200 watt or voltage (idk how they measure them) fuse for the amp but i was wondering if i could use it for a couple weeks until i have the time and 40 bucks to buy and install these parts. they also told me that my jvc cd player doesnt have the right input for subs even tho ive been there 3 times with that same cd player and they never told me this. heres a list of my stuff. 2 alpine type r 12 inch subs in a q-logic ported box. a jvc cd player ( i payed round 150) a rockford t500.1 amp, 4 gauge power and ground wires, 8 guage rcas, and remote wire, a fuse holder that came with a 8 gauge amp wiring kit and a 80 watt fuse. what would you do next if you were in my situation?
- The guy above me is rightexcept for one part Surprisingly, too little power can also damage your subwoofer — in fact, it's actually more common than damage caused by overpowering. Too little power WILL NOT DAMAGE ANY SPEAKER!!!!! And it is in no way more common than damage by underpowering. It is true that underpowering subs will damage them is a myth. It most likely got started when a couple of know nothings got together and started tinkering with the settings on their amp. Theory goes like this. They probably had too small of an amp and were messing with the gain. Gain is not to be used as a volume control, but as a way to match the RMS being produced by the source to the input of the amp. So, that being said, the know nothings had an amp that was too small for their particular setup, which would be perfectly fine if the gain was set right. But, their amp wasn't producing enough watts to provide sufficient volume for them, so they crank up the gain to max, which is what caused the subs to blow. Whenever you crank up the gain on an amp that is too small for a particular setup, you're basically telling the amp to produce more power than it is able to. As a result the amp clips the audio signal and it becomes distorted. The distortion for the clipped audio signal that was achieved by improper gain settings of an amp that was to small is what caused the subs to blow. Not underpowering.
- Q: I tried to add a new radio to it. The wires touched each other, a spark. I tried to fix the fuses. I take one out while the car is on. And I try to start the car without the fuse. I did replace the fuse. The Turn signals still dont work, and neither does the dashboard light up. Why is that?
- Most likely, you still need to replace the rear lights fuse. Most domestic and imports were built to show no light on the dash board in order to indicate that rear lights are not on working order. For the signal light, you must replace the dimmer. The dimmer is a cylinder shaped component (about 1.5 inches diameter) typically located on the same fuse block. Just pull it out and replace it with a new one. Good luck!
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DDSF607 series single-phase electronic type multirate ammeter
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- China Main Port
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- -
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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