• DDS607series single-phase electronic ammeter System 1
DDS607series single-phase electronic ammeter

DDS607series single-phase electronic ammeter

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Application

DDS607 series use digit energy measurement technics and SMT technics. key parts use famous company's components to ensure the reliability and use life. The product has antifraud function to measure AC energy with reference frequency 50Hz or 60Hz.


Type and meaning
Normal operation and installation conditions

1、Specified working temperature range: -25℃~55℃;
2、Limit operation temperature range:-40℃~70℃;
3、Relative humidity less than 85%(under 23℃);
4、No corrosive medium in the air。


product specifications
Main technical parameters

1、Class index:1、2 ;
2、Operation voltage range:0.9Un-1.1Un;
3、Reference frequency:50Hz、60Hz;
4、Power consumption:<1W / 5VA;
5、Conform to GB/T 17215 -2002 (IEC 61036:2000) standard;
6、Good temperature characterstics, keep good accuracy from -25℃ to 55℃;
7、Good accuracy under lower load;
8、High online measure accuracy;
9、 Easy mounting(nothing to do with mounting place);
10、High overload capabality(more than 6 times);
11、No variation after transportation;


Outline and installation dimensions


Q: can somebody please explain the parts marked in red on the following image
The item marked 200mA is a fuse. The 4- 47000 ohm resistors are forming voltage dividers, each pair providing a voltage of 2.5V to the 2 centre pins of that plug. The 2.5 V on each is positive with respect to the lowest plug's pin. There is unlikely to be any load on the 2.5V., it is just providing a voltage.
Q: I have a 1982 Prelude, and everytime I try to connect my battery, the 55 amp main fuse (located in the engine wall by the negative battery cable) blows. Any ideas? Did I get a battery that is too big for the car?
Battery too big is not the problem. I am confused by the description of the fuse placement as I am not familiar with your particular auto but a typical installation would have the main fuse on the + side. Is it possible you are reversing the polarity by hooking + cable to the - of battery. Did this problem start with new battery?
Q: I recently blew a 25a fuse in a mini fridge which was soldered in. I currently don't have a 25a fuse to replace it with so what would happen if I used a 30a fuse instead?
the short answer is probably nothing. the fuse is oversized compared to the breaker feeding the circuit because when the motor starts a large inrush current flows for a short time before the load stabilizes. It would be nice to get the right fuse but in this case I doubt that it is a crisis as the circuit feeding the fridge is already fused at 15 or 20 amps.
Q: have issue with couple of thing on a ford galaxy 1999 2.3 ghia w/airconis there a relay box in it as checked all fuses for the issuse i have and i lost even with the propper manual, rear passenger door wont open or window wont work, air con not workin and the blower that you can switch on to let air at ya face for cold or hot not working. now i havew done loads to the car and so far ive done well but this is bugging - can anyone help. what things have i missed.
Ford Galaxy Electrical Problems
Q: I have a 2001 ford expedition. It has been completely fine until today I started it up which it starts fine but then I noticed my windows wouldnt roll down so I was like ok but then it wouldnt come out of park at all not even when I shut it off and turned the key a little.Additional DetailsOk i figured out that the #15 5amp fuse was blown but when I replaced it, it blew again does anyone know about that?
maybe too much electricity is going to the amp
Q: 1991 Honda Civic Si Hatchback. The fuse is hot with car off. It gets an immediate ground short when I turn it on. Wiring schematic says this wire goes directly to ECU. So if it were shorted against body somewhere, it would blow fuse key on of off.Tomorrow I will trace wire directly to ECU and clip it off. If it is ungrounded until I turn on key and then goes to ground when I turn on key, is that sufficient proof that my ECU has an internal short and is junk to be replaced.I hate replacing parts then finding that was not the problem.
Check main relay. It may be faulty. Below Driver's Dash.
Q: Hello. I have a Peugeot 306 1.4i (2000). My battery wasn't holding charge and having tested it it became apparent one of the cells was damaged. Having replaced the battery the car still won't start. Prior to replacement of the battery the car had needed jump starting a few times.So when I turn the key to on position the lights on my dash light up. If I try to actually start car power dies. If I try and turn main lights on from this position - power dies. Once the power has died I can turn the key and no lights will come on dash. To get juice round the car again I can wobble the battery and power seems to flow back through car. Possibly there is an issue with battery connectors?I ran a multimeter over the main fuses with the key in on position and all the main fuses in the front have 12v running across them - so fuses good I'd think. This means the starter motor could be gone and draining all power? Maybe?Any ideas / suggestions would be spot on! Cheers.
get new terminals fitted .and as suggested charge battery ,car will start ok with that done .rem to tighten battery terminals well .you said you wiggle them and lights come on . that suggests not tight enough ok .all the best .
Q: How to turn the idle down?
fuse panels: 2 one under the dash above the driver's side kick panel and there's another under the hood, between the battery and the windshield. neither will let you adjust idle nor are there any fuses inside that will affect the idle. How to turn the idle down? Now that depends on why the idle is high. BUT, there is a screw on the throttle you can turn which is the ONLY official way of adjusting the idle. The idle adjustment screw ON THESE TRUCKS is known for having the o-ring harden which then allows engine vibrations to cause the screw to vibrate and back out which in turn will cause the idle to increase. Pull the screw out, install new o-ring, then adjust your idle back where it should be. Now wasn't that easier than the 2 page reply above me?
Q: Hi. I recently had my 2.7L engine rebuilt on my 04 Santa Fe. I've got a problem with my radio now. Most times it wouldn't work. I checked all fuses, their good. The only way that I would get it to work is if i remove the fuse corresponding to the radio and put it back in. The radio would work as long as the car is on. If i turn the engine off, I'd have to do the same thing with the fuse to get the radio to work again. I'm guessing it's either a shortage somewhere or something's grounded. Any ideas on this problem? or where should I start looking? Thanks All.
The radio has a second fuse for memory, although it is used by other components so you would notice that worth a second look though! Check all the fuses with a lest light or a volt meter, if they're all are ok then its likely your radio, they are rather problematic
Q: i replaced the old fuse after it blew and it keeps blowing when i plug it in. it calls for a 5A 125V 5mm X 20mm fuse could i replace it with a higher rated fuse? like a 6A or something, why do the new fuses keep blowing?
Kenwood Ka-995

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