D & DG Sectional Multistage Centrifgual Pump

D & DG Sectional Multistage Centrifgual Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Specifications

Application
Power station
Petro chemical industry
Water treatment
Steel factory

Application:

Power station

Petro chemical industry

Water treatment

Steel factory

Pulp & paper

Performance Range:

Capacity: Q ~800 m³/h (~3522 gpm)

Head: H ~1200m (~3937 feet)

Operating temperature: T -80°C~+180°C

Description:

All spare parts are designed into standard size, the middle section is sealed by O ring and connected by bolts outside of the middle section. Metal composite wave tooth gasket can be used in special occasion.
The suction section and discharge section is generally foot mounted, and centerline mounted when the liquid’s temperature more than 150 °C.
Each type have two sets of impeller/guide vane, and the TDY pump have a wide high-efficiency zone. Changeable wear ring to seal between pump casing and impeller. Most axial forces is balanced by hydraulic balanced devices and other are balanced by thrust bearing.
Grease lubrication or oil lubrication.

Standard material:

According to API610 standard

Q: We have a private well with a 40 year old water pump that is rusting away, and sounds like a truck. It's a double jet well pump sitting on a tank, with a second tank to one side that it's also connected to (with a thick pipe). I don't quite understand why there are two tanks (there's a third which is obviously the hot water). I'm guessing one of these is to hold water, and the other to provide air pressure? In any case, the pump runs OK, it doesn't leak, and provides plenty of pressure. It is just unbelievably loud. I've been told that replacing the bearings might take care of this problem, but seeing how the tank the pump rests upon (with a thin tube connecting it to the pump) is rotting away, and the system is older than I am, should I just replace the whole thing?: It sounds like you have two pressure tanks. I am going to guess that the one under your pump probably went out and instead of taking it out and re-plumbing everything they just spliced in a new tank. You can get a re-build kit for most pumps but it sound like your pump is pretty old and probably being held together with faith and rust and taking it apart might cause more problems. What I would do is price out what the re-build cost and what labor might be against what a new system might be. If you decide to go with a new system I would suggest looking into getting a submersible pump, using the same tank but making sure it is in a good location and plumbed with a union. when your pressure tank finally goes out it is going to weigh a ton and trying to move it around plumbing can be difficult. good luck and happy holidays.

Q: yesterday the electric went out for a while we had some big storms and now the water doesnt work, the pump is running but there is no water coming out, i need help on how to fix it, please. hurry: You might need a new foot valve. That keeps the water from draining back into the well. Depending on what type of pump you have, could be at the bottom of the well. To bleed the well, you need to remove the plug on the motor...it looks like a nut...about 3/4. You remove that and fill with water...when its full, turn the pump on and keep filling it till it gushes out...put the plug in (with new teflon tape) and it should work. Be careful not to touch the electrical, could get shocked. Its easy if the foot valve is good.

Q: As I wrote last night, I have a Isuzu Rodeo V6 3.2L 4X4. I guess I misunderstood my husband. I talked to him this morning and he said that it did overheat but the gauges on the inside of the car wasn't showing that it was overheating. It wasn't spewing coolant but the coolant that was just filled up a couple of weeks ago is empty. Does anyone know what the problem is?: you need to have your coolant system pressure checked asap,by a technician at a shop you trust,,get some friends recomendations,if you dont have a regular mechanic. while you dont list the year,or milage of your izuzu, water pumps can fail at any time,and i have replaced them under warrenty,on vehicles with as little as 20000 miles on them. a failed water pump can cause the overheating,,a stuck thermostat,can cause overheating,also a partially clogged radiator can cause this problem,but diagnosis should be done by a reputable shop. one last problem that can cause the overheating,is blown headgaskets,or a cracked head,an exsperienced technician can detect this by performing a hydrocarbon test on your coolant system. also you said your temperature gauge is not working? have a technician check the temp gauge sending unit,,it sounds like it needs replacement. i know car troubles are hard to swallow this close to CHRISTMAS,but get the vehicle to a shop asap,driving the vehicle while its overheating can cause perminent engine damage. i hope this information helps you

Q: Why should we pump water into a pump when the country uses a pump to pump it?: Because it is not a self-priming pump, so add water, otherwise there is no pressure can not afford

Q: antifreeze leaking from the water pump. antifreeze wont stay in car, car overheating. 96 chevy cavalier. 2.4: Is it leaking from the waterpump itself or the gasket.It may be overheating because its out of water rather than a faulty water pump if the gasket is bad.

Q: Im looking at putting a little cabin on my property for hunting. i have a 200 gallon under ground water tank for fresh water. I'm needing a pump to run water into the cabin for a sink toilet and possibly a shower. does anyone know what style pump i will need so that it does not constantly build up pressure when not in use that way i don't burn it up.: The way wells work is there's a pump at the bottom. It pumps water into a holding tank that has a diaphragm separating water from an air charge. There's also a pressure sensor switch that kicks the pump on when the pressure in the water tank drops below 40 PSI and shuts it off when it reaches 60 PSI. Well water systems don't just run the pump constantly, or they would burn up. What you want to do is use your storage tank as a source. Pump that into a smaller holding tank from a well water system so that when you run the water you run it from the pressure in the holding tank. When the pressure is low enough the main tank pump will pump up the pressure in the holding tank back to 60 PSI and shut off again. It's well worth it to make sure you don't have leaks. Otherwise your main tank will end up empty and the pump will run on and on. Which is another thing you have to watch for. You can install a float level switch so that if the water in the main tank drops below a certain level it shuts the pump off. AND you can also have it switch a warning light on so you know when the big tank is empty. Hope this helps. '')

Q: Power went out of my house and we just had it restored, though now the water is no longer running. We called the people who installed our pump and they told us they would need to dig up the well which is going to cost $1500. However i remember a time before where this happened and all we needed to was reset the switch. Do you think these ppl are trying to get me for my money? Does anyone know if there is a less expensive way?: What i don't understand is how they could know that they needed to dig up the well BEFORE they got there to troubleshoot it. They need to know circuits aren't tripped which easily could have happened if the well was running when the power went out, or if the power came back on......and the well pump just ran and ran without prime ( Without water running through it) So I would check the breakers or fuses first.......and call a second opinion, it doesn't seem right for them to quote you over the phone like that. Could be as simple as the well lost its prime.

Q: for the water pump in MY car that he has been using for his job!! He has threatned that the water pump cost $400 - 500 dollars but I didn't hear abut that when it was done!!! We are breaking up and it is My car but he says that he is taking te water pump out! Can he do that??? We also ave a daughte but I will ask about that later!! TRUST ME!!! I need to know about Custody Battles in Anoka or Hennipin County, Monnesota, 55433!!!! Please Help!!!!!!!!: Using a drill, drill a gap within the middle of the damaged bolt. If it is a a million/two inch bolt, use a three/eight or five/sixteen bit. If its a five/sixteen bolt, use a three/sixteen or eleven/sixty four bit, you get the proposal. Just go away sufficient sidewall of the bolt for the E-Z OUT to seize Make certain you middle the gap as first-rate you'll. Using a hammer and a sharpened punch to make a opening dimple makes it less complicated. Drill the gap to approximately a million/two inch deep. Go to any vehicle constituents retailer. Tell them you wish to have an E-Z OUT stud remover. Make certain it's the proper diameter for the gap you drilled. An E-Z OUT is a tapered bit with ridges spiraling down it is period within the reverse course than the threads of the bolt you're making an attempt to take away. Insert the E-Z OUT within the gap and switch counter-clockwise utilizing an adjustable wrench. Hopefully it is not caught to unhealthy and can pop out with ease. The most effective different choice is to drill the entire bolt out and re-thread the block. Good Luck. Wish I might do it for you. It is not intricate. If you may have anyone do it for you, do not get ripped off. A ethical and descent mechanic can do that in as low as five mins and is not going to cost you anymore than $20. There's most effective $five valued at of work in it, however mostly you ought to pay for proficiency. Hope this is helping.

Q: I have a quot;Rainbow Lifeguard Quiet One 6000external pump that I would like to use on a new chiller for my tank. The pump is rated at a little over 1500 gallons per hour. I'm debating between a couple of chillers, one that has a max flow rate of 1300 gph and another that has a max of 960.I know that you are only supposed to put any valves on the outflow side of the pump and lessening the flow to 1300 from 1500 doesn't seem like it would be that big of a problem, but I was curious it cutting it back to 960 would be hard on the pump in the long run. (I'm leaning towards the bigger chiller as although it may be overkill for my tank, it would let me have a little more water circulation.): ditto to magic

Q: we changed the water pump it went bad and there is still a knock in it please help it is running really sluggish: Have your radiator checked, replace the radiator cap and thermostate, look at all your hoses and you should be just fine,, 2002M7

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