WQ Non-clogging Sewage Submersible Pump Cast Iron Pump

WQ Non-clogging Sewage Submersible Pump Cast Iron Pump System 1

WQ Non-clogging Sewage Submersible Pump Cast Iron Pump

Ref Price:

Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

Inquire Now

Add to My Favorites

OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

You Might Also Like

Vertical Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

Vertical Turbine Pump

High Pressure Water Pump

Water Pump For Water Wells

QJ Vertical Submersible Deep Well Centrifugal Water Pump

DG Type Perfect Performance High Pressure Boiler Feed Water Pump

QBY Pneumatic Diaphragm Pump with High Quality

Application:
Agriculture, domestic wastewater, septic tank, mine, building construction, etc.

Service Conditions:
1. Submersion depth: 5m.
2. Liquid temperature up to +40°C.
3. Passage of suspended solid up to 55m.

Product Introduction:
WQ Non-clogging Sewage Submersible Pump Cast Iron Pump is composed of motor, water pump, seal. With volute impeller structure, the water pump is under the single or three phase asynchronous motor. Mechanical seal is used as motive seal between motor and pump, and oil resisting rubber O ring works as the static seal for the rabbet. Because of single or double channel, flow gap is big, then the discharge capacity of the pump is improved.

Performance Data:

MODEL	RATED Q (m3/h)	RATED H (m)	RATED POWER (kW)	RATED POWER (kW)	SPEED (rpm)	OUTLET DIA. (mm)
WQ100-25-11	100	25	11	380	1450	100
WQ180-11-11	180	11	11	380	1450	150
WQ300-7-11	300	7	11	380	1450	200
WQ100-30-15	100	30	15	380	1450	100
WQ180-15-15	180	15	15	380	1450	150
WQ250-11-15	250	11	15	380	1450	200
WQ100-35-18.5	100	35	380	1450	100	100
WQ180-20-18.5	180	20	380	1450	150	150
WQ250-15-18.5	250	15	380	1450	200	200
WQ100-40-22	100	40	380	1450	100	100
WQ200-22-22	200	22	380	1450	150	150
WQ250-18-22	250	18	380	1450	200	200
WQ400-10-22	400	10	380	1450	250	250
WQ180-30-30	180	30	380	1450	150	150
WQ250-22-30	250	22	380	1450	200	200
WQ600-9-30	600	9	380	1450	250	250
WQ180-37-37	180	37	380	1450	150	150
WQ350-25-37	350	25	380	1450	200	200
WQ600-12-37	600	12	380	1450	250	250
WQ180-45-45	180	45	380	1450	150	150
WQ400-30-45	400	30	380	1450	200	200
WQ600-15-45	600	15	380	1450	250	250
WQ800-12-45	800	12	380	1450	300	300
WQ250-50-55	250	50	380	1450	150	150
WQ300-40-55	300	40	380	1450	200	200
WQ600-20-55	600	20	380	1450	250	250
WQ800-15-55	800	15	380	1450	300	300
WQ200-60-75	200	60	380	1450	150	150
WQ300-48-75	300	48	380	1450	200	200
WQ600-25-75	600	25	380	1450	250	250
WQ800-20-75	800	20	380	1450	300	300
WQ1300-12-75	1300	12	380	1450	350	350
WQ200-75-90	200	75	380	1450	150	150
WQ300-55-90	300	55	380	1450	200	200
WQ600-30-90	600	30	380	1450	250	250
WQ800-25-90	800	25	380	1450	300	300
WQ1500-15-90	1500	15	380	1450	350	350

Q: My fiance's 2002 Cougar is overheating and we can't seem to diagnose the problem. As soon as she touches the gas pedal, the meter shoots to quot;Hquot;, but when we sit at a red light, it returns to center. I tried googling a few things and I've gotten a few things about the water pump, but I know next to nothing about cars. Where is it so I can look at it and feel dumb about STILL not being able to do anything? =D: Leave the water pump alone! It sounds to me like your gauge is malfunctioning. Every so often an electrical gauge will fail and give strange readings. It could either be the sensor that reads your coolant temp or the gauge body itself. Your car cannot go from overheating to fine while stationary at a red light. Take it to a shop (that specializes in electrical, they're out there) and tell them the temp gauge is acting wacky. If you INSIST to know the location of your water pump...should be on the passenger side of the car mounted to the engine. It's either driven by an accessory belt or the timing belt, I can't remember at the moment. Here's a trick also. Water pumps are designed to leak when they fail. See if you can find coolant spilling out of anywhere a few ounces at a time. Good luck!

Q: What does 'MCL' Unit stands for water pump. How can convert this Meter head of the pump. For example : 50 MCL to ------- MTR HEAD. What is the formula?: This Site Might Help You. RE: What does 'MCL' Unit stands for water pump.? What does 'MCL' Unit stands for water pump. How can convert this Meter head of the pump. For example : 50 MCL to ------- MTR HEAD. What is the formula?

Q: I was wonder if there is a water pump in the out drive, my boat is overheating we are think it could have something to do with the water pump: So far the only other answer is dead wrong. Your Bayliner has a raw water pump mounted inside the boat. Depending on HP it might be on the front of the crankshaft, or opposite the alternator on the AQ120-140 motors. Then there is a second water pump, which circulates the water through the block. There is no 3rd water pump. None of the Volvo engines have a water pump in the stern drive. I repeat none! The Raw water pump is a rubber impeller. The Thermostat can also be blocked and cause overheating. In some cases it's actually rust/crud that block the exhaust elbows which in turn blocks flow. If you run it on a flush attachment you might be able to check blockages by the amount of water exhausted from the transom/drive. You can edit your question with your specific engine. It takes 7 to 10 min to replace the water pump impeller. You do not have to prime the water pump....ever. Do not however run with out water. Either being in the lake,Bay. ocean, or using the correct flush attachment.

Q: s10 blazer with 130k original miles.. is leaking water but not from the water pump... just replaced it and still leaking from the same area... where are the freeze plugs located? where else could it be leaking from? it lools like its coming from harmonic balancer or close by!!: look at the housing that the water pump bolts to ,it may be busted and there's some of the bolts that go all the way through in to the block if those wasn't coated with sealant it will still leak from the bolts that hold the water pump on,and that will make it appear to be leaking from the front cover,you got two freeze plugs in the front and three down each side,good luck with it,

Q: Difference between primary hot water pump and two hot water pump: A hot water pump is a water pump circulating between the boiler and the heat exchanger, and the two hot water pump is a circulating water pump between the heat exchanger and the user. That is, there is no relationship between a water pump and heating users.

Q: I have a 1997 Honda Civic DX and i recently took it in to have its timing belt and water pump replaced. Since then, I have noticed a change in the cars performance. I have lost both gas mileage and power since i took my car in. The maintenance supposedly took the dealer twelve hours to complete which seemed a little odd to me. Do you think this is linked? I just remember getting a lot more miles to a tank of gas, and my car was about the same speed as a friend of mine's who now smokes me. Thank You.: If your Alternator belt is to loose, it would definitely cause your battery to start up, on alot of foreign vehicles they dont really have a tensioner but a bolt to loosen and tighten the belt, like toyotas, have maybe he didnt tighten it enough, you can self check pop your hood with the engine OFF and push the top of your alternator belt down if you feel alot of play in the belt he didnt tighten it, as far as timing belts and timing chains i know foremans in the field of automotive for 25 years and more who hate doing those because the slightest bit off and the car wont start, if its your timing belt you cant tell if it takes you forever to start the car up and then it finally starts up, sounds like your alternator belt is the problem

Q: can you replace a water pump gasket without replacing the whole water pump?: Of course you can they are two seperate items. Obviously you have to remove the pump to remove the gasket. Just make sure that the pump is in good condition, and use a little gasket silicone on the gasket. Dont overdo it with the silicone, just a thin smear on each side. Also make sure all traces of the old gasket are carefully removed from the pump and the block face. Any dirt or old gasket remnants left will cause a leak, so double check before replacing the pump to its position. Cheers

Q: Even when all water is shut off in the camper, my water pump keeps running. Even when the tank is completely empty. Does anyone know what is causing this?: I might be miss-understanding your question. If you have no water in the tank then the pump will run all the time because you won't build enough pressure in the system to shut it off. There should be a switch to turn it off manually. If your system has water in it and pump still won't shut off then it could be several different things: 1. Pump is bad and leaking internally... do you have good pressure at the faucet? 2. There should be a pressure cut-out switch somewhere near the pump. This switch should shutoff the pump when the ideal pressure is reached and prevent the pump from over pressurizing the system. Make sure it is not stuck closed. (May have to remove to test) Check for continuity across the terminals with pressure with the pressure on and off. If it doesn't' change... replace. 3. You could have a leak somewhere in the system not allowing the system to build pressure. 4. There may be a pressure relief valve somewhere in the system that is stuck open and dumping your pressure back into the suction side of the pump. Good Luck!

Q: How do you remove the water pump from bmw m42 engine?: Follow the instruction manual Drain the water first then remove the timing case release the tension from the belt, unbolt it and remove.

Q: The water pump is bat on the car I have. I have the part but I need to know if I should have someone install it for me or could I do it myslef. I heard it the timing may be messed up after the pump is in: It is a pretty big deal. Essentially, the timing belt has to be replaced because the pump is driven by the timing belt. It would be crazy to put the old belt back on unless there is less than ten thousand miles on the belt. For the same reason it is common practice to replace the water pump when replacing the belt. If you are going to do it yourself get a hefty impact wrench - 450 ft-lbs minimum - even if you have to rent it. Loosening the crank bolt by hand is a Herculean task and my 500 ft-lb impact struggles. Always use non-silicate antifreeze in your Honda. Silicates can cause the water pump seal to fail early. If in doubt, get the proper stuff from the dealer. I believe it is premixed, but in case my old mind is playing tricks always dilute antifreeze with purified water.

Send your message to us

*Email

*TEL

*Quantity

*Unit