CQB Magnetic Pump with High Quality Anti-corrosive

CQB Magnetic Pump with High Quality Anti-corrosive System 1

CQB Magnetic Pump with High Quality Anti-corrosive

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 1000 unit/month

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Quick Details
Place of Origin: Zhejiang, China (Mainland)

Brand Name: YONJOU

Model Number: CQB

Theory: Centrifugal

Pump Structure: Single-stage Pump

Usage: Water

Power: Electric

Standard or Nonstandard: Standard

Fuel: electric

Pressure: Low Pressure

Application: chemical

Certificate: CE/SGS/ISO9001:2008

Driven: Magnetic .Packaging & Delivery
Packaging Details: standard export wood case packing per CQB magnetic pump
Delivery Detail: normally one week according to quantity

Overview and purpose

The CQB type heavy (high temperature) magnetic drive pump (magnetic pump for short), usually by the motor, magnetic coupling and corrosion resistant centrifugal pumps composed. Its main feature is the use of a magnetic coupling to transfer power completely leak through the ask gap and spacer sleeves when outside the magnet rotary motor driven by magnetic coupling, the magnetic field lines, the role of the inner magnet synchronous rotation, the pump rotor motor without mechanical contact to transmit torque. In the power input end of the shaft, since the liquid is enclosed in the stationary isolation kit, no dynamic seal is thus completely without leakage. The CQB Series magnetic pump, magnetic pump joint design team developed a new type of leak Naifushibeng, quite the level of the late eighties of its technical and economic indicators with similar foreign products. The CQB Series Magnetic Pump Types and basic parameters in line with the JB / T 7742-1995 "small magnetic drive centrifugal pump types and basic parameters" standards and small magnetic drive centrifugal pump three standard supplementary regulations.

CQB Series heavy-duty magnetic pump (high temperature) applicable to the petroleum, chemical, pharmaceutical, metallurgy, electroplating, environmental protection, food, film and printing photos, water treatment, defense and other industries, the transportation of flammable, explosive, volatile, toxic, rare and precious liquid and ideal equipment for various corrosive liquids. For conveying suction pressure greater than 0.2MPa, the maximum working pressure of 1.6MPa, the temperature does not exceed 100 ° C, density not greater than 1600kg/m3, viscosity of less than 30 × 10-6m2 / S does not contain hard particles and fibers liquid.

Product Features
The CQB heavy duty magnetic drive pump flow is partly made of stainless steel has good corrosion resistance, organic acids, organic compounds, alkali, neutral solution and gases, the double helix bad carbon graphite bearing and carbide bushings mill, has a strong resistance to wear, to ensure that the life of the product, is the ideal pump leak-free transport of corrosive media.

Technical parameters
Performance:
Flow range: 3.2m3 / h ~ 100m3 / h
Head range: 8m ~ 50m
Motor power: 1.1kw ~ 55kw
Note: If you have special requirements, please contact our technical staff! (0577-67981766)
Model significance:
Examples: CQB50-32-160
CQ ------- magnetic drive pump
B ------- current component materials for metal
50 ------- suction port diameter (mm)
32 ------- row outlet diameter (mm)
160 ------- impeller nominal diameter (mm)

Specification performance data table

Model	Inlet Dia. (mm)	Outlet Dia. (mm)	Head (m)	Capacity (m3/h)	NPSH (m)	Power (kw)	Speed (r/min)	Efficiency (%)	Voltage (v)
CQB15-10-85F	15	10	8	1.8	6	0.12	2800	33	220/380
CQB20-15-105F	20	15	12	3	6	0.37	2900	33	220380
CQB32-25-125F	32	25	20	3.2	5	0.75	2900	35	380
CQB40-32-115F	40	32	15	6.3	6	0.75	2900	45	380
CQB40-32-145F	40	32	25	6.3	5	1.5	2900	42	380
CQB50-40-125F	50	40	20	12.5	3.5	2.2	2900	50	380
CQB50-40-160F	50	40	32	12.5	3.5	3	2900	46	380
CQB65-50-125F	65	50	20	25	4	3	2900	58	380
CQB65-50-160F	65	50	32	25	4	5.5	2900	56	380
CQB80-65-125F	80	65	20	50	4	7.5	2900	66	380
CQB80-65-160F	80	65	32	50	4	11	2900	64	380
CQB100-80-125F	100	80	20	100	4	11	2900	72	380
CQB100-80-160F	100	80	32	100	4	18.5	2900	70	380

Q:replaced water pump and thermostat, flushed, opened bleeder valve had long life red colored original coolant, no visible leaks obstruction, when became hot on highway, accelerated quickly and temp back down to norm, eventually after 3hrs driving o.heated stopped and got towed home, new water pumps fins/pulley not turning as freely as old one, no leak out of inspection hole, hoses good shape.2001 2.2l ohv sunfire, air cond.: get your vehicle up to operating temps and runs your hand along the core of the radiator from top to bottom. If it's cold at the bottom and hot at the top, it's plugged... Also I see where you bleed the system, might wanna check it again... air pockets are stubborn... Last but not least, have a C.O. test performed at a local radiator/automotive shop... This will tell you if you have a blown head gasket

Q:I need instructions: need to know what type of car and motor size

Q:I would like information to use an automotive water pump to ( or possibly another device ) to pump water approximately 60 feet (20 meters) elevation from creek without electricity. I only need enough water for 25 chickens. So we are not talking about a households supply of water.: You need a lot more information than that. My first question is: how do you intend to operate a pump of any kind without electricity? Another piece of information needed for this is how far the chickens will be kept from the creek. Required change in elevation is a factor, but so is the length of pipe through which the water will be pumped. Pumping water farther leads to more energy lost due to friction which means you need a larger pump to maintain the same flow rate. Diameter and material of pipe is also a factor, along with bends and expansions/contractions. Since you don't need exact values for this... the flow rate required wouldn't even need to be 5 gal per day. That's just a trickle of water, so basically any pump capable of pumping water up 60 feet through however long your pipe (probably PVC) will be, would probably be enough to maintain drinking water for your chickens. That being said... if this is near your house, why don't you just run a water hose out there? Put a cap on the hose, drill a small hole in the cap and leave the valve to the hose turned on all the time. You could test it by seeing how long it takes to fill up a gallon or something...

Q:i need to know an estimated cost for changing this cars water pumpthanks..: Too okorder i did this, and by doing so it saved me money, time, and the risk of getting ripped off.

Q:I have built my own spray rig to water some stock and tanks and a garden. It is a 330 gallon tank and has a spout at the bottom that i am going to connect a multi purpose pump to. My question is what size pump would i need? I have been looking at Atwoods and Tractor Supply and have seen some 2.1 GPM and a 5 GPM pumps i just don't know which would best suit me. i am planning on having the tank on the trailor and running water hose to a sprinkler or two. I would like to know how man sprinklers are possible on this type of system and still keep good pressure. Thanks for any answers.: Like the last person, what you've looked at won't do much. Just think of a 5 gal bucket and how fast do you want to fill it up. Also you want pressure behind this water if you want to water with it, so look at the psi on a pump as well as the GMP to determine what will work best for you. I'd say 40psi should be enough pressure to run hoses and sprinklers and remember that the smaller the hose at the end gives the highest pressures. Hope this helps you out some. I'll admit, I'm thinking of this as knowledge of water pressures more than GMP, but I think I've explained something good about your question. Good LUCK

Q:i want to hook a pressure booster pump to a well pump so i can have some pressure out of the well, is this doable?thanks!: That's an interesting question and it raises quite a few complicated hydro-engineering questions. If you used two pumps with the same output pressure, sequenced to switch on together, I do not believe you would increase the final output pressure over using just one pump. I'd think you'd need to have the first pump run to a pressure tank with a check valve and then use a booster pump to raise the pressure from that tank to the house meaning you'd need another pressure tank and check valve in the house. Have you looked at the air bladder diaphragm tanks that allow you to set the pressure by regulating the air pressure behind the bladder? This might be a better option than 2 pumps. Look at a company called Well-X-Trol.

Q:Water pump located on the ground floor of our 10 story building is leaking and therefore it is constantly running and spilling water into the parking lot. Therefore, a plumber shut the water pump off and opened a bypass valve.After we shut off water pump all units still have good water pressure so why do we need to replace water pump?When water pump is on the incoming city water gauge reads 60psi and the gauge measuring the water shooting up into the building reads 80psi. Now both gauges read zero.How can water coming from the city at 60psi travel all the way to the 10th floor without a boost? I do not understand what is happening.: It will be less pressure on 10th floor for sure. If everyone is showering or using water on 2 and 3, 10 wont have any pressure. Its probably time to replace gauges and fix the pump. May just need a seal and impeller adjustment. It also sounds like you need or need to replace the pressure switch that is supposed to only turn pump on when demand is high. Check it out. Run ad on craigslist for a pump man to check it out. If you need to replace pump go with an ANSI pump. All parts are interchangeable.

Q:Okay so earlier, I went to go test out my water pump and all on my 66 mustang 302. And I got it up to normal operating temp, and had the rad cap off. I gave it some gas, the coolant level didn't go down, instead it came out the rad pretty badly. I've been having overheating problems, and I have no leaks, i just replaced the thermostat a few days ago, it didn't help. I haven't seen any leaks around the weep hole on the water pump, or noises. Other than a belt that does need to be tightened a bit, you can hear the belt squeling a tiny bit. So do yall think it could be my water pump?: if it,s circulating then the pump is working. when the water goes down when you give it gas then the pump is drawing it down.

Q:I took my car to a repair shop today, cause it was overheating,After looking at it for a few minutes the mechanic told me that it was a water pump problem.They quoted me a price of $276 to totally replace itI called around to my local auto zone stores and found out that the actuall pump cost for a new pump was $39 dollars, and I can get rebuilt pumps for 19 bucks, Is it that labor intensive that it would take so long to put in a 39 dollar part for over 200 bucks labor. Is that a fair deal, or am I getting ripped off.Additional Details, I didn't let them do the job yet, I took the vehicle home and just parked it in my driveway.: My water pump costed 505 dollars to replace because it ruined other cooling unit components when it went. There is a bit of work to it, but the make and year of the car has a lot to do with it. I had a '94 Olds that did this and with them, you have to remove several engine parts just to get to simple things, let alone the more complicated stuff. $276 is a reasonable price for this to be done at a garage. The cheaper the water pump, the lesser that quality sometimes, and it may not last as long. Good luck!

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