• CQB Magnetic Pump with High Quality Anti-corrosive System 1
  • CQB Magnetic Pump with High Quality Anti-corrosive System 2
  • CQB Magnetic Pump with High Quality Anti-corrosive System 3
CQB Magnetic Pump with High Quality Anti-corrosive

CQB Magnetic Pump with High Quality Anti-corrosive

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Quick Details
Place of Origin: Zhejiang, China (Mainland)

Brand Name: YONJOU

Model Number: CQB

Theory: Centrifugal

Pump Structure: Single-stage Pump

Usage: Water

Power: Electric

Standard or Nonstandard: Standard

Fuel: electric

Pressure: Low Pressure

Application: chemical

Certificate: CE/SGS/ISO9001:2008

Driven: Magnetic .Packaging & Delivery
Packaging Details: standard export wood case packing per CQB magnetic pump
Delivery Detail: normally one week according to quantity

 

Overview and purpose

The CQB type heavy (high temperature) magnetic drive pump (magnetic pump for short), usually by the motor, magnetic coupling and corrosion resistant centrifugal pumps composed. Its main feature is the use of a magnetic coupling to transfer power completely leak through the ask gap and spacer sleeves when outside the magnet rotary motor driven by magnetic coupling, the magnetic field lines, the role of the inner magnet synchronous rotation, the pump rotor motor without mechanical contact to transmit torque. In the power input end of the shaft, since the liquid is enclosed in the stationary isolation kit, no dynamic seal is thus completely without leakage. The CQB Series magnetic pump, magnetic pump joint design team developed a new type of leak Naifushibeng, quite the level of the late eighties of its technical and economic indicators with similar foreign products. The CQB Series Magnetic Pump Types and basic parameters in line with the JB / T 7742-1995 "small magnetic drive centrifugal pump types and basic parameters" standards and small magnetic drive centrifugal pump three standard supplementary regulations.

CQB Series heavy-duty magnetic pump (high temperature) applicable to the petroleum, chemical, pharmaceutical, metallurgy, electroplating, environmental protection, food, film and printing photos, water treatment, defense and other industries, the transportation of flammable, explosive, volatile, toxic, rare and precious liquid and ideal equipment for various corrosive liquids. For conveying suction pressure greater than 0.2MPa, the maximum working pressure of 1.6MPa, the temperature does not exceed 100 ° C, density not greater than 1600kg/m3, viscosity of less than 30 × 10-6m2 / S does not contain hard particles and fibers liquid.

 

Product Features
The CQB heavy duty magnetic drive pump flow is partly made of stainless steel has good corrosion resistance, organic acids, organic compounds, alkali, neutral solution and gases, the double helix bad carbon graphite bearing and carbide bushings mill, has a strong resistance to wear, to ensure that the life of the product, is the ideal pump leak-free transport of corrosive media.

 

Technical parameters
Performance:
Flow range: 3.2m3 / h ~ 100m3 / h
Head range: 8m ~ 50m
Motor power: 1.1kw ~ 55kw
Note: If you have special requirements, please contact our technical staff! (0577-67981766)
Model significance:
Examples: CQB50-32-160
CQ ------- magnetic drive pump
B ------- current component materials for metal
50 ------- suction port diameter (mm)
32 ------- row outlet diameter (mm)
160 ------- impeller nominal diameter (mm)


 Specification performance data table

     Model                         Inlet Dia. (mm)Outlet Dia. (mm)Head (m)Capacity (m3/h)NPSH (m)Power (kw)Speed (r/min)Efficiency (%)Voltage (v)
CQB15-10-85F151081.860.12280033220/380
CQB20-15-105F201512360.37290033220380
CQB32-25-125F3225203.250.75290035380
CQB40-32-115F4032156.360.75290045380
CQB40-32-145F4032256.351.5290042380
CQB50-40-125F50402012.53.52.2290050380
CQB50-40-160F50403212.53.53290046380
CQB65-50-125F6550202543290058380
CQB65-50-160F6550322545.5290056380
CQB80-65-125F8065205047.5290066380
CQB80-65-160F80653250411290064380
CQB100-80-125F1008020100411290072380
CQB100-80-160F1008032100418.5290070380

Q: I've been noticing a difference in the temperature gage lately. The quot;change oillight has also been coming on and I just had an oil change not even a month ago, and the car isn't even due back for at least another month. I noticed there's a green/blue liquid in my driveway today, too. I looked under the car and something is leaking or dripping around the passengers side front wheel. More so the passenger-middle side. I've been told it could be the water pump.
Don't go blowing cash on a water pump just yet; It may be just a leaking radiator or heater hose. It would be wise to change the thermostat and check the condition of the coolant. (right here before summer) Perhaps pressure test the cooling system...that will tell you right away if the impeller seal is bad in the water pump. Check the radiator hoses at that time... replace as necessary. if your (assumed) coolant leak is right around the passenger front wheel the pressure test could possibly reveal a freeze plug leak. (replacement required to fix that) The labor will cost around $150 plus/minus $20.-and thats not even a good guess. I tell you this: if you were in my circle of friends, I would do it for nothing: Thats what people do for each other. Anybody that knows you that has the tools and ability should do the same... Try this: if you have your oil changed at a quick lube, ask the manager which one of his guys would be qualified for such a sidejob... any gearhead will jump at he chance to help a lady out make sure the job is done right instead of some greasemonkey f*cking it up. It will cost you much less than standard labor rate and the extra coinage in his pocket doesn't hurt. I'm not bagging repair shops, they deserve to make a living too, but every nickle counts nowdays... Let him diagnose the problem(s), take him to Oreilleys to make sure you get the right parts, and buy him lunch..... Enjoy your summer...an overheated car and related repairs will turn it sour in a hurry. (edit) wow,... if you have the dexcool, then yes thats orange. There's not anything on that side of the vehicle that would be that color. short of discolored and moldy a/c condensation (highly unlikely) if its brake fluid you would know it by now. power steering is red or clear, Even though I consider myself highly experienced, I'm stumped.
Q: When you are replacing a water pump on a vehicle, should you replace the timing belt on the vehicle as well?
It depends on the make of the car. Some Hondas and Meesoshitties require replacement of the timing belt whenever it is removed due to stress factors and crap. So it is always a good idea to go ahead and do since on a lot of front wheel drive cars you will have everything off in front of the timing belt anyways. So might as well do it right? Better that than end up on the freeway with a snapped timing belt. Not fun.
Q: I have a 1969 Chrysler with a new 3 core radiator. It still has the stock water pump and I am wondering if a high volume pump would make it run cooler at higher speeds. It runs hotter when you get off the freeway. I have flushed the system and installed a new thermostat. I also replaced the fan clutch. I am at a loss of why it still runs warmer than the 180* thermostat.
Sometimes I really wonder about Robert. Yeah, water boils at 212--AT ATMOSPHERIC pressure. But a cooling system is pressurized to RAISE the boiling point. So, ah, Robert is once again in left field. Because if you wait for it to boil over, you've probably already caused engine damage. You do NOT need a high volume pump. The 3 core radiator does NOT need more flow. The temp gauge should not fluctuate. That's the job of the T-stat--to regulate engine temp and keep it at a set point. If you're engine is getting hot at higher speeds, Check for missing baffles or cracked fan shroud
Q: Can I charge the battery (1.2Vx2) with the suction tube submerged in the water or do I have to remove the suction tube every time I have to charge the battery?
Since you don't mention the model of the pump, if you can connect the charger with a dry connection, you should not have to remove the pump/tube. If you have to take the battery out, you stand the risk of dropping it in the water putting it back, but obviously (I think) you don't have to remove the pump/tube.
Q: motor overheats but no leak. water just boils in resorvoir. is it hard to do it on my own?
Do your cooling fan(s) operate? One of the common problems with these cars, is for the cooling fan resistor to burn out, causing the low speed cooling fan not to work when commanded by the PCM to work. When this happens, the engine will overheat. Regarding the water pump itself, is relatively simple to access. However, the engine mount needs to be removed in order the gain clearance for the pump pulley to be removed, and then the pump itself. Check the green with black striped wire, and the green with red striped wire leading to the resistor first though. It is secured to the cooling fan shroud by a simple plastic lock clip. This part is far simpler to access than the pump. Hope this helps.
Q: My pump is almost 4 years old, work normal till recently I noticed sand mixed water flowing out of the delivery pipe. What should I do to make it normal again?
If it is pumping sand there is a problem of course. The pump is generally hung about 10 feet from the bottom of the well ( Ex: if the well is 120 feet the pump would hung be at 110 feet). In your case it may have been closer to the bottom and picking up the sand. There is a possibility that recently another well has been dug in the area and disturbed sediment has gotten in the water. It sounds like you aren't using this as drinking water or the sand would have been dropped in the pressure tank and you wouldn't see it. If it is a seasonal use well ( like for your garden or lawn in spring through fall) this debris might wash out after a few uses.
Q: Why can't vertical water pump use spring shock absorber?
Vertical pump power is small, the weight is limited, the pipeline vibration is limited, the general rubber shock absorber will be enough. It's no use. I'm sure you can't use the spring shock absorber.General construction, 7,5KW below is rubber shock absorber, above is spring shock absorber
Q: I am about to replace the timing belt in a 3.4L Toyota V6 at approximately 85,000 miles. The motor has had the Toyota red coolant, which lubricates a water pump very well. Should I, Or should I not replace a Toyota Water Pump also, at this mileage (85,000)? Could the original water pump last until 170,000? Thank you
i think different 2- do no longer bypass to the Toyota stealership. they're heavily overpriced. The timing belt service (-which could incorporate changing timing belt, crankseal, cam seal, waterpump andcontinual belts) could be extra useful like $600-750. The pan gasket- in case you fairly choose it comprehensive- would choose to correctly worth you (worst case challenge) $a hundred and fifty. All this would properly be comprehensive at any autonomous restoration shop for fantastically decrease than the stealership. learn around nonetheless because of the fact some independents can value you a lot as plenty because of the fact the stealership. additionally, there are shops available with super costs that do shoddy paintings- yet from my adventure, many of the plenty much less severe priced shops seem in elementary terms as reliable because of the fact the stealership.
Q: Is it ok to drive a car with a bad water pump?
Depends on how bad it is. I had a leaking one for about a month before I took it in. I just kept adding water. So it realy depends on what is bad, the bearings, or the impeller. If it overheats, thats a problem and will blow your engine.
Q: We had a leak in our car and took it to get checked out. They said it is the water pump. Also that it would be around $650 to replace. I know nothing about cars. Is this necessary? and does the cost sound about right? We are going on a 3 hour trip one way this weekend. Would it need to be done before then? thanks guys!
It certainly needs fixing before you go any where or you could wreck the entire engine!

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