Big Capacity Axial-Flow/Mixed-Flow Submersible Water Pump

Big Capacity Axial-Flow/Mixed-Flow Submersible Water Pump System 1

Big Capacity Axial-Flow/Mixed-Flow Submersible Water Pump

Ref Price:: $2,500.00 - 3,000.00 / set

Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Big Capacity Axial-Flow/Mixed-Flow Submersible Water Pump

1.Structure of Big Capacity Axial-Flow/Mixed-Flow Submersible Water PumpDescription

ZLB type axial flow pump is characterized by its large capacity, low head, etc. It can transport clean water whose temperature is less than 50º C, and also other liquids with physical and chemical properties similar to clean water.

2.Main Features of Vertical Submersible Axial Flow / Mixed Flow Water Pump

• Compact structure, good appearance, low construction

•Operation stably,high efficiency

•Convenient installation and maintenance

•Customized design is available, OEM and ODM are welcomed.

3.Vertical Submersible Axial Flow / Mixed Flow Water Pump Images

Big Capacity Axial-Flow/Mixed-Flow Submersible Water Pump

4.Vertical Submersible Axial Flow / Mixed Flow Water Pump Specification

Material	Cast iron, stainless steel
Pump diameter	350-1800mm
Capacity	400-80000m³/hr
Discharge	1-30m
Power	4-2000KW
Max water temperature	50ºC
Medium volume ratio	< 2%
Medium max density of	< 1.2×10³kg/m³
Medium	lightly contaminated water

5.FAQ

①What is the applications？

ZLB axial flow pump are used in flood dewatering application, water supplying and dewatering in urban area, storm-water drainage, agriculture and industry water supplying, water transfering etc.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products？

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test；We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance. Normally, We have 1 year warranty.

Q: I recently bought a 1992 Honda Accord. It has high mileage but the records kept on it were impecable up to about the last 3 years. I have read that you need to replace the timing belt/water pump every 80k miles. However; I do not know when it was changed last. The Only record in the book on the subject was back at 90k miles. That was the first time they had the timing belt changed.So How do I know its time to change it again? The car now has 199k miles. I do not want to do unnecessary work before time, however; I also know that the affects it will have on the engine is great if its not done within the right TIME! Is there anyway to know it needs to be done? What kind of signs will the car give? And how much is it going to cost me when it has to be done? Thanks!: can't tell you the price, don't know where you live and where you get yoiur work done, call around.. belts need to be replaced when they're worn. look for cracks, frays and listen for squealing. (sometimes the water pump will squeal when it's bad...) otherwise, take the car in to someone you trust and have them look at it..ESTIMATE only..

Q: i replace all the seals on the water pump reinstalled it and the same thing happened... it leaks out the bottom some where and run down the water pump and down the hot side radiator hose... any ideas?: With the labor, time, and seals you wasted trying to rebuild your old pump you could have put a factory rebuilt unit on. Sometimes you just gotta break down and spend the extra cash to do it right.

Q: I had a re-manufactured water pump installed and after 14 months I started smelling my radiator occasionally. Never suspected the pump since my original pump lasted 60,000 miles and was still fine when they replaced it feigning quot;it is customary to replace water pump with timing beltwhen in actuality my Hyundai Elantra just needs the pump checked every 60,000 miles. The re-manufactured water pump was diagnosed leaking for sure after 20 months. Anyway I believe the leaking pump which didn't get discovered for at least 4 to 6 months caused the early demise of my radiator. Does that make sense?Thanks,Mitzi: i strongly disagree. a leaky pump, loosing fluid, replaced by air via a recovery system, will create excess water jacket pressures. ergo, the radiator. even if it has air trapped in it. that excessive pressure, if the rad is marginal/old, can cause rad leaks. any seasoned mechanic out there has experienced a vehicle that had air in it, and be so hot as to charge the system. on some, you can actually here them go bang as water/coolant, flows into a part of the systems that has just air. that sends pressure shock waves through out the system. i've experience some so hot, they won't shut off. dieseling per say. ---------- EDIT, Michael sir. i'm an ex fighter jet hydraulic/pneumatic tech USAF. 40 yr auto mechanic. 5 yrs on Harley's (iron blocks). been dealing with the use of compressed fluids and gas for some time now. ex boeing employee on the 747 as well. i just don't ahve all that in my profile. mostly, i just let facts speak for themselves. weather or not an OP see's that is up to them. --------- pressure can built up faster than it can be bleed off in *some* cases. especially if it's a slow leak. those were generic statements. meaning, they are a possibility. not out of the realm of possibility, and would be far from the first time it ever happened, that a bad pump can cause other parts of the coolant system to malfunction. i've seen marginal rads, hoses, and even heater cores go as a result of over pressureazation of the water jacket. but i meant no disrespect here. i will delete my seasoned mechanic remark. simply stating i have seen/experienced, in the shop, over the years, many instances like what i stated. it's not impossible!!! i'll delete all this crap too if you delete your remark. how bout it? friends?

Q: How do I tell the difference between a long and a short water pump? I have a Chevy 350 V8, a crate motor the same size is going in very soon. How do I tell which one I have so that I can get the correct brackets, accessories, etc.?: Make it simple. Use the brackets and pump off your old engine. If you don't have one, go to a junk yard and buy all the front stuff with the pump off any 350 that looks clean to you.

Q: Is there a way to test and see if it is the water pump that causes the car heater to blow hot air one time and then, next time it blows cold air? We flushed the heater core and did other tests, so we do not believe it is the heater core. We left the radiator cap off and ran the car (ford thunderbird..'94) for 20 minutes and watched the antifreeze level come up, but doesn't go down, not circulating. We cannot afford to go to another garage. None of them seem to know what to do anywyas and we keep paying people to fix the heater and it is not fixed. We have put two new thremostats in car, too, figuring that maybe the first one may have been faulty, but should we try that again?: The radiator actually holds the water/coolant and the pump circulates the mixture throughout the engine. Upon returning to the radiator, the water is cooled from air passing through the fins of the radiator. The pumps job is to circulate the mixture in order for the hot water to cool hence, the engine is then cooled.

Q: My water pump keeps getting quite hot after each use. Everything seems to be working properly, except I think that the heat may cause it to burn out and that would cause a huge problem. My pump pulls water from a ground level water tank and pushes water up three flats to the part of my house used for living quarters. The pressure setting is set to cut out at 40psi and cut in at 25psi. What can I do myself before calling in expensive experts?: Probably needs new motor brushes.

Q: We had to have our well pump replaced yesterday, how long before the well settles down, and the water tastes like it used to?The company who replaced the pump told us when changing a pump it disturbs the well, and it would take time for everything to settle back into place. Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions.: It will take a few days, you need to get a filtration system installed too. No matter what you need good filters in your pump house.

Q: Water pump belongs to power equipment or mechanical equipment?: Ownership of mechanical power equipment in assets

Q: I have a water pump that works with 12V and 2 amps.I was thinking to get a potentiometer to be able to slow down the speed.Is this the best way to do it? What wattage should it have, so it doesn't burn out, and what should be the maximum resistance, to be able to stop the pump completely?And OKorder or product link would be great!Thanks!: A more efficient way would be to use a PWM controller which wastes less energy. Luckily these are available as modules now for motor speed control, so are plug and play with a variable control knob on the front. Just make sure you pick one suitable for your voltage range.

Q: Hello, I have a 1996 Cavalier and it's got a small coolant leak by the water pump so I figured I'd replace it. I called around a little bit and one quote was $250. I'm sord of handy and have a few hours on Saturday is it that hard? I heard it's just a few bolts? Thanks!!: The water pump on that vehicle is a ob-centric style that you rotate to create belt tension. This is a bit tricky and some people have broken the pump trying to tighten the belt so be careful. Look at the replacement pump carefully before you attempt to change it, this will give you clues as to how it works.

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