API 610 OH2 series Chemical Centrifugal Pump

API 610 OH2 series Chemical Centrifugal Pump System 1

API 610 OH2 series Chemical Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

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Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	woodencase
Delivery Detail:	45 days

API 610 OH2 chemical centrifugal pump

Outlined

SLZA series pumps are horizontal, axial suction, single stage, single suction centrifugal pumps. The design is in accordance with 10TH version of ANSI/API 610-2004 (Industrial centrifugal pumps for petroleum, heavy chemical and natural gas)and national standard GB/T3215-2007 (Industrial centrifugal pumps for petroleum, heavy chemical and natural gas), among these, SLZA is OH1 type; SLZAE/F is OH2 type. The pumps mainly for transferring liquid like clean fluid, low or high temperature flammable, explosive and corrosive liquid with solid. Mainly used for refineny, petro-chemical power plant, nomal chemical processing and marine industry.

Characteristics

Design is according to 10th version API610. High efficiency, low noise, good performance of anti-cavitation; Axial thrust is balanced by wear ring and balance holes, others by thrust bearing. Diameter of outlet is over than DN80, the pumps are designed in double volute structure to balance radial force, to lower noise and prolong bearing life span.
According to pressure, temperature and impeller type, this series of pumps can be divided into four types

Applications

Refinery plant, petro-chemical industry, coal-process industry and low temperature projects;
Chemical industry, paper making, pulp and sugar and such like normal process industries.
Water supply plant, Desalinator
Heat supply and AC system
Power plant
Environment engineering
Naval architecture and ocean engineering

Workconditions

Diameter 25~400mm
Capacity 2~2600m3/h
Head ~ 300m
Pressure SLZA ~2.5MPa; SLZAE ~5.0MPa SLZAF ~7.5MPa
Temperature SLZA ~177°C; SLZAE/F ~450°C

Q: changed the thermostat. it overheats but cools down a heat bar or two idling at stoplights. i filled up the coolant reservoir when i changed the thermostat, drove it about 2 miles(engine was already up to temp when i started) and it overheated. drove it two miles back going about 35-40 and it never went above normal but was still overheating. checked the reservoir and it was empty. stuffed a hose in it and plugged it up with a towel to force water in to see if it was leaking anywhere, no leaks. while running with the rpms up the top hose is easy to squeeze. makes me think water pump. but if i go over 45 it over heats makes me think clutch fan.: it's a simple little part, a pain to fix. Head gaskets

Q: ok so im wondering if there is a water pump out there i can buy that automatically turns on when i turn the tap on. i looking for something thats strong enough to pump enough water to more than one taps at a time i.e kitchen tap, bathroom etc.: Lots of house booster systems available. Just ask.

Q: I need a 12v water pump capable of at least 40psi. The only website that i found is one where you have to order a minimum of 100.: Look for sites that sell camping and RV supplies. It is common for a RV to have this kind of pump. You might look into sailboat supplies. An ocean going sailboat will have a pump much like a RV. Why do you need 40 PSI? 40 PSI will raise a column of water about 100 feet. Why do you need such high pressure? Most houses only have 15 to 20 PSI water pressure from a city main, half of what you say you need. A well pump can raise water several hundred feet to lift water to the surface and an additional 30 feet to provide 15 PSI in the water system of the house.

Q: I recently bought a 01 firebird trans am. was doing some maintenance on it. basic stuff, tune up, serpentine belt, break flush, and a coolant flush. I didn't notice any leakage in the car, and neither did any mechanics before. Last week when i did all these basic maintenance i went back to check up on one more thing. The mechanic raised my car up and asked when I'm replacing my water pump.Seeing that it was leaking...but the liquid wasn't green, more or less brown and it didn't have any particular smell, but its not coming from the oil pan. What I'm thinking is that maybe the hoses were completely tightened? All help would be appreciated! thank you!: G.M. uses Dexcool and it's a orange reddish color. If not flushed at manufacturer recommended intervals it can wreak havoc on the cooling system as well as having the ability to eat water pump gaskets and restrict cooling system passages. There's alot of class action law suits regarding the dreaded Dexcool. Usually however when the waterpump goes you'll hear a roaring type sound when the engine is running as well as there would be some play in the waterpump shaft contributing to the sound it might make. If it doesn't leak from the gasket then it will be froim the weep hole on the bottom of the pump that let's go over time. Have the cooling system pressure tested so you can pin point where it's leaking instead of guessing and wasting money throwing parts at it, Good luck and hope this helps.

Q: I went to have my car inspected for a leak at a friendly garage I know. They said I need a new water pump and in the mean time just keep the levels always checked and filled. Is it safe to drive for a while or can the pump totally fail and overheat the engine. As far as I know it's just leaking at this stage, the pulley and belts are fine.: Post basics: make, model, miles, yr, engine type. It's more likely to fail suddenly on a '95 Neon w/ 200k mi, than a 2010 Honda w/ 10k.

Q: It is a 110 shallow well pump for my water source to the house.: If it goes into a pressurized tank, could there be a leak somewhere? Or, the well is gong dry underground water flows during the dry season, there's not as much water. If so, the only solution would be to drill deeper.

Q: I have a 1 HP water pump that will pump water through a 1 and 1/2hose. What is the approx. GPM (just to have a reference) of a pump like this?: Assuming the pump will produce about 50 psi of pressure and has an effiicienty of about 80% then the pump would pump about 25 to 30 gpm. I am assuming this is a centrifugal pump and if that is the case there are several varialbles that enter into the estimate. Take a look at the link below and you will see this is not a simple question to answer with any accuracy.

Q: The garage told me my water pump was pumping quot;weaklyand needs to be replaced.: It is very seldom that a water pump will work weakly as you put it. In order forthe pump to work at less than capacity, the impellers would have to be worn out, and that is not likely. Usually the shaft bearingwill be the first thing to go in any water pump. See another mechanic, and don't ask him if the water pump is not pumping properly, just ask him to check the cooling system and see what he says.

Q: A pump is said to be capable of pumping water up to 100 meters, but I don't want to confirm that by actually putting up a very long pipe to that height. I know that pressure is related to height, so putting pressure at the output end of the pump would simulate different heights. Any suggestions how I can rig a contraption to do this? Thanks.: Install a pressure gauge at the pumps diischarge line and note that p=wh. H =p/w, H =p{(144)/62.4}/3.28 meters Pressure expected therefore in psi, is p={62.4/144}3.28 p=14.9 psi A pressure gauge of 0 to 50 psig range would be sufficient to indicate the expected pressure.

Q: I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat and the water pump seems to be leaking. The lower radiator hose has been replaced but it still leaks a fairly substantial amount. From what I can tell the pump is still doing its job but I'm losing coolant. Is there a way I can determine if i just need a new gasket or a new pump altogether without ripping the front end off? Any feedback is appreciated.: Before you go to replace anything, you must find and repair the source of the leak. See radiator pressure test video below:

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