WQ Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
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Product Description:
All details for WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump:
1. Product Introduction of WQ series Sewage Submersible Pump
WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for municipal work, industrial building, hotels, hospitals, civil air defense, mines, etc. It can be widely used in transfer waste water, rainwater and living water etc. which contains solid grains and various long fibers CNBM WQ series sewage submersible pump have many advantages, such as, hi-efficiency, circumvolution proof, blockage free, auto-coupling, hi-reliability and auto-control, etc.
2. Technical Performance of WQ series Sewage Submersible Pump
Discharge diameter: 50~600 mm
Capacity: 10~8000m³/h
Head: 5~60m
Power: 1.5~315kw
Diameter of pass solids: 20~145mm
3. Operation Condition of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump
1). Rated Voltage: 380V(660V), Frequency: 50Hz, 3-phase AC.
2). Temperature of medium under 40ºC.
3). PH value: 4~10.
4). Volume ratio of solid in medium below 2%.
5). Density of medium should be lower than 12000kg/m³.
4. Structure Characteristic of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump
WQ series submersible sewage pump is equipped with status indicator and protection device to ensure for pump safe and reliable operating.
1). The unique cable airproof is adopted, avoid leakage of cable.
2). Heat protector in stator assure of operating life of the motor.
3). The pump adopts outer recycling cooling design with motor power more than 18.5kw, which can keep the pump operating safely under the lowest water level.
4). A floating switch is installed at the bottom of motor chamber to protect the mechanical seal in the motor side.
5). The oil-water probe is installed at the up end of the oil chamber between pump and motor that can protect the mechanical seal in the side. If leakage occurs, the system will signalize and start protection.
6). Adopt perfect mechanical seal, the sealing material adopt tungsten carbide, silicon carbide and hard metal alloy, which can prevent the water from entering into the motor, and keep the operating reliable and safety.
7). The auxiliary impeller can balance the pressure outside of the mechanical seal, prevent the water entering into the oil chamber and prolong the life of the motor.
8). Unique impeller design, wide passage allow large solid and long fiber passing through freely, it features non-clog, convolve-proof and good passing ability.
9). The changeable wearing ring is installed between the impeller and the volute to keep the optimum operation conditions.
5. Impeller Design Characteristics of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump
For the feculence pass freely, it must be widen the flowing passage of impeller, for the big pump, can used for double-vane, or three-vane, for the small pump, it used for single(double) flowing passage, like a bent pipe has same section, it has a good passing characteristic, avoid stop, convolve caused by slowing current possibly. The especially flowing passage of impeller, cooperate with logical volute, made the paper, soft goods, garbage bag and other material in sewage can passing freely and the pump have no vibration in the course of running-in and load through the impeller balance between dynamic and static state.
6. FAQ
1). How long is your warranty?
Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.
2) If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?
You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.
3) Do you have pumps with grinders?
Yes, the WQ models.
4) How long is your warranty?
Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.
5) Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?
It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.
6) If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?
You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.
7) Do you have pumps with grinders?
Yes, the WQ models.
- Q: can anyone show me the steps on how to remove the water pump on a 1995 dodge intrepid 3.5l engine?
- On a '95 Intrepid equipped with the 3.5L 24-valve V6, the timing belt needs to be removed to access the water pump. The water pump itself only has three bolts securing it to the block. To access the timing belt, only requires removing the A/C compressor belt, and then the alternator/power steering pump belt, if I recall correctly. The trickiest part of the job will be re-installation. The timing belt tensioner is located on the bottom right/front corner of the engine, which requires being compressed and held with a paper clip. I wouldn't recommend this as a do-it-yourself type job if you do not know how to re-time the engine.
- Q: What are some good brands of aquarium water pumps? I have had bad experiances with Hydor Seltz (cheapest ones I could find, ugg, I know, you get what you pay for) pumps, failing very quickly, and sounding like plastic gears grinding around inside. What is the best kind to get?I need one that's around 150gph
- i have a topfin that works well for me.
- Q: My mechanic doesn't get back in town until next week, and I'm struggling without my car. I don't really have any other options mechanic wise and I'm not dropping $1000 like meineke wants.How easy is it to follow the Haynes repair manuals or any other repair manuals? I have a 1996 dodge avenger and I need to replace my water pump. I know it's a time consuming task, but is it especially hard to replace it?
- Try another repair shop. I had my water pump replaced for about $300 and that included the pump and labor and a belt ... Meineke is pricey. You can do better pricewise... Ask around... neighbors... people at work... My water pump was under something else that also had to be taken ou to get to it... not a job I'd want to tackle.
- Q: i started backing out of my garage and something sounded like it poped then lots of steam started coming out and water was on the ground on the right side of the car non on the left and the water pump needle in my car is all the way to the red can some one help me
- That is your temperature gauge that shot all the way up. Sounds like you blew a hose. Open the hood on your car and see if you can find where the coolant is leaking from. If you find a hose that is ruptured, replace it and refill/bleed the cooling system.
- Q: The at is a 2003 Toyota celica. And how much would it cost to get the water pump and timing belt replaced?
- If you're in Canada it will cost nearly 2x as much as if you are in the USA because Canadians get hosed. I'm guestimating you're looking at about $300 for pump and maybe $800 timing belt give or take several hun. Labor mostly.
- Q: We had to have our well pump replaced yesterday, how long before the well settles down, and the water tastes like it used to?The company who replaced the pump told us when changing a pump it disturbs the well, and it would take time for everything to settle back into place. Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions.
- Something seems a little fishy here besides the smell of the water. 1) Replacing the pump will do nothing to keep your well from being sucked dry unless the pump was sunk lower in the well. 2) A space is left between the bottom of the pump and the bottom of the well so that you have a place for sediment to settle, anywhere from 10' to 50'. 3) If you sink the pump lower you are placing it in the sediment area and will keep sucking up sediment until its level is drawn down. 4) Water literally flows thru the well and unless your well casing was damaged or the walls below it are collapsing it would be difficult to stir up anything. Apparently what they have done is to lower the pump pipe causing the pump to sit in the available sediment area. If you run the pump enough you will eventually suck the sediment down out of the bottom of the well. However, you will have less of a sump left and you will draw more sediment out of the well from now on. The only permanent solution to your problem was to drill the well deeper. I have recent firsthand experience with this both professionally (customers wells) and personally (my own well). The water will clear up but it may take some time and quite a bit of flow but from now on you will draw more particulates out of your well. Your cheapest and best solution is to invest in a filter to go inline after your pressure tank. They run about $70 plus installation and will need the filters changed between 1 and 6 months depending on how turbid your water is. Good Luck!
- Q: Please specify the reason, the more detailed the better, the head is the pump 1N fluid on the work done, when the flow rate increases, the shaft power increases, but it does not necessarily have to do with the head of the relationship
- First of all, the power of the pump is determined by the motor. When the power is certain, work must be done. According to w=mgh, the flow determines mg, the head is h, you think, if the flow rate is large, is the head smaller?. This is theoretical, and at the same time, you see, the water pump characteristic curve can also see that the flow rate increases, the corresponding smaller head.
- Q: i have little leak from water pump need to replace it in my mazda 6 2006 v6 3.0l. i have little over 120.000 miles on it. Any body know how much it may cost me?
- I don't know why, but the water pump costs between $125 and $160. That seems a little high. It probably retails for $186. Under normal conditions, you just get things out of the way, unbolt the old pump, clean it up and put the new one in. The problem is the other stuff that gets in the way. I'm just estimating the job will take 5-8 hours. Just multiply times the labor rate in your area. Don't forget the anti-freeze when you're done.
- Q: i am not sure whether the water pump is bad or how much water should come out of exhaust.
- It may not be your water pump at all. It could be a blown head gasket or a cracked block. Do you drive it very much? If you do and it doesn't totally overheat, it isn't your water pump. Water pumps usually tend to make a lot of noise when they go bad. Depending on the temperature of the air where you live, I would say don't worry too much about white clouds coming out of your exhaust. You do notice I said white? Condensation in an exhaust pipe is normal. Check the little stuff first. Check your thermostat and radiator cap first. Those are inexpensive. Have your radiator checked at the local Mom and Pop radiator shop where they will also check your hoses and engine oil, to see if it looks like mud. That will tell you if you have a cracked block. Total overheating can be a blown head gasket which is expensive because of labor. The parts cost is minimal, it is just a total b i t c h because you have to get the whole top of the motor off. Have your freeze plugs checked too and if they are plastic, have them replaced with brass ones. It is a very old vehicle and you are going to be looking at some money to fix things. I hope I helped, although you didn't tell me the name of the vehicle. That would help a bit more and if you know it is the water pump, go get a new one!!!!!!! And check your fan belts too while you're at it. Good luck! :) I'm just a dumb lady...lol!
- Q: Earlier today I was driving and my car shut off at a stop sign. I got it to start again and it shut off at the next stop sign, so after a few minutes I got it to start again and immediately pulled over as there was a small amount of smoke coming from under my hood. The temp gauge didn't say it was overheating, but I think it mightve been stuck, because that had to be what happened. After sitting there for a while it started and stayed that way for a while, I let the engine run. I drove it to the gas station and put some coolant directly in the radiator and the resevoir, and almost all of it leaked right out. I started to drive it home and had to pull over about 6 times to let it cool down because it kept overheating( temp gauge showed it this time). I think its the water pump that is leaking, but I know very little about cars, and was wondering if it could be anything else? Also, the heater wasn't working in the car today at all.
- If it's leaking from the water pump, you may as well do the timing belt, idle and tension pulleys too since they have to come off to do the pump. That pump is visible, you should be able to see the coolant dripping from under the belt drive pulley.
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WQ Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1 unit
- Supply Capability:
- 1000 unit/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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