• WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 1
  • WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 2
  • WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 3
WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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1)  Product outline
WQ series submersible sewage pump absorbs the advantages with the same products made abroad and at home, holds a comprehensive optimized design on its hydraulic model, mechanical structure,sealing, cooling, protection, control etc. points, features a good performance in discharging solids and in the prevention of fiber wrapping, high efficiency and energy-saving, strong reliability and, equipped with a specially developed electric control cabinet, not only the auto-control can be realized but also the motor can be made sure to work safely and reliably.Available with various types of installation to simplify the pump station and save the investment.
WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for the municipal works, buildings, industrial sewage and sewage treatment to discharge the sewage, waste water and rainwater containing solids and long fibers.
2)  Characteristic and advantage
1. Most of the impellers with the pump of an aperture below 400 come as a bi-runner impeller and few of them is a multi-blade centrifugal impeller. While most of the impellers with the pump of an aperture 400 and above come as a mixed flow impeller and few of them is a bi-runner impeller. The spacious pump casing runner lets the solids easily passing and the fibers uneasily wrapping so that it is most suitable for discharging sewage and dirt.
2. Two independent single end-face mechanical seals are in-series mounted, with the installation mode as the internal installation mode, and, compared with the external installation mode, the medium is more uneasy to leak and also its sealing friction pair are easier lubricated by the oil in the oil chamber. A special spiral slot or a small seam is used to resist the solid
grains to be deposited on the mechanical seal by the pump to make sure of its stable work. The unique mechanical seal layout mode and bearing combination makes the suspension arm of the shaft short, a heavy rigidity and a small jump, more benefit for reducing the leak from the mechanical seal and extending the life of it.
3. The motor of a protective grade IPX8 works in submerged mode and holds the best cooling effect. The grade F insulation makes the winding bearable to a higher temperature and, compared with common motors, more durable.
4. The perfect combination of the special electric control cabinet, the liquid level floating-ball switch and the protective components carries out the automatic monitor and alarm for
water leak and winding overheat, the protections at shortcircuit, overload, lack-of-phase and voltage-lost cut-off, the accurately auto-controls of start, stop, alternation and minimum
submerged depth of the pump, without need of special persons for looking-after, option at will is available between the selfcoupled reducing start and electronic soft start. All of these
makes sure of safe and reliable use of the pump without any worry.
5. Both motor and hydraulic parts are directly linked together, without need of turning the shaft for centering, easily disassembled and assembled to save the time, benefit for the
site maintenance, reducing the stopped time, saving the cost of repair; simple and compact structure leaves a small volume, only simple lifting equipment is needed, as a special lifting
handler is set on the pump; less land area and the pump can be placed directly in the sewage pond, without need of a special pump house, and the therefore the construction investment
can be saved by over 40.
6. Available with five installation modes for you to choose: auto-coupled, movable hard-pipe, movable soft-pipe, fixed wet type and fixed dry type installation modes.The auto-coupled installation means the connection between the pump and the water-out pipeline is made with the water outlet pipe seat of the auto-coupling, without use of the common fasteners, and, when to separate the pump from the water outlet pipe seat, just place it down along with the guide rod and then lift it, simply enough to get free from worry and trouble and save time.
The submersible sewage pump in the fixed dry type installation not only can replace the old vertical sewage pump but also does not fear of flood submersion, so there is no need of a separate flood-proof facility, benefit for lowering the cost of construction.


3) FAQ

1.  Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2.  Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3.  How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.


WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps




Q: water pump and thermostat were replaced 18 months ago motors done about 20 hrs since replacement have checked and there are no blockagers in water tube what could be the problem thanks
Sounds to me like your impeller is shot. Just because the water pump was replaced, chances are the impeller wasn't.
Q: i have a 1960 ford f100 and i was wondering if its better to have an electric water pump or mechanical. ive heard mechanical is worse because at low rpms it doesnt put as much water into the motor but i wasnt sure how true that was. What was is better so that my truck doesnt overheat? and how much better is one over the other if electric will just be a little better is it even worth using? also will i need to change anything on my motor to be able to put an electric water pump on it or will it just bolt on like the mechanical one does
Whoever told you that meeds to be slapped. Most elec water pumps do not flow enough coolant for daily street use, and they do not have along enough life span for daily use The mech. pumps are in the 50-60 gallon per min range on flow. Most elec units are in the 16 to 37 gallons per min range on flow. Yes they do have a few that moves 40-55 gpm but you will PAY for those. $536 for a 55 gpm flow elec pump for a ford.. It also draws 10 amps as while. I'm not a big ford man so I'm not sure about your alt, but on chevys of that age they only had a 37 amp unit... Drawing about 1/4 of the amps for just the water pump won't work so weill. You will need to update the charging system Most will only last about 5,000 hours awell... Some of the better ones says 10,000 hours.
Q: Having a hard time taking out the water pump on my 2004 Grand Am. it's been leaking anti-freeze for some time and finally had the time to fix it. Didn't know it will be so difficult to take out. So hopefully it won't be so difficult to put back up.
You did not say if you have a 4 cylinder or a 6 cylinder. The 6 is really easy so I will assume you have a 4.If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the exhaust manifold. Refer to Exhaust Manifold Removal in Engine Mechanical - 2.2L (L61). Drain the cooling system. Refer to Cooling System Draining and Filling . Raise and suitably support the vehicle. Refer to Lifting and Jacking the Vehicle in General Information. Remove the right front tire and wheel. Refer to Tire and Wheel Removal and Installation in Tires and Wheels. Remove the front fender liner. Refer to Front Fender Liner Replacement in Body Front End. Remove the access plate on the water pump sprocket from the timing cover. Install J 43651 to the water pump sprocket. Use the access plate bolts to secure J 43651 to the engine front cover. Remove the bolts that secure the sprocket to the water pump. Remove the bolt (1) that secures the engine block to the water pump. Remove the bolt (2) that secures the engine front cover to the water pump. Remove the feed pipe that joins the thermostat housing to the water pump. Remove the 2 bolts that secure the water pump to the engine block. Remove the water pump.
Q: Ok, so if i have an 80 watt solar panel and want to run a 12v dc fan and water pump ONLY when the sun is out or enough light to power them, will i need something like a voltage regulator? I would like to have the panels charge deep cycle 12 v batteries at the same time or when the fan and pump is not running. For instance, i have the panels out and my fan and pump on allowing them to run only on solar as well as charge the batteries. What diagram would i use? I would probably get a charge control for the batteries but more importantly what would i need to regulate the power from the panels? Inverter?
You may have to do some math. The 80 watt panel is only 80 watts at peak sun on a 75°F day at the equator. Chances are you will have something less than 80 watts to work with. But you can add up all the hours of partial sun to get an equivalant number of peak sun hours. An example would be a few hours in the morning and evening at partial power and a couple of hours at solar noon at nearly full power may give you 5 peak sun hours worth of light. 5 psh x 80 w/ps = 400 wh Your supply may have 400 watt hours worth of power per day. You state that the fan is 12v dc but what is the wattage? It could be a little 12v dc fan out of a computer or it could be a huge 12v dc fan out of an RV. What is the power requirements of the water pump? Is it a little 12v dc one for a foot tall decorative fountain or an industial 3 phase pump for a well? To charge the battery you need a voltage 120% higher than the battery voltage. 12v x120%=14.4 v To add up your loads convert them all the use to dc watt hours per day Here is an example to give you an idea of how to play with your numbers: Fan 12vdc x 1.5 A = 18 watts, use this for 5 hours your load would be 18w x 5hr = 90 watt hours Pump 120 vac x 2.5 amps = 300 watts (The AC will need to come from an inverter. The inverter has a certain amount of loss. How good it does the job of converting dc to ac is know as it's efficency. Lets use 90% to be safe) 300 watts / 0.90 = 333.4 watts, use this for 1/2 hour per day 333.4w x 0.5hr = 166.7 watt hours The 90 watt hours + the 167 watt hours = 257 watt hours per day. This would leave about 140 watt hours to put into the battery. Yes it would be best to use a charge controller to protect the battery from overcharging if the pump and fan are off, or from draining the battery too much if the fan or pump stays on.
Q: I need to do a new water level indicator interface for an experimental rig. I'm going to have the buttons that will start and stop the pump. And a column that will show the percentage of the water level in the experimental rig. Please help. I'm so clueless. And this is my final project. :(
They're equal (VB and VB6 variations of VB, surely VBA is super high-degree) in the phrases of where they rank within the excessive-stage/low-stage programming language rankings. Java is extra priceless without problems for the reason that it results in other matters (and could be very marketable on it's own), particularly c/c++/c# and net languages like php/javascript which have c-like cyntax. VB.Web and VB6 don't particularly result in so much (although they each support comprehend object-orientation). you can do the identical matters with visual normal that you can do with Java or C++. You are not able to do the identical things in VB as c++. For C# that you would be able to make a small case because it does aid c++-like code (hazardous keyword) but absolutely not VB.Internet (or VB6 most likely). Just are trying doing a C# an identical of stackalloc in VB.
Q: I need instructions on taking the old one out and replacing it with a new one. Photos will be helpful
The post above me is right on just take your time and make the bolts tight but don't over do it . Flush out before install of new pump. good luck
Q: how to replace water pump in a 96 F150?
1. drain coolant 2. remove engine fan and clutch assembly 3. remove radiator hose connection at water pump 4. remove water pump 5. clean water pump to engine mating surfaces 6. install water pump with water pump gasket 7. rest of installationin reverse order of removal
Q: I have a 1992 acura legend coupe V6 3.2 liter engine. My water pump is leaking. How do I tell if I need the 1 tube or 2 tube pump because thats how the water pumps come. Its either the one tube or two tube but I dont know which one I need for my car. also, how much is the cost to install the water pump. Thank You,Josh
go to kargen or autozone and it will tell you the cost. Normally labor is about $50-$100 but if you almost time to do the timing belt, you can change it the same time since all the belts are all right there and this might save you money in the future. If you are handy, you can get a manual and change it yourself, it is not that difficult. or go to search in youtube and sometime, some one video the process for you. Good luck
Q: do I need to replace it again ? How hard is it to change the water pump? Any Idea where on the internet I can download a free maintenance manual or replacement instructions ?
Since okorder , click on Repair Info on the left, select Vehicle Repair Guides, and then input your car model. All the instructions you need are in there.
Q: the water pump from the factory has an extra hole coming out the side its the smaller one on the end of this pic.
i've always gone by the 30 second rule. even a NEW or emptied for winter motor that must completely fill, 30 seconds should be long enough. if it hasnt begun pumping by that point, i turn it off and give it some time to cool while i double check everything. then i might give it a full 45 seconds. but it wont overheat in less then a couple of minutes. and if its not pumping with the hose hooked up, the impeller is probably bad already anyways. however, if you do even get it near warm, its already hotter then you think it is where the heat is produced, the cylinders, and where you have tight clearances on fast moving parts, the cylinders and pistons. and if it gets too hot, major damage is quickly done. BTW, service period on a merc impeller is always 100 hours or 3 years. or NOW, before the motor is damaged, if unsure of when it was last done. when the impeller is less then $50 (and about an hour labor, if paying for it) and a new motor is THOUSANDS, you cant replace it too often. dennis, you have NO clue. i suggest getting one before you ruin the motor in your own boat. and in the meantime, keep your bad advice to yourself.

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