• WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 1
  • WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 2
  • WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps System 3
WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
500 unit/month

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1)  Product outline
WQ series submersible sewage pump absorbs the advantages with the same products made abroad and at home, holds a comprehensive optimized design on its hydraulic model, mechanical structure,sealing, cooling, protection, control etc. points, features a good performance in discharging solids and in the prevention of fiber wrapping, high efficiency and energy-saving, strong reliability and, equipped with a specially developed electric control cabinet, not only the auto-control can be realized but also the motor can be made sure to work safely and reliably.Available with various types of installation to simplify the pump station and save the investment.
WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for the municipal works, buildings, industrial sewage and sewage treatment to discharge the sewage, waste water and rainwater containing solids and long fibers.
2)  Characteristic and advantage
1. Most of the impellers with the pump of an aperture below 400 come as a bi-runner impeller and few of them is a multi-blade centrifugal impeller. While most of the impellers with the pump of an aperture 400 and above come as a mixed flow impeller and few of them is a bi-runner impeller. The spacious pump casing runner lets the solids easily passing and the fibers uneasily wrapping so that it is most suitable for discharging sewage and dirt.
2. Two independent single end-face mechanical seals are in-series mounted, with the installation mode as the internal installation mode, and, compared with the external installation mode, the medium is more uneasy to leak and also its sealing friction pair are easier lubricated by the oil in the oil chamber. A special spiral slot or a small seam is used to resist the solid
grains to be deposited on the mechanical seal by the pump to make sure of its stable work. The unique mechanical seal layout mode and bearing combination makes the suspension arm of the shaft short, a heavy rigidity and a small jump, more benefit for reducing the leak from the mechanical seal and extending the life of it.
3. The motor of a protective grade IPX8 works in submerged mode and holds the best cooling effect. The grade F insulation makes the winding bearable to a higher temperature and, compared with common motors, more durable.
4. The perfect combination of the special electric control cabinet, the liquid level floating-ball switch and the protective components carries out the automatic monitor and alarm for
water leak and winding overheat, the protections at shortcircuit, overload, lack-of-phase and voltage-lost cut-off, the accurately auto-controls of start, stop, alternation and minimum
submerged depth of the pump, without need of special persons for looking-after, option at will is available between the selfcoupled reducing start and electronic soft start. All of these
makes sure of safe and reliable use of the pump without any worry.
5. Both motor and hydraulic parts are directly linked together, without need of turning the shaft for centering, easily disassembled and assembled to save the time, benefit for the
site maintenance, reducing the stopped time, saving the cost of repair; simple and compact structure leaves a small volume, only simple lifting equipment is needed, as a special lifting
handler is set on the pump; less land area and the pump can be placed directly in the sewage pond, without need of a special pump house, and the therefore the construction investment
can be saved by over 40.
6. Available with five installation modes for you to choose: auto-coupled, movable hard-pipe, movable soft-pipe, fixed wet type and fixed dry type installation modes.The auto-coupled installation means the connection between the pump and the water-out pipeline is made with the water outlet pipe seat of the auto-coupling, without use of the common fasteners, and, when to separate the pump from the water outlet pipe seat, just place it down along with the guide rod and then lift it, simply enough to get free from worry and trouble and save time.
The submersible sewage pump in the fixed dry type installation not only can replace the old vertical sewage pump but also does not fear of flood submersion, so there is no need of a separate flood-proof facility, benefit for lowering the cost of construction.


3) FAQ

1.  Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2.  Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3.  How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.


WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps

WQ Sewage Submersible Water Centrifugal Pumps




Q: can anyone show me the steps on how to remove the water pump on a 1995 dodge intrepid 3.5l engine?
i dont know how much different the 3.3l is from the 3.5l, but heres a how to on the 3.3l dodgeintrepid/forums/showthre...
Q: I noticed my car was quot;in the redand was about to overheat as i was driving, so at first I thought maybe i needed more coolant. I turned off my car and heard a fan noise under my engine for like a minute then it stopped. I checked the radiator and it was empty (no coolant) so i put water in there to get to the store to buy more coolant. By the time i bought some the water was already gone (this was only like 10 min) so I put the coolant in drove home again i noticed i was overheating, i checked again and all the coolant had leaked out too..it was all gone, that QUICK! So i asked a couple of men about it, and they say it sounds like it could be a hose or either a water pump. I don't know which it is, i can't drive it anywhere b/c it keeps overheating and i don't want to get it towed for $75 just to get a new hose. So is there a way i could tell what the problem is? Thanks!
don,t start it but fill it up and take each hose and twist it some. if it,s a hose then it will start to leak. water pumps usually leak a lot when it,s running.
Q: Ok, here's my problem. My parents bought this house a few years ago. No problems at first, but then during Hurricane Katrina, the basement started to flood from the heavy rains. Now whenever it rains, it floods. We have a half bath down there and the water would drain out in the shower drain. Now no water drains out, and we've already check the drain for clogs. It's clear. We currently have to bucket the water out.I'm looking for a good water pump to get them before I move out. I'm not sure if it has a sump pit or anything.We don't particularly care if we have to pump it out through a window or anything, as we have a pasture next to us. I just need something that could pump out the water when it rains. Preferably something not too expensive but that will still get the job done.Note: This is in Louisiana; lord knows what compelled the people who built this house to build a basement.Any suggestions/advice are much appreciated.
The fact that the water comes only from the drain, (if I understood correctly) and it only began to happen after Katrina caught my attention. You state that the basement was dry before am I correct? And that there is no leaks on the walls and floor. Just the drain. So here's what I think might be happening and I suggest you look into. 1- Your waste water/sewage line might be linked to the city's rainwater drainage system. They used to do that a while ago and if your house is old enough that might be the case. New building codes now strictly forbid it because in case of heavy rain, the rainwater system overflow and cause basements to flood with wastewater, which is a health hazard. If that is the case you will want to disconnect that drain from the discharge line and install a sewage pump to deal specifically with wastewater. 2- The waste water discharge line is clogged or collapsed at some point during when Katrina hit. Again you will want to install a sewage pump. It is not a good idea to rely on gravity drains to get rid of water in below grade structures anyway. That said, considering that you live in a problem region, I'd suggest you also install a good sump pump system, with battery operated backup pump like the SuperSump, separated from the sewage pump, to deal with ground water and heavy rains. In Louisiana I would even consider a TripleSafe system which has 2 powerful backup sump pumps, one of which is battery operated, an automatic switch system and an alarm to let you know when the backup pumps are on the job.
Q: We're doing some droplet impact experiments and are creating the flow of water to our droplet generators by elevating our source of water. Unfortunately as the water depletes the pressure changes. We need to siphon off the water from our lower basin where the water collects and pump it back up to the source (around 6-8 feet up). What kind of pump do I need for this?
I would think a pump of the type used for garden fountains and ponds would work. They some in sizes many of which are rated in gallons per hour rather that gpm. You can get the any many home improvement centers as well as on line.
Q: PUMP RUNS BUT DONT PUMP WATER
you need to prime it suck on the output tube
Q: Hello everyone, is the general household deep well pump capacitor how to pick up ah, 220V voltage, a capacitor, capacitor, there are 2 lines, but the motor is 3 lines, how can I put these 7 lines together?.Please don't copy professional theories from others.
220V has two lines (lines 1, lines 2)There are two lines of capacitance (line 3, line 4)There are three lines on the motor (line 5, line 6, line 7)3 11 52 64 7That's plain enough. To change the turn, change any two of the 5, 6, 7, three lines
Q: I have a submersible pump outdoors for the water to my house. Indoors is a holding tank and pressure gauge. It seems the pressure gauge keeps slowly declining down to 20. Then when the toilet is flushed, the gauge kicks on and climbs to 50. Then left alone for a while the gauge again declines to 20. Do I have a leak somewhere? If so , where? Does the ballast inside the holding tank need to be pressurized? If so, how where? I seem to remember years ago, my husband did something with a bicycle tire air pump. Makes sense? Thanks
If it's going down while nobody is using water then the check valve or foot valve is leaking through when the pump is off. It should pump it to a determined PSI then shut off. I suppose there could be a leak somewhere in the line, but I suspect the check valve. It's pretty common. ....the ballast does need to be pressurized but I doubt that's your problem. If that was bad you would have severe water hammer.
Q: Hi I really need a USB water pump (small). I have found one in China but they need payment in a different currency so its proving difficult. I would much prefer a US/EUROPE seller. Cheers.PSgt; If I had to pay to get the power supply changed from wire to USB then I could if anyone knows who could do this.
The USB output has a 5V power supply. USB2 delivers up to 500mA and later versions may be 900mA. USB hubs start off with less than this (100mA) but change as they are initialised. Some dedicated USB charging ports supply up to 1.8A. There are some USB power cables that take the output from 2 ports in a sort of Y harness (first link for example). The result of all this is that only a very small pump would run from most USB ports. I did find 2 rated at 5W and 8W but the voltage was not shown. I suspect they were mains operation, meant for large water bottles. If they were 5V they would use 1A and 1.6A respectively, so only run from special USB charge points or double cables, and only in some cases anyway. I assume you want to run from a Laptop/Notebook battery for convenience. The point is that even if the USB port can supply the correct voltage and current the battery would be emptied very quickly. It is probably cheaper to get a suitable pump, then power it from a separate and more suitable rechargeable battery or mains adaptor (wall wart), whatever it takes, taking into account how long it should run with a single charge. This is about the battery voltage and the capacity in ampere hours - the number of hours it can supply a given current. D size rechargeable (Ni-MH) would run a 6V x 6W motor using 1A for about 6 hours. C size cells are half that, and AA cells about half again. It takes 4 cells to get 5V. Get them as a pack though or at least with a battery holder, as they cannot be soldered. Then you need a proper charger. Recent laptop/notebook batteries are lithium ion types, 10.8V and 4.8Ah, so deliver 1A @10.8V for 4h more or less. Other types worth considering are for cordless drills.
Q: 2 pumps in parallel, lift the same, the pump head is not stacked; 2 pumps in series, the same flow, pump head is not superimposed?.
2 pumps parallel, lift the same, pump head is not stacked?;Answer: the head can not be superimposed, that is, a lift and a pump, but the pumping speed (flow) is two times a taiwan.2 pumps in series, the same flow, pump head is not stacked?.Answer: the head can be superimposed, that is, the pump head is two times as much as a pump, but the pump speed is the same as that of a pump.
Q: Hi. This car is 66 chevy but the motor is a 1984 chevy 350 4bolt main stroked to 383. I think its an '84, might be an '85. I need to replace fan clutch and water pump.... the fan clutch is bad but manufacturer of the replacement parts says you must do water pump and fan clutch together. Is the pump a 66 chevy pump or a 350 small block pump? What about the fan clutch? Ok, and please help with motor mounts. do I use mounts specific for 66 model or specific to the motor?
It's a Gen 1 small block V8. There are only two types of small block water pumps, long shaft and short shaft. Short shaft pumps were used on pre 1968 motors. The long pump measures 7 1/4 from the mounting surface to the outside of the clutch mounting flange, the short pump measures 5 5/8. The mounts should be for a small block in the same body type you are using it in. Back in the 50's there was a different mounting system that bolted to the front of the block, but everything since then is compatible. By the way, if the motor is in a 1966 body with the standard radiator, use the short water pump, iron or aluminum makes no difference except in cost.

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