• WQ Series Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps System 1
  • WQ Series Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps System 2
  • WQ Series Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps System 3
WQ Series Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps

WQ Series Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
1000 unit/month

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Product Description:

All details for WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump:

 

1. Product Introduction of WQ series Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for municipal work, industrial building, hotels, hospitals, civil air defense, mines, etc. It can be widely used in transfer waste water, rainwater and living water etc. which contains solid grains and various long fibers CNBM WQ series sewage submersible pump have many advantages, such as, hi-efficiency, circumvolution proof, blockage free, auto-coupling, hi-reliability and auto-control, etc.

 

2. Technical Performance of WQ series Sewage Submersible Pump

Discharge diameter: 50~600 mm

Capacity: 10~8000m³/h

Head: 5~60m

Power: 1.5~315kw

Diameter of pass solids: 20~145mm

 

3. Operation Condition of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump 

1). Rated Voltage: 380V(660V), Frequency: 50Hz, 3-phase AC.

2). Temperature of medium under 40ºC.

3). PH value: 4~10.

4). Volume ratio of solid in medium below 2%.

5). Density of medium should be lower than 12000kg/m³.

 

4. Structure Characteristic of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

WQ series submersible sewage pump is equipped with status indicator and protection device to ensure for pump safe and reliable operating.

1). The unique cable airproof is adopted, avoid leakage of cable.

2).  Heat protector in stator assure of operating life of the motor.

3).  The pump adopts outer recycling cooling design with motor power more than 18.5kw, which can keep the pump operating safely under the lowest water level.

4).  A floating switch is installed at the bottom of motor chamber to protect the mechanical seal in the motor side.

5).  The oil-water probe is installed at the up end of the oil chamber between pump and motor that can protect the mechanical seal in the side. If leakage occurs, the system will signalize and start protection.

6).  Adopt perfect mechanical seal, the sealing material adopt tungsten carbide, silicon carbide and hard metal alloy, which can prevent the water from entering into the motor, and keep the operating reliable and safety.

7).  The auxiliary impeller can balance the pressure outside of the mechanical seal, prevent the water entering into the oil chamber and prolong the life of the motor.

8).  Unique impeller design, wide passage allow large solid and long fiber passing through freely, it features non-clog, convolve-proof and good passing ability.

9).  The changeable wearing ring is installed between the impeller and the volute to keep the optimum operation conditions.

 

5. Impeller Design Characteristics of WQ Series Sewage Submersible Pump

For the feculence pass freely, it must be widen the flowing passage of impeller, for the big pump, can used for double-vane, or three-vane, for the small pump, it used for single(double) flowing passage, like a bent pipe has same section, it has a good passing characteristic, avoid stop, convolve caused by slowing current possibly. The especially flowing passage of impeller, cooperate with logical volute, made the paper, soft goods, garbage bag and other material in sewage can passing freely and the pump have no vibration in the course of running-in and load through the impeller balance between dynamic and static state.

 

6. FAQ

1). Can I get trained on CNBM products?

Yes, we provide training courses in our factory (products, general and specific pump technology, hydraulics, and practical applications). Please consult your sales manager or get in touch with our headquarters for more information.

2). Are your pumps cheaper than those of your competitors?

CNBM aims to give its customers the highest standards of quality and service and delivery times, all at a reasonable price.

3). How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

4) If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.

5) Do you have pumps with grinders?

Yes, the WQ models.

6) How long is your warranty?

Unless otherwise expressly authorized in writing, by specifying a longer period or different conditions, CNBM states that, for a period of twelve (12) months from delivery date, all Products supplied are free from defects in materials and workmanship, and conform to the applicable specifications. Either the delivery documentation or the invoice must be provided to prove delivery date. In absence of such documents, the production date appearing on the product label may suffice.

WQ Series Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps

WQ Series Vertical Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pumps


Q: What is the function of boiler feed pump, condensate pump, vacuum pump and low drain pump in operation?
The feed pump is a pump for supplying water to the boiler and maintaining the water level of the boiler. The condensate pump provides water to the deaerator after condensing the turbine and provides water for some condensate users. Vacuum pump is to maintain the vacuum of the pump, the pump is to lower the drain in a timely manner to the next level of low pump
Q: im attaching a motor from another filter onto my homemade filter. but i dont want to have to run a cord all the way from the pond to a powerplug. does anyone know of another way to such water into a filter without using electricity? some kind of siphon?
1. I had an electrician put a buried cable in the ground coming up to a weatherproof post with outlets and an on-off switch. It was not as expensive as I thought it would be. 2. You can put the water pump and filters by the house or even inside and run buried water pipes out to the pond, or just put the pump inside and have the filter by the pond which would run by water pressure or gravity. 3. A windmill or solar panel. A siphon uses potential energy stored in the water to work. Once the water has dropped through the siphon, there is no more energy to draw from and the siphon stops. A windmill or solar panel could provide the power to lift the water back up and make the process continuous, or at least while it's windy or sunny. However when pricing these two options even though they would be very cool if you have the large yard to accommodate them, they turn out to cost much more than either 1. or 2. and have much higher maintenance costs associated with them. 4. If it's a very small pond, you can get a solar powered filter/fountain that looks like a floating plastic lily pad. My son had one of these, but it only worked on the sunniest of days, and lasted one summer before wearing out. If you add a large block of filter foam over the intake it may last a little longer. Rinse it out two or three times a week.
Q: Not sure of the year model but think it is a 1991 to 1995 Jayco 2500FS bumper pull trailer. I bought it to put on a deer lease. One of the previous owners had taken out the water tank which I plan on replacing. I can't find the water pump to see if I need to replace it as well. Also, if you know about how the pump knows when to kick on i.e. pressure switch, push button or what. I know I could take it to have repairs done but enjoy the diy thing. I am in the process of finding out the exact year model as well. Thanks!
having had many travel trailers the water pump is usually in a cabinet or under a bed or couch with a lot of plastic water lines near where you screw the water hose into the side of the trailer. and they are usually a preset psi from the factory so that is usually nothing to have to worry about and most have an on off switch located in the traier by the kitchen sink.And if the hot water heater is no good look into a tankless water heater it will save you money in the long run but initially you have to have a vent installed up through the roof away from a roof air vent. Another suggestion everytime you move a travel trailer they get the crap pounded out of them and someone needs to go up on the roof with a ladder and/or a plank that goes across the width so there is no weight standing on a roof to make dents or pop seams. Use some plastic stuff like plasticote available at wal mart after you move the trailer and set it up go up and make sure to double coat any of the seams that need it. I crank the heat up inside the trailer and do a double coat the heat rising will put a skin on the plasticote in a few hours instead of 12 or more. and the double coat gets any cracks missed the first time around. After that check it once a year if the trailer stays there.
Q: I would like to have a water pump/valve that I can tie into my house water and will run on a timer. Kind of like a sprinkler system but not so expensive an on a much smaller scale. Basically what I am trying to do is set up an auto-watering (from the tap) system for my animals when I am away for a day or two. I know this is more in the lines of a pet category but than again - not really.
Your okorder /... You can get a hose connection adapter for your tap. You could make one yourself with a toilet float valve. Setting up a pump on a timer may cause you a flood or water damage. It's not a good idea to leave such a system unattended for a few days. You might be better off my leaving several water bowls out if it's only a few days. Good luck!
Q: and how do I get it to work 24 hours a day?and on the pump there is written: 2 A, and on another part: 220-240 Vdoes that mean its wattage is 440-480Watt?
Hey Don ..did you mean consecutive hours..if so. Here is how to do it..If there is fluid to be pumped there is sometimes a controller that will ask the pump to stop when it reaches low level . And again ON when it senses high level. Find this device, if one exists and either defeat it mechanically or wire around it electrically.Either is pretty simple. NOW that i have told you how to get it to run all the time. I though I might mention a timer..A timer, in series with your pump, will cut it off and give the liquid level a chance to rise as well. Timers can be defeated the same as all other protective devices,, My question is Are you sure this is what you want to do ? The plug on the end of the cord ,it must be a small pump if only 2 amps, should be your only control .If it has an auto off feature it's there to save your pump from burning the barn down ,so to speak, Why not take another look at your application. if you do have an endless fluid supply ,like a closed loop trickling fountain, remember those evaporate if make up water is not added. Sometimes though you need a pump to run 24-7 in which case just fool the controller..Of course the human is the true controller... :) Well I have armed you with enough info to get by on this please do so safely. From the E...
Q: water pump on a Suzuki forenzakia optima
You better shop around on that one but you're looking at a few hundred dollars minimum. The newer the car, the more you're going to pay to get it fixed.
Q: I have a Stamas boat that I am in the middle of restoring. It has 2 chevy 350's, with borg warner (sp) tranny's, and v-drives. Anyway, it has standard water pumps to cool the engines, and it had 2 Sherwood pumps to circulate the water to cool the tranny's, and v-drives. First, I am using the boat in Lake Michigan only, the water is very cool year round since it is such a big body of fresh water. I was wondering if there was any recommendation on possibly using 2 electric pumps to circulate the water? If so, what would a good unit be? Second, the transmission coolers were brass, with a honey comb in the center for the ATS fluid to run through, and the water would run on the outside to cool the fluid. Is this a more effective way to cool the fluid than with those expensive brass fitting? Just checking before I spend a few hundred on them to see if a better way to cool my engine and tranny's, in all honestly though, I am more worried about effectiveness than cost.
You would be playing with fire to use electric pumps to cool the transmissions and v drives. I doubt they would put out the volume of cooling water needed to cool them and have enough extra volume just in case. Besides, the raw water pumps also would cool the engines and exhaust systems if they are raw water cooled or they would cool the anti freeze and exhaust and transmissions with heat exchangers and oil coolers. Those transmission coolers should be plumbed into the raw water system using the same water that flows through the engines. Not to mention the reliability of the electric pumps vs engine driven pumps.
Q: I recently got the water pump replaced on a 99 Oldsmobile Intrigue GL (3.5L V6), and ever since the temperature gage seems to be running higher...between half way and the 3rd line, where before it was replaced it never got above the second line. It is doing this when I slow down and stop at lights. Once I get going the temperature does drop. Is this normal, or did they do something wrong?
It means the fan isn't working. No air is going through the radiator at low speeds.
Q: Pump performance parameters have three sets of data, how to understand the flow, lift, flow speed
Mainly expressed the ability of the pump, mainly as a basis for selecting the pump users.Lift represents the performance of the pump to boost water pressure. Such as the pump head H=38 meters, that the pump outlet pressure normal to 0.38MPa.The flow rate represents the water supply capacity of the pump. Such as 100 m3/h. The general flow pump design, and the corresponding flow, little significance.
Q: I have a old house,1920's I think it was built. My water pump kicks on all the time! The tolite upstairs is not that old but the pipes are.The tolite runs for a min. and then stops for 5 mins. When I am running a bath..the second I turn off the water in the tub,the tolite starts to run! Same with the tolite downstairs,that one is only a few years old and the pipes are the same as it is an addition to the house. When I am up late at night in my office I hear the water pump kicking on in the basement ever 10 mins or so! My electric bill is huge! How can I fix this problem? What is causing it? I have not noticed any water leaks anywhere. We turned up the pressure on the pump. That helped a little. Thank god we have our own water well. Anyone have any Idea's?
need more info but do you have a backflow preventer installed on the pipes? this might cause it or it may be bad if you do have one

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