• Well Pump 4SSM System 1
Well Pump 4SSM

Well Pump 4SSM

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Well Dia.:100mm(4")
Speed:2850rpm
oltage(50Hz):220V-380V~
Capacity(m
3/h):5~10
Outlet:G2"
Max.Dia.(mm):95

-Typical applications
Water supply system
Booster
Garden and farm irrigation
Lowering underground water level
Various lndustrial appllcations

-Working conditions
Dilute and cleam non-corosive liquid which dose not contain solid rains or fibers.
The pump should be running under the performance range of the thick curves to
prevent the motor from overheating due to lower capacity or overioading due to
higher capacity.

-Pump/Motor
Qmax:14.5(m3/h)
Adopted the NEMA standard
Insulation class:B
Protection grade:IP 68
Maximum diameter:?95mm
Highest temperature of liquid:35℃

Type

Motor
power
Capacity and headDimensions
single phase
220-240V~
Hz50
Three phase
380-415V~
Hz50
m3/h05083133167183LengthWeight
L/min03581011mmkg
4SSM8 05-0.750.751Head
(m)
30262419141075420
4SSM8 07-1.14SS8 07-1.11.11.542363327201483822
4SSM8 10-1.54SS8 10-1.51.52 60524738282198925
4SSM8 14-2.24SS8 14-2.22.23 847266544029117731
4SS8 18-334 1089385695137137037
4SS8 21-3.73.75 126108100805943149642

Q: I'm planning to install a water pump using electric generator from a very long distance going up from a cliff
if it is powerful enough to power the pump then yes.
Q: How do I know the pump pressure?
That is, the rated pressure minus the pipe loss, and then less inlet pressure (generally suction pump inlet pressure is negligible), that is the working pressure.The head of a centrifugal pump is also called the pressure head of a pump. It is the energy gained by the pump of the unit weight and the fluid. Pump head size depends on the structure of the pump (such as the diameter of the impeller, the bending of the leaves and so on, speed. At present, the pressure head of the pump can not be calculated accurately in theory, usually measured by experimental method.
Q: water flow at faucet only when pump is running, but flow is slow
boogies right. you could have debris in ur lines, an inadequate pump, or something much worse take it to a service center if its new it should b covered under warranty
Q: I have an 02 Gran Prix and my water pump is going out. With the recession I don't have the money to take it in. So can anyone give step by step instructions to help me fix it. I am a do it yourself kinda of guy so I am mechanically inclined. What tools will I'll need? is there a timing chain? How long will you think it will take me? Any thing i should pay attention to? How can I measure the pounds of torque that I put on the bolts or what tool will I'll need? Please help!!!
WP replacement mini-writeup 1. Empy Coolant from Radiator drain 2. Remove SC and Acc. belts 3. Remove the coolant resevoir tank 3. Remove the Idler pulley with a 15mm 4. Remove the 4 WP pulley bolts with a 8mm 5. Remove the 2 Power Steering Pump bolts with a 13mm(bolts are at 12:00 and 6:00 accessable through the PS pulley holes) 6. Push PS pump 1 inch to the side 7. Remove all 8 WP bolts with a 13mm and a 10mm(3 are 13mm/5 are 10mm) 8. Collect extra coolant until flow stops(a few cups) 9. Apply RTV to both sides of the gasket and WP bolts 10. WP bolts should be torqued to 11lbs+80*/Idler pulley bolt at 36lbs/WP pulley bolts at ~9lbs 11. Reinstall everything and fill the coolant back up 12.
Q: Hi I really need a USB water pump (small). I have found one in China but they need payment in a different currency so its proving difficult. I would much prefer a US/EUROPE seller. Cheers.PSgt; If I had to pay to get the power supply changed from wire to USB then I could if anyone knows who could do this.
The USB output has a 5V power supply. USB2 delivers up to 500mA and later versions may be 900mA. USB hubs start off with less than this (100mA) but change as they are initialised. Some dedicated USB charging ports supply up to 1.8A. There are some USB power cables that take the output from 2 ports in a sort of Y harness (first link for example). The result of all this is that only a very small pump would run from most USB ports. I did find 2 rated at 5W and 8W but the voltage was not shown. I suspect they were mains operation, meant for large water bottles. If they were 5V they would use 1A and 1.6A respectively, so only run from special USB charge points or double cables, and only in some cases anyway. I assume you want to run from a Laptop/Notebook battery for convenience. The point is that even if the USB port can supply the correct voltage and current the battery would be emptied very quickly. It is probably cheaper to get a suitable pump, then power it from a separate and more suitable rechargeable battery or mains adaptor (wall wart), whatever it takes, taking into account how long it should run with a single charge. This is about the battery voltage and the capacity in ampere hours - the number of hours it can supply a given current. D size rechargeable (Ni-MH) would run a 6V x 6W motor using 1A for about 6 hours. C size cells are half that, and AA cells about half again. It takes 4 cells to get 5V. Get them as a pack though or at least with a battery holder, as they cannot be soldered. Then you need a proper charger. Recent laptop/notebook batteries are lithium ion types, 10.8V and 4.8Ah, so deliver 1A @10.8V for 4h more or less. Other types worth considering are for cordless drills.
Q: I tried using my water line with a pressure tank and pressure switch but without a pressure tank I observed that when he pressure reaches 30 psi the motor pump switches off automatically and when we open the faucets to use water the pressure switch turns on again the motor pump.
All that will do is cause your pump to burn out sooner. It will run WAY more often without a tank. The tank allows for a 'range' in your pressure, in other words, the pump will fill the tank to 30 psi, but will not kick on again until the tank gets below a certain level, say 20 psi, at which point it will pump it back to 30 and cut off again. Without a tank, the pump will run whenever you draw water.
Q: My 2000 Pontiac Sunfire has been overheating and I recently changed the thermostat thinking that was the problem. The new thermostat didn't help and the engine is still over heating. I am starting to think it might be the water pump. How can I tell for sure? When I changed the thermostat and refilled the coolant tank I left the cap off and started the car to work out the air. I was told I should see bubbles in the tank but nothing happened, I thought this might be a sign of a bad water pump. I think I will be able to change the water pump on my own I just want to know for sure if that is the problem.
I agree with f100-supersabre's answer. And here's some more to ponder... Chances are your water pump is just fine. When was the last time, if ever, you serviced your cooling system? And by that I mean dumping the old anti-freeze, back flushing the system to include the heater core and refilling with fresh coolant. If the answer is never then your radiator is probably toast. The internal passages are clogged and it does not dissipate heat effectively any more. Another thing to consider: the electric cooling fan(s). How many does your car have? With one fan, the fan will run: Anytime the A/C is switched on. When the tempurature sensor in the cooling system rises above the preset value of the sensor. With two fans: One will only and always operate when the A/C is switched on. The second will operate in response to the preset value of the cooling system sensor. Check the operation of the fan or fans. Turn on the A/C, the fan or one of the fans will turn on. With one fan only, turn the A/C off and let the car idle until the the single fan turns on in response to engine temperature. With two fans, you can let the A/C run and let the car idle until the second fan turns on in response to engine temp. If the fans don't work as they should, the first place to look is for a blown fuse. High amp fuses are found in the engine bay in a seperate fuse box ...look for this ..pop the lid and check the fuses. A map for the fuse purpose/location is usually found under the lid. If the fuses look okay, then it may be a bad sensor or it might be a bad fan. The sensor is usually less expensive and easier to swap out than the fan assemblies. Your cooling system, if has been neglected, may need both a radiator and some work on the fans if they prove less than up to snuff.
Q: About 2 months ago I started hearing a noise coming from my bathroom that sounded like loud humming every 3 or 4 seconds after I would turn on the water or flush the toilet. I noticed that when this noise happened the water pressure would increase and then it would go back to normal. Then the noise started to get louder. Last night while my husband was taking a shower the water lost pressure and then completely turned off. Now I have no water at all whatsoever except for maybe a few drops when I turn the faucet on. I have a private well and when I bought the house I was told that the well is underneath one of my bedrooms because the house was built on to and they built over the well. I know I can get to the pump from the crawl space. Has anyone had this problem or does anyone know what it might be or maybe even how much it could cost to fix?
Do you have a pressure tank? if so you might need a new pressure tank. My well had a similar problem which required me to replace both the pump and pressure tank. check your tank first if you have one if not you will have to replace the pump unfortunately you are in a predicament on location of the pump this pump should be removed vertically and with a crawl space this will prove to be difficult. I hope this helps good luck on the situation. If doing yourself please note this is a 2-3 man job on pump replacement. Pumps generally run between 100-300$ make sure the pump you purchase meets ampage requirements of the existing pump.
Q: I have a 1999 Volkswagen Passat and the water pump seems to be leaking. The lower radiator hose has been replaced but it still leaks a fairly substantial amount. From what I can tell the pump is still doing its job but I'm losing coolant. Is there a way I can determine if i just need a new gasket or a new pump altogether without ripping the front end off? Any feedback is appreciated.
Before you go to replace anything, you must find and repair the source of the leak. See radiator pressure test video below:
Q: Had house power washed today and need my water to work again!
You really need to get an experienced Electricain there. Seems you have water that has worked its way into the electrical panel. And electricity and water does not mix. If you are comfortable working with this panel its really simple fix. First disconnect the wires on the breaker that is popping. As you look at the breaker the side opposite of the wires, you will need to pull up and then out to remove the breaker. Use a electrical cleaner, brake cleaner, starting fluid, anything that does not leave a residue and clean the breaker well. Also look for any water in the enclosure and spray it down until the water is gone. Depending on how much mositure you have, you may be able to use a towel to soak up some of the moisture in this panel. Be very careful because there is live voltage still in the enclosure.

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