• Well Pump 5SC System 1
Well Pump 5SC

Well Pump 5SC

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Well Dia.:>132mm(5")
Speed:2850rpm
oltage(50Hz):220V-380V~
Capacity(m
3/h):2~4
Outlet:G1 1/4"
Max.Dia.(mm):126

-Pump
Qmax:7.8(m3/h)
Capacity from 2 to 4(m
3/h)
Total head from 75 to 13(m)

-Motor
Continuous service.
Power:0.55 to 1.5 KW(Single phase)
Power:1.1 to 1.5 KW (Three phase)
Insulation class:B
Protection grade:IP 68
Maximum diameter:?126
Highest temperature of liquid:35℃

Type

Motor
power
Capacity and headDimensions
single phase
220-240V~
Hz50
Three phase
380-415V~
Hz50
m3/h033505867758392100LengthWeight
L/min0233.544.555.56mmkg
5SC403-0.55
5SC403F-0.55
0.550.75Head
(m)
32282725232119151346416
5SC404-0.75
5SC404F-0.75
0.75143383634312825191751018
5SC406-1.1
5SC406F-1.1
125SC406-1.1
125SC406F-1.1
1.11.5 65565451474237282660020
5SC407-1.5
5SC407F-1.5
125SC407-1.5
125SC407F-1.5
1.52 75666359544944373065622

Q: I just opened up the water pump on my '86 cr250 and found it to be pretty dry. Found out why as soon as I threw some light on it. Yep, all but a TINY hole in both hose nipples (?) are completely gunked up in some nice light green/white crap.Does anybody know what this is? Okay obviously it's coolant, but why is it so dry? What causes it? My bike never quot;overheatedquot;, but there's very little travel room for the liquid. What should I do now? Clean it out and run new water through it?
Appears your cooling system has not been flushed for years thus the build-up of slime, (seems maybe even 'dry-slime'). The cooling system should be flushed clean, a new water pump and gaskets installed.
Q: For the past couple days my car has been over heating quickly and there ha been some leaking underneath my car. well I went to start my car today to run to the store and the heating gauge was going up and down from overheating to perfectly fine within seconds...I popped the hood and there was antifreeze spraying on the engine. So my friend that I called said that meant there was a leak in my water pump. The autoshop in town is busy with over cars all day, I already called, and there isn't another shop within 15 miles. I work in 3 hours, and the drive is 30 minutes away. I have no other way to get to work, is it safe to drive my car or should I call in and let my manager know I can't make it? I have been working there almost 2 months and have never been late or called in.
for someone that has spare hose laying around, it could have been repaired in less than 15 minutes with a piece of hose with an inside diameter the same size as the outside diameter of the original pump hose. 2 hose clamps and your good to go. fill her up and drive to work then get a new hose and replace it yourself or get it to a shop. This answer is more for anyone visiting this question now rather than the original poster.
Q: Water pump for 98 Venture?
To replace the water pump on the 3.4L Venture calls for 1.3 hours labor (about $130) and the pump is about $30 and it is a good idea to replace the thermostat and flush the cooling system to get maximum life out of the pump and your cooling system about $100 so you would be looking at about $350
Q: I have a 1 HP water pump that will pump water through a 1 and 1/2hose. What is the approx. GPM (just to have a reference) of a pump like this?
It varies quite a bit but I would say anywhere from 6gpm - 10gpm.
Q: hiI have very low pressure only on the hot water in my kitchen sink. Cold water is fine. Can anyone recommend a water pump/power shower i can use for boosting my hot water in the kitchen sink tap?Ive already tested the faucet by swapping the water supplies.thanks
Your hot and cold water should be at equal pressures. I suspect you have a restriction in your hot water supply, possibly the under the sink shut off or is semi closed or the hot water tank main shutoff is partially shut off…or the hot water system is clogged somewhere.
Q: i have a 2000 chevy malibu (i know it sucks) i fixed the intake manifold gaskets (upper and lower) thermostat and its still leaking and sometimes overheating. my next thought is its the water pump. there's no crack in the radiator or hoses is there anything else that can cause it to overheat besides these. what about vacuum leakage? o2 sensors?
If you carefully squeeze or even feel some of the coolant hoses while the car is running then you will find out if the water pump is working. You should feel the coolant in the hose surging through the hose. You said it's still leaking coolant, but can't you see where it's coming from - then go from there? Are you getting any white smoke out the tailpipe - this would be a possible blown head gasket, a crack somewhere in the engine block or coolant water jackets. All of these would cause the coolant to seep into the combustion chamber and burn off, usually causing unmistakable white smoke (you see these cars on the road sometimes). I also agree with having a mechanic do a cooling system pressure check - this is the best way to tell where or if the coolant is leaking somewhere. They should also be able to diagnose the problem if its something else, and can easily tell if its the water pump too. Instead of wasting your own time and money, maybe its time to see a mechanic. I also like doing my own work, but sometimes you have to throw in the towel and let a reliable mechanic check it out. BTW, a vacuum leak would not cause overheating, but would cause bad idling, surging, bogging, etc. O2 sensors could cause similar problems, but again not an overheat. I hope I'm wrong, but you may have a blown head gasket.
Q: Was I supposed to lube the water pump or what. I really don't know what it could be making the noise now. But it goes away after about 5-25 seconds of running, what could it be?
It is the belt slipping on the pully before the material warms up from friction to make it grip better. The squeeling sound is the pully and the belt slipping as the motor is warming up. It is nothing to be concerned about and it is definately NOT your water pump. If the sound bothers you, as it would me, then goto your local auto parts store and buy a cheap can of belt stop slip. It costs less then five bucks and it is a sticky substance like stickum or sapp in a spray can that will help your belt to better grip the pullies and it will stop your problem. What you want to do is this, wait until your car is cold and have someone start the car while you are standing over the motor ready to spray the can onto the belt. You will instantly hear the noise quit as soon as you squirt the can onto the moving belt. Once the engine starts and the belt is moving, just hold the spray down for 3 seconds and it will coat the underside of the belt and your problems will be over. You might want to try to spray an area that will allow the spray to coat the underside of the belt, i.e. the part that comes in contact with the pully. You only want to spray the belt while the engine is running and the belt is moving. That way your 3 second squirt will coat the entire underside of the belt as it moves under the spray can. Kinda like oiling a bicycle chain while moving the pedals and spinning the chain while holding the can in one place as opposed to oiling the chain while the chain is stationary and trying to cover the whole chain. It is impossible to reach all the places becuase some will be hidden behind other parts. That is why you want your motor running while you squirt the belt with the can of sticky belt stop squeel. It will stop squeeling immediately as soon as you spray it on the moving belt. The guy at Pep Boys or Advanced auto parts should know what you want.
Q: Motor has over 200k miles. Water pump took a dump. Gear is very wobbly! primary timing chain tensioner off the right bank hasn't any tension on chain at all! Crank turns but doesn't turn the chain. So motor is way out of time for sure now.Found small piece of aluminum and 2 -1/2pieces of appears to be a spring pin. Am I correct to assume these pieces are from the water pump? A new chain and water pump I can see doing on this old motor! But? Any suggestions on what to do next before I waste my money? What kind of compression reading can I get with all the plugs out and manually turning the crank? Short answers of scrap it not welcomed! I'll determine that after I'm satisfied it's truly bad! Thanks!
I also own a 2001 Intrepid and recently had a water pump go bad which also broke my timing chain. The pieces of aluminum you found are probably valves or valve springs from the head. Mine broke every vavle and spring on one head when my engine jumped time and a few more on the other head that is probably what your seeing. Also you don't want to check for compression by turning the crank manually. It is an expensive job to fix but the cars are great but I wouldn't spend too much on them because they only go for about $3000-3700 in great condition nowadays. Good Luck
Q: The role of impeller in water pump
Pump impeller through the motor to drive rotation, so that the medium (water) by centrifugal force or lifting force, so that the medium has mechanical energy (kinetic energy)
Q: 89 Dodge van overheats, no water leak, replaced thermostat but still overheats.
leave the cap off and start it. if it circulates then the water pump is still good. you say it overheats? flush out the radiator. if that van has a electric fan then make sure it is kicking on.

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