• Water Pumps Made In China Good Quality On Sale System 1
  • Water Pumps Made In China Good Quality On Sale System 2
  • Water Pumps Made In China Good Quality On Sale System 3
Water Pumps Made In China Good Quality On Sale

Water Pumps Made In China Good Quality On Sale

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
100 set/month

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1.Specifications

1)High performance
2)Mechanical seal
3)Cast iron impeller or bronze impeller
4)Lower vibration water pump
5)Large flow

2.Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

export wooden cases

Delivery Detail:

within 30 days once receipt of 30% T/T prepayment

BPO Irrigation Centrifugal Split Water Pump

3.FEATURES

BPO series single-stage double-suction open type centrifugal pump self-researched by the Company after absorbed advanced technology of similar products and combined application requirement of various customers. The series pump adopts excellent hydraulic model, wider type spectrum and better structure. Pump casing is produced by special machine tool, which ensures concentricity among shaft bearing, shaft and pump case, and provides better reliability and maintainability. Apply to municipal water supply and drainage, water circulation of air conditioner, agricultural hydraulic engineering, such as irrigation, drain flooded fields etc., industrial water supply system, firefighting system, water supply and drainage of
heating system, transportation of clean water

4. OPERATING CONDITION

a)Rotate speed: 2950r/min, 1480 r/min, 980 r/min, 730 r/min
b)Flow range: 64.4~9810m3/h
c)Delivery lift: =200m
d)Medium temperature: =80 ,
e)product adopting special materials: -20 ~120
f)Ambient temperature: Lower than 40
g)Operating pressure up to achieves 2.5MPa

5. MATERIAL 

a)Pump casing: Cast iron or magnesium iron
b)Pump cover: Cast iron or magnesium iron
c)Impeller: Cast iron, magnesium iron or tin bronze
d)Sealing ring: Cast iron or tin bronze
e)Pump shaft: 45# steel plated with chrome
f)Dynamic and static mechanical sea: Hard carbide, graphite
g)Configuring other material according to requirement is allowable

Rated flow

10(m3/h)

Rated head

26m

Rated power

1.5Kw

Voltage

220V

Rated Current

7.2A

Rated speed

2860r/min

Discharge diameter

50mm

6.Conditions of use

Pumps used in the following conditions should be continuously to work properly: 
1. For water pumps suitable medium, medium temperature shall not exceed + 40°C
2. The medium PH value between 6.5 ~ 8.5 
3. The volume of medium containing solid impurity is less than 0.1%, the size is not more than 0.2 mm 
4. The power frequency 50 hz, voltage for single-phase 220 v, 380 v, three-phase voltage fluctuation range for rating of 0.9 to 1.1 times 
5. Diving depth of no more than 5 m, is not suitable for irrigation and drainage of sewage and chemicals.

Water Pumps Made In China Good Quality On Sale

Water Pumps Made In China Good Quality On Sale


Q: Pump adapter belongs to the system of fire pool equipment?
Not belong to. According to the specification, fire hydrant system and automatic sprinkler system fire water supply pipe should be installed on the pump adapter, therefore, it belongs to the fire water supply facilities.
Q: I was wonder if there is a water pump in the out drive, my boat is overheating we are think it could have something to do with the water pump
So far the only other answer is dead wrong. Your Bayliner has a raw water pump mounted inside the boat. Depending on HP it might be on the front of the crankshaft, or opposite the alternator on the AQ120-140 motors. Then there is a second water pump, which circulates the water through the block. There is no 3rd water pump. None of the Volvo engines have a water pump in the stern drive. I repeat none! The Raw water pump is a rubber impeller. The Thermostat can also be blocked and cause overheating. In some cases it's actually rust/crud that block the exhaust elbows which in turn blocks flow. If you run it on a flush attachment you might be able to check blockages by the amount of water exhausted from the transom/drive. You can edit your question with your specific engine. It takes 7 to 10 min to replace the water pump impeller. You do not have to prime the water pump....ever. Do not however run with out water. Either being in the lake,Bay. ocean, or using the correct flush attachment.
Q: What's the difference between a double suction pump and a single suction pump?
The 3 floor of a friend, the next time you quote us the trouble to answer, please indicate the source, at least to keep integrity! Now on the market a variety of micro pump, micro pump, micro pump, high pressure micro water pump, liquid sampling pump, small pump, self suction pump, DC pump, diaphragm pump, whether has the function of self suction, mainly refer to the following two points: 1. means: self suction pump suction pipe is in the air, using form a negative pressure pump at work (vacuum), under the influence of the atmospheric pressure will be lower than the water pumping port, then discharged from the pump discharge end. Before this process, there is no need to add "diversion water". The pump with this capability is called a self suction pump". 2., some centrifugal or rotary vane pump, before absorbing water, you must add "water diversion" in the pump cavity to form a closed environment, and then pump operation to form negative pressure, to achieve the purpose of water absorption. For example, a manual pump used in rural areas. No self-priming capacity of the pump, each time before adding water to add "water" is very troublesome. 3., suction level, with the pump power, flow, structure and so on, but the general micro pump self-priming process is not easy to do higher
Q: i installed a new pump don't know how to increase water pressure and to what what pressure it should be set
This is very simple i would sugest the pressure to be set betwene 60 to 70 NO MORE THAN 70. 1. turn off power to pump (ether the circut breaker or a switch near the pressure switch) you dont want to weld the wrench to the switch. 2. remove the cover to the pressure switch its self (usly one #2 phillips screw) 3. now you will see 4 wires under some sloted screws nearest to the front of the switch, behint that is 1 or 2 bolts with a spring and a nut. 4. if you see 2 bolts you will want to turn the nut on the larger one to the right. you will want to tighten it about 1 to 2 full turns. (the same goes if there is only one bolt also) 5. now open the valve that is on the tank untill you here the switch click. then close the valve. 6. turn the power back on tio the pump and watch the pressure gauge on the tank. i DO NOT RECOMEND MORE THAN 70PSI. 7. if it goes over the pressure you want repete steps above exept loosen the nut in about 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you reach the desired pressure 8. if it does not reach your desired pressure then you do the same thing exept tighten the nut in 1/4 to 1/2 turns untill you attain your desired pressure. 9. when the pressure is reached, replace cover so you dont risk rusting the contacts. if you need more help feel free to email me. and i will assist you in any way that i can.
Q: my water pump went bad on my 1997 chevy cavalier, causing it to leak all the coolant it had in the system. i put water in it til i could get new water pump. changed out water pump. attempted getting air out of system. put more concentrated coolant in system than i did water. bad guessing on my part. ran car around block 5 times. it was fine. this morning on the way to work, it started overheating again. my thoughts : more air in system that's not coming out? thermostat REALLY went bad at same time as water pump???? overheating all because of a little too much coolant??? for some crazy reason, my system needs to be suddenly flushed? Your thoughts? one last thing, the car has always ran perfectly normal temp til water pump went bad.
Sounds like a typical air lock, you need to bleed the system, should hopefully be a bleed screw often running off heater pipe at the back of engine! Check to see if top and bottom pipe are hot when running, or heater not blowing warm usually a good indicator of air in system! Just found this! To bleed the cooling system on a 1997 Chevy Cavalier, there is a small brass bleeder valve located on the heater pipe that runs along the front of the motor (metal pipe). Open that valve a couple turns and pour in the antifreeze in the reservoir tank until antifreeze starts dripping from the bleeder hole. Tighten the valve, but be careful not to tight too tight, they are soft brass and break easy. Finish filling the reservoir to the Full Cold mark. After driving the car at least one time and letting it cool down, check the antifreeze level on the reservoir and fill as needed.
Q: The water burst how to repair?
If it is not too serious, with casting glue on the line, it is best to use serious brazing, don't use the electrode,
Q: My car is overheating and i don't know why just trying to rule out as many options as possible.Things it is most likely not: blown gasket/cracked head, both replaced 2 years ago and no tell tale signs I will be doing a block test soon, thermostat replaced it and put the old one in hot water and it opened, hoses replaced with new one two years ago, no leaks pressure test a few days ago. Things yet to be ruled out The radiator being clogged or not allowing good airflow, water pump impeller failure.
if you have no fan activity, it will get hot at low speeds and at a stop position.
Q: Okay, the fan has the clutch unit on the front with the large nut attaching it to the water pump. Then 4 screws attach the pulley to the water pump as well. What's the best way to immobilize pulley/pump so I can get the fan blade clutch nut unscrewed? Can't hold onto the fan or clutch unit since it simply spins. Can't realy seem to hold onto the pulley either as it prefers to spin? Any suggested best ways?
First remember this tighten is loosen and loosen it tighten with the big nut on the fan clutch. And there is a tool you can buy (BMP design and Bavarian autosport have them) but I never bought one because I only could have used it once, and I try to keep my tool box as empty as I can. All this with the belt on..Get the biggest screwdriver you have and a heavy hammer. Now put the screwdriver on the tighten side one of the flat sides edge. Take hammer and give it a big wack. As long as the last guy put the fan clutch on right it should take no more than 2 tries to loosen it. Once its loose just spin it off by the fan blades and pull it out. I only once had to use a sawsall (only time I could have used the tool)on both the water pump and fan clutch to do a water pump job and after inspection I found some moron used lock tight. When you reinstall just spin it on and that's it no need to tighten.. I like to put antiseize on the bolt threads so I know the next time I have to remove the fan it will come off like buttahr...
Q: A tank is full of water. Find the work W required to pump the water out of the spout. (Use 9.8 for g and 3.14 for pi . Round your answer to three significant digits.)The tank is a spherical shape has a radius r= 6m and a spout height of h=2m.I really dont know how to start this problem correctly. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks!
The pump will not have to work until the water drains by gravity to the level of the spout. Then, Work = Weight of water * Height of lift Find the distance, d, of the center of mass for the remaining water in the bottom 2 m of the sphere. The height of lift will then be 2m - d. The hardest part is finding the distance d to the center of mass. I don't remember how to do that.
Q: I have a bad water pump on my golf gti.Engine is 2.0L. I just would like to know how hard is it to do it myself. And also is there some special tools that I need.How much time usually takes to get this done? Thank you
This Site Might Help You. RE: 96 vw golf gti water pump? I have a bad water pump on my golf gti.Engine is 2.0L. I just would like to know how hard is it to do it myself. And also is there some special tools that I need.How much time usually takes to get this done? Thank you

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