• Water Pump  Series Submersible Sewage Pump On Top Sale Made In China System 1
  • Water Pump  Series Submersible Sewage Pump On Top Sale Made In China System 2
  • Water Pump  Series Submersible Sewage Pump On Top Sale Made In China System 3
  • Water Pump  Series Submersible Sewage Pump On Top Sale Made In China System 4
Water Pump  Series Submersible Sewage Pump On Top Sale Made In China

Water Pump Series Submersible Sewage Pump On Top Sale Made In China

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
100 set/month

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1.Specifications

1)High performance
2)Mechanical seal
3)Cast iron impeller or bronze impeller
4)Lower vibration water pump
5)Large flow

2.Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:

export wooden cases

Delivery Detail:

within 30 days once receipt of 30% T/T prepayment

BPO Irrigation Centrifugal Split Water Pump

3.FEATURES

BPO series single-stage double-suction open type centrifugal pump self-researched by the Company after absorbed advanced technology of similar products and combined application requirement of various customers. The series pump adopts excellent hydraulic model, wider type spectrum and better structure. Pump casing is produced by special machine tool, which ensures concentricity among shaft bearing, shaft and pump case, and provides better reliability and maintainability. Apply to municipal water supply and drainage, water circulation of air conditioner, agricultural hydraulic engineering, such as irrigation, drain flooded fields etc., industrial water supply system, firefighting system, water supply and drainage of
heating system, transportation of clean water

4. OPERATING CONDITION

a)Rotate speed: 2950r/min, 1480 r/min, 980 r/min, 730 r/min
b)Flow range: 64.4~9810m3/h
c)Delivery lift: =200m
d)Medium temperature: =80 ,
e)product adopting special materials: -20 ~120
f)Ambient temperature: Lower than 40
g)Operating pressure up to achieves 2.5MPa

5. MATERIAL 

a)Pump casing: Cast iron or magnesium iron
b)Pump cover: Cast iron or magnesium iron
c)Impeller: Cast iron, magnesium iron or tin bronze
d)Sealing ring: Cast iron or tin bronze
e)Pump shaft: 45# steel plated with chrome
f)Dynamic and static mechanical sea: Hard carbide, graphite
g)Configuring other material according to requirement is allowable

Rated flow

10(m3/h)

Rated head

26m

Rated power

1.5Kw

Voltage

220V

Rated Current

7.2A

Rated speed

2860r/min

Discharge diameter

50mm

6.Conditions of use

Pumps used in the following conditions should be continuously to work properly: 
1. For water pumps suitable medium, medium temperature shall not exceed + 40°C
2. The medium PH value between 6.5 ~ 8.5 
3. The volume of medium containing solid impurity is less than 0.1%, the size is not more than 0.2 mm 
4. The power frequency 50 hz, voltage for single-phase 220 v, 380 v, three-phase voltage fluctuation range for rating of 0.9 to 1.1 times 
5. Diving depth of no more than 5 m, is not suitable for irrigation and drainage of sewage and chemicals.

Water Pump  Series Submersible Sewage Pump On Top Sale Made In China

Water Pump  Series Submersible Sewage Pump On Top Sale Made In China


Q: water flow at faucet only when pump is running, but flow is slow
boogies right. you could have debris in ur lines, an inadequate pump, or something much worse take it to a service center if its new it should b covered under warranty
Q: i have the power max xp652 water pump, 2 inch inlet and outlet, 6.5 horsepower, and says it can reach 100 psi. now i bought the pump so i can use it for my mobile detailing business, the problem is im barely getting 40 psi out the end and its not very much water to wash a car with. Im using a two inch suction hose to get it in, then right after the outlet i reduced it down to 3/4 inch into a 50 ft. garden hose. this only got me 40 psi and the nozzle was basically just spitting it out, so i tried using 50 ft. of 1/4 inch pressure washer hose and it didnt change anything still 40 psi. so please if there is any way i can up the psi, please tell me any ideas are good. i dont know if its just because i reduced it down too quick or if my suction hose is too big. someone who is into hydraulics please help.
Larger diameter inlet and hose pipes will help reduce the dynamic resistance during spraying.. But it is not clear how you are measuring the pressure. If the nozzle is off and you are measuring 40 lbs of pressure then that is all the pump is producing. This could be that the pump cannot provide the pump cannot pump to that pressure, or that the pressure release valve is set too low. Somewhere there is a valve that lets excessive pressure escape. That is usually very near the pump and it may release the pressure back into the reservoir - so you cannot rely on water spilling out someplace.
Q: The plumber has disappeared on us with 99% of the job done. Our new basement remodel has baseboard heating installed, a water pump attached to the furnace/boiler, but no heat downstairs because their is no thermostat. I haven't checked to see if he did any wiring. (Wouldn't that be an electrician's job?) I've ordered a wireless thermostat kit, and I'm assuming installation instructions for the base are included, but it hasn't arrived yet. What should I do to get that pump pumping hot water to keep us nice and cozy?
That part in the picture is a high limit control with manual reset. It has nothing to do with the pump. You will need more than a thermostat to control the added pump. When you have more than one pump the system is zoned .You need a switching relay panel (Taco SR502) that not only turns on the pump , but also the burner. There is a lot to know here and it's best left to a heating contractor.
Q: I keep having to add water to. Doesn't do anything when it's sitting up. But after you drive it straight for about 25 minutes. Time to add some more water. I figure it's the water pump. It's not leaking anywhere so it has to be a failing water pump. Oil still looks good, no smoking. AC and heater blows fine. Just runs hot after a while. I need another opinion. Its the 4 cylinder also. And yes it does be steaming. Tired of having to add water everyday.
Because it doesn't drip when it's just sitting shows you that it doesn't leak untill it's hot pressurized. So, drive it until the temp is 'normal', then stop but leave the engine running see if you can find the drip with the engine hot. Also, the water pump is not a 'normal' source for lost coolant - More likely a lose hose clamp....
Q: We had to have our well pump replaced yesterday, how long before the well settles down, and the water tastes like it used to?The company who replaced the pump told us when changing a pump it disturbs the well, and it would take time for everything to settle back into place. Thank you in advance for any and all suggestions.
There are several things that contribute to settling down. If the pump was the only thing changed and not the depth it will no doubt take a couple of weeks. How far off the bottom of the vein of water does the pipe begin. Another factor is the type of soil. Sandy soil will generally run clear in a shorter period of time. If you have clay soil it will take longer. Another factor is the time of year. Given the fact that the water tables themselves change during the course of the year and depends on where you live. For example, If you've lived there for a few years you've probably noticed that you get more rust in your water in January and August. A not so good scenario would be that the water vein is changing or diminishing and that's why the pump went out in the first place. But, that is something the well people should have checked for. I would find out from them how deep the vein is and how far off bottom you are. That's something you should know anyway. Many if not all States require this information to be given to them and is recorded when a new well is bug. You can probably access the information on-line at your States website. However, I would still ask the well people for the information in case the information is not required by your state. This way they would have a better recollection of any particulars.
Q: I just put a new water pump in my jeep and after I put it in I ran it and it seemed to have a small leak while it was running it seems like it was coming from the crank which is under the water pump so it might be a leak coming from the bottom of the pump. When I turn the car off it is no longer a leak its more like pouring water out. What do you think it can be? I put a gasket and the blue silicone gasket sealant all around it and on it before I put it in so I have no idea. Thank you for the help.
Sound like the new water pump is junk. The water is leaking out of the weep hole. That is a hole designed to leak when the pump bearing is going bad. It is a safety precaution so you don't fry the bearing and lock up your pulley system.
Q: One mechanic told me that my Toyota Corolla 2004 CE's water pump is leaking and I need to change pump and its belt costing me around $450. I took it to other mechanic today and he told that water pump looks good and no need to worry. I need to know how I can verify that water pump is leaking or not. Below are some facts of the car that I noticed myself.1. The engine collant level is above half level about at 70% 2. I started my car around 8.30 PM @ 90 degree F after break of 3 hours and the temprature gauge reach to half in 5 minutes.Please advice what can be done to determine the leak is there or not else I have to take it to other mechanic.
You did not say how many miles your 2004 Corolla CE currently has? We have owned 5 Toyotas from brand new and 211,000 miles is the most mileage we have gotten was on a 1993 Toyota Camry that did require radiator replacement. However, one of the more expensive preventive maintenance expenses requires replacement of Timing Belt every 75,000 to 90,000 miles when it also makes sense to replace Water Pump, Thermostat and both fan belts etc in one overhaul saving on expensive labor and normally being worry free of any breakdowns. If you are not overheating (meaning Temp Gauge runs normal) then I would say 1st Mechanic was just to put wool over your eyes but still one should always watch observe temperature gauge while vehicle is in operation and never run or drive if HOT <= put over to side of road and if recurring then carry gloves/bottle of water and see a good trustworthy mechanic. Hope the Above Info Helps!
Q: Where is the water pump located in a 1995 Toyota tacoma pick up truck. Please be as specific as possible as the the location of the pump. Like what is it undwr or next to...etc
Look at the fan and you'll see a pulley...it's attached behind that pulley. You're gonna have to remove the fan and shroud, remove the belt, remove the pulley and then remove the water pump, clean the gasket surface, and install the new one the same in reverse.
Q: Today I see the saying that if your pipe diameter has been selected, then the pipe diameter on the pipe diameter should be smaller. I don't know why
The size is only a matter of convenience or experience, and a small number of tubes are already available. As long as you can pick it up, you can use it.The so-called thick pipe to reduce resistance is a certain relationship. But it shouldn't be your decision to choose the big one. Then why don't you choose the big three? Four or the thicker ones?! @! The resistance will be smaller!!!!- - - - - - - - - - - - - - layman; look at the knowledge of fluid mechanics!!!The question is a conclusion, explain why not one or two words, learn the knowledge of fluid mechanics to know why -- try to answer it, that is to improve the water pump outlet total pressure head, intuitive feeling is to have enough pressure to pump out the water pressure. As for the big three or four, it is necessary to ensure that the flow velocity in the pipe is more uniform, otherwise the flow near the pipe wall will flow or flow too slowly due to viscous action.
Q: 94 f150,302. my pump is still leaking after doin the job twice. its a new pump, the first time i used the red silicone between pump and plate,both sides of gasket,and the housing on the block. leaked. then did it again with high tack gasket cement and still leaks. i cleaned all metal both times with brake clean before installing. same with thermostat housing,small leak. ive done 100s of pumps over the years,no problems, so please no rude remarks on mechanical ability. what could it be? it leaks up front of the motor above the crossmember where ya cant actually see the leak,its not a freeze plug. bolts are torqued. any ideas ? thanks
problematic point. lookup on to a search engine. that will can assist!

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