• Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump System 3
  • Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump System 4
Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Item:
Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump
Exporting countries:
Ameircan,Japan,Australian etc
Material:
Cast Iron

Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

 

Company Introduce

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.My company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.My company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.

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Product parameters of  Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

Capacity

up to 250 m3/h  

Head

up to305m

Speed 

up to 3600rpm

Power 

up to 200kw

Voltage

220V to 480V

Temperature range

Within 120 Deg C

 Working pressure

Within 40bar

Application of Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

It can be used to convey various medium from tap water to industrial liquid at different temperature and with different flow rate and pressure.

CDL type is applicable to conveying non-corrosive liquid, While CDLF is suitable for slightly corrosive liquid. 

Water supply: Water filter and transport in Waterworks, boosting of main pipeline, boosting in high-rise buildings. 

Industrial boosting: Process flow water system, cleaning system, high-pressure washing system, fire fighting system.

Industrial liquid conveying: Cooling and air-conditioning system, boiler water supply and condensing system, machine-associated purpose, acids and alkali .

Water treatment: Ultrafiltration system, reverse osmosis system, distillation system, swimming pool, separator.

Irrigation: Farmland irrigation, spray irrigation, dripping irrigation 


Operation Condition of  Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump

Thin, clean, non-flammable and non-explosive liquid containing no solid granules and fibers.

Liquid temperature:

Normal temperature type: -15~+70,

Hot water type: +70~+120

Ambient temperature: Up to +40

Altitude: Up to 1000m 

 

Electric motor of  Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump
Full-enclosed air-blast two-pole standed motor 
Protection class: IP55 
Insulation class: F 
Standard voltage 

 

50Hz: 
1x220230/240V 
3x200220/346380V 
3x220240/380415V 
3x380415V 
60Hz: 
3X200230/346400V 
3x220255/380440V 
3x220227/380480V

 

Picture show of  Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump


Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump


Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump


Why choose us

 High Quality
1.Exported to 58 Countries
2. More than 90% customers make payment before meeting us!
3. Reorder rate up to 80%
4. Never sell any renewed pumps
5. Focus on middle and high-end market,we never seize market by using inferior material

FAQ

1. How to get our quotation in time, pls answer following questions:
    1)What liquid do you transfer?oil ,food or corrosive chemical liquid,with solid particle or not and so on 
    2) What's the flow or capcity (m3/h, L/m)? 
    3) What's the discharge head (m, feet, Mpa, bar )
     If you do not have any request, we will do as our normal standard.
  4) Contact us by under  business card information
2.OEM: Ok 
3. MOQ: 1set
4. Package: Standard export wooden case(also according to your requirements)
5. Shipping ways: By sea, By air, By express
6. Lead time: 3-15days
7. Warranty Period: One year, except spare parts 

Trading market

Vertical Multistage Cast Iron Centrifugal Pump


Transportation

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Q: how do i take water pump off took all hoses and bolts i think off dont know whats holdin it on how many bolt hold it on i know the seal can hold it on ther but it wont budge even when i use block of wood and tap with hammer
Lt1 Water Pump
Q: Could this be a result of a bad water pump.
Possible head gasket or warped head. The water is getting out to the water jacket and into the top of the piston. Some water coming out of the exhuast is normal. It would not be a water pump.
Q: What is the safety head of a pump? Why should a safety head be added?
In fact, to prevent pipeline errors, generally take 0.5 meters margin, just in case the pipeline changes, resistance, and do not smoke Sheung Shui
Q: i took off the water pump cover on my 1986 cr 250 and discovered that the impeller wont come off. ive tried turnig it the wrong way and the right way. can someone please tell me how to get it off.
Remove the water pump cover, Now you will see the impeller and it has a little 10 mm(I think) nut fitting on it. Put the bike in gear and apply the rear brake. Now unscrew the impeller with a socket wrench. Take it easy as they are quite soft. Once that is off, you should be able to pry the seal out, and pop a new one in. A good way to get old seals out is to use a screw, screw it in to the seal then grab it with the pliers. You might want to replace the oil seal while you are there since they are so cheap. To do this though you will have to remove the rh crank case cover cause this seal sits in the inside of this cover. This is also an easy job. When you remove the rh crank case cover ( with impeller already removed) the water pump shaft should just slide out from the inside and give you easy access to both seals.
Q: i'm trying to make a small water fountain, i have a tiny motor that i can use, but i dont know how to use it to make the water go up :( haha heeeelpthanks in advance:)
I doubt that your motor is waterproof. You would do better to just purchase one of the many fountain pumps all ready available at many home improvement centers or online. They are water proof and have the pump and motor all in one enclosure.
Q: my heater in my 94 ford ranger went out about a month ago today i flushed the heater core and it worked for a while and started going out again after i was driving for 15 to 20 mins. the hose going into the heater core was warm but coming out wasnt. could it have gotten clogged again or could it be something else.
You need to find the Heater Core water valve.. That's the part that works as the TEMP. Control.. Water Pumps don't die slowly..and leak tremendously.. === Sometimes the Water Control valve(seizes).. So..you need somebody to throw the TEMP Lever back and forth..until you can find the valve location.. You may see the cable moving--put not acting upon the valve.. Usually the valve is shot--spraying a lubricant at it won't do anything.. It needs to be removed--too be worked upon.. Also check all the heater hoses for wear--damage--you may need to rebuild that part of the system.
Q: and it still runs about every 1/2 hr even if you are not using water. I have no leaks from the pump thought the house so I think the problem is between the house and the well. I can't hear or see any leaks in the elbows in the well. I tried to pull the foot valve up but can't get it out. I replaced the pump cause it was worn out and it was running every 15 min. Do I need to set the pressure on the new one it cuts off at 42 and on at 20 psi and what else could cause it to run when it shouldn't? I know I should call a plumber, but haven't worked in months and can not afford one.
bleed air out possible leak between house and pump or pump and water either way sucks sorry ive pulled my fair share of pumps old farmboy its bleeding off somewhere thats the question sorry cant help find where look for wet or start pulling pipe out of ground sucks wil need a few friends
Q: The dealership wants nearly $500. to replace the water pump in our 2002 Tahoe (5.3) it's leaking from the weep hole. I'm somewhat mechanically declined, what precautions will I need to know and any special tools to do the job myself? I've done a few water pumps back in the 1980's that didn't leak Thank you
i have a 2002 silverado and i had the same problem, here is the deal i am mechanically inclined and the labor on this calls for about 6 to 8 hrs i went to napa and purchased a new water pump not a newly rebuilt one but a new for around 200.00 and let a buddy change mine for 125.00 also go ahead and replace the thermostat while its out because it mounts in the bottom of your water pump they are around 25.00 but anyways i would let someone do it i looked at mine and it covers the whole front of the engine i have replaced numerous water pumps and i didn't like the mess it looked like it would be
Q: A mechanic replaced my timing and other belts on my 2001 Mitsubishi Galant 4 cylinder today but not water pump. He said the water pump looked good. All the other mechanics I talked to told me they had to replace the water pump. This mechanic said the belts were not connected to the water pump in this car and therefore the water pump was ok. The car has about 100500 miles on it. Is this bad or should I call him back and ask him why he didn't change the water pump. I don't want to pay more later.
the reason why we tell people too replace the pump is because all the parts in the way are already off when you change the timing belt so its just a case of good measure and preventative maintenance not too mention it makes a little more money
Q: 3 months ago I had to replace the water pump on my Jeep (for $600!!!). Now I have leaking again and they are telling me that I need a new radiator. I'm wondering how did they know I needed a water pump last time (it was leaking just like now) and not a new radiator like they're saying this time? I know nothing about anything, and I feel like I'm not informed enough to know what they're really doing. Is this common?
Could be both. The water pump may have been leaking. Did the leak stop after the work was done? If so then it was leaking. The radiator may just have lived out it's life. Corrosion will eventually cause these types of things. I don't know where you're located but $600 for a water pump is a rip off. Maybe you went to the dealer? If it's not under a warranty and you're not buying a new one the jeep does not belong at the dealership. I recently did my water pump on my 94. $100 including new hoses and about 45 minutes. So even parts mark up and $60 labor should have been about $210 or so. For the radiator they are about $150 again depending on where you are. See if you can get a 3 core. More cooling capacity almost the same price. If you're around Maryland e-mail me and I can help you do it yourself.

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