• Variable Speed Circulation Pump System 1
Variable Speed Circulation Pump

Variable Speed Circulation Pump

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
-

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Q: please answer my below question whether it is possible or not.can i get 15,00,000 lit/day amount of water by using 10hp water pump at the distance of 5m total head?
10 Hp Submersible Pump
Q: My deep water pump buzzes when it pumps or something it just happen this morning so whats wrong with it
Assuming its not a submersible and just a jet type(motor on top of ground) its the capacitor for the start winding(probably one that was made in mexico) that has come open.Just go to a supply house(Johnson controls,Granger) and get a new one(if a sears pump it is internal).
Q: Assuming that my water pump standard flow is 20m3/h, tolerance value requirements is + 8%, then is not traffic 22m3/h is not qualified?
Tolerance coefficient is due in the manufacturing process, will, so each pump products are possible shapes and sizes do not conform to the pattern of the situation, and ensure the test results in the value (operating point) when compared, should be allowed to have a certain tolerance. It should be noted that these tolerances are only relevant to the actual pump and do not involve test conditions and measurement uncertainties.If the pump at a certain working point (the same lift) standard (Design) flow of 20m3/h, the actual flow of 22m3/h, indicating that the pump in the design process has unreasonable place, resulting in waste of power. Deviations from the manufacturing process usually have no positive deviation.
Q: Does anyone know where to find small A/C powered submersible pumps, that operate at 20-25 psi? I can only find D/C pumps for ship use.I need one for running humidifiers and misters for large terrariums
From your question description, I'd use a condensate pump. They are about 30 bucks wholesale, so figure 50 retail. Look at one. I bet it's what you need. They are used on HVAC units. They have good head pressure for 3/4 lines. Even bigger. Your question has a lot of open spots in it. So, I'm answering the best I can. Hope this helps.
Q: I need to fit a booster pump to increase pressure from a gravity fed vented solar water heater (uses vacuum tubes).The problem is that the temperature of the water from the solar panel can be very high - in fact it could boil under some circumstances. It's safe because the system is vented.As the quot;solarwater feeds existing water heaters in the house, diluting the hot with some cold prior to the pump with an automatic mixer valve is not really an attractive option as we want to gather as much hot water as possible.Can anyone tell me where to get a booster pump that can operate at up to 100 Deg C, delivering 2 bar pressure and about 25 liters per minute. Thanks.
Well, you have to have a mixer valve if your temps are over 140F If I understand you correctly, you could put your mixer valve on the gravity fed hot water and then the output of the mixer valve goes to the inlet of a pump that can handle 140F. Then you don't need a mixer on the hot water tank in the house. And finding a pump that can handle that temp will be a lot easier. Also, storing high temp water is very inefficient. The higher the delta Temp is from the water to the ambient surroundings, then the lower the efficiency. You could save just as much energy in the water by increasing your water tank size and lowering your temp. For instance a 100 gallons of water close to boiling has the same stored energy as 150 gallons of 140F water. And you don't need a mixer at that point and you don't need a special pump either. I'm assuming you are using storage on the roof with a thermosyphon? Can you add more water storage next to that one?
Q: Recently my car overheated on my way to work, and so I decided to give it some much needed TLC.I have replaced all in the last week:Spark PlugsDistributor Cap + RotorTiming BeltRelated to the cooling system:Water PumpThermostatAnd the heater still blows hot air so I believe the heater core is fine. Unfortunately even after a couple of radiator flushes the car continues to overheat. I'm considering replacing the radiator because I think it might have too much debris inside to flow properly.I used ZEREX Radiator Super Cleaner but was only able to acheive an hour and a half of driving before my car would not be able to drive anymore. (Supposed to be 3 hours, car temperature began to escalate far beyond what I'm confortable with) I also used ZEREX Radiator Super Flush to no avail.Any suggestions?Car info:Toyota Camry DX 19913S-FE Engine 2.0L I4 1998cc244,500 miles
If your fan is operating.. check to see if the water is circulating. Leave the cap off the radiator and bring up to temp..If it is not, you may have a vapor lock in the system, and will have to bleed the air out.
Q: Hello,Thanks for looking into my question. I am a little confused on the definition of a submersible water pump. I am assuming that they are actually submerged but that sounds a bit unlikely in my mind. I suppose if it has a GFCI setup built in with everything sealed beyond the portion that pumps, it would work submerged without any risks involved.Are submersible water pumps meant to be fully submerged? I am mainly interested in this information because I am concerned about the amount of noise they make, being submerged seems likely that they would not be able to be heard. Thanks.
they all make noise. my Ex had them all, arrrgh!
Q: my water pump went bad on my 1997 chevy cavalier, causing it to leak all the coolant it had in the system. i put water in it til i could get new water pump. changed out water pump. attempted getting air out of system. put more concentrated coolant in system than i did water. bad guessing on my part. ran car around block 5 times. it was fine. this morning on the way to work, it started overheating again. my thoughts : more air in system that's not coming out? thermostat REALLY went bad at same time as water pump???? overheating all because of a little too much coolant??? for some crazy reason, my system needs to be suddenly flushed? Your thoughts? one last thing, the car has always ran perfectly normal temp til water pump went bad.
sounds like a air block in the cooling system. leave the radiator cap off and start it. the air will push the antifreeze out but once the air is out it will start to circulate. you will have to add more antifreeze before putting the cap back on. don,t forget to add some to the reservoir.
Q: i have an 80' water well with an electric jet pump. is there an electric/manual water pump? i want to be able to have a hand pump attached to the electric pump, so i can still use water when the electricity goes out.
Maybe you have to drill a sperate well.
Q: Installation position of check valve for water pump
Check valves are normally installed at the pump's exit position!Check valve, also known as check valve, the specific installation needs to determine the direction of the pipeline!If the pipe in the installation position is vertical, you can choose the swing type and pipe type!If the installation position of the pipe is horizontal, you can choose the lifting type!Lift check valve opens and stops at the fastest speed!The swing check valve has the least resistance!The pipe type check valve is mostly in the form of clip type installation, which is suitable for the place where the installation distance is not enough!

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

Hot products


Hot Searches

Related keywords