• Variable Speed Circulation Pump System 1
Variable Speed Circulation Pump

Variable Speed Circulation Pump

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Q: can anyone show me the steps on how to remove the water pump on a 1995 dodge intrepid 3.5l engine?
im not too sure on that year, but i know that on the 2nd gen. intrepids the water pumps are a real pain to change. easiest way is to pull the engine, but thats not always practicle. dont quote me on this, but i think its behind the timing chain cover.
Q: 1996 Eagle Vision tsi,has a small coolant leak,was told it iso.k. due to a water pump pressure release valve?has anyone heard of this on an auto?I thought they were only in hot water tanks at home.
No there is not a pressure release valve on a vehicle water pump. There is however a weap hole, which is where it leaks from when your water pump goes bad. The pressure release on the cooling system is through the radiator cap.
Q: Im changing my water pump and it has a pully that the belt gos on in front of it and the pully has 1 big bolt in the middle of it and like 4 small ones around it and when i try to undo the bolts the pully turns and im not quite the mechanic but i do know that the pully has to come off 1st so how do i take out the bolts without the pully turning???? and yes the belt is off and battery id disconnected and the car is not hot it hasnt ran in days. and it has a 3.4 v6
For the best answers, search on this site https://shorturl.im/awNHT Did you hit up both bleeders? Run the car until the thermostat opens. You'll know when because the cooling fan will cycle on. With the car running, and the Rad cap off, start with the bleeder near the thermostat housing (RH side as you're looking at the motor from the front.) Leave it open until you have steady stream of coolant flowing. Close, and move to the bleeder on the left. It's on the metal tubing above the water pump. Same thing, open until coolant flows. Close bleeder, then run the engine up manually at the throttle body. Keep adding coolant to the radiator untill it's topped off with no bubbles coming out. Cap the radiator before letting off the gas. Fill the resevoir, to the full hot line or a little over. Any random small bubble with make their way to the res, being replaced by fluid.
Q: I have a 1969 Chrysler with a new 3 core radiator. It still has the stock water pump and I am wondering if a high volume pump would make it run cooler at higher speeds. It runs hotter when you get off the freeway. I have flushed the system and installed a new thermostat. I also replaced the fan clutch. I am at a loss of why it still runs warmer than the 180* thermostat.
IT is normal for the engne to WANDER AROUND the 180 degree temp! if the engine does NOT BOIL OVER, then things are FINE! COOLANT boils as you know at about 212 degrees, and it may take the COOLING FAN longer to TURN ON! BASICALLY< if the engine does NOT BOIL OVER< then everything is JUST OKAY! USUALLY chrylsers run on the COOL side GOOD LUCK!!
Q: i need to know how the water pumps, how it transports, where it goes, and how the structure is used to control the direction of the flow. Please help? I'd really like to know., thank you in advance!
you're saying that your pump used to function precise in the previous, so if the pump is in sturdy situation, the elevate should not be too great so we are able to rule that out. it sounds as though to me that the gurgling sound may well be made by potential of sucking air, and for this to ensue, it would be a concern on the inlet area of the pump. If the guy who repaired the pump is familiar with what he's doing, it won't be the pump, so we are able to rule that out. That leaves the pipe and any fittings between the pump and the foot valve that could desire to be on the top of the pipe. attempt working the pump, and pouring water over all joints and fittings, one after the different, if the pump is working precise, a slurping sound would be heard on the leak. The pump could have a priming factor, a screw in plug, someplace on proper of it. With the pump stopped, get rid of the plug, and pour water into the hollow. you will possibly desire to have the skill to fill the pump appropriate up, and the water stay at that time, without draining away. If it wont hold the water, the valve on the backside of the pipe is the two wiped out or has something like a stone or gravel struggling with it from working precise. As you have disconnected this pump for upkeep, it would have needed priming besides, that's the filling up with water. it is too plenty to ask a dry pump to enhance water any peak, so in step with danger you do not have a concern in any respect. sturdy success
Q: What causes a water pump on a car to go bad????? and are they a pain to change by yourself?????
I would say you have another problem. The water pump just pumps the water through the engine to keep it cool. In a 96 model cherokee I would assume you have the 4.0l V6. I would check the engine control module for damage. If you remove the module you can test it at autozone or some other parts center for free.
Q: $900 for a 96 neon but she says the water pump needs replaced.how much does it cost usually? is it even worth buying?
Water pumps cost from should cost from $40 to $100. The car probably has even more problems than the water pump considering the cars age and the price for it. You should take it to a local mechanic so that they can check it out and give you their input before buying it.
Q: i have a water leak near the water pump in my 1990 cadillac deville i replaced the water pump but it was remanufactured and a pipe on the back of the water pump can it be a heater core or should i buy a brand new one p.s. water leaks after it passes the radiator
this is why I do not buy remanufactured pumps, it is best to buy a new water pump if you can, it will last the lifetime of the car pretty much, remanufactured for what ever reason the water pumps just did not do the job, and I know my mechanic got tired of putting one on, only to have to take it off because it leaked, make sure the water pump is the problem though.
Q: I have a 2006 Mitsubishi Raider that I'm pretty sure needs a new water pump. It is still under warranty for another 1000 miles, but the nearest dealer is over 200 miles away, and Mitsubishi says they won't reimburse for work done at a non-Mitsubishi Dealer. I'm trying to figure out if the cost of just paying someone to have it done here in town versus having towed 200 miles and then driving it back, plus the lost cost of missed work.By the way my Mitsubishi Roadside Assistance will tow it to the nearest dealer for free, but last time I did that it was barely worth the hassle of dealing with their very poor contract towers.
Have you asked the dealer to send you the part at least? Call Mitsubishi and ask it that would be possible, you never know. You could send in the old pump and possibly get compensation. Keep your bills. Discuss it with them. Your dealer should provide you with the area Mitsubishi representatives contact information. The prices for those can be expensive. Ask the dealer, service dept, for the labour, how many hrs. to change the pump. They should tell you. Also for the cost of the pump. Add the two together and you have your ans. Join CAA, or AAA, get a gold card, wait two days for the card's towing to take effect, then have it towed in on the card. Done all the time. Or if you have a relative with a Gold card they can have it towed in as long as they are with the car with their card when the tow truck comes.
Q: My car is overheating and i don't know why just trying to rule out as many options as possible.Things it is most likely not: blown gasket/cracked head, both replaced 2 years ago and no tell tale signs I will be doing a block test soon, thermostat replaced it and put the old one in hot water and it opened, hoses replaced with new one two years ago, no leaks pressure test a few days ago. Things yet to be ruled out The radiator being clogged or not allowing good airflow, water pump impeller failure.
if you have no fan activity, it will get hot at low speeds and at a stop position.

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