• Strong Anti-abrasive Slurry Motor Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Strong Anti-abrasive Slurry Motor Centrifugal Pump System 2
Strong Anti-abrasive Slurry Motor Centrifugal Pump

Strong Anti-abrasive Slurry Motor Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specifications

1.Slurry Motor Pumps Made in China 
2.Material: high chrome alloy or rubber or ceramic 
3.Flow Rate: 10.8-5400m3/h 
4.Head: 3-11 

Anti-abrasive Slurry Pump, Slurry Motor Pumps Made in China

 

Various centrifugal pumps for pumping heavy slurry in agriculture,petrochem,manufacturing,energy and mining.

 

Pumps are designed and suitable for 3 main purposes:

1) Decrease electricity consumption and increase pump life


Our uniquely designed pumps limit slurry contact thus the efficiency is significantly higher and hence very big conventional slurry pumps can be replaced by a pump with a 20% of more smaller motor without affecting pumping performance. If energy bills and high cost of ownership is of concern, these pumps are the answer.

2) Lime and ash applications

Lime and ash pumping applications are particularly difficult for centrifugal slurry pumps because acceleration inside the pump causes the slurry to clump together into a solid clay degrading performance. We have a unique solution proven to work more efficiently and outlast conventional pumps. 

3) High viscosity liquids

Superior throughput rates compared to gear and vane pumps using a unique new design. Great for bitumen, all emulsions and fats.


Q: My dad bought a boat this winter and when we got it we watched the guy winterize it. He was doing this white it was running on muffs. We got the boat to run today (on muffs) but no water was coming out the pee hole. This is the first boat we have owned. We are rookies. We also don't to take it to a dealer. Is there anything we're doing wrong? I don't know for sure what year the motor is i think a 1900 something. It is 90 horse.
PANIC RUN AROUND IN CIRCLES AND PANIC! Especially if you use the term PEE HOLE! There are many possible causes so take it to some body who knows what the are doing otherwise it's going to get very very expensive!
Q: think the water pump is behind the crank pulley but im not certain I've pulled apart the front end but I'm having a hard time getting the pulley off so I want to make sure the part im trying to pull off is not the wrong one.
in time is correct....but if you are really good you don't need to pull of the balancer....although not recomened you can fold the belt behind it if you need to but the proper way is to take it off.....hay desperate times call for despirate measures!!!!....by the way you might want to replace the timing belt idler pulley as well....cause at about 190,000 the bearing will seize
Q: Hello, I'm having an issue with grinding/metallic noise from engine bay. Alternator was replaced today and didn't fix. However, when I got the car back from the garage the oil level indicator is saying quot;inactivequot;. I seem to find some answers on the web that say the oil level indicator is in some way connected to the water pump. Car has 95k miles on and I doubt it had been changed. Could this be the cause of the noise? And could anyone possibly tell me which pulley it is on the belt? Many thanks for your time :)
Alternator replaced? Will you be getting credit back for that? Anyway, at 95k it's almost about time to do a full preventive maintenance thing. That includes the water pump, belts, radiator hoses, I would do the tensioner and idle pulley too since one is there already. Would replace the radiator expansion tank too. Change the spark plug and valve cover gasket too while you are at it. The spark plug can be done separately, but it's time to replace them.
Q: The role of impeller in water pump
Pump impeller through the motor to drive rotation, so that the medium (water) by centrifugal force or lifting force, so that the medium has mechanical energy (kinetic energy)
Q: Water pump maintenance what should be maintained?
Bearings, seals, impellers - removing dirt
Q: I have a 1997 mazda 626 4cylinder. For a while now, my hot n cold gauge keeps wobbling back and forth. I was keeping water in it and it was fine. A week ago it went all the way to hot and started smoking. There is water gushing out right beside the pulleys. I'm not sure if it is the water pump or not. Now, my car won't crank. Someone told me that it was the rotor button, but i can't tell if it is bad. I don't really want to take it to a mechanic. Can someone help me?????
Change water pump and thermostat immediately
Q: i am not sure whether the water pump is bad or how much water should come out of exhaust.
take it in.
Q: I have a 1994 Plymoth Grand voyager and it is loosing anti freeze it was a little leak now I can't see it leaking but it is empty could it be the water pump? It does get hot now. what other things happen when your water pump is going out does the heater not get hot anymore?
If okorder /.. This site will help you determine if the pump is going out. Question: is there an intense sweet smell? If so, your head gasket(s)may be where the leak resides. Most of the leak would burn from the hot engine causing the sweet smell. Does your vehicle overheat? How fast does the coolant drain? Due to cramped space for a minivan, I can understand how you can't see it leaking.
Q: the water pump from the factory has an extra hole coming out the side its the smaller one on the end of this pic.
i've always gone by the 30 second rule. even a NEW or emptied for winter motor that must completely fill, 30 seconds should be long enough. if it hasnt begun pumping by that point, i turn it off and give it some time to cool while i double check everything. then i might give it a full 45 seconds. but it wont overheat in less then a couple of minutes. and if its not pumping with the hose hooked up, the impeller is probably bad already anyways. however, if you do even get it near warm, its already hotter then you think it is where the heat is produced, the cylinders, and where you have tight clearances on fast moving parts, the cylinders and pistons. and if it gets too hot, major damage is quickly done. BTW, service period on a merc impeller is always 100 hours or 3 years. or NOW, before the motor is damaged, if unsure of when it was last done. when the impeller is less then $50 (and about an hour labor, if paying for it) and a new motor is THOUSANDS, you cant replace it too often. dennis, you have NO clue. i suggest getting one before you ruin the motor in your own boat. and in the meantime, keep your bad advice to yourself.
Q: I have a 2002 Honda Civic Ex sedan with about 105k miles. Sometime before 110k I need to get the timing belt replaced. At about 95k my mechanic asked if I wanted to replace the timing belt and the water pump. According to the owners manual the timing belt must be replaced, but it simply says check the water pump.I don't want to pay for unnecessary repairs, but I also know that both of these jobs are quite involved, but can be done together fairly easily. Is there anything I can do to check myself or do I just have to trust my mechanic when I take it in. Also, what is the cost difference between the timing belt job and adding in the water pump at the same time?
additional cost on parts, water pump. for labor, no extra charge for it, since the area is already open, you may ask mechanic to install water pump together with timing belt, bargain with the mechanic...

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