• Strong Wear Resisting Horizontal Centrifugal Slush Pump System 1
  • Strong Wear Resisting Horizontal Centrifugal Slush Pump System 2
Strong Wear Resisting Horizontal Centrifugal Slush Pump

Strong Wear Resisting Horizontal Centrifugal Slush Pump

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Centrifugal Slush Pump

 

Various centrifugal pumps for pumping heavy slurry in agriculture,petrochem,manufacturing,energy and mining.

 

Pumps are designed and suitable for 3 main purposes:

1) Decrease electricity consumption and increase pump life


Our uniquely designed pumps limit slurry contact thus the efficiency is significantly higher and hence very big conventional slurry pumps can be replaced by a pump with a 20% of more smaller motor without affecting pumping performance. If energy bills and high cost of ownership is of concern, these pumps are the answer.

2) Lime and ash applications

Lime and ash pumping applications are particularly difficult for centrifugal slurry pumps because acceleration inside the pump causes the slurry to clump together into a solid clay degrading performance. We have a unique solution proven to work more efficiently and outlast conventional pumps. 

3) High viscosity liquids

Superior throughput rates compared to gear and vane pumps using a unique new design. Great for bitumen, all emulsions and fats.

 

FAQ

1       Are CNBM pumps available in DIY stores?

Yes, currently, we’re available for DIY stores all over the world.

2       Where do I have to send pumps for service?

You must send them to the CNBM PUMP Service Point or, after contacting Customer Care, to the CNBM PUMP service center in China.

3       Are your pumps acid-proofed?

To choose the right pumps for chemical applications, we do need further details on hydraulic operations as well as on the type, concentration and temperature of the liquid.



Q:Hoping that someone may read this.Broke down yesterday after re-filling coolant when car re-heated and mechanic who rescued us advised that the water pump is leaking and requires replacement.Our local garage have advised that to change the water pump also requires a new camber (?) kit and including both and 3.5 hours labour their total quote is ?315.08.This sounds crazy for changing a water pump - can anyone shed any light and reckon that they may be taking the mickey?Am not technical so wouldn't attempt to do work myself, however if we go back to garage, or to others, I'd like to know exactly what work needs doing.Thanks!
Ford Focus Water Pump
Q:I have a 1995 Honda Civic LX 1.5L that needs the water pump and timing belt replaced. What all part do I need to order to replace all of that?
HOW MANY MILES! This is a TOUGH CALL because a CONTINENTAL TIMING KIT for a HONDA is about $200 with NEW WATER PUMP PULLEYS and and BELT! A HIGH MILEAGE HONDA from taht year may bend a few VALVES if the belt breaks BEFROE you repalce it! Thsi wil requrie a NEW HEAD GASKET and a few new VALVES! AT this time NEW VALVE SEALS can be installed! An independent shop can do ALL THIS for about $1400-1500! he BELT KI is like waht I said here! OTHERWISE use ONLY GENUINE HONDA PARTS int here! teh CONINENAL kits are GREAT and made to HONDA PRECISION as well! PULLEYS and ENSIONERS are involved in thsi process, and only GENUINE HONDA COOLAN should be used ONLY! NO PRESTONE! Stay away from VALVOLINE OIL as well, it is made by WAX REDUCTION METHOD!
Q:My radiator light came on this morning i was running late for work so i topped it off with water (about twice a year the light comes on, it has only ever had to be topped off) and after about 20 minutes of driving it started to heat up, so i pulled over shut it offsomebody stopped checked the temp of the water in the reservoir, said it felt to only be about 100 degrees, but topped it off with more water. the gauge dropped right back down to being almost as cold as when you first drive it, but after about 2 miles it was right back up near the red line.I pulled over again there was steam coming off the engine. I stuck my finger in the water it felt warm, but nowhere near hot. I couldn't get it cool enough to finish driving to work. Does this sound like the water pump?If so, how long should this take a decent mechanic to replace?If not, what else could it be?
if it,s circulating then the pump is doing its job. sounds more like the radiator or the thermostat is sticking part of the time. flush out the whole cooling system and change the thermostat. also make sure the fan is working proper.
Q:Why is water pumping cool water is normal, but when pumping hot water pressure and flow are very small?
You look at what you pump that is, there are manuals to see how much the media can not exceed the degree,
Q:When the pump is connected in parallel, will the head and flow change?
Parallel pump should lift the same head, the flow is the sum of the flow of a single pump.
Q:What is the easiest way to remove a water pump?
drain radiator. remove both 21mm motor mount bolts from subframe (front and rear). drain radiator. remove overflow/washer bottle. remove drive belt. remove 8mm bolt that hold lower watertube to front cover. remove lower water tube from water pump. remove heater hoses from water pump. slightly lift engine with floor jack. remove water pump pully. remove water pump. if you still cant get it you will need to remove the 4 studs that go through the water pump. now its just that easy to do
Q:A circular swimming pool has a diameter of 12 meters. The sides are 3 meters high and the depth of the water is 2.5 meters. How much work is required to pump all of the water over the side?
the quantity of the water interior the trough is, V(h) the place h is the peak of the water interior the trough. The one million/2 perspective on the backside of the trough is B tan B = h /(w/2) the place w is the area around the trough tan B = 4 /(12/2) = 4/6 = 2/3 2/3 = h /(w/2) (w/2) 2/3 = h w = 3 h the component to the bypass-component to the trough A, is then A = h w /2 = h(3h)/2 = 3/2 h^2 the quantity is then V(h) = A * L = (3/2 h^2) 12 = 18 h^2 dV/dt = 36 h dh/dt dh/dt = dV/dt /(36 h) dV/dt = 9 ft^3/min dh/dt = 9 /(36 * 12) = one million/forty 8 ft /min
Q:Got pump ready and will not pump water. Have tried all things suggested to prime but will not pump water
all i can think of is it may not want to lift water real high if the intake is way lower than the pump, and be sure the hose is secure and its not sucking air .. if the thing has a plug on top remove it and fill it with water first ..
Q:my 2003 dodge durango broke down 6 weeks ago. the mechanic put it on the diagnostic machine, and it said i needed a fuel pump and a water pump. well i got the fuel pump changed and he told me if i kept water in the car it could hold out for a little while until i get the water pump fixed. so i kept water in it it's been 3 weeks. saturday night all of a sudden i watched the temperature gauge jump to HOT! I pulled over and it was smoking like hell. i'm lucky a friend of mine drove by at that instant and went to his house and got me antifreeze and water and put it in the car. so it was fine sunday. then last nightafter i got home it was smoking again. i let it cool down and then filled it up with water. this morning i took my daughter to school and then drove to my other daughter's daycare and it was smoking like crazy and there was antifreeze and water all over the ground where i parked. so i left it at the daycare and got a ride to work. should i fix the water pump? or is
You absolutely have a enormous coolant leak somewhere. Could be some thing involving the cooling method. Do no longer force this vehicle or you'll spoil your engine for would probably be constant with a couple of bucks, if this can be a dangerous hose or some thing of the kind. Sounds such as you must be in a position to uncover the leak and not using a pressur experiment, seeing the way it runs low so speedily, however in any occasion, don't force this car and feature a technician as quickly as viable.
Q:leaking coolant after the car engine has stoppped
if your water pump is leaking fluid -its bad period- it should never leak unless installed incorrectly--signs for bad pump are-noise-grab fan blade wiggle if shaft moves-bad pump-open cap on radiator-no water moving-bad pump-bad pump--

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