Industrial Centrifugal AH Series Slurry Pump

Industrial Centrifugal AH Series Slurry Pump System 1

Industrial Centrifugal AH Series Slurry Pump

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 set

Supply Capability:: 1000 set/month

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Specifications

Industrial centrifugal ah slurry pump
Abrasion & corrosion resistant
Lined metal or rubber
OEM

Industrial centrifugal ah slurry pump

Feature:

1) Cantilevered, horizontal, centrifugal,single stage slurry pump
2) Widely application: the slurry pumps are designed for handling abrasive, high density slurries in the metallurgical, mining, coal, power, building material and other industrial departments.
3) Long bearing life: The bearing assembly is with large diameter shaft and short overhang.
4) Wear resistant and anti-abrasion wet parts: The wet parts can be made of hard metal (24-28% Chrome alloy)or pressure molded rubber.They are completely interchangeable with each other.More materials are also available.
5) Easily replaceable liners: Liners are bolted to the casing.
6) Simple maintenance throat-bush: the mating face of the throat bush is tapered, so the wear is reduced and removal is simple.
7) Easy adjustment of impeller: An impeller adjustment mechanism is provided below the bearing housing.
8) High efficiency and high head design are also available.
9) Centrifugal seal,mechanical seal and packing seal are available.
10) Welcome OEM
11)ISO 9001-2008

High chrome anti-abrasive slurry pump& Rubber anti-wear centrifugal pump

Application:

-Mining and mineral process

-Iron ore processing plant

-Sump sewage transfer

-Submersible liquid

-Coal washing plant

-Gold mining company

-Dredging process

-Gravel & sand process

-Trash handle

-Tailing handle

-Mud pump

Q: Water pump part is stainless steel, which part is it?: The part of the pump head, that is, the part of the flow

Q: Car is ford taurus 98.The car had some problems including overheating as thermostat was bad so was was not working. i drove it 25 miles to garage (i had to stop once because too hot to let it cool), i brought it to Ford who replaced the thermostat. Now they tell me some bits of thermostat broke and they need to replace the waterpump and want $620 for it. The other repair were also extremely expensive and i want to bring it to another garage 1.3 miles away on flat road.-1- is it safe to drive 1.3 mile with no water pump or should iget it towed?-2- should i have to pay for the water pump or is it ford's fault if they did not remove the bits of broken thermostat before reconnecting new thermostat to hose ? Can i prove that the pump was working when i came in if i drove 25 miles with it ?Thanks for your help.: alright- you have a lot of things going on here. you have an older model vehicle with what sounds like a couple of issues. your best bet is to have the vehicle towed. letting your vehicle overheat is it not a good thing - can ruin your engine. Best not to risk it even tho 1.3 miles is nothing really. if you feel the shop is at fault. And it's a ford retailer - contact the fort corporate offices and file a complaint and ask for good will for the repair and see what happens. Couldn't hurt to ask. Take care and good luck.

Q: My family has a vacation home on the bay side of a small island off the coast of Texas. The house has a water well and uses an electric pump housed in a pump house underneath the structure, which is up on stilts. The house is infrequently used and with the seaside conditions the pump has corroded and will not start automatically. What do I need to do to clean it up so it will function? I do not believe that the motor is damaged.: the problem with the pump not running will be the motor only.....most likely the motor rotor has rusted to the winding core of the motor ....soak it down with wd40 on the inside ...should be vent holes to spray wd40 in...try to find some way to turn rotor ....on some pumps there is a screwdriver slot on the end of the motor...if it still wont run take it to shop

Q: Here is the deal...*Van over heats*Blows Cold quot;heatquot;*Added coolant and water (nothing happened)*Started van, felt the hoses (no h2o flowing thru)I really think my water pump is out, but I am not sure. Does this sound like my water pump. If so, I plan on changing it myself, how do i find step by step instructions to do so.... I have never done it before, but I cant afford to take it to a mechanic! Thanks for your help!: If okorder look up the part there is a tab for instructions. otherwise when you pick up your pump by a repair manual they run about $17. Oh I live in Wisconsin if a case of beer works lol. Run the car with the radiator cap off and put your finger in the water. If water doesn't change temp it's your pump. if it gets alot warmer and overheats it's thermostat.

Q: I am selling a 96 eclipse that needs a new water pump. I am willing to sell it for an offer as is, but I would like to fix it and sell it for more, so it is as if I am getting paid for the labor.My question is, is it possible at all to change out a water pump on a 96 eclipse without pulling the engine out? Like through the passenger wheel well access panel or anything?: It is possible, I wouldn't even consider pulling the engine out. The water pump is usually connected to the timing belt, so you'd have to worry about timing it all up after pulling the belt off to replace it. However, being that your eclipse is an inline 4 cylinder, it shouldn't be hard at all to time.

Q: I have a new water pump with its new gasket to be installed tomorrow. Do I still need to apply a gasket sealer (blue RTV silicone) on the gasket itself? If I do, do I need to apply it on both sides of the gasket? Thank you.: It doesn't hurt. You just need it on one side. It is best to put it on the water pump and let it dry a bit then put the gasket on. The silicone will hold the gasket in place so you can put the water pump on a little easier.

Q: I think its the water pump, I fill the coolant with water everyday and it is empty once I make it to my destination.: I know this isn't exactly what you asked but if you have the v6 engine changing the water pump on this car is a very easy job. There is a video on youtube that shows you exactly how to do it, just search water pump gm 3.1. Just be sure to get all of the old gasket off and use rtv on the new gasket. You could probably change it yourself for less than $50 and 1 hour if you can do basic car maintenance.

Q: Fire hydrant and fire pump adapter difference: The most simple argument is outside fire hydrant water pump adapter, irrigation from.More outdoor fire hydrant, both sides of the road can be seen at any time, that is, red like a villain, there is a hat on the head. Pump adapter is not that hat.

Q: how to change a water pump on a 99 ford tauras?: Removal Disconnect battery ground cable . Drain engine cooling system. Loosen four water pump pulley retaining bolts while drive belts are still tight. Remove drive belt . Remove the drive belt tensioner. Disconnect and remove heater water hose from water pump. Remove engine control sensor wiring from locating stud bolt. Remove 11 water pump to engine retaining bolts. Lift water pump and water pump pulley up and out of vehicle. Installation CAUTION: Use care when scraping as aluminum gouges easily which may form leak paths. NOTE: Lightly oil all bolt and stud bolt threads with Motor Oil before installation except those specifying special sealant. Clean gasket surfaces on water pump and engine front cover. Position a new water pump housing gasket on water pump sealing surface using Gasket and Trim Adhesive or equivalent to hold the water pump housing gasket in place. NOTE: Apply Pipe Sealant with Teflon ? to bolt No. 3 (as illustrated) prior to installation. With water pump pulley loosely positioned on water pump hub, align water pump to engine front cover and install retaining bolts. Tighten retaining bolts as follows: No. 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9 and 10 to 20-30 Nm (15 -22 lb-ft). No. 11, 12, 13, 14 and 15 to 8-12 Nm (71-106 lb-in). Install engine control sensor wiring to locating stud bolt (FFV only). Hand-tighten water pump pulley retaining bolts. Install drive belt tensioner . Install the drive belt Tighten water pump pulley retaining bolts to 20-30 Nm (15-22 lb-ft). Install heater water hose . Clamp securely. Fill and bleed engine cooling system. Connect battery ground cable . Start engine and check for coolant and oil leaks.

Q: All of a sudden I have no water coming to the house/anywhere from the pump/well outside. It's a newer well, good water quantity (Florida...no dry up problems), no sand in water. I'm new to this house and don't know much about the pump stuff. Is there something I should look at or switch on/off. The breaker is ok. Help, I need a shower! :) Oh, there were about 15 ants around some box, but it didn't look connected to the pump...it's a box to the pool filter thing.: If you are sure you have power to the unit, go to the pressure tank. There should be a pressure control switch with wires going in and out. It may have a reset switch that you can try to reset. You usually have to hold the switch for several seconds for the water pressure to build up past 20 pounds before you release the switch. You can tell if this is working by hearing water flow thru your pipes and/or watching the pressure gauge on the unit.

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