• Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality System 1
  • Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality System 2
  • Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality System 3
  • Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality System 4
  • Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality System 5
  • Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality System 6
Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality

Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Name:
Electric high quality stainless steel centrifugal pump
Pressure:
High Pressure
Power:
Electric
Material:
Stainless steel

Company Introduction

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

The company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

The company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.

 

 

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Manufacturing process:   

1.Stamping of lamination

2.Rotor die-casting

3.Winding and inserting – both manual and semi-automatically

4.Vacuum varnishing

5.Machining shaft, housing, end shields, etc…

6.Rotor balancing

7.Painting – both wet paint and powder coating

8.Motor assembly

9.Packing

10.Inspecting spare parts every processing

11.100% test after each process and final test before packing

 

Features
1. Hydraulic design with wide flow-path non-clogged structure ,allowed fibres(3 times
length of inlet diameter),particles(30% size of inlet diameter )
2. Excellent design,high efficiency and energy saving .
3. Double mechnical seals in series,made of hard alloy corrosive proof silicon
carbide,which is durable and .wearable ,that enable pump safely operation for more
than 8000 hours continous.
4. Compact structure, small volume, easy moved and conveniently mounted , no need build
pump house, greatly reduct the cost.

 

pump superiority

High efficiency

Reasonable design

Reliable operation

Long in service time

Easy maintenance

Low running cost

 

Product specification

 


 

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 Pictures show

 

Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality

 

Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality

 

 

 

 

Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality

 

 

Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump Electric High Quality

 

 Transportation

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Q: i have a 1993 chevy cavalier z24 3.1 what all do i need to do to get the water pump off and replace it
I believe if you are looking at the motor the water pump will be to your left on top of the motor and to the front. Drain the radiator. There is a big smooth pulley that turns the water pump loosen the 4 10mm bolts, remove the belt the remove the bolts. Under the pulley there will be 5 or 6 8mm bolts remove those, make sure a drain pan is under the pump because there will be some residual coolant in the motor. Scrape the old gasket off of the engine block then reverse the procedures to install the new pump. Make sure you torque the pump to the proper specs so that the pump housing does not distort. You can pick up a Chiltons manual for that car a local parts store that can walk you through this in greater detail with pictures. Good Luck
Q: What is the difference between a High Flow Water Pump, Heavy Duty Water Pump or and Electrical Water Pump for a street rod? I have a 77 Camaro with around 410hp with the factory A/C. The Camaro is stock as body, frame and interior. I want to enjoy the car vs racing it. I would like to go on trips to visit family out of town which is around 300 miles and be able to drive the car with out having over heating problems.
the key to keeping a car cool isn't the size of rad but water flow and air flow.elec.are for race cars and cubic dollar cars stock works for me or aftermarket high flow.and good fan that pushes allot of air.
Q: Why my Water Pump is leaking again? It was replace 2 month ago brand new water pump?
was gasket replaced? if we are sure pump seal is failing..( check underneath at leak hole for drips e.g. tissue and mirror) then it can be swapped for a replacement and send back unit as unsuitable for purpose. are we running a hot engine? do we have an air lock? where air locks occur out temp gauge can show cooler than normal but engine in fact over heating. decent garage can sort.
Q: Can I get a time estimate to replace a water pump on a 1983 Nissan Sentra? I'm trying to calculate the cost of the repair separate from the part. Thanks.Also, time to replace a battery and the end on one of the attachments to the post.
Consult the Mitchells Manual
Q: I have a 1990 js550 that i picked up for a project. When in the water it overheats and minimal water comes out the tell tail. When on the tap it runs fine no overheating, so i disconnected the hose from the back of the ski where it sucks the water in and ran a garden hose directly to it. And the ski ran fine.I also cleaned all the tubes out with air.I am not getting enough water flow through the ski when it is in the water. Is there a water pump inside the motor?There is definitely no blockages, there is just no enough pressure to keep it cool.Thanks
Hey Sam, It's Jeff again. I used to own a stand-up ski a while back, and I had the same problem. The water to the motor comes from the jet pump, the more RPM, the more pressure, There should be enough pressure to keep the motor cool at low RPM, but if not then there are a couple of things to check. Since you already eliminated a blockage in the motor buy disconnecting the pickup, first check the actual pickup for a restriction from the entrance to the connection you took the hose off at. If that's OK, then the clearance in the jet pump itself could be excessive. A ski with a lot of hours in sandy water can have pump wear that isn't really noticeable when cruising, you might notice it a little under heavy acceleration when leaving the no wake zone. Under idle there just isn't enough pressure to cool the motor. You can have it fixed for not to much, a little hard to do yourself. To save a planned day on the lake you can always get a cheep inline electric water pump. My last thought though, since your other question was about a slow cranking starter, I'd pull the plugs and spin it over to see if it spits water out the cylinders. It doesn't hurt just to eliminate a blown head gasket. As a side note, I like them a lot better then the big sit-down style, they're much more free then the bigger ones. It's like the difference between a motorcycle and a car. If you want to do the stuff the bigger ones do, buy a boat.
Q: Would I notice a difference in driving if I changed my timing belt and water pump?
Question is vague. Timing belt makes sure your valves are open or closed when your pistons are up or down. If your timing is off because your belt jumped you may have anything from a slight miss, higher temps, to bent valves and need a new motor. (you would know) Water pump is probably driven by your timing belt, and keeps coolant circulating through your engine block to keep your motor cool. A bad water-pump may leak, or be so worn that it no longer pumps enough coolant to keep the motor cool. Unless your vehicle is overheating, or you are leaking coolant you probably do not need to replace the water pump. The exception is that if it is a long and expensive job to replace and you are already torn down to your water pump, then people usually opt to get it done to save themselves money down the road. Timing belts in interference engines (motors where the valves and pistons occupy the same space at different times) should be changed as recommended by the manufacturer. If you fail to do this and one breaks or jumps enough you will be spending thousands. Hope this helps.
Q: My water pump is broken and so far we can't get the fan off so we need instructions.
This Site Might Help You. RE: How do you remove the water pump from a Chevy S10 Pickup? My water pump is broken and so far we can't get the fan off so we need instructions.
Q: I have a leak and all the hoses are fine but I am not sure were the water pump is also has anyone had this repaired and what did it cost (part plus labor) in general is it hard to get to? Thanks in advance
The water pump is in the front of your motor where your v-belt or serpentine belt is. the cost should be minimal like 150- 18o for the part plus a couple hours labor. Since your in that area it is a good time to replace your timing belt because to do that you''d just have to pay that labor again and a timing belt is cheap. Good luck BS
Q: 2000 Jetta GLX VR6Problems:- AC is no longer working- The Reader said quot;STOP!quot;CHECK COOLANTI pulled over and checked the Coolant and it was full- The Car will overheat to about 260 whenever I am sitting with the Engine Running- When I start the car its on Zero Degrees and then Slowly makes it way to 190 degrees which is in the middle quot;Normalquot;- Oil Seems to be fine---- What does this sound like to you??--- Also, The VW Dealer said I needed to be without my Car for Two days so I will drop it off Friday Night and leave it until Wednesday. Do you think it will last until Friday driving 60miles a day??-- If it is the Water Pump... How much do you *think* I am looking at paying? I am taking it to the VW Dealer b/c I have a Recall they need to fix too.
This does not sound good. If it is the water pump, there is a very good chance that you will severely damage the heads and/or block by continuing to drive it. I would not drive it at all, unless you want to risk the expense of a re-built engine (more than $5000 plus installation). If it is the water pump, and not covered under warranty (and I would really get on them about that) less than $1000.
Q: 94 f150,302 engine. the water pump comes with 2 gaskets. one behind a metal plate on the pump and another for mounting it to the motor. my question is do you have to use sealant of any kind on both gaskets or can you just bolt it on?
Do not seal these gaskets with anything extra!

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