• Electric Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 1
  • Electric Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 2
  • Electric Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 3
  • Electric Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 4
  • Electric Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump System 5
Electric Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

Electric Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Name:
Electric stainless steel centrifugal pump
Pressure:
High pressure
Material:
stainless steel
Standard or Nonstandard:
Standard
Fuel:
Electric

Company Introduction

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

The company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

The company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.

 

 

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Product specification

 


 

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Application
Mainly apply to delivery sewage water ,waster water and rain water contains solids and
fibres:
*municipal project
*building construction
*residential area
*industrial sewage treatment
*eviroment protect
*mining


Features
1. Hydraulic design with wide flow-path non-clogged structure ,allowed fibres(3 times
length of inlet diameter),particles(30% size of inlet diameter )
2. Excellent design,high efficiency and energy saving .
3. Double mechnical seals in series,made of hard alloy corrosive proof silicon
carbide,which is durable and .wearable ,that enable pump safely operation for more
than 8000 hours continous.
4. Compact structure, small volume, easy moved and conveniently mounted , no need build
pump house, greatly reduct the cost.

 

 

 Pictures show

 

Electric Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

 

Electric Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

 

 

 

 

Electric Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

 

 

Electric Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump

 

 Transportation

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Q: My boyfriend told me that my car needs a new water pump. He said this because when you start the car, it sounds like trickling water is coming from somewhere in the engine bay. The car overheated once before and he put coolant in it, ever since then, it hasn't overheated. But last week he told me that I shouldn't drive it at all because the pump is about to go. I went out today and started it to see if I can hear the quot;grindingnoise that I read about online and all I hear was the trickling sound. It's rainy outside so I can't tell if the pump is leaking water from the quot;weepquot;. Is it the water pump? I want to make a two mile round trip to go pick up sushi and the place is a mile there and a mile back. Will I seize my engine or get stranded if I make this tiny trip? Is it my water pump?
Nicky, There are usually only two reasons to change a water pump and it's easy to check both of them. #1. With the car on ramps or jack-stands crawl underneath and look at the water-pump weep hole on the bottom of the input shaft casting. If coolant is leaking out the hole the pump needs replacing. Coolant will leave a perfect track from the weep hole the same color as the antifreeze. #2. Remove the serpentine belt and spin the water-pump by hand. If it spins with no noise or a lumpy bearing feeling in your fingers the water-pump is fine! While the belt is off, spin all the accessory pulleys to hear and feel if there are any bad bearings.
Q: From the days of the laying of pipe line and trouble is far away, two or more people share the idea of a water pump, controlled by the electromagnetic valve, do not know whether it is feasible, attention should be paid to each of the power may be different phase, and it is the automatic control, automatic switching request all big brother big sister what the solution of power. At the same time, the electromagnetic valve is closed to others. Turn on your own solenoid valve StopThe idea is that each pumping with its own power, so you don't have to worry about sharing electricity.
The electromagnetic valve is estimated to be expensive to death ~!You set up a high water tank in the middle of the user. The pump is pumped to the water tankIn each according to the water meter, then according to water allocation total cost ~ ~ ~!
Q: my nissan 1993 maxima SEthe AC is not cold at all this year it ran perfect the year beforecan the water pump pressure really affect the AC?how much should a new water pump cost for my car?
The water cooling system for the engine (radiator, water pump, hoses, etc.) is completely separate from the air conditioning system. The water pump moves water from the radiator (where the water is cooled off) to the engine where the water travels through tubes in the block, picking up heat (cooling the block) and then returns to the radiator. A failing water pump would not cause burning antifreeze. It would cause overheating by not moving the water, or not moving it fast enough. The smell of antifreeze in the exhaust (a sweet smell) usually makes me think of a failed head gasket or a cracked block. The water is somehow getting into the combustion chambers from the tubes in the block. If the engine has been overheated it is not unusual for the head gasket to blow or for the block to be damaged. Take your car to a reputable mechanic - not a buddy who works on his own car in the back yard. Ask friends and family who they go to and what they have experienced. There are good, honest mechanics out there. Find one and have him check out the car. Pay him for his training and experience. It will be cheaper in the long run than going to the cheaper guy working in his driveway.
Q: when replacing the Water pump on an Isuzu rodeo while getting a new gasket does it require gasket sealant for this type of vehicle?
it depends mainly on the gaskets you are using whether or not they are paper type gaskets or rubber type gaskets or cork type some cars have only sealant and no gaskets most rubber gaskets don't need sealant some install it anyway for extra protection but to much sealant it could clog your cooling system if they are paper type gaskets a little sealant is added protection some mechanics put sealant on the gasket simply to hold it in place during the install some gaskets require sealant and a specific one at that there are many different types of sealant keep in mind if your gasket manufacture requires sealants to install its would be listed on the box it arrives in for the pre installation guides make sure you get the one they say also all sealant that dry some are wet sealants and never dry, keep in mine that if the sealant requires dry time after install you follow those guide lines otherwise it will leak keep in mind also that the water pump housing bolts have a specific install and tightening and torque down for that type of gaskets like 15 foot pounds on the bolts for cork type gaskets if you crank the bolts down to tight its going to split the gaskets and your back to square one replacing it again
Q: Just touch this area, a lot of places do not understandFor example, I have a water pump, for 11kw, choose circuit breaker, then what model should be chosen more appropriate, it is best to recommend a Schneider, universal DW recommend oneCan explain in detail, better, I checked online selection manual, there are many places that feel fuzzyIn addition, 37KW, 22KW, 1.5KW each choose what type?Hope predecessors give advice
Schneider circuit breaker is not selected, I do not know how much current to drive the 11kw pump, and there is no other load?
Q: For the past couple days my car has been over heating quickly and there ha been some leaking underneath my car. well I went to start my car today to run to the store and the heating gauge was going up and down from overheating to perfectly fine within seconds...I popped the hood and there was antifreeze spraying on the engine. So my friend that I called said that meant there was a leak in my water pump. The autoshop in town is busy with over cars all day, I already called, and there isn't another shop within 15 miles. I work in 3 hours, and the drive is 30 minutes away. I have no other way to get to work, is it safe to drive my car or should I call in and let my manager know I can't make it? I have been working there almost 2 months and have never been late or called in.
for someone that has spare hose laying around, it could have been repaired in less than 15 minutes with a piece of hose with an inside diameter the same size as the outside diameter of the original pump hose. 2 hose clamps and your good to go. fill her up and drive to work then get a new hose and replace it yourself or get it to a shop. This answer is more for anyone visiting this question now rather than the original poster.
Q: How tight to a tighten down the bolts on a '86 volvo 240 water pump. The manual I bought doesn't say. The torque won't help me cause I don't have a torque wrench, so just general discription would help a lot. (I stripped the threads on a stud last time)
the pump is held on with 6mm x 100 thread pitch nuts and bolts. the best tool to use will be a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and short extension with a 10 mm deep socket [6 point] these bolts are 12-15 ft bs. of torque if you snug bolts down evenly and use only moderate pressure as a final tighten you should be alright. after srarting all bolts let pump relax so the top seal is not crushed
Q: I have a Stamas boat that I am in the middle of restoring. It has 2 chevy 350's, with borg warner (sp) tranny's, and v-drives. Anyway, it has standard water pumps to cool the engines, and it had 2 Sherwood pumps to circulate the water to cool the tranny's, and v-drives. First, I am using the boat in Lake Michigan only, the water is very cool year round since it is such a big body of fresh water. I was wondering if there was any recommendation on possibly using 2 electric pumps to circulate the water? If so, what would a good unit be? Second, the transmission coolers were brass, with a honey comb in the center for the ATS fluid to run through, and the water would run on the outside to cool the fluid. Is this a more effective way to cool the fluid than with those expensive brass fitting? Just checking before I spend a few hundred on them to see if a better way to cool my engine and tranny's, in all honestly though, I am more worried about effectiveness than cost.
Why okorder /
Q: Every time i turn off the engine i hear like liquid noises behind the dash board in the drivers side. My fan isnt working properly but i just took a trip...4 hours away.. on the highway the temperature would be fine but on regular streets my temperature goes high pretty fast..i have been putting anti freeze pretty often lately because it goes low but there is no signs of a leak anywhere. Could it just be that my fan isnt working properly or is it because the water pump is going bad? or both? I have a 93 Toyota celica
Not it's because you have a cracked cylinder head. Does the exhaust spew out a lot of white smoke? Edit: Having a blown head gasket does not explain the missing coolant. If you had a misfire or the engine was struggling a little then yes the head gasket would explain that. If you've never seen white smoke from the exhaust or under the hood, then I would say it is because the fan is not working properly. The gurgling that you hear is the boiling water going from the radiator to the reservoir tank. It is probably overfilling the reservoir tank and evaporating as well.
Q: I've never had overheating problems before, (although the heating itself never worked great) but today the gauge suddenly spiked while driving at about 50mph. I pulled over and steam was coming off the engine and the cooland tank was bubbling. The coolant was low, but not empty. I put some water in the coolant tank, let the engine cool and drove to a gas station where I got some coolant which I mixed with the water in the coolant tank. That didn't seem to help any. Even after letting the engine cool completely, it spikes after less than five minutes of driving. The radiator and both top and bottom hoses are equally hot. When I tried to start the engine with the radiator cap off, cooland shoots up out the top. The fans are working propely and there is no debris on the front of the radiator. So I'm sort of at a loss. Also, I've had some trouble starting since the problem.
that its having trouble starting isnt a good sign suggests the gasket or head are done for as for the original issue could be the thermostat, water pump, blockage of some other sort anyway - if its a cheap car time to search out a replacement if its worth some bucks best visit a mechanic

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