• Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure System 1
  • Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure System 2
  • Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure System 3
  • Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure System 4
  • Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure System 5
  • Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure System 6
Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure

Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 set
Supply Capability:
1000 set/month

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Specification

Name:
Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure
Material:
Stainless Steel
Standard or Nonstandard::
Standard
Power:
Electric
Pressure:
High pressure

Company Introduction

My company has more than 40 years history, is the China general machinery pump industry association member units.

The company has organized product research and development team, experienced high, intermediate technical staff.Complete production and processing, inspection, testing (pump performance test platform), and other equipment, to ensure that product quality is stable and reliable.Over the department, provincial, municipal and industry product quality supervision and inspection (smoke), only one is qualified to go through.Timely quality perfect after-sales service in place, favored by the majority of new and old customers rely on and praise.

The company has successfully passed the national industrial products production license, ISO9001 quality system review replacement work.Relevant product standards (enterprise), metrology, standardization management system, etc., have been acceptance by the superior department in charge of the inspection.Related to product development, production management, sales and after-sales service, are performed according to the system management standard.

 

 

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Product specification

 


 

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Application
Mainly apply to delivery sewage water ,waster water and rain water contains solids and
fibres:
*municipal project
*building construction
*residential area
*industrial sewage treatment
*eviroment protect
*mining


Features
1. Hydraulic design with wide flow-path non-clogged structure ,allowed fibres(3 times
length of inlet diameter),particles(30% size of inlet diameter )
2. Excellent design,high efficiency and energy saving .
3. Double mechnical seals in series,made of hard alloy corrosive proof silicon
carbide,which is durable and .wearable ,that enable pump safely operation for more
than 8000 hours continous.
4. Compact structure, small volume, easy moved and conveniently mounted , no need build
pump house, greatly reduct the cost.

 

pump superiority

High efficiency

Reasonable design

Reliable operation

Long in service time

Easy maintenance

Low running cost

 

 Pictures show

 

Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure

 

Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure

 

 

 

 

Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure

 

 

Stainless Steel Centrifugal Pump High Pressure

 

 Transportation

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FAQ                                                

1.Q: What is your payment term?

A: 30% T/T in advance, 70% when receiving B/L copy. Or irrevocable L/C.

 

2.Q: What is your lead time?

A: Within 20-25 days after receiving deposit or original L/C.   

 

3.Q: Do you offer OEM service?

A: Yes. We manufacturer can custom designed for any specific application.

 

 

 

Q: My 2005 Lexus IS300 is close to 90K miles and I believe the timing belt/water pump should be replaced. I have priced this with several dealers and mechanics and at this time I can't afford close to $1000 to have this done. However, I see there are kits that can be purchased for about $400.Can a DIY'er with above average mechanical experience replace the belt nd pump relatively easily?
The fact that you've posed that question here is a pretty fair indicator that you will NOT have an easy time trying to do this work. And actually $1k is not a bad price for this type of repair. If you make a mistake while performing this work yourself the consequences could be very, very severe, i.e., completely blowing your engine. If I were you, I'd rely on public transportation until I could save the requisite $1k to have a shop do the repair.
Q: they say a water pump going bad is supposed to weep out of that hole....Yet I see that a new water pump kit has two gaskettes.some o rings....is it likely that it can leak from these sources and still not come out the weep hole?They talk about berring that could go bad or seals gone bad...does this occure in the area that gets inserted into the engine( the turbine portion of the pump)if you had to guess..where is the most likely area for a water pump to fail...if seems like I have wetness off to the left( back toward the firewall) and less off to the right( front of the car)..more off the left..it is very subtile off the right.I don't see anything coming out of the weep hole..BUT the weephole is directly on top( dead center)and back towards the engine in this model. I have the car jacked up on the passengers side/next to the wheel wellso the fluid is most likely to flow backwards toward the drivers side.
Yes it's possible one of the gaskets is bad,but if you're going thru the work of replacing the gasket you may as well replace the water pump,unless it's a new unit already
Q: Recently my car overheated on my way to work, and so I decided to give it some much needed TLC.I have replaced all in the last week:Spark PlugsDistributor Cap + RotorTiming BeltRelated to the cooling system:Water PumpThermostatAnd the heater still blows hot air so I believe the heater core is fine. Unfortunately even after a couple of radiator flushes the car continues to overheat. I'm considering replacing the radiator because I think it might have too much debris inside to flow properly.I used ZEREX Radiator Super Cleaner but was only able to acheive an hour and a half of driving before my car would not be able to drive anymore. (Supposed to be 3 hours, car temperature began to escalate far beyond what I'm confortable with) I also used ZEREX Radiator Super Flush to no avail.Any suggestions?Car info:Toyota Camry DX 19913S-FE Engine 2.0L I4 1998cc244,500 miles
Cooling systems are simple. There are only a few things you need to know to work a cooling system. 1 – Cooling systems consist of only a few parts. Thermostat, radiator, fan, and water pump. 2 – is it visually leaking? if yes fix leak. 3 – It is never the thermostat but it is a couple bucks so change it. 4 – is the water pump pumping. This is usually not the issue and the last thing to replace. Not to mention it is the most difficult to get to so do it last. 5 – is the fan working? 6 – Usually it is the radiator itself. The radiator is pressurized and if there is a pin hole leak your car will slowly overheat. It usually takes an hour or so of driving. Also many people like stop leak and use it as a solution when it is really a band aid. Many times people will find that they have reduced water flow because the previous owner used stop leak in the radiator. Take the radiator out and take it to a radiator shop. Have them pressure test it and inspect it. Your problem is likely in the radiator.
Q: And if it needs to be replaced, does that spell trouble for a car? I see a car I might like to buy, but the ad says that the water pump needs to be replaced. Someone please enlighten me. Thanks.
did u get a mechanic to do it? or do it yourself? if you had a mechanic do it, ask them to fix it if you had no problems prior. Could be thermostat, could be you dont have enough coolant in radiator or even proper coolant to water ratio. All i know is you need to bleed out the radiator to remove all air after water pump is taken off and put back on, because that can cause problems aswell. ok well you just updated it, so i am too, your mechanic sounds like a dumb ****, he should have bled air out of radiator, the fact he told you is weird, should have fixed it then and there. It is an important step of changing water pump. If there is air in it, your radiator and water pump wont be rotating the water properly. Tell him to fix it and say you did your research and you're not paying another cent!
Q: Dear friends, please let me know in most of the power plants recirculation line and balance leak off lines are provided for boiler feed water pumps and those lines are connected to Deaerator. Why?
The feed pumps for most power plants are multistage centrifugal pumps. They have a minimum flow requirement or the balancing forces of the various impellers are lost and the pump is damaged. A recirculation line permits a minimum flow to be maintained at all times. It goes back to the deaerator so the boiler feedwater is not lost. Note: many of these pumps have the recycle automated so it is only in operation at very low flow rates. The leak off from the balancing line is recycled for the same reason.
Q: A water pump that consume 2kW of electric power when operating is claimedto take in water from a lake and pump it to a pool whose free surface is 30 m above the free surface of the lake at a rate of 50 L/s. Determine if this claim is reasonable.You have to show the minimum power required is 14.7 kWand i can't get it.
A liter of water mas a mass of 1Kg. How much work must be done to raise 50 Kg of water through a height of 30 m? You can say: Work done (W) = potential energy gained (mgh), Or you can say that Work done is the weight force (mg) * the distance moved against the force (h) Either way, W = m * g * h where m is the mass; g is the acceleration due to gravity {9.8 m/s?}; h is the height W = 50 * 9.8 * 30 = 14700 J If you need to do that amount of work in one second, that's a rate of working of 14700 J/s A joule/second is a watt. Minimum power required = 14700 W = 14.7 kW
Q: When the pump is running with frequency conversion, the instantaneous power is greater than the power frequency operation, and the actual flow and lift are less than the power frequency. When running, the efficiency is very low. Why?
Pump power frequency operation, speed is rated. Frequency conversion actually adjusts the speed of the pump (the speed becomes smaller), and the flow of the pump moves parallel and downward. As for efficiency, it depends on the operating conditions of the pump. Does it deviate or run to the minimum efficiency position of the flow curve of the pump?.
Q: a picture of a water pump and its parts,picture of cross section of a water pump how water pump works
Here's okorder /
Q: What is the difference between a sewage pump and a clean water pump? Why can't sewage be pumped with clean water?
In short, the main difference between clean water pump and sewage pump: impeller and runner design, as well as other parts of the configuration are very different.1., in order to prevent clogging of sewage pump, the main design of large flow channel, so naturally lead to relatively low efficiency, so the head is generally not high. Clear water pump flow smaller, smaller clearance, the head is relatively high.2. in order to prevent the wound, water pump impeller design is more simple but not ring pump, equipped with tips, cloth and other debris can be crushed after the pump, and the impeller water pump is relatively complex, but the efficiency will be significantly higher than the former.3., in order to prevent wear and corrosion, sewage pumps generally use better wear resistance, corrosion resistance, mechanical seal and O ring as the seal of water pumps, and clean water pump without strict consideration.To sum up, we can get a very good understanding of why not water pump sewage problems -- characteristics of channel and the impeller and other key design, resulting in water pump for sewage situation is likely to occur, blocking, winding, wear and corrosion occurs, resulting in damage to pump or scrapped, so water pump can not be used sewage.
Q: Okay, the fan has the clutch unit on the front with the large nut attaching it to the water pump. Then 4 screws attach the pulley to the water pump as well. What's the best way to immobilize pulley/pump so I can get the fan blade clutch nut unscrewed? Can't hold onto the fan or clutch unit since it simply spins. Can't realy seem to hold onto the pulley either as it prefers to spin? Any suggested best ways?
First remember this tighten is loosen and loosen it tighten with the big nut on the fan clutch. And there is a tool you can buy (BMP design and Bavarian autosport have them) but I never bought one because I only could have used it once, and I try to keep my tool box as empty as I can. All this with the belt on..Get the biggest screwdriver you have and a heavy hammer. Now put the screwdriver on the tighten side one of the flat sides edge. Take hammer and give it a big wack. As long as the last guy put the fan clutch on right it should take no more than 2 tries to loosen it. Once its loose just spin it off by the fan blades and pull it out. I only once had to use a sawsall (only time I could have used the tool)on both the water pump and fan clutch to do a water pump job and after inspection I found some moron used lock tight. When you reinstall just spin it on and that's it no need to tighten.. I like to put antiseize on the bolt threads so I know the next time I have to remove the fan it will come off like buttahr...

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