Slurry Pump for Mining Process with High Quality

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Loading Port:: China main port

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

Min Order Qty:: 1 unit

Supply Capability:: 100 unit/month

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Quick Details

Place of Origin: Hebei, China (Mainland)
Model Number: AH
Condition: New
color: as request
material: high chromium A05
weight: 2-3 tons per pcs
inlet/outlet: 2" to 12"
assembly: electrical motor or diesel engine

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	standard export plywood case
Delivery Detail:	depends on the quantity.quick delivery and best service

Specifications

Complete model,
reliable manufacturer,
durable used,
do best custom-made service,
easy setting

slurry pump for Mining Process

LWA Type solids-handling centrifugal pump is designed for abrasive solids applications such as those found in aggregate, cement, lime slurries and many other common industrial and mining applications. Exclusive design features increase product versatility, improve pump reliability and lower energy consumption.

Markets

Cement & Aggregate
Industrial minerals
Mineral Processing
Waste Water

Applications

Cyclone and screen feed
Cement kiln feed and transfer applications
Thickener under/over flow
Tailings
Transfer applications
Loading/unloading applications

Capacity (m³/h))	Head (m)	Speed (r/min)	Inlet (mm)	Outlet (mm)
3.6-1209	5-99.4	350-3800	38-254	25-203

Q: i have the power max xp652 water pump, 2 inch inlet and outlet, 6.5 horsepower, and says it can reach 100 psi. now i bought the pump so i can use it for my mobile detailing business, the problem is im barely getting 40 psi out the end and its not very much water to wash a car with. Im using a two inch suction hose to get it in, then right after the outlet i reduced it down to 3/4 inch into a 50 ft. garden hose. this only got me 40 psi and the nozzle was basically just spitting it out, so i tried using 50 ft. of 1/4 inch pressure washer hose and it didnt change anything still 40 psi. so please if there is any way i can up the psi, please tell me any ideas are good. i dont know if its just because i reduced it down too quick or if my suction hose is too big. someone who is into hydraulics please help.: I don't know anything about the xp652 , but if this pump goes in a well you also need a pressure tank and then a preassure switch , the pump starts it you the get a tank , if your tank has a bladder it will probably be preset at 30 psi but thats not where you get your pressure the switch has two little screws one will set how hard she blasts ( thats where your pump comes in) the other one sets how low your pressure gets before the pump turns on again , But if the xp652 is an outside system , ( outside of your regular weter pumping system then , Never mind .

Q: i learned from wikipedia that the water pumps back to reactor where it is heated again and the cycle begins again. but then i saw this diagram: As you factor out it was once the double-punch of the earthquake and tsunami that caused the problems at Fukushima. The diesel mills have been enough to control the pumps to cool the reactor but then the tsunami got here and swamped them. Shutting down the reactor after an earthquake is typical defense system. The diesel turbines had been designed to be a backup in the occasion of an earthquake. They functioned quality even after the large quake. If the quake didn't occur, but instead the planet was once just hit with the aid of the tsunami, the other planets in unaffected areas of Japan would still be operating so this implies the engineers onsite might have jerryrigged anything in order that the pumps would be powered through the country wide vigor grid even though the diesel pumps were knocked out. No longer shutting the reactors down would have resulted in much more radiation being launched as a result of the damaged structures and containment units.

Q: My father in law has a 95 jeep grand cherokee with the v~8 engine, the water pump started leaking so we went to autozone and bought a brand new duralast one with new gaskets, I'm gonna be putting it in when the weather lets me since i have to do it out on the street in front of the house, i was just wondering if anyone on here had any tips for me since i have never done one, I'm not a mechanic but i work on all my own vehicles since i am too poor to take them to a shop, i know a lot more about cars than he does so he asked me to help, it didn't look to hard but i'm not quite sure what im getting myself into, any advice or tips about this job is greatly appreciated. And please don't post telling me to take it to a mechanic as this is not a option for us, i will get it done i just thought somebody could help make it go a lil smoother with some pointers... Thanks: make sure the when ya take the old one off that ya clean the surface real good where it bolts on. razor blade to take off any old gasket ect. some fine sandpaper to sand it down smooth for the new gasket helps to,just dont gouge it.use some of that red silicone in a tube,can get it at any auto parts, smear both sides of the gasket,the engine , and the water pump. let it cure out till its almost dry. bolt the new one on but when ya tightening it down do the bottom bolts first then the top bolts. add the antifreeze and check for leaks .good luck

Q: My 2000 Chevy Cavalier (2.4L) has been overheating pretty majorly (within a 10 minute drive!) when it's been super cold out, about 5F. I took it to the shop and they told me it was my water pump. Right after getting out of the shop, the problem went away for an entire week and the car's temperature has been at exactly what it's been for years - never past 195. It seems to be back now, though not as severe. It's about 20F now.Could the weather have to do with this??Why would the problem go away like that?I'm female and definitely do not seem educated walking into a shop so they can really tell me anything and I'll buy it. I just wanna see if the problem going away like that makes any sense, or if I should just wait out long trips until it warms up outside.It doesn't look like I'm losing coolant, though my low coolant light goes in and out.I have no idea. Thoughts?Thank you!!: When the water pump goes you usually see obvious signs of leakage and a grinding metallic sound coming from it as well. Plus they usually go pretty fast, within a day or 2 of symptoms presenting, and then coolant is often gushing out. The thermostat is the more likely culprit. The thermostats on the '00-'02 Cavs are pretty bad. I've replaced (2) of them in 6 years on my car. Take it to another shop and let them look at it, point out that you think it might be the thermostat or water pump but you're not sure, at least you will sound like you have a clue what the problem might be.

Q: We have a 92 cadillac deville, my husband can replace the water pump he justs need to know if you have to jack the motor a little. Please help before our car blows up!!: run down to advanced auto or auto zone buy a haynes auto manual they will give him step by step instructions

Q: I have a cabin cruiser and I recently took it out of storage and had it de winterized. Now everything seems to work except for the fresh water pump for the sink, shower and toilet. Does this type of pump need to be primed? If so how do you prime it? Thank you for the help.: most likely the pressure switch is stuck/corroded. this is a common problem with on demand type pumps.try tapping on the pressure switch to see if it will work.if the pump is installed properly,the motor should be at the top and the pump and switch will be at the bottom.i consider these pumps disposable. expect to replace it every couple of years.

Q: Why is the water pump usually used multi-stage pumps, while the circulating pump is usually a single-stage pump?: Pump selection is based on flow, lift, power to determine, the actual situation is different, the choice of pump specifications and models are different, the key to your needs to choose.

Q: Does the pump accessories have a shelf life?: No, they don't have a shelf life before and after the sale,Before selling, it is infinitely long, and there is no expiration date after the sale

Q: Motor has over 200k miles. Water pump took a dump. Gear is very wobbly! primary timing chain tensioner off the right bank hasn't any tension on chain at all! Crank turns but doesn't turn the chain. So motor is way out of time for sure now.Found small piece of aluminum and 2 -1/2pieces of appears to be a spring pin. Am I correct to assume these pieces are from the water pump? A new chain and water pump I can see doing on this old motor! But? Any suggestions on what to do next before I waste my money? What kind of compression reading can I get with all the plugs out and manually turning the crank? Short answers of scrap it not welcomed! I'll determine that after I'm satisfied it's truly bad! Thanks!: I also own a 2001 Intrepid and recently had a water pump go bad which also broke my timing chain. The pieces of aluminum you found are probably valves or valve springs from the head. Mine broke every vavle and spring on one head when my engine jumped time and a few more on the other head that is probably what your seeing. Also you don't want to check for compression by turning the crank manually. It is an expensive job to fix but the cars are great but I wouldn't spend too much on them because they only go for about $3000-3700 in great condition nowadays. Good Luck

Q: i was wondering how hard it would be to chancge a water pump in a 1997 chrysler sebring.: not real hard to change any cars water pump buy a new one have a look at what it looks like... look at motor see where it ..is remove whatever that is in way of it after getting it off ..you clean the old gasket off ...apply some blue Silicone put on new one and replace what you had to remove refill radiator check for leaks.. and might want to replace thermostat also if its been running hot while you there....should be able to do it in a few hours double check your job for leaks afterwards

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